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walter g
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 20 Feb 2010 Posts: 2463 Location: NC, USA
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 2:41 am Post subject: Schneider Kreuznach Retina Longar Xenon C 80mm f4 |
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walter g wrote:
I just bought this on the Bay.I really know nothing about it. What I read when I looked it up was this was a Kodak C bayonet mount.
Any info at all would be helpfull. Is there a way to mount it on my Canon EOS 10D?
Here is a link to the auction.
Click here to see on Ebay _________________
Main cameras
Panasonic G5,Nikon J1,Pentax Q10,Sony Nex 6
Minolta MC W SI 2.5/28, MD 2.8/28, MC W SG 3.5/28, MC Celtic 3.5/28, MC W HG 2.8/35, MD Celtic 2.8/35, QE 4/35, Rokkor X 2/45, MC Rokkor X PG 1.4/50, MC Rokkor X PG 1.7/50, MD Rokkor X 1.7/50, MD 2/50, MC Rokkor PF 1.7/55, MC Rokkor PF 1.9/55, Auto Tele Rokkor PG 2.8/135, MC Tele Rokkor QD 3.5/135, TC 4/135, MC Celtic 4/200, MC Tele Rokkor PE 4.5/200
MD 28-70 f3.5-4.8, MD Macro 35-70 f3.5, Md 70-210 f4, MD Rokkor X 75-200 f4.5, MD 100-200 f5.6
Nikon Nikkor 4/20, O Auto 2/35, S Auto 1.4/50..... Miranda Auto 2.8/28, Auto 2.8/35, Auto 1.4/50, Auto EC 1.4/50, Auto 1.8/50, Auto EC 1.8/50,Auto 1.9/50, Auto 3.5/135
Various Soligor,Sun,Fujita,Komura,Spitatone, etc. Lenses
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iangreenhalgh1
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 2:53 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
There are two varieties of interchangeable Retina lens.
The first type is similar to the Contaflex and the rear element is fixed in the body. The second type is the Deckel mount, those oens can be adapted to most digital cameras.
If you have the first type then I think it's useless. Maybe you could pick up a broken Retina body, remove the rear element and remount it with the rest of the lens? Doesn't sound like an easy task though.
I tried to do the same thing with a broken Contaflex Prima as I have a lovely 80mm Pantar to fit it.
The rear element is set in a metal disk, easy to remove it, just removed three screws, however, after I remounted it onto the EOS I couldn't get any kind of sharp image from it at all so it's been put on the back burner to return too at a later date. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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walter g
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 20 Feb 2010 Posts: 2463 Location: NC, USA
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 3:55 am Post subject: |
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walter g wrote:
Thanks. It's the first type. I checked multiple Kodak sites before I bid on the lens, and not one of them listed this as part of a lens, but your right it is.
If I had researched the camera it fits I would of known that.
So it's totally useless to me. I will resell it as soon as I get it.
Edit. By what I'm reading this lens fits the Kodak Retina IIIc only and nothing else.
. _________________
Main cameras
Panasonic G5,Nikon J1,Pentax Q10,Sony Nex 6
Minolta MC W SI 2.5/28, MD 2.8/28, MC W SG 3.5/28, MC Celtic 3.5/28, MC W HG 2.8/35, MD Celtic 2.8/35, QE 4/35, Rokkor X 2/45, MC Rokkor X PG 1.4/50, MC Rokkor X PG 1.7/50, MD Rokkor X 1.7/50, MD 2/50, MC Rokkor PF 1.7/55, MC Rokkor PF 1.9/55, Auto Tele Rokkor PG 2.8/135, MC Tele Rokkor QD 3.5/135, TC 4/135, MC Celtic 4/200, MC Tele Rokkor PE 4.5/200
MD 28-70 f3.5-4.8, MD Macro 35-70 f3.5, Md 70-210 f4, MD Rokkor X 75-200 f4.5, MD 100-200 f5.6
Nikon Nikkor 4/20, O Auto 2/35, S Auto 1.4/50..... Miranda Auto 2.8/28, Auto 2.8/35, Auto 1.4/50, Auto EC 1.4/50, Auto 1.8/50, Auto EC 1.8/50,Auto 1.9/50, Auto 3.5/135
Various Soligor,Sun,Fujita,Komura,Spitatone, etc. Lenses
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towermax
Joined: 26 Jun 2009 Posts: 8
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 5:06 am Post subject: |
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towermax wrote:
walter g wrote: |
.
