first chemicals? ( Ilford PAN 400 )

[kuuan]

soon I will develop my first B&W films. Well, not really first, there had been some 30 years ago, but first 'again', and I wonder which chemicals I should get.

The first films I am goint to develop are Ilford PAN 400, see: http://www.pinhol.com.pl/s&a/artykuly/ilford/pan100400.pdf

there are so many different developpers mentioned on the fact sheet of the PAN 400..which one should get, is versatile that can be used for other films also?

someone said the PAN 400 was great in 'Rodinal @ 1-100' ( what does 1-100 mean? ) resp. with Xtol ( see: http://photo.net/black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/00CS3s )
Rodinal sounds good...easily available, rel. cheap and versatile?
How about Xtol?

Which chemicals should I get to start out with?

thank you for any hints,
Andreas

[Nesster]

You might consider keeping it simple, and just buying a set of Ilford (or plain vanilla Kodak) chemicals. Somethings like D-76 or Ilfosol or T-Max developer aren't sexy or arcane, just simple to use and very effective.

The stop and fix you might simply buy on cost - there's not that much difference and the stuff works out to be pretty cheap... I bought Ilford in bottles because it came in bottles. I mix a liter at a time of each, into soda bottles. The stop will turn color when it's used up, the fixer I make a mark on the bottle each time I use it.

[Seele]

Andreas,

Pan 400 is basically HP5 Plus, cut from the same rolls, but Pan 400 is cut from the edges, so Ilford considers it as a "lesser" film and charges accordingly. What applies to HP5 Plus also applies to Pan 400 too.

For my money, I tend not to use Rodinal with it. In fact I found Ilford LC29 a somewhat better match. LC29 was introduced as a matching developer for HP5 Plus, I found it to be less "gritty" than Rodinal, a large-format specialist friend also found that to be so. Start at 1:19 (one part of concentrate plus nineteen parts of water), and once you are familiar with the results you can try the other dilutions.

[marty]

Hi, Andreas. I agree in substance with Nesster and Seele for what is concerning chemicals. I can surely vouch for ID-11/D-76 which I used with satisfaction to soup HP5+. I used Rodinal and T-Max too but not with HP5+. I always made the stop bath with plain tap water. I use to fill the tank, to do a little agitation and then empty, for 3 times. Never had a problem (I use the fixer one shot). Rodinal is surely a cheap solution since it can be used at high dilution and the concentrate lasts almost forever even in opened bottles. It keeps to work even when it has turned totally brown.

Cheers, Marty.

[hexi]

Hello

As said above appears to be a HP5 clone for Eastern and Asian markets. Nevermind its a good film. I use Rodinal but Ilford products may be better ...


Be warned , cos i had the issue on my first roll : this film doesn't have DX coding, so set your film speed manually . You've been WARNED

[martinsmith99]

I used all Ilford products when I started off as I didn't know what was what. Ilfosol 3 is a fine-grain developer and reasonably sharp which I've used on FP4+.

I have some Rodinal now, but I don't think I'd use it on fast film. I may sample it on some HP5 and under-rate the film.

[F16SUNSHINE]

I use the T-max liquid now for most everything.
A batch can do many rolls. The main reason I buy it is it can be found locally. Very unusual for my location.
The indicator stop baths are great and really do indicate when to change them.
To conserve the fixer. Do wash your films with water after the stop bath.
I mix a 1 liter bottle of fixer and will use it for ten rolls before adding fixing time.
TMax takes the longest to fix. In my experience it uses up the fixer at a faster rate than the Iford or other Kodak films.

I also have become a devotee of pre-washing the Film in warm water before developing. It "softens" the emulation a bit, wets the film to reduce bubbles, warms the film, reel, and canister so your developer does not cool too quickly and lastly, helps wash away some of the dye on the substrate. All leading to more even development and longer chemistry life

[martinsmith99]

[Orio]

[hexi]

Here's the link Orio.

As for prewashing, i never use it. I use slow dev times, never more than 10 minutes, so the temperature variation is very low.

[F16SUNSHINE]

@ Martin
I find it has been beneficial with all films.
Some films such as Tmax have a very strong Dye layer.
Soaking will help remove this and allow more even development.

@ Orio
I have notes here for a couple others but, neither of agfa or efke... sorry.
Experiment with a single roll exposed at the same ISO. Cut the roll into thirds in the darkroom and put it on separate spools.
Now develop at different times to see what you like.

Here are some times I have been happy with using the Tmax Developer at 75F
Keep in mind you must adjust for your local water hardness. I have no experience as to how much this factor can effect times for development.

Tmax 100 rated 6.5min +2stops 9min +3stops 10.5min
Tmax 400 rated 6min +2stops 8min +3stops 9.5min
Delta 400rated5.5min +1stop 7min+2stops 8.5min +3stops 11min
Fomapan100 rated 6min +1stop 7min +2stops 9min

Rollei IR400 EI200 7min for high contrast clean grain

Yes, Rinse with warm water after stop bath and before fixing.

If you fix too short all is not lost if you act quickly.
You may soak the film in water for a few minutes the film and fix again to remove any unwanted dye-cast. Try and do so as quickly as you can.
When you inspect the film after washing it will be evident if you fixed properly or not.
Films with dye layers should be even not blotchy.

Be generous with Fix times. Too long will not hurt if reasonable. In other words err on the side of going too long

[kuuan]

can I without the stop bath, only wash thoroughly instead, and then fix?
- no idea if the stopper is very inexpensive, but I will only do that many rolls before hitting the road again, and wonder how best to economize on chemicals

[F16SUNSHINE]