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pavko
 Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 216 Location: PL
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Posted: Wed May 29, 2013 9:55 am Post subject: Re: Rokkor 200mm f3.5 |
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pavko wrote:
| philslizzy wrote: |
| In all I'm very impressed with the quality of this lens but handling is a pain, its heavy and as a result not easy to focus fast. |
Have you checked it wide open? Is CA big problem then? I've put mine on the shelf because of that (see http://forum.mflenses.com/minolta-rokkor-qf-200-3-5-t30761.html for details). I'm wondering whether it was my copy or is it general property of that lens... |
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philslizzy
 Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4749 Location: Cheshire, England
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Posted: Wed May 29, 2013 4:16 pm Post subject: Re: Rokkor 200mm f3.5 |
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philslizzy wrote:
| pavko wrote: |
| philslizzy wrote: |
| In all I'm very impressed with the quality of this lens but handling is a pain, its heavy and as a result not easy to focus fast. |
Have you checked it wide open? Is CA big problem then? I've put mine on the shelf because of that (see http://forum.mflenses.com/minolta-rokkor-qf-200-3-5-t30761.html for details). I'm wondering whether it was my copy or is it general property of that lens... |
I spotted a little yesterday. here is the pic shrunk for the forum and a 100% crop showing a little CA. You can see the pixels at this magnification so it may not be too much problem.
Not enough to put me off it!! _________________ Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
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parabellumfoto
 Joined: 06 Apr 2013 Posts: 413 Location: Sydney, Australia
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Posted: Wed May 29, 2013 8:26 pm Post subject: |
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parabellumfoto wrote:
Looks tiny compared to the image size.
I agree it looks tiny when compared to total image size but if your making large prints it would be a worry. _________________ Minolta MC Rokkor f1.4 50mm
Minolta MD Zoom Macro 35-105mm f3.5-4.5
Nikon Nikkor 50mm F2
Nippon Kogaku Japan Nikkor-S Auto 5cm F2
Nippon Kogaku Japan Nikkor-Q Auto 135mm F2.8
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 35mm F1.8G
http://www.parabellumfoto.com/ |
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philslizzy
 Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4749 Location: Cheshire, England
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Posted: Thu May 30, 2013 4:06 pm Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
| parabellumfoto wrote: |
... if your making large prints it would be a worry. |
Thats not gonna happen soon. I use different equipment when shooting for large prints.
I understand there's a way to remove CA in photoshop, I've seen it mentioned but a tip on how to do it would be nice.
Anyone?? _________________ Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
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Dennis
Joined: 28 May 2013 Posts: 5 Location: Germany
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Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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Dennis wrote:
Use the "Lens Correction" function in the "Filter" menu, it features three sliders in the "Chromatic Aberrations" tab. _________________ Best regards,
Dennis.
http://minolta.eazypix.de |
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philslizzy
 Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4749 Location: Cheshire, England
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Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 10:34 pm Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
| Dennis wrote: |
| Use the "Lens Correction" function in the "Filter" menu, it features three sliders in the "Chromatic Aberrations" tab. |
Cheers dennis I found it but a lot was greyed out and the custom didnt seem to do anything. I'll go back to it. But some of the other stuff was interesting.
Thanks _________________ Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
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woodrim
 Joined: 14 Jan 2010 Posts: 4066 Location: Charleston
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Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 11:09 pm Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
I detailed a procedure in a post once. I'll see if I can find it before recreating. _________________ Regards,
Woodrim |
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woodrim
 Joined: 14 Jan 2010 Posts: 4066 Location: Charleston
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Posted: Tue Jun 04, 2013 11:36 pm Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
Found it.
In PS, you simply enlarge the image enough to see the CA clearly, then go to Image - Adjustments - Hue/Saturation. Then change the menu selection where it says Master to the color you're correcting, most cases blue, but sometimes magenta. If you're wrong, it will correct the selection. Then take the pointer, which is now an eyedropper tool, and click on the CA where the color is obvious. You'll then see that color come up in your swatch selection. Now take the saturation and lightness sliders and find the best reductions to correct the CA. I typically do them about equally, but you can see the change as you're doing it and will know how much to adjust. Note: don't forget to select the color from the Master, otherwise the entire image will be effected, not just the CA color/area. _________________ Regards,
Woodrim |
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philslizzy
 Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4749 Location: Cheshire, England
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Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 11:40 am Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
Ok I tried it, its not got all of the CA but I concentrated on the gloved hand. the lifebelt seems to have lost its colour too but If i use 'auto color' it (sort of) comes back.
Thanks for that useful tip. I'll look more into it. Although the CA is not that much of a problem.
 _________________ Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
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woodrim
 Joined: 14 Jan 2010 Posts: 4066 Location: Charleston
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Posted: Wed Jun 05, 2013 2:02 pm Post subject: |
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woodrim wrote:
Your offending fringe was magenta or red, so you would have selected magenta from the drop down menu and if it Photoshop recognized it as a different color, it would correct you choice when you sampled the color with the eyedropper. It is important to be selective of color in that drop down, otherwise leaving it as "Master" will change the entire picture. There are times when the same color tone will exist elsewhere in the photo as may have happened with yours. In those cases, you can isolate an area for treatment using one of the drawing tools like the "Polygonal Lasso Tool". Or you can return a color to original using the history brush. Red CA is a little harder to correct than blue. _________________ Regards,
Woodrim |
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