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yalcinaydin
Joined: 20 May 2008 Posts: 825 Location: Izmir, Turkey
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Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2008 6:46 pm Post subject: Tamron SP 70-210mm F/3.5-4 Model 52A |
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yalcinaydin wrote:
http://www.adaptall-2.com/lenses/52A.html
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yalcinaydin/sets/72157608482443470/
_________________ My name is "Yalcin", and exactly "Yalçın" and here you can find my MF samples:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yalcinaydin/sets/
Right now switching back to AF because of work needs but I still love the MF lenses |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2008 7:24 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
This is a very good lens I know very well, congrats for your new toy! _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2008 7:54 pm Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
Yes, I fully agree with Attila, a wonderful lens. My favourite for macro/portrait...
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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voytek
Joined: 24 Nov 2009 Posts: 891
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Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2008 8:55 pm Post subject: |
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voytek wrote:
Agree. Later version 19AH was introduced as much better performer. This is not true. I would say that 19AH is sharper wide open but 52A is more contrasty -even wide open. _________________ Cheers, Voytek |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2008 9:04 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
I also didn't find much difference between them , both are just great lenses. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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yalcinaydin
Joined: 20 May 2008 Posts: 825 Location: Izmir, Turkey
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Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2008 9:23 pm Post subject: |
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yalcinaydin wrote:
I've a sale ad for this, now I'm both confused and shamed _________________ My name is "Yalcin", and exactly "Yalçın" and here you can find my MF samples:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/yalcinaydin/sets/
Right now switching back to AF because of work needs but I still love the MF lenses |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Sun Nov 09, 2008 9:31 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Sell if you want I am sure later you will take another one _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Rob Leslie
Joined: 20 Mar 2007 Posts: 1103 Location: UK Swindon
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Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2008 8:24 pm Post subject: |
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Rob Leslie wrote:
I have both the 19AH and 52A and find the 19AH a much better performer. The 52A does have closer macro. The 19AH is also a one touch zoom that some don't like and has more bulk and weight than the 52A.
I don't find the 52A to be very good wide open while the 19AH is very sharp wide at all FL. I would and do prefer to use the 19AH, in fact I now never use the 52A.
I find the 19AH to be a great winter walk around wildlife lens being excellent at f3.5 all through the range and it just seems to 'Pop' into focus without effort.
I actually find my f3.8/4 80-210 103A to be as good as the 52A and the lens is nice compact size (Don't mistake it with the early f3.8/4 80-210)
Comparing the test figures on the 52A and 103A confirms this.
103A
http://www.adaptall-2.com/lenses/103A.html
52A
http://www.adaptall-2.com/lenses/52A.html
While the figures for the 19AH show why it replaced the 52A
http://www.adaptall-2.com/lenses/19AH.html _________________ Pentax K10D & K100D. Many Tamron Adaptall SP lenses, Fujinon f4.5 400mm. A loved Lens Baby 2, Lubitel triplet +++ and many film cameras. Mainly a Digital user inc G5, GR2
http://robstreet.blogspot.com/
http://robleslie.blogspot.com/
http://roblesliephotography.blogspot.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64956578@N00/ |
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ChrisLilley
Joined: 01 Jan 2008 Posts: 1767 Location: Nice, France
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Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 11:37 am Post subject: |
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ChrisLilley wrote:
The discussions of lens design tradeoffs (and thus, optimal use for each lens) on the adaptall site are really nice. I wish other brands had similarly detailed information available. _________________ Camera (ˈkæ mə rə), n. Device for taking pictures in bright light
There are 10 kinds of people in the world: those who understand binary, and those who don’t. Key: Ai-P, Ai, Ai'ed, AiS
