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Solution for Canon overexposure with MF lenses?
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 3:56 pm    Post subject: Solution for Canon overexposure with MF lenses? Reply with quote

For over a year I have been vexed by my 40d's unreliable metering when using MF lenses. I have chipped Nikon and M42 adapters, and wide open they give me a nice focus confirm and correct metering. The moment I go to a smaller aperture, my metering becomes unreliable - from 1 to 3 stops overexposure, depending on the lens and aperture chosen. I have discussed this last year in a thread, and it seems a fairly common problem.

I found out that this only happens when shooting through the viewfinder - in live view metering and exposure are fairly constant and correct. What I now do is:

    1. Focus through the viewfinder, using my (oh, so practical) AF confirm adapters
    2. Set the right aperture for my shot
    3. Press the "SET" button (the one in the middle of the rear wheel) to activate live view.
    4. Wait a split second to allow live view metering (which is a bit slow as you can see when you have the live view histogram enabled) and then
    5. Press the shutter.

No more problems of overexposed photo's - and much more fun with my few old MF lenses.

The one drawback is that the moment you press the "SET" button the viewfinder blacks out - so you're activating the shutter "in the blind", maybe causing small shifts in composition. But your first shot is also a metering shot - the review will show you what speed goes with the aperture you set, and you can repeat the process in manual mode, or dial in a correct exposure correction value in AV mode.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could just use manual mode, metering at the aperture you know works well for the lens and then manually recalculate settings for desired taking aperture.

Better and more convenient would be to change your focussing screen to EF-S, making sure to change settings in the camera menu. This should cure your manual focus metering blues and give much better focussing for your faster lenses.

Just posted this in another thread, but think its relevant here too:

Quote:
In my experience

Canon EOS 40D with EF-S screen meters fine with MFL's, with or without AF confirm chips.

Canon 400D on the other hand meters poorly with MFL's, typically (some variance depending on lens) under-exposing with wide open fast lenses (F/2.8 or faster), metering about right around F/4 - 5.6 and progressively over-exposing above F/5.6. Appears to make no difference whether AF confirm chips (non-programable ones anyway) are used or not. Manual mode metering also effected just the same, unless you manually meter at the best known metering aperture for the lens (usually F/4 - 5.6 in my case) and calculate your own setting for other apertures.

Generally, I found AF confirm just gave a false sense of confidence in focussing and then left me wondering why so many shots were not sharply focussed. I do not rely on them now, preferring to use my eyes. Laughing


PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are there a batch of Canon cmeras that cannot meter or something? I have never had an issue with exposure.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Me neither, I have NO problem metering on my 20d using m42 lenses and adapter, havnt got around to trying fd lenses yet tho


PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How about EV correction? Much faster than live view mode, which is good mostly for macro shooting.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with Fergus.

EF-S matte screen.
M Mode.

Smile


PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I've the same problem with exposure, with chipped adapter In Av mode. OK wide open, gets worse when stopping down (overexposure).

I don't like LiveView, so I use M mode, and I'm far from being sure my pictures are well exposed. But I prefer to underexpose and post-process than overexpose, results are much better. Maybe I should dig back into the manual and read again on bracketing Smile

I also have a non-chipped adapter, and it works fine in Av mode... But I somehow miss the Af-confirm, even if I admit it's not always 100% perfect - but these are in cases with very small dof, and I'm not sure it's better with full manual focus.

So, not a perfect world Wink


PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have found that the 400D gets no brighter when the lens opens wider than F4 and the 40D at F2.8 hence the focus problems. The 5Ds are great for fast lenses!!!!!!

Does your camera expose properly with AF lenses? What metering mode are you using?


PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to set things straight: I'm not advocating live view, I keep the camera at my eyes al the time. Only thing I do is just before activating the shutter I press the SET button (Live view mode on, of course). Viewfinder gets dark, camera meters in live view mode, I press shutter - bang - no overexposure, regardless of aperture setting. Then I press SET again to get out of live view mode and check my photo (or just shoot another one).

