View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
zippie
Joined: 11 May 2009 Posts: 80 Location: Belgium
|
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:09 am Post subject: SOLVED!!! Focus Screen installed- problems with fast lenses. |
|
|
zippie wrote:
Hello,
I recently installed a focusscreen in my Eos 1000D.
The first tests indicated that I had a big front focus problem and needed to remove the original canon shim.
So I did and then I had a back focus problem so I adjusted with shims I made out of very thin plastic.
Checked again and it seemed to be well adjusted.
So far so good but I still have shots out of focus with fast lenses. Especially my Tak 50/1.4
I use also focus confirmation in combination with the focus screen and the screen indicates correct focus, the focus confirmation confirms this and when I take the shot the focus is not spot on.
When I use the lens @ F2 or higher things improve.
Could this be micro-movement? Or is the focusscreen nok?
Last edited by zippie on Thu Aug 12, 2010 6:37 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vulko
|
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 9:01 am Post subject: |
|
|
vulko wrote:
I'd say its the screen problem you have. You shouldn't get front or back focus with manual focus lens. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zippie
Joined: 11 May 2009 Posts: 80 Location: Belgium
|
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 9:32 am Post subject: |
|
|
zippie wrote:
actually you can have front and back focus.
if the focusscreen is a little closer or further from the prism, you can see the image as sharp, but the image recorded is not in focus. _________________ Asahi Pentax: 35/3.5-50/1.4-55/1.8-135/3.5-200/4
Pentacon: 50/1.8-500/5.6
Chinon: Auto Chinon 55/1.7
Vivitar: 28/2.8 (AIS)
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 Konime
CZJ 135/3.5
Pancolar 50/1.8
Planar T* 50/1.4
Flektogon 35/2.8
Flektogon 25/4
Meyer-Optik G�rlitz 180/5.5 (Exa-mount)
Panagor 200/3.5
Zeiss Ikon Nettar |
|
Back to top |
|
|
visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10543 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
|
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 10:12 am Post subject: |
|
|
visualopsins wrote:
The focus screen is too 'slow' to show dof changes below f/2; the fresnel lines are not fine enough to bend light rays from the outer perimeter of the lens front element through to eye; the perimeter light rays do get to sensor so out-of-focus is recorded. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
zippie
Joined: 11 May 2009 Posts: 80 Location: Belgium
|
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 10:28 am Post subject: |
|
|
zippie wrote:
And are there any screens out there that can do this? katz eye?
Regards, _________________ Asahi Pentax: 35/3.5-50/1.4-55/1.8-135/3.5-200/4
Pentacon: 50/1.8-500/5.6
Chinon: Auto Chinon 55/1.7
Vivitar: 28/2.8 (AIS)
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 Konime
CZJ 135/3.5
Pancolar 50/1.8
Planar T* 50/1.4
Flektogon 35/2.8
Flektogon 25/4
Meyer-Optik G�rlitz 180/5.5 (Exa-mount)
Panagor 200/3.5
Zeiss Ikon Nettar |
|
Back to top |
|
|
kuuan
Joined: 14 Jan 2008 Posts: 4573 Location: right now: Austria
Expire: 2014-12-26
|
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 2:39 pm Post subject: |
|
|
kuuan wrote:
hm, though I do not have any of the technical knowledge of visualopsins, I'd say that yes I can focus my 1.4/50 Tak at @f1.4 correctly, both with a cheap chinese split focus screen in one, and a Katz Eye in the other camera.
I had needed a long time to calibrate the focus screens correctly though. _________________ my photos on flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/kuuan/collections |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zippie
Joined: 11 May 2009 Posts: 80 Location: Belgium
|
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 4:29 pm Post subject: |
|
|
zippie wrote:
I checked again and see clearly that when object is in focus, i can still turn the focus ring without any apparent change in the viewfinder. When i take pictures at the different stages of being in focus, i can see the dof change. Above f2 this problem is gone. I think i will have to look out for a katz eye. _________________ Asahi Pentax: 35/3.5-50/1.4-55/1.8-135/3.5-200/4
Pentacon: 50/1.8-500/5.6
Chinon: Auto Chinon 55/1.7
Vivitar: 28/2.8 (AIS)
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 Konime
CZJ 135/3.5
Pancolar 50/1.8
Planar T* 50/1.4
Flektogon 35/2.8
Flektogon 25/4
Meyer-Optik G�rlitz 180/5.5 (Exa-mount)
Panagor 200/3.5
Zeiss Ikon Nettar |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zippie
Joined: 11 May 2009 Posts: 80 Location: Belgium
|
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 6:43 pm Post subject: |
|
|
zippie wrote:
I have rechecked everything and decided to start all over again.