Camera: Nikon D90, D40, DK-21M eyepiece, ML-3 remote MF lenses: Nikkor 20mm f/4 K, AI'ed | N.K. Nikkor-N 24mm f/2.8 | Nikkor-N.C 24mm f/2.8 | Nikkor 28mm f/2.8 AiS late model | Арсенал (Arsenal) Мир-24Н (Mir-24N) 35mm f/2 | Cosina Voigtländer Ultron SL II 40mm f/2.0 | Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2.8 AiS | Zoom-Nikkor 80-200 f/4.5 Ai | ЛЗОС (LZOS) Юпитер-9 (Jupiter-9) 85mm f/2 | Cosina Voigtländer APO-Lanthar 90mm f/3.5 SL | Nikkor-P 105mm f/2.5 pre-Ai, Ai'ed | Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/4 | Schneider Kreuznach Componon 105mm f/5.6 | Nikkor 135mm f/2.8, Ai'ed 1976 model | Nikkor 180mm f/2.8 ED AiS | Арсенал (Arsenal) ТЕЛЕАР-Н (Telear-n) 200mm f/3.5 | Nikkor 300 mm f/4.5 Ai (full equipment list) |
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Rob Leslie
Joined: 20 Mar 2007 Posts: 1103 Location: UK Swindon
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Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 10:51 pm Post subject: |
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Rob Leslie wrote:
ChrisLilley wrote: |
The discussions of lens design tradeoffs (and thus, optimal use for each lens) on the adaptall site are really nice. I wish other brands had similarly detailed information available. |
I agree it is a very good site. He really knows what he is writting about and he also tries to be unbiased and fair. Unfortunately he seems to have gone missing. He no longer posts anywhere and his mail goes unanwered.
It will be a shame if the Adaptall site goes down. _________________ Pentax K10D & K100D. Many Tamron Adaptall SP lenses, Fujinon f4.5 400mm. A loved Lens Baby 2, Lubitel triplet +++ and many film cameras. Mainly a Digital user inc G5, GR2
http://robstreet.blogspot.com/
http://robleslie.blogspot.com/
http://roblesliephotography.blogspot.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/64956578@N00/ |
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epocalibera
Joined: 15 Aug 2014 Posts: 4 Location: Athens, Greece
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Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 11:03 am Post subject: disassemble information needed |
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epocalibera wrote:
Hello everybody,
I got this classic lens (Tamron SP 70-210mm F/3.5-4 Model 52A) some time ago from ebay, a copy with fungus.
In the past i have managed to disassemble the back of the lens (from the mount, up to the aperture mechanism) and cleaned some elements. I can provide information to anyone interested on how this is done, as I have kept notes.
I have also tried to disassemble the front of the lens, because I need to clean the forth element counting from the front.
I have managed to disassemble only the two first elements from the front. After this a ring holding the third and forth elements (counting from the front) does not seem that it can be unscrewed. Seems something more complicated should be done there. I need some information exactly on this point, in order to be able to remove the forth lens element. _________________ http://www.epocalibera.com/ |
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JohnBar
Joined: 21 Jun 2012 Posts: 581 Location: Liverpool
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Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 11:21 am Post subject: Re: disassemble information needed |
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JohnBar wrote:
epocalibera wrote: |
Hello everybody,
I got this classic lens (Tamron SP 70-210mm F/3.5-4 Model 52A) some time ago from ebay, a copy with fungus.
In the past i have managed to disassemble the back of the lens (from the mount, up to the aperture mechanism) and cleaned some elements. I can provide information to anyone interested on how this is done, as I have kept notes.
I have also tried to disassemble the front of the lens, because I need to clean the forth element counting from the front.
I have managed to disassemble only the two first elements from the front. After this a ring holding the third and forth elements (counting from the front) does not seem that it can be unscrewed. Seems something more complicated should be done there. I need some information exactly on this point, in order to be able to remove the forth lens element. |
You got mail _________________ Rectilux 3FF Series single focus anamorphic attachments
http://www.transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/rectilux-3ff.html
Regular News on https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rectilux/704770636267200 |
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epocalibera
Joined: 15 Aug 2014 Posts: 4 Location: Athens, Greece
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Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 11:55 am Post subject: Re: disassemble information needed |
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epocalibera wrote:
JohnBar wrote: |
epocalibera wrote: |
Hello everybody,
I got this classic lens (Tamron SP 70-210mm F/3.5-4 Model 52A) some time ago from ebay, a copy with fungus.