@fergus: I found out that tricking my camera into thinking it has an Ef-S screen reduces the overexposure significantly. Recalculation is a problem: to give you an impression, on an old Nikkor H-C 2.0, an aperture range of:
2 - 2.8 - 4 - 5.6 - 8 - 11 - 16
gives the following exposure range (correctly metered, identical histograms)
640 - 400 - 160 - 80 - 50 - 40 - 20

@martinsmith: where did you get your 40d? (5d's seem to be more reliable, afaik) Glad to swap mine for one that meters flawlessly. Btw: what firmware are you using? Don't know if my 40d was also off before 1.1

@trev: haven't got a 20d to try it, but heard so before. Don't try fd lenses tho - they don't register.

@vulko: see above: I don't shoot in live view mode, just use it for metering. As for EV correction: for some lenses I need more than -2 EV, and the relation between aperture and overexposure isn't linear (see exposure series above)

@Oliver: Ef-s screen is one I'll have to try yet. If it works OK, AV and M are about equivalent (as long as you can trust your metering)

@ylad: problem with underexposing is that it gives you lot ots of noise in the dark areas once you post-process your photo. I've no non-chipped adapters, my eyes aren't suited for screen focusing (In the eighties, I switched from Canon A1 to Nikon F801 just because of AF and focus assist). As for very shallow DOF: autofocus isn't always spot-on, either (which explains about 30% of front- and back-focus complaints, imo)

@martinsmith-2: Would love a brighter viewfinder - but one 5d equals about 20 MF-lenses. No problems with AF-lenses - metering is always OK (unless I goof, of course). The LV trick works on all three metering modes - just as all three metering modes are off when I trust my viewfinder meter info.


PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AFAIK the exposure problem is related to using full-frame lens on crop-sensor camera. Hence no problem on 5D, with its full frame sensor. The larger image circle projected by the full frame lens, the extra light, causes the exposure problem.

Some folks have had success affixing a mask to rear of lens to reduce image circle diameter.


PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 12:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Just like to stress again that my 40D (crop-sensor camera) has no problems metering exposure in AV and manual mode when using Ef-S focus screen. Unfortunately, I can't get the 400D to do the same.


PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks as if I'll have to go for that Ef-s screen, then!


PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 2:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

visualopsins wrote:
AFAIK the exposure problem is related to using full-frame lens on crop-sensor camera. Hence no problem on 5D, with its full frame sensor.


It also has to do with the installed matte screen.
- I have got a Leica screen in my 5D and suddenly, metering is no longer consistent. Focusing is perfect, though (which is the reason why I use it! It's much better than the EE-S screen.).
- Perfect until f/2.0. F/2.8 needs -1/3 EV, f/4 needs -2/3 EV, f/5.6 needs -1 EV and so on.
- It doesn't matter which screen I activate in the menu!
- It neither matters if I use an AF-chip or not! Always the same effect!

I normally use Av-Mode, follow this compensation rule and then adjust if necessary. Problematic would only be if I shoot at f/22 or something, I guess. But I never shoot with an aperture closed down to more than f/8 anyway.


PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

Just to test and confirm that I wasn't kidding myself Laughing

Quick test with 40D (Ef-S) and Elmarit-R 60mm on 18% grey background with steady light gave pretty much perfectly consistent results from F/2.8 through to F/22 using AV mode.

400D (cheap split screen, had same problem with standard) same procedure as above. Additionally, I took the F/5.6 exposure setting and shot in manual mode calculating required exposure time, ignoring camera metering. Results below:

F/---AV speed---Exposure----M speed with correct exposure
2.8----1/2500-----1/2 under-----1/2000
4------1/1250-----1/3 under-----1/1000
5.6----1/500-------correct--------1/500
8------1/200-------1/2 over------1/250
11-----1/50--------1 1/3 over----1/125
16-----1/15---------2 over--------1/60
22-----1/8----------2 over--------1/30

When I say correct exposure, I really mean what I think is about right and using this as a comparative baseline.

When I have time I will try this with some different lenses, as I have noticed some variation like my modified Jupiter 9 on the 400D seems to expose fine from F/2 to 5.6 and then follows same trend as above.


PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have just ordered a new EE-S screen for my 5D (great price at amazon).
This way, I can use the screen that fits my plans best.
Changing the screen is a breeze.


PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My experience with EF, EF-S and about 50 MF lenses......

400D with standard screen - No problems metering
40D with all 3 Canon screens and currently fitted with modified Nikon screen - No problems metering
5D with standard and matte screen - No problems metering
5D mkii with standard and matte screen - .....you guessed it, no problems metering

The only camera I no longer have is the 5D. All work fine. Are you guys sure that you're; setting the right screen in the menu, correctly adjusting for backlit/dark/light subjects? Sorry but unless you all have faulty cameras I can't help thinking you must be doing something wrong.


PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've no problem thinking I do something wrong, I'm still a noob in that aspect. However, my tests are simple: take a shot wide-open, close down, take another shot, etc. First one is properly exposed, not the next ones.
When I do the same with non-chipped adapter, everything runs smooth.

What I do is manual, or compensating by locking exposure before closing.

@bobcominitaly: I know post-processing dark zones implies noise, but at least you get something. Burned zones are simply lost.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 6:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are shooting in manual and not adjusting the shutter speed when you stop the lens down then the exposure will be off. You would need to re-meter after stopping down or slow the shutter speed by the same amount.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 6:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have found the adapters to be the problem generally. Many cause the camera to over expose by about a quarter of a stop per aperture stop aftre f2.0. This happens with most of my adapters (bbought in different places) on all Canon cameras I've tried i.e. 300D, 10D, 30D, 40D, 5D.

If I use a lens with a maximum aperture of f3.5, I need to remember to set exposure compensation to -0.5.

I must experiment with exposure settings or different screens. I've currently using average.

Liveview resolves this, but if I stop the lens down once I've activated it, I need to de-activate and then re-activate it or the image is underexposed Laughing This behaviour is more like I am used to with the Sony alpha range, which all underexposed the more you stopped down.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 6:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree, with 5D, pretty much any manual lens I put on it, always overexposed the more I stopped down. With 5D MkII, it seems to be better, so long as I don't have a filter. Live View tends to consistently give me one stop less exposure than finder. Once I put an ND filter, though, problems about with the finder, so I have to use Live View to get reliable exposure.

I'm using the Eg-s screen.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

martinsmith99 wrote:
If you are shooting in manual and not adjusting the shutter speed when you stop the lens down then the exposure will be off. You would need to re-meter after stopping down or slow the shutter speed by the same amount.

Sorry, my statement was unclear. Naturally, I have the problem when I'm in Av mode. Going to Manual is a workaround, where I care myself about exposure.

But I didn't think about playing with exposure compensation (still struggling about learning how to use my camera...), I'll try that!


PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ylyad wrote:
But I didn't think about playing with exposure compensation (still struggling about learning how to use my camera...), I'll try that!


Exposure compensation won't help much for this situation, since the degree that needs to be offset changes depending on the aperture; more you stop down, the farther off the meter is. You have to memorize it anyway, or just take several shots to get it right.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rawhead wrote:
Exposure compensation won't help much for this situation, since the degree that needs to be offset changes depending on the aperture; more you stop down, the farther off the meter is. You have to memorize it anyway, or just take several shots to get it right.


There's actually +/-2 EV compesation possibility in postproccess when you shoot in raw. And when you have expirience, you'll be able to make the right compensation after just one shot and then maybe adjust a lil bit when processing raw.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rawhead wrote:
ylyad wrote:
But I didn't think about playing with exposure compensation (still struggling about learning how to use my camera...), I'll try that!


Exposure compensation won't help much for this situation, since the degree that needs to be offset changes depending on the aperture; more you stop down, the farther off the meter is. You have to memorize it anyway, or just take several shots to get it right.

Yes, but going to manual (i.e. setting the shutter time) is even more unreliable in my case...


PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have never noticed any MAJOR problems with my 350d but with some lenses I have noticed very slight underexposure the more I stop down but certainly not as bad as several stops