By what I'm reading this lens fits the Kodak Retina IIIc only and nothing else. |
It fits the Retina IIc, IIC, IIIc, and IIIC.
But that's all . . . |
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walter g
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 20 Feb 2010 Posts: 2463 Location: NC, USA
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 5:32 am Post subject: |
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walter g wrote:
towermax wrote: |
walter g wrote: |
.
By what I'm reading this lens fits the Kodak Retina IIIc only and nothing else. |
It fits the Retina IIc, IIC, IIIc, and IIIC.
But that's all . . . |
Thank You. _________________
Main cameras
Panasonic G5,Nikon J1,Pentax Q10,Sony Nex 6
Minolta MC W SI 2.5/28, MD 2.8/28, MC W SG 3.5/28, MC Celtic 3.5/28, MC W HG 2.8/35, MD Celtic 2.8/35, QE 4/35, Rokkor X 2/45, MC Rokkor X PG 1.4/50, MC Rokkor X PG 1.7/50, MD Rokkor X 1.7/50, MD 2/50, MC Rokkor PF 1.7/55, MC Rokkor PF 1.9/55, Auto Tele Rokkor PG 2.8/135, MC Tele Rokkor QD 3.5/135, TC 4/135, MC Celtic 4/200, MC Tele Rokkor PE 4.5/200
MD 28-70 f3.5-4.8, MD Macro 35-70 f3.5, Md 70-210 f4, MD Rokkor X 75-200 f4.5, MD 100-200 f5.6
Nikon Nikkor 4/20, O Auto 2/35, S Auto 1.4/50..... Miranda Auto 2.8/28, Auto 2.8/35, Auto 1.4/50, Auto EC 1.4/50, Auto 1.8/50, Auto EC 1.8/50,Auto 1.9/50, Auto 3.5/135
Various Soligor,Sun,Fujita,Komura,Spitatone, etc. Lenses
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IAZA
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 16 Apr 2010 Posts: 2587 Location: Indonesia
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 4:53 pm Post subject: |
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IAZA wrote:
iangreenhalgh1 wrote: |
There are two varieties of interchangeable Retina lens.
The first type is similar to the Contaflex and the rear element is fixed in the body. The second type is the Deckel mount, those oens can be adapted to most digital cameras.
If you have the first type then I think it's useless. Maybe you could pick up a broken Retina body, remove the rear element and remount it with the rest of the lens? Doesn't sound like an easy task though.
I tried to do the same thing with a broken Contaflex Prima as I have a lovely 80mm Pantar to fit it.
The rear element is set in a metal disk, easy to remove it, just removed three screws, however, after I remounted it onto the EOS I couldn't get any kind of sharp image from it at all so it's been put on the back burner to return too at a later date. |
thanks for information, usefull _________________ nex5, Olympus EPM1, yashica half 14, Canon eos 650 want to see samples of mine? please click My lenses
and My gallery
~Suat~ |
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martyn_bannister
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 23 May 2010 Posts: 1151
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Posted: Mon Jun 20, 2011 5:32 pm Post subject: |
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martyn_bannister wrote:
You beat me to it
Look forward to some samples....... |
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walter g
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 20 Feb 2010 Posts: 2463 Location: NC, USA
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Posted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 4:48 am Post subject: |
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walter g wrote:
Got the lens today and held it up to the light, and the second element down is covered with 85% + fungus. ![Crying or Very sad](images/smiles/icon_cry.gif) _________________
Main cameras
Panasonic G5,Nikon J1,Pentax Q10,Sony Nex 6
Minolta MC W SI 2.5/28, MD 2.8/28, MC W SG 3.5/28, MC Celtic 3.5/28, MC W HG 2.8/35, MD Celtic 2.8/35, QE 4/35, Rokkor X 2/45, MC Rokkor X PG 1.4/50, MC Rokkor X PG 1.7/50, MD Rokkor X 1.7/50, MD 2/50, MC Rokkor PF 1.7/55, MC Rokkor PF 1.9/55, Auto Tele Rokkor PG 2.8/135, MC Tele Rokkor QD 3.5/135, TC 4/135, MC Celtic 4/200, MC Tele Rokkor PE 4.5/200
MD 28-70 f3.5-4.8, MD Macro 35-70 f3.5, Md 70-210 f4, MD Rokkor X 75-200 f4.5, MD 100-200 f5.6
Nikon Nikkor 4/20, O Auto 2/35, S Auto 1.4/50..... Miranda Auto 2.8/28, Auto 2.8/35, Auto 1.4/50, Auto EC 1.4/50, Auto 1.8/50, Auto EC 1.8/50,Auto 1.9/50, Auto 3.5/135
Various Soligor,Sun,Fujita,Komura,Spitatone, etc. Lenses
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iangreenhalgh1
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 5:45 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Sorry to hear that.
