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Rusty
Joined: 06 Nov 2008 Posts: 435 Location: Mosselbay, South Africa
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 3:29 pm Post subject: 20cm super yashinon 1:4.5 weird behaviour |
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Rusty wrote:
just received the lens and did some test shots
The first image looks ok
Then shot an abelia bush against a brighter background to check boheh and highlights wide open (on tripod)....all as expected ok
stopped down to f22 and did same shot and it flares
Shoud'nt stopping down inhibit flare and not the other way round ?
What is going on?
I repeated the test by taking an image of the corner of the roof of the house and the results were even worse at f22
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 5:13 pm Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
Lens hoods control flare by reducing stray light getting into the lens. I believe longer exposures (which you would get at smaller apertures) can increase it. I suppose it is possible that the aperture blades themselves might be acting as an additional reflective surface, increasing the internal reflections.
It would be interesting to shoot at different apertures while adjusting the ISO so that the exposure times remain constant. That would tell you whether the flare was a result of exposure times or was increased in some way by the iris itself. _________________ View or buy my photos at:
http://shutterstock.com/g/paulcowan |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7447 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 7:50 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
My Jupiter 21 does that too. Someone said it has to do with sensor flare so that it happens on a DSLR but not on a film cam, but I haven't tried. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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PaulC
Joined: 23 Dec 2008 Posts: 2318
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 8:11 pm Post subject: |
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PaulC wrote:
I doubt that it is the sensor. Sensor flare is described as creating little rainbow patterns or banding in high contrast areas, neither description fits this. |
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Rusty
Joined: 06 Nov 2008 Posts: 435 Location: Mosselbay, South Africa
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 8:16 pm Post subject: |
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Rusty wrote:
@ Paulc..Thanks That's an interesting thought,will do some tests on full manual and regulate exposure by manipulating iso
shining a point source light into the lens from either side give some reflections of the slightly worn parts of the iris , but difficult to say if it can have such drastic effect ,and only at f22 the reflections are visible from f5.6
@ Peterqd.. Thanks Peter..Is the sensorflare that you mention related to bloom or is that totally something else? |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6603 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 8:56 pm Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
Which Yashinon is this ?
There is a fairly rare automatic Yashinon 200/4.5 made by Tokina I believe, also sold by Ricoh for a short time. If you are having quality problems that may explain its rarity.
The other one is much more common, also made by Tokina, but its a preset and I have seen this sold as a Yashinon-R, not a Super-Yashinon. I have a version of this and I have seen no flare.
Could you post a picture of the lens ?
As for problems at f/22 - this is very likely. Not all lenses are very good stopped down this much. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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Rusty
Joined: 06 Nov 2008 Posts: 435 Location: Mosselbay, South Africa
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Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 10:25 am Post subject: |
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Rusty wrote:
Hi Luis
Here are images of the lens
Something unusual to ne was that the lens came with a drop in rear filter (kodak made skylight), never seen that on a 200mm
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7447 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 12:45 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Rusty wrote: |
@ Peterqd.. Thanks Peter..Is the sensorflare that you mention related to bloom or is that totally something else? |
I don't know, I gave up on this lens as someone ruined the screwheads and I can't open it up to clean it. At f16 it flares like mad, at 5.6 it has almost disappeared. The built-in hood was useless.
These test pics were (top) @ f16 without a hood and (bottom) @ f5.6 with a 150mm long rolled-up cardboard hood!
_________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Rusty
Joined: 06 Nov 2008 Posts: 435 Location: Mosselbay, South Africa
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Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 8:00 pm Post subject: |
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Rusty wrote:
@ Peterqd
I Did some more shots.... exactly the same result as what you posted
It looks like a total loss of contrast from 5.6 getting worse as you stop down , starting at the center of the lens
Mine even flares with the sun almost 90 deg to the lens axis
....opened it up and cleaned all surfaces but no improvement
one lens for the bin maybe |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57852 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 8:16 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Good for collectors, pretty rare.
I wasn't satisfied with my Yashica ML 135mm (cosina made) and Yashica ML 200mm too. Shorter focal lengths Yashicas are great ones anyway. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7447 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 8:20 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Rusty wrote: |
Mine even flares with the sun almost 90 deg to the lens axis
....opened it up and cleaned all surfaces but no improvement
one lens for the bin maybe |
That's a shame, those red flower pics show the lens has very good promise. If I could have opened mine, I was going to try painting the edges of the lens elements black and also see if there are any other reflective surfaces inside that needed matt black treatment. Maybe you could try that before you bin it. _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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Rusty
Joined: 06 Nov 2008 Posts: 435 Location: Mosselbay, South Africa
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Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 8:38 pm Post subject: |
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Rusty wrote:
@ Peterqd
I am going to give it a try Holding the backend of the lens against my eye and pointing it towards the light , there is reflections of the insides of the barrel (as if the black paint is not matte enough) the barrel lights up light grey where the light hits it
Any advice on paint to use ? maybe ordinary schoolblackboard paint applied with a small brush? |
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Rusty
Joined: 06 Nov 2008 Posts: 435 Location: Mosselbay, South Africa
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Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 8:42 pm Post subject: |
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Rusty wrote:
Attila wrote: |
Good for collectors, pretty rare.
I wasn't satisfied with my Yashica ML 135mm (cosina made) and Yashica ML 200mm too. Shorter focal lengths Yashicas are great ones anyway. |
Attila
Can you recognise the maker of this lens from the pictures maybe?
