shooting with bellows

bob955i · Joined: 15 Apr 2007 Posts: 2495

Sorry can't do that either as I've sprained my wrists and ankles.

I can't even dictate as the dentist decided for some reason to extract all my teeth in one go so I can't talk.

Laughing

Schnauzer · Expire: 2012-03-08

You are in deep sh&t Bill. Good luck.

bob955i · Joined: 15 Apr 2007 Posts: 2495

OK Bill, I've chucked this together for you - the pix show a Flek 2.8/35 but most of the Zeiss Jena lenses of this era are fairly similar. Have a look, decide if you want to proceed, and work your way through them if you do and if you have any questions, scream.... Laughing

Use a driver with a good fit as these screws are sometimes quite tight - you can also apply a few drops of IPA to each head to help soften the threadlock.

If this part doesn't function as described (unlikely, but....), I'll show you how to dismantle it.

Only if the above functions correctly.

If they don't, look here - note that there is only one correct location for the actuating boss.

Refer back to step 4 for guidance if necessary.

Make sure this is as described.

To refit the mount, set aperture to f22, ensure button is set to auto, depress button and refit mount, keeping button depressed until screw holes line up. Still keeping button depressed, refit screws - if you fit two diagonally and then tighten them, you can release the button and check the aperture operation again before you fit the last two.

HTH

Katastrofo · Expire: 2013-11-19

Wow, Bob, this is one great go-by, and close-captioned for the brain-impaired! I'll let you know how it turns out!

Thanks very much! Smile

Bill

Katastrofo · Expire: 2013-11-19

OK, Bob, no problem getting the mount off. Aperture blades have OIL on
them and toggling the flange back and forth is possible, but sluggish. But
blades do open and close. Flange should correspond with arm on shutter
button right? Got interrupted right in the middle of removing the mount.

Bill

Attila · Expire: 2025-11-18

Wow! How lucky you Bill! Very nice guide Bob!

bob955i · Joined: 15 Apr 2007 Posts: 2495

Yes - the arm in #2 bears directly on the flange in #3 so when you push the lens button, the arm then pushes on the flange and thus closes the aperture - the arm also slides up and down the flange depending on focus.

If the blades have oil on them, you'll need to remove it all.

The aperture operation of these lenses tend to all be similar but the construction isn't always - as I don't have this type of Biometar, I can't advise you on how to proceed to access the blades without seeing the lens itself.

What I can say is that if you can't remove the blades as an assembly, you'll have to remove the elements so you can flush out the oil - I don't recommend you dismantle the blades themselves to clean them.

Katastrofo · Expire: 2013-11-19

Bob, will post pics tomorrow, thanks for the help so far. I think this is
salvageable if I can remove the thick grungy oil from the blades, pretty
much has immobized it. I think I will have a talk with the seller, too. The
bad part is I already posted positive feedback (he posted positive feedback
to me as soon as I paid for the item). He has 100% feedback rating, but
looking at the listing, blades are not nice and snappy, no, not.

bob955i · Joined: 15 Apr 2007 Posts: 2495

Bill - read my post above again as I've edited it after your post above - it explains how the aperture mechanics function.

You might be able to send it back - what you've done so far hasn't made it any worse and to be honest, to sort it I think you're going to have to strip the lens down.

Just don't tell him you opened it. Wink

Katastrofo · Expire: 2013-11-19

Thanks, Bob, I'll let you know how my talk goes with the seller. So removing
the glass elements is something I shouldn't think of contemplating? Just has
6 blades to the aperture.

bob955i · Joined: 15 Apr 2007 Posts: 2495

No - removing the glass should be straightforward enough - it's the aperture blades themselves that you have to be really careful with.

If you remove them, you'll have to refit and re-interleave them without bending them in the process - it's not difficult, but as they're so thin, it's very fiddly and needs a steady hand.

Better if you can flush them out in situ with the glass out so you don't damage it.

Even though there's *only* six.... Wink

Then again, if you've worked on the shutters and apertures of some of your old folders, this may be a piece of cake for you and I could be talking bollox. Laughing

Katastrofo · Expire: 2013-11-19

I've only worked on one folder, but have worked on some rather fussy
and intricate woodwiind instruments. Got lots of tools, but spanner wrenches
are a little scarce. I'm using a very nicely made German long needlenose
pliers (smooth-jawed) for an impromptu spanner wrench.

luisalegria · Expire: 2018-01-18

On spanners and alternatives -

I usually put the item on a vice (CAREFULLY ! wrapped in rags, and don't squeeze) and use two small screwdrivers, one in each hand to rotate the retaining rings.

Usually the front lenses aren't difficult. The rear ones may require disassemby of mechanisms to get at all of them.

bob955i · Joined: 15 Apr 2007 Posts: 2495

Use surgical gloves too for added grip - that's how I remove front trim rings using two fingers and a thumb. I also apply a few drops of IPA to the filter threads, taking care not to get it on the glass, and swill it round as it helps break any seal.

For an impromptu lens spanner, grind the points off a compass and use that.... Wink

All carefully though as Luis says. Cool

Katastrofo · Expire: 2013-11-19

Thanks Luis and Bob, for the tips! I still haven't heard back from the
seller. I put the lens back together, no biggie, just 4 screws.

Bill

Katastrofo · Expire: 2013-11-19

Hummm, decisions, decisions, he's offering full refund.

Katastrofo · Expire: 2013-11-19

Will be getting full refund and he will let me know if his repairman can fix
it, or so he says. Bob's go-by is forum gold and should be placed somewhere
safe.

Bill