I have the same problem with a very nice Enna 150mm projector lens I just got.
Soaked it overnight in 99% ISO and it has killed all the fungus on the outer elements, now just a tiny bit on the edge on the inner element, hoping that little bit won't affect the image as the set screws holding the body together are the tiniest I have ever seen. The lens looks very clear and bright now, it was horrible before, really full of fungus. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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walter g
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 20 Feb 2010 Posts: 2463 Location: NC, USA
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Posted: Sat Jun 25, 2011 7:05 am Post subject: |
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walter g wrote:
Thanks. That wasn't even the worse part. The front element on the backside is covered with pin point size fungus.
I sent a message to the seller desribing the condition of the lens.I also did a contrast test using my Canon 10D. Very bad. ![Sad](images/smiles/icon_sad.gif) _________________
Main cameras
Panasonic G5,Nikon J1,Pentax Q10,Sony Nex 6
Minolta MC W SI 2.5/28, MD 2.8/28, MC W SG 3.5/28, MC Celtic 3.5/28, MC W HG 2.8/35, MD Celtic 2.8/35, QE 4/35, Rokkor X 2/45, MC Rokkor X PG 1.4/50, MC Rokkor X PG 1.7/50, MD Rokkor X 1.7/50, MD 2/50, MC Rokkor PF 1.7/55, MC Rokkor PF 1.9/55, Auto Tele Rokkor PG 2.8/135, MC Tele Rokkor QD 3.5/135, TC 4/135, MC Celtic 4/200, MC Tele Rokkor PE 4.5/200
MD 28-70 f3.5-4.8, MD Macro 35-70 f3.5, Md 70-210 f4, MD Rokkor X 75-200 f4.5, MD 100-200 f5.6
Nikon Nikkor 4/20, O Auto 2/35, S Auto 1.4/50..... Miranda Auto 2.8/28, Auto 2.8/35, Auto 1.4/50, Auto EC 1.4/50, Auto 1.8/50, Auto EC 1.8/50,Auto 1.9/50, Auto 3.5/135
Various Soligor,Sun,Fujita,Komura,Spitatone, etc. Lenses
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walter g
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 20 Feb 2010 Posts: 2463 Location: NC, USA
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Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 1:03 am Post subject: |
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walter g wrote:
Really nice guy. He gave me a full refund and told me to keep the lens.
I tried it on my 10D with 21mm of tubes. I'm sure i was getting a light leak. So I will try it again tomorrow with a better setup.
Will this lens work on a DSLR? 1St image no PP. 2nd with a few tweaks including contrast adjust. I will reserve my judgement until I can do more testing, but I'm leaning heavily towards no. Comments are Welcome.
![](http://forum.mflenses.com/userpix/20116/2562_Schneider_80mm_f4_C1_S1_Large_1.jpg) _________________
Main cameras
Panasonic G5,Nikon J1,Pentax Q10,Sony Nex 6
Minolta MC W SI 2.5/28, MD 2.8/28, MC W SG 3.5/28, MC Celtic 3.5/28, MC W HG 2.8/35, MD Celtic 2.8/35, QE 4/35, Rokkor X 2/45, MC Rokkor X PG 1.4/50, MC Rokkor X PG 1.7/50, MD Rokkor X 1.7/50, MD 2/50, MC Rokkor PF 1.7/55, MC Rokkor PF 1.9/55, Auto Tele Rokkor PG 2.8/135, MC Tele Rokkor QD 3.5/135, TC 4/135, MC Celtic 4/200, MC Tele Rokkor PE 4.5/200
MD 28-70 f3.5-4.8, MD Macro 35-70 f3.5, Md 70-210 f4, MD Rokkor X 75-200 f4.5, MD 100-200 f5.6
Nikon Nikkor 4/20, O Auto 2/35, S Auto 1.4/50..... Miranda Auto 2.8/28, Auto 2.8/35, Auto 1.4/50, Auto EC 1.4/50, Auto 1.8/50, Auto EC 1.8/50,Auto 1.9/50, Auto 3.5/135
Various Soligor,Sun,Fujita,Komura,Spitatone, etc. Lenses
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iangreenhalgh1
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 1:56 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
I doubt you will ever get anything sharp from it. The back element is missing, it is mounted in the camera body this lens fits.