After putting the original screen and shim back everything was ok.
I removed the standard screen and put in the split screen and left the original shim.
Results were very good.
Seems i had removed the shim the first time and put it back the wrong way. this was causing the frontfocus the first time. (stupid I know)
While i was having good results I tried to test my homemade focus screen for my EOS D30. I removed the orginal shim and put my homemade screen in. The focus was spot on with my Tak50/1.4.
Next project will be an F3 or K3 screen from nikon for my 1000D.
Thanks for the input eveybody.
Regards,
Jurgen _________________ Asahi Pentax: 35/3.5-50/1.4-55/1.8-135/3.5-200/4
Pentacon: 50/1.8-500/5.6
Chinon: Auto Chinon 55/1.7
Vivitar: 28/2.8 (AIS)
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 Konime
CZJ 135/3.5
Pancolar 50/1.8
Planar T* 50/1.4
Flektogon 35/2.8
Flektogon 25/4
Meyer-Optik G�rlitz 180/5.5 (Exa-mount)
Panagor 200/3.5
Zeiss Ikon Nettar |
|
Back to top |
|
|
torbod
Joined: 31 Jan 2010 Posts: 379 Location: Sweden
|
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 7:22 pm Post subject: |
|
|
torbod wrote:
Glad you fixed it finally.
Just a question, how do you make DIY focusing screens?
BR
T _________________
For Sale or Trade: Pick from the list below.
Manual Lenses: CV 15 4.5 | MIR-20H 20 3.5 | Elmarit-R 28 2.8 | Flektogon MC 35 2.4 | S-M-C Tak 50 1.4 | Rollei 50 1.8 HFT | Helios 44-3 MC 58 2 | MC ROKKOR-X 58 1.2 | MacroPlanar 60 2.8 | Vega-12b 90 2.8 | Tamron 52B 90 2.5 | CZJ 135 3.5 | Jupiter-21A 200 4 | Tair-3s 300 4.5 | KOHBEPTEP K-1 | Takumar x2 |
Camera: Sony Nex 5N |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
zippie
Joined: 11 May 2009 Posts: 80 Location: Belgium
|
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:43 pm Post subject: |
|
|
zippie wrote:
Just find a broken slr or buy a nikon f3 or k3 focus screen and then measure your original screen and cut /sand the second screen to the required size. You might have a small problem when the screens thickness is different, but that can be solved by shims or sanding the sides of the screen to make it flatter. I used an old slr screen, cut it to size installed it without a shim and it works perfect. Will post pictures soon. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
|
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:47 pm Post subject: |
|
|
LucisPictor wrote:
zippie wrote: |
Just find a broken slr or buy a nikon f3 or k3 focus screen and then measure your original screen and cut /sand the second screen to the required size. You might have a small problem when the screens thickness is different, but that can be solved by shims or sanding the sides of the screen to make it flatter. I used an old slr screen, cut it to size installed it without a shim and it works perfect. Will post pictures soon. |
That's what I do in my 5D.
But we must not forget that the metering might be problematic. _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vulko
|
Posted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 9:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
vulko wrote:
zippie wrote: |
actually you can have front and back focus.
if the focusscreen is a little closer or further from the prism, you can see the image as sharp, but the image recorded is not in focus. |
I'd say you have troubles with focusing system in the body and it need to be calibrated. As the visualopsins said focusing screen isn't very precise when it comes to dof. And 1000d is the cheapest canon dslr, the prism is quite poor, so is the focusing screen and viewfinder. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zippie
Joined: 11 May 2009 Posts: 80 Location: Belgium
|
Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 5:55 am Post subject: |
|
|
zippie wrote:
Yes, i found out the hard way.
But nog i am able to focus within a margin of about 1 mm when I do a ruler test @ 45°. So it accurate enough now for me.
I find it even more accurate then my focus confirmation adapters.
And much more visual. You can see the prisms disappear when focus is achieved. so you also see the DOF change when you focus. very good indeed.