In the past i have managed to disassemble the back of the lens (from the mount, up to the aperture mechanism) and cleaned some elements. I can provide information to anyone interested on how this is done, as I have kept notes.
I have also tried to disassemble the front of the lens, because I need to clean the forth element counting from the front.
I have managed to disassemble only the two first elements from the front. After this a ring holding the third and forth elements (counting from the front) does not seem that it can be unscrewed. Seems something more complicated should be done there. I need some information exactly on this point, in order to be able to remove the forth lens element. |
You got mail |
Hi JohnBar and thank you for your reply.
If I am not wrong you replied to my message and told me that you have sent me something on my email concerning post.
As far as I can see i have not received anything from you until now.
Kind Regards! _________________ http://www.epocalibera.com/ |
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epocalibera
Joined: 15 Aug 2014 Posts: 4 Location: Athens, Greece
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Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 7:36 pm Post subject: |
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epocalibera wrote:
Thank you JohnBar for the information on the message:
You told me "remove rubber from focus ring,then remove metallic tape, then you see how to remove the front tube".
This did the job. I am working on the lens now cleaning the front elements. I have also discovered the secret on how to remove the third and forth element. There is also another secret hidden behind the lens hood: 4 screws hold the ring with all the four elements into position, and for this it could not be unscrewed.
So there are two ways on removing the four front elements.
Here are two pictures from what I do now:
_________________ http://www.epocalibera.com/ |
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JohnBar
Joined: 21 Jun 2012 Posts: 581 Location: Liverpool
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Posted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 8:27 pm Post subject: |
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JohnBar wrote:
Very good.
Now you must reveal the method to remove the secret screws behind the hood _________________ Rectilux 3FF Series single focus anamorphic attachments
http://www.transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/rectilux-3ff.html
Regular News on https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rectilux/704770636267200 |
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epocalibera
Joined: 15 Aug 2014 Posts: 4 Location: Athens, Greece
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Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 4:20 pm Post subject: |
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epocalibera wrote:
JohnBar wrote: |
Very good.
Now you must reveal the method to remove the secret screws behind the hood |
I did not unscrew the secret screws because behind the hood: those screws block the ring with the 3rd and the 4th front elements from unscrewing. I was afraid that if I unscrew this, I might loose the correct focusing of the lens.
So I preferred the other way as you have seen on the pictures above: I removed the front of the lens totally .
this is not an easy method as well, but seemed to me more safe, and after all it revealed more glass elements to clear.
The front of the lens was totally unscrewed from the helicoid focus ring and i cleaned the glass elements.
It is not so easy to put it back together, there is only one correct position (of many) that the front element should be screwed back to the helicoid. Anyoe who is interested on doing this must be patient and carefull.
It is OK now i have cleaned the lens, I have fitted the parts together, tested and works OK.
Here is a picture for anyone who is interested to see at which point the lens hood can be unscrewed in order to reveal the secret screws behind.
_________________ http://www.epocalibera.com/ |
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JohnBar
Joined: 21 Jun 2012 Posts: 581 Location: Liverpool
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Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 5:27 pm Post subject: |
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JohnBar wrote:
Yes, I had expected that the hood became free as your photo shows, but the force required seemed excessive so I was not totally sure.
You did a good job
Perhaps now you can share how you cleaned the glass at the rear, as you said in your earlier post _________________ Rectilux 3FF Series single focus anamorphic attachments
http://www.transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/rectilux-3ff.html
Regular News on https://www.facebook.com/pages/Rectilux/704770636267200 |
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