If you should see a broken retina reflex c around sometime you could grab it, remove the disk holding the rear element and mount it onto the back of the lens.
No idea what the register would then be, probably about 40mm. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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walter g
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 20 Feb 2010 Posts: 2463 Location: NC, USA
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Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 3:53 am Post subject: |
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walter g wrote:
iangreenhalgh1 wrote: |
I doubt you will ever get anything sharp from it. The back element is missing, it is mounted in the camera body this lens fits.
If you should see a broken retina reflex c around sometime you could grab it, remove the disk holding the rear element and mount it onto the back of the lens.
No idea what the register would then be, probably about 40mm. |
Thank You. I had to give it a try. I will keep an eye out for a parts camera. I thought it might be even worse then that with no back element,
just kinda makes you wonder how good it would be if I had the missing element. _________________
Main cameras
Panasonic G5,Nikon J1,Pentax Q10,Sony Nex 6
Minolta MC W SI 2.5/28, MD 2.8/28, MC W SG 3.5/28, MC Celtic 3.5/28, MC W HG 2.8/35, MD Celtic 2.8/35, QE 4/35, Rokkor X 2/45, MC Rokkor X PG 1.4/50, MC Rokkor X PG 1.7/50, MD Rokkor X 1.7/50, MD 2/50, MC Rokkor PF 1.7/55, MC Rokkor PF 1.9/55, Auto Tele Rokkor PG 2.8/135, MC Tele Rokkor QD 3.5/135, TC 4/135, MC Celtic 4/200, MC Tele Rokkor PE 4.5/200
MD 28-70 f3.5-4.8, MD Macro 35-70 f3.5, Md 70-210 f4, MD Rokkor X 75-200 f4.5, MD 100-200 f5.6
Nikon Nikkor 4/20, O Auto 2/35, S Auto 1.4/50..... Miranda Auto 2.8/28, Auto 2.8/35, Auto 1.4/50, Auto EC 1.4/50, Auto 1.8/50, Auto EC 1.8/50,Auto 1.9/50, Auto 3.5/135
Various Soligor,Sun,Fujita,Komura,Spitatone, etc. Lenses
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RioRico
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 12 Mar 2010 Posts: 1120 Location: California or Guatemala or somewhere
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Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 5:52 am Post subject: |
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RioRico wrote:
Knowing no better at the time (ah, another focking learning experience!) I bought a Schneider Retina-Curtar-Xenar C 35/4 for US$10 shipped. I was excited! Then I learned about Retina C lenses. Damn. It was too cheap for other options, so I decided to adapt it to my Pentax K20D.
I rely on cheap PK macro tube sets for many adaptation problems. A section has inner diameter ~57mm. I glued the thinnest section (#1, ~7mm) around the lens base. This section will just fit around the mount on my PK bellows, which have a minimum extension of 35mm. Max focus is ~3.5m. If I add a PK mount section, max focus is only ~1m. I could probably find a tube combination that will approach infinity focus.
Without the rear element, I estimate effective focal length is ~105mm, with a 'register' of ~75mm. Exit pupil diameter is ~9mm so it's effectively ~f/12. Focus confirmation is difficult on the K20D with that little light. But if I shoot a bright subject with the exposure at -2EV, I get a usable image. I can't really tell how sharp it is. (It's night now and I'm shooting in the bathroom; I'll need to repeat this test in daylight.)
I don't really much need a 100/11 no-iris lens. What to do?
1) Dissolve the glue (contact cement), try to sell it, or wait till it's worth something.
2) Play with spare bits of glass, like what I removed from TC's, or other odd elements lying about, and try to kludge a working lens. I have spare iris assemblies that could support this.
3) Throw it in a 'parts' bin.
So, that is what I think I have learned about this 35/4 lens. Without the rear element, focal length and aperture ar 3x specifications. Camera metering is off by +2EV. And the image is not terrible. I hope this of some use to you. Good luck! _________________ Too many film+digi cams+lenses, oh my -- Pentax K20D, K-1000, M42s, more
The simple truth is this: There are no neutral photographs. --F-Stop Fitzgerald |
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martyn_bannister
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 23 May 2010 Posts: 1151
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Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 6:54 am Post subject: |
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martyn_bannister wrote:
I'd go with #3 and #2
After all, what's the parts bin for, if nto for cludging stuff together ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) |
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std
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 09 Feb 2010 Posts: 1826 Location: Bulgaria
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Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 7:21 am Post subject: |
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std wrote:
Heh i did the opposite.