Next camera I will need to spend some more money and buy a FF.
vulko wrote: |
zippie wrote: |
actually you can have front and back focus.
if the focusscreen is a little closer or further from the prism, you can see the image as sharp, but the image recorded is not in focus. |
I'd say you have troubles with focusing system in the body and it need to be calibrated. As the visualopsins said focusing screen isn't very precise when it comes to dof. And 1000d is the cheapest canon dslr, the prism is quite poor, so is the focusing screen and viewfinder. |
Last edited by zippie on Fri Aug 13, 2010 5:59 am; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
zippie
Joined: 11 May 2009 Posts: 80 Location: Belgium
|
Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 5:57 am Post subject: |
|
|
zippie wrote:
Yes I know, but once you know the impact, you can adjust accordingly.
But for now I used an old russian focus screen. Metering is perfect with this screen. No split image just a BIG circle of micropisms. No Black out of the prisms even at F11. And the viewfinder of the D30 is bigger then the 1000D. So it is very easy to achieve correct focus on my D30 now.
Where do you buy the F3 or K3 screens from?
Is the thickness of the nikon screens a problem?
LucisPictor wrote: |
zippie wrote: |
Just find a broken slr or buy a nikon f3 or k3 focus screen and then measure your original screen and cut /sand the second screen to the required size. You might have a small problem when the screens thickness is different, but that can be solved by shims or sanding the sides of the screen to make it flatter. I used an old slr screen, cut it to size installed it without a shim and it works perfect. Will post pictures soon. |
That's what I do in my 5D.
But we must not forget that the metering might be problematic. |
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
vulko
|
Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 7:48 am Post subject: |
|
|
vulko wrote:
zippie wrote: |
Yes I know, but once you know the impact, you can adjust accordingly.
But for now I used an old russian focus screen. Metering is perfect with this screen. No split image just a BIG circle of micropisms. No Black out of the prisms even at F11. And the viewfinder of the D30 is bigger then the 1000D. So it is very easy to achieve correct focus on my D30 now.
|
Can you tell more about this russian focusing screen? Where did you get it, from which camera e.t.c.
Tnx. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
my_photography
Joined: 03 Nov 2008 Posts: 2772 Location: Pearl of the Orient
Expire: 2016-12-25
|
Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 4:20 pm Post subject: |
|
|
my_photography wrote:
vulko wrote: |
zippie wrote: |
Yes I know, but once you know the impact, you can adjust accordingly.
But for now I used an old russian focus screen. Metering is perfect with this screen. No split image just a BIG circle of micropisms. No Black out of the prisms even at F11. And the viewfinder of the D30 is bigger then the 1000D. So it is very easy to achieve correct focus on my D30 now.
|
Can you tell more about this russian focusing screen? Where did you get it, from which camera e.t.c.
Tnx. |
Yes, I am also interested to know about this Russian screen. _________________
Zeiss: CJZ Flektogon 20/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 20/4, , CJZ Pentacon 29/2.8, CJZ Flektogon 35/2.4, CJZ Pancolar 50/1.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Biotar 7.5cm/1.5, CJZ Pancolar 80/1.8, CJZ Sonnar 135/3.5, CJZ Pentacon 135/2.8 CJZ Sonnar 200/2.8
Other Germany: Meyer Primoplan 50/1.8, Meyer Trioplan 100/2.8
Takumar: SMC 50/1.4 Super Tak 55/2, Super Tak 85/1.9, S-M-C 135/3.5, Super Tak 150/4
Russian: Zenith 16/2.8, Mir-24M 2/35, Volna-9 50/2.8, Helios 44M (58/2), Helios 44M-3 MC (58/2), Helios 40 (85/1.5), Tair 11A (135/2.8 )
Others: Sears 28/2.8, Sankor 35/2.8, Enna M�nchen Tele-Ennalyt 135/3.5
Zoom Sigma Zoom 28-85/3.5-4.5
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
zippie
Joined: 11 May 2009 Posts: 80 Location: Belgium
|
Posted: Sat Aug 14, 2010 8:59 am Post subject: |
|
|
zippie wrote:
Hello,
As promised some pictures of my homemade focus screen.
The screen comes from a Zenit TTL.
This is normally a focus screen in 2 parts.
1 part with the micropisms and the second screen is a milky white screen with a clear circle in the middle.
I only used the microprism part because the image is so much brighter.
Metering is not affected as far as I could test.
I tried to take some picture trough the viewfinder ofthe D30 with a P&S camera. so the picture quality is not great.
Image out of focus.
Image in focus. (focus on top of the chair)
If you look closely you can the parts out of focus trough the chair.
And finally the focus screen installled in the D30
And offcourse the picture taken with the D30
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|