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clockwork247
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 79
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 3:42 am Post subject: |
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clockwork247 wrote:
StrangeLoop wrote: |
The NEX 7 also lacks stabilization which is what I plan on buying. Good point on the A7 price dropping but it still probably won't compare to the low price of a used NEX 7. The lowest price I've seen a used A7 go for is ~1200, vs 4-500 for a used NEX 7. I really don't want to wait another year before buying a camera, but maybe I'll upgrade once the A7 drops in price enough. I guess it doesn't really make sense to buy a speed booster then, given the price. Maybe a Lens Turbo II will be good enough? even ~$650 total for a NEX 7 + Lens Turbo II is a pretty great price for having a very capable full frame analogue mirrorless camera.
My goal is, as stated, image quality on a budget. MF primes seem to be the easiest path to that destination from my understanding. Not that I'd be vehemently against an AF lens but I do prefer manual everything. I'm not a fan of the cheap focusing rings on most AF lenses I've tried.
With a focal reducer, I'm thinking I can basically spend less than $200 to essentially double the focal lengths I have available. Plus I'm getting the benefit of full frame equivalence. Compare that to the price of even a garbage kit lens, and the Lens Turbo starts to sound like a pretty decent purchase. |
if you're going for APS-C i would go with the NEX 6 instead of 7, it's cheaper and possibly better IMO.
At the same time, I don't trust focal reducer... it seems like there's a lot of "compromised"... something that will always be in the back of your mind. I'm willing to bet the A7 will hit the 800 dollar mark next year, Sony camera prices drop like rocks, it's not only sony, we're seeing camera bodies dropping prices quicker than ever before because of the amount of bodies that are getting pump out by everyone.
You can get an NEX 6 for 300 bucks (body only), play with MF lens and then upgrade to an A7. I've used both before, the A7 is a much better camera than the NEX 6 both in IQ and feel, it's more solid and feels nicer in the hand. I wouldn't touch the focal reducer, too much problem and mount specific, and then adding glass between the sensor and those legacy lens seems like a pretty bad idea. |
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RAART
Joined: 10 Oct 2012 Posts: 499 Location: Oakville, ON, Canada
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 8:34 am Post subject: |
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RAART wrote:
Some suggestions that it might give you what you are looking for...
Konica 28mm 3.5 or Olympus
Canon FDn 50mm 1.4 or FD
Konica 135mm 3.2 or Mamiya Sekor Auto 2.8 (M42)
That's what comes to my mind right away... I never compared those to newer lenses but they will give you quality at low price. I really like Konica Hexanon lenses line and will not part with them even I can not use them on my Pentax bodies. At some point I will replace my old PL1 for Sony but until then no use for some great manual glass but I still enjoy all M42 lenses currently.
Have fun! _________________
Camera: Pentax K3
FOR SALE:
Do you have Pentax-A or F or FA primes and like to trade?
Here is the list what I have to trade/sale:
Primes: - Kiron 28mm f2 (C/Y); Vivitar 28mm f2.5 Auto (FD); Minolta MD 50mm f2 (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 35mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 135mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3);
Zoom Lenses:
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dnas
Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 488 Location: Japan
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 11:43 pm Post subject: |
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dnas wrote:
There are quite a few options without stabilizer.
For APS-C my suggestion is NEX & Canon M. Canon M is underrated, and works well with MF lenses. You also have the option of mounting Canon EF lenses via a Canon electronic adapter (or 3rd party equivalent) which is quite cheap.
For NEX or A7, again you can use a Sony electronic adapter. The LEA4 adapter has full phase detection AF, and while not cheap, it allows you to use all of the Sony AF lenses, and MOST of the Minolta AF lenses.
So far as MF lenses go, I suggest for good, cheap lenses:
- Canon nFD 50mm F1.4 or the Canon FD 50mm F1.4 ssc
- Minolta MD 50mm F3.5 Macro
- Canon FD 100mm F4 Macro
- Minolta MD 135mm F2.8
- Minolta MC 200mm F3.5
And not so cheap:
- Nikon AI-s 105mm F2.5
- Canon FD 400mm F4.5 ssc
- Canon nFD 200mm F2.8 or Canon FD 200mm F2.8 ssc
- Nikon AI-s 35mm F2
- Minolta MD 100mm F4 Macro
- Minolta MD 85mm F2
- Canon nFD 20mm F2.8
For NEX or A7 AF with LEA4 adapter:
- Minolta AF 24mm F2.8
- Minolta AF 50mm F1.4
Cheap zooms:
- Minolta AF 24-85mm
- Minolta AF 28-105mm |
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secludedsea
Joined: 01 Oct 2014 Posts: 82 Location: Adelaide, Australia
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 10:39 am Post subject: |
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secludedsea wrote:
Modern kit zooms benefit from modern optical designs. They are, in general, far better than just about any cheapo MF lens. There are plenty of top quality old MF lenses, but be prepared to pay for them. They are not dirt cheap anymore. As for a focal recucer: Putting glass of any sort, be it a reducer, a filter or teleconverter, in front of or behind your nice glass will degrade your image quality. You can go out and buy a great quaslity Flektogon, for example, and appreciate the character of the lens. But stick a piece of glass behind it witht a focal reducer and you've just lost a lot of that character in compromised glass!