Last edited by Rusty on Sat Jan 03, 2009 8:53 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57852 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 8:49 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
No idea unfortunatelly! Luisegaleria and Koji our expert in this field, this is a rare lens, very rare I think. Keep in big respect if you don't want to keep please ask them first , perhaps missing lens form their collection. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Rusty
Joined: 06 Nov 2008 Posts: 435 Location: Mosselbay, South Africa
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Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 8:55 pm Post subject: |
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Rusty wrote:
Thanks Attila ...will wait for their replies |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6603 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 11:38 pm Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
Hi Rusty,
Yes, its a Yashinon-R, of the first series of Yashinon lenses made for their SLRs. Actually made by Tokina/Tokyo Koki. Its a very common lens, as it was sold under many brands. It is uncommon under the Yashinon brand though, as it was sold only in the early days of the Yashica SLR business, there are sure to be collectors looking for it.
I have the same lens sold under a merchants brand.
http://forum.mflenses.com/lentar-tokina-200-4-5-preset-another-lens-of-many-names-t11353,highlight,lentar.html
Mine doesn't have a flare problem, and I never heard of this problem with this lens. It could be an unfortunate interaction with this particular combination of DSLR and lens. Or maybe it's a problem with the drop-in filter - mine doesn't have that. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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Rusty
Joined: 06 Nov 2008 Posts: 435 Location: Mosselbay, South Africa
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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 7:41 am Post subject: |
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Rusty wrote:
Thanks Luis
The shots were taken with with the filter removed, so i will start with reblacking the interior and then go from there
I have to keep my lens collection larger than my "useless lenses box"
The latter is growing fast!
Thanks once again
Daniel |
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Rusty
Joined: 06 Nov 2008 Posts: 435 Location: Mosselbay, South Africa
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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 8:53 am Post subject: |
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Rusty wrote:
One last image from the flare generator before i take it apart
overcast and rainy,min focus distance at iso 200 5.6 on 20D
Hope i can rescue it from going to that lens box
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wariag
Joined: 08 Dec 2008 Posts: 59 Location: Lodz, Poland
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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 4:11 pm Post subject: |
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wariag wrote:
PaulC wrote: |
I doubt that it is the sensor. Sensor flare is described as creating little rainbow patterns or banding in high contrast areas, neither description fits this. |
IMHO, sensor is protected by flat glass filter, which obviously reflects much more light than 35mm film surface, so it reflects quite big amount of light back to the lens. This light can bounce back towards the sensor again - this is just usual flare, but very annoying as many good pre-digital era lenses give horrible results on dSLR. That depends much on the shapes and distances of the individual lenses in the objective lens construction, Canon tries to eliminate sensor flaring by using i.e. meniscus lenses in modern constructions.
Some of my worse lenses in case of sensor flaring are Jupiter-21m, Telear 200/3.5.
The best lens till then is Meyer optic Trioplan 100/2.8 - this is Cooke triplet lens and it has no semi-flat surfaces in it's construction comparing to i.e. mentioned Telear 200/3.5 which has one such lens inside.
If You are not sure how sensor flare can look like, try to shoot some lights at night with UV filter on Your best lens |
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wariag
Joined: 08 Dec 2008 Posts: 59 Location: Lodz, Poland
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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 4:24 pm Post subject: |
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wariag wrote:
Rusty wrote: |
Thanks Luis
The shots were taken with with the filter removed, so i will start with reblacking the interior and then go from there
I have to keep my lens collection larger than my "useless lenses box"
The latter is growing fast!
Thanks once again
Daniel |
Hi,
as luisalegria said, this lens is common and I have one with Hanimex name.
It's flaring indeed, especially in back light conditions, but it's worse stepped down than wide open. At full opening it's not bad at all. I've sold my Super Takumar 200/4, then bought this lens very cheap for it's H-mount ring which I needed - and It appeared, than I have IQ of "Super Tak" back with this one
Try to look inside Your lens - looking through it (from both sides) towards i.e. halogen bulb - and search for dust or oil on the lenses - it can be the cause of flaring. |
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Rusty
Joined: 06 Nov 2008 Posts: 435 Location: Mosselbay, South Africa
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Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 9:24 pm Post subject: |
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Rusty wrote:
@ Wariag
I tried to clean it as well as possible, there is still some oily residue on the extreme perimeter of the glass against the metal, the lenses are recessed quite deep into the barrel and difficult to clean
I'm still scraping together courage to dismantle, in fear of disturbing some lens alignment |
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wariag
Joined: 08 Dec 2008 Posts: 59 Location: Lodz, Poland
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Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 10:30 am Post subject: |
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wariag wrote:
Rusty wrote: |
@ Wariag
I tried to clean it as well as possible, there is still some oily residue on the extreme perimeter of the glass against the metal, the lenses are recessed quite deep into the barrel and difficult to clean
I'm still scraping together courage to dismantle, in fear of disturbing some lens alignment |
Tele lenses of similar construction seems to be quite tolerable for "home servicing". I did complete disassembly of Orestegor 200/4 and I did not put any marks on lenses and barrels, so the state of collimation of re-assembled construction was the matter of accident, but the lens is still OK
If You are worried about it, put small mark on the glass and the lens housing barrel with something like CD marker, so You can assemble them as close as possible to original angular position.
BTW, I doubt that someone in the factory of cheap tele's would try to align lenses which are not part of compound cemented lens (maybe in JML and Leitz factories..) |
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Rusty
Joined: 06 Nov 2008 Posts: 435 Location: Mosselbay, South Africa
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Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 11:55 am Post subject: |
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Rusty wrote:
Thanks !will try tonight...it is not much use with the flare anyway
if something goes wrong ...nothing lost really
just more spares gained |
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