I've got the camera first (an Retina Reflex) with Rodenstock 2/50 - a real beauty.
Do you know if such Longar Xenon will work on it?
btw you will not believe how big is the Rodenstock heligon - it has a size of those small 30mm filters ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) _________________ Stefan
My lens list:
SLR MD: Rokkor 1,7/50 Exakta: Kilfitt-Makro-Kilar E 3.5/4cm; CZJ 2/50 Pancolar;M42: CZJ 2.8/50 Tessar; Mir-1B 2.8/37; Jupiter-9 2/85 T-mount: Tamron 5.9/200; Tamron 6.9/300; Tamron 7.5/400 C-mount: Cosmicar 1.8/50 Y/S: Sun 3.5/38-90, Sun 4/70-210 RF Contax RF: Jupiter-8 2/50; Contax G:CZ 2,8/21 Biogon T; CZ 2,8/28 Biogon T; CZ 2/35 Planar T; CZ 2/45 Planar T; CZ 2,8/90 Sonnar T |
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std
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 09 Feb 2010 Posts: 1826 Location: Bulgaria
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Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 3:29 pm Post subject: |
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std wrote:
Damn, it turns that the wide(35mm) and tele (80mm) Retina C lenses made from Schnider or Rodenstock are compatible only with the body that has normal lens made from the same manufacturer.
So now I will need to find a wide and tele from Rodenstock. (those are quite rare btw) _________________ Stefan
My lens list:
SLR MD: Rokkor 1,7/50 Exakta: Kilfitt-Makro-Kilar E 3.5/4cm; CZJ 2/50 Pancolar;M42: CZJ 2.8/50 Tessar; Mir-1B 2.8/37; Jupiter-9 2/85 T-mount: Tamron 5.9/200; Tamron 6.9/300; Tamron 7.5/400 C-mount: Cosmicar 1.8/50 Y/S: Sun 3.5/38-90, Sun 4/70-210 RF Contax RF: Jupiter-8 2/50; Contax G:CZ 2,8/21 Biogon T; CZ 2,8/28 Biogon T; CZ 2/35 Planar T; CZ 2/45 Planar T; CZ 2,8/90 Sonnar T |
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iangreenhalgh1
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 4:46 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Yes, the schnedier lenses have to go on schneider bodies and the rodenstocks have to go on rodenstock bodies.
I am pretty sure the Contaflex rear element is the same as the rodenstock one in the retinas because the Pantar type Contaflex lenses, while badged Zeiss were made by Rodenstock. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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RioRico
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 12 Mar 2010 Posts: 1120 Location: California or Guatemala or somewhere
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Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 9:36 pm Post subject: |
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RioRico wrote:
Follow-up: I shot the Schneider Retina C 35/8 in daylight, and with flash. The verdict: It's not real sharp without the rear element. To the parts bin, then. _________________ Too many film+digi cams+lenses, oh my -- Pentax K20D, K-1000, M42s, more
The simple truth is this: There are no neutral photographs. --F-Stop Fitzgerald |
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iangreenhalgh1
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2011 3:42 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
I have the rear element from a Contaflex Prima and 45mm and 85mm Pantars to fit it, badged ZI but made by Rodenstock.
If I do manage to get em working on my EOS I'll let you know how I did it. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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somflor
Joined: 15 Jun 2021 Posts: 4
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Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2021 10:13 pm Post subject: |
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somflor wrote:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/tags/longarxenon |
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16:9
![Level 2 Level 2](rating2.gif) Joined: 04 Apr 2014 Posts: 304 Location: UK
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Posted: Wed Nov 08, 2023 4:01 pm Post subject: |
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16:9 wrote:
I don't think it's quite as much of a turkey as the thread suggests. The flickr album above shows its potential better, but a few grab shots in the garden on a very overcast day demonstrate it's useable as an 'effects' lens, like a cheap projector optic but with smooth bokeh. Only contrast/saturation adjusted - Lumix S1R: full frame, no crop. Bodge-mounted, a little fungus and haze.
![](http://forum.mflenses.com/userpix/202311/8029__1028129lr_1.jpg) _________________ If it ain't broke, break it. |
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