You don't need Full Frame to get the best out of glass by the way. In fact, on a crop sensor you'll be using the very best part of most old lenses anyway! On my Olympus Pen, I can use a Helios and always use the best part of the glass due to the sensor size. I don't see the fuzzy corners. Similar on APS-C.
So, you want image quality from MF glass? Stick with a crop sensor camera. Sure, the wide end is compromised, but photography is about compromises too. You can't have everything.
I like MF lenses for characater, ergonomics and just for something different and fun. If you want great image quality without blowing the bank, stick to modern AF glass. Modern glass benefits from decades of optical design and science; even the kit zooms. I don't know about Canon, but Nikon modern cheap glass is preatty fantastic in terms of quality. Just how much pixel peeping do you want to do and how big do you want to print?
These are all important questions to know the answers to if you want a strategy. |
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SonicScot
Joined: 01 Dec 2011 Posts: 2698 Location: Scottish Highlands
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Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 1:00 pm Post subject: |
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SonicScot wrote:
Nordentro wrote: |
Sharpness is always a factor, but I think the majority of the members on this forum use MF lenses for their character, rendering and bokeh which in most cases are different from modern lenses. |
+1,000,000 _________________ Gary
Currently active gear....
Sony a7
E-M1 Mkll
Rubinar 1000/10 + 2x matched extender
Tamron 500/8 55BB
Sigma 100-300/4
Vivitar Series 1.... 200/3, 70-210/3.5 (V1 by Kiron), 135/2.3, 105/2.5 macro, 90/2.5 macro (Bokina), 90-180/4.5 Flat Field Macro, 28-90mm f/2.8-3.5
Carl Zeiss.... 180/2.8, 135/3.5, 85/1.4, 35/2.4 Flektagon, 21/2.8 Distagon
Nikon.... 55/3.5 micro, 50/1.2
Elicar 90/2.5 V-HQ Macro
Zhongyi Speedmaster 85/1.2
Jupiter-9 85/2
Helios.... 58/2 44-3
Hartblei 45/3.5 Super-Rotator TS-PC
Zenitar 16/2.8 fisheye
Samyang 8/3.5 fisheye
Nodal Ninja 4, Neewer leveling tripod base
Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/gazsus/ Website http://garianphotography.co.uk/ |
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Newfie
Joined: 04 Mar 2014 Posts: 242 Location: Austin, Texas
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Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 4:58 pm Post subject: |
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Newfie wrote:
SonicScot wrote: |
Nordentro wrote: |
Sharpness is always a factor, but I think the majority of the members on this forum use MF lenses for their character, rendering and bokeh which in most cases are different from modern lenses. |
+1,000,000 |
Lars has said it right, I have looked at thousands of pictures from both MF lenses and modern lenses.
I will pick the MF pic from a good MF lens every time.
Regards,
Gavin _________________ Photography - What a ride
Accura Supertel 135/2.8 PRESET ,Soligor 135mm/ f2.8 Preset, Soligor 135mm/f3.5 Preset (Tokina) Soligor 135mm/2.8 Preset (Tameron) Super Lentar 35mm/ f2,8 Preset (Tokina) Auto Chinon 35/ f2.8, Ensinor 24mm/ f2.8, Ensinor 135mm/ f2.8, Helios 40-2 85mm/ f 1.5, Helios 44-6 58mm/ f2.0, Pentacon 50mm/ f1.8, Spiratone 28mm/3.5, Spiratone 105mm/ 2.5, Vivitar Series 1 70-210 (Kiron) , SMC Tak 55mm/1.8, Cimko 28mm/ f2.8 Macro, Accura Supertel 105mm/ f2.4, Sun 38-90/ f3.5 Y/S Zoom, , Soligor 35-105/ f 3.5 Zoom (Tokina) , Access 28-70 P-MC / f2.8-4.2, , , Paragon 11 28mm / f2.8 Macro, Aetna Rokunar 28mm / f2.8 Macro |
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