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William
Joined: 26 Nov 2009 Posts: 489 Location: London
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Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 9:01 pm Post subject: Pancolar M42 Stuck Focus |
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William wrote:
I have Pancolar 50 1.8 in M42 mount with a very tight focus ring, it comes off the body if rotating anti-clockwise. Does anyone who has dismantled this lens know whether I will have to completely dissasemble it to fix the problem. I am wondering if the focusing helicoid is reasonably accessible. What is used to free it if it is full of gunk as I suspect it may be? |
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ludoo
Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Posts: 1397 Location: Milan, Italy
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 10:14 pm Post subject: |
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ludoo wrote:
Zebra or later version? I have opened the Zebra, and if you take pictures along the way and don't break the aperture linkage like I did, it's pretty easy. You have to remove the collar around the lens mount and go from there. There's a thread with pictures from a few months back. _________________ My galleries
Digital: Samsung EX-1
Past Digital: Samsung NX10, Sigma SD9, Sigma SD10, SD14, DP2, Pentax *istD, Kx, Fuji S2 Pro, Canon 5D
Analog: packfilm Polaroids, 6x9 Kodak folders, Pentacon Taxona half-frame, Fujica ST605n, Walz Envoy, Olympus 35 S-II, Olympus Wide S
Past Analog: Polaroid 600se, Polaroid 110B, Canon IIF, various fixed-lens and Russian rangefinders, ...
Past Lenses: Nikkor 24/2.8, Nikkor SC 50/1.4, Nikkor 50/2, Nikkor H 85/1.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5, Nikkor Q 135/3.5, Fujinon 100/2.8, Fujinon EBC 100/2.8, Fujinon EBC 135/3.5, Fujinon EBC 200/4.5, Mamiya SX 135/2.8, CZJ Flektogon 35/2.4, CZJ Pancolar 50/1.8 zebra, CZJ Sonnar 135/3.5, ...
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William
Joined: 26 Nov 2009 Posts: 489 Location: London
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Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 10:54 pm Post subject: |
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William wrote:
It's a Zebra and apart from this issue in very good condition. I have found your thread from March but looking through that, and others, there are no photos of the helicoid that I can find. Tomorrow I will open it up and take a look. |
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ludoo
Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Posts: 1397 Location: Milan, Italy
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 10:59 pm Post subject: |
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ludoo wrote:
Once you get to the point depicted in the photo, it's easy to separate the helicoid. From the other thread
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At this point you are left with the optical group screwed inside the focus ring/helicoid. They are LH, so to unscrew them turn them clockwise. |
Before doing that, remember to set the lens at infinity and mark the relative position of the two parts, and mark them again at the approximate point where they separate from each other, or you will be in for a long series of tests.
To regrease, I use automotive white lithium grease, very cheap and available in most auto parts stores. _________________ My galleries
Digital: Samsung EX-1
Past Digital: Samsung NX10, Sigma SD9, Sigma SD10, SD14, DP2, Pentax *istD, Kx, Fuji S2 Pro, Canon 5D
Analog: packfilm Polaroids, 6x9 Kodak folders, Pentacon Taxona half-frame, Fujica ST605n, Walz Envoy, Olympus 35 S-II, Olympus Wide S
Past Analog: Polaroid 600se, Polaroid 110B, Canon IIF, various fixed-lens and Russian rangefinders, ...
Past Lenses: Nikkor 24/2.8, Nikkor SC 50/1.4, Nikkor 50/2, Nikkor H 85/1.8, Nikkor P 105/2.5, Nikkor Q 135/3.5, Fujinon 100/2.8, Fujinon EBC 100/2.8, Fujinon EBC 135/3.5, Fujinon EBC 200/4.5, Mamiya SX 135/2.8, CZJ Flektogon 35/2.4, CZJ Pancolar 50/1.8 zebra, CZJ Sonnar 135/3.5, ...
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William
Joined: 26 Nov 2009 Posts: 489 Location: London
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Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 11:23 pm Post subject: |
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William wrote:
Thanks for the pointer on marking infinity, I've come across that before when reassembling practice lenses before and it's a pain. There must be multiple Zebra types as mine is different to yours. The section with the hyperfocal markings is shallower, there is no "Made in DDR" on the barrel or the pins? sticking out on the bottom. |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6943 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 12:51 pm Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
If you're fine with taking the lens apart, all well and good. I prefer to try some lighter fluid 1st and see if this cures the problem. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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William
Joined: 26 Nov 2009 Posts: 489 Location: London
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Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 1:00 pm Post subject: |
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William wrote:
How do you get the lighter fluid there without opening it? There's maybe 1 or 2mm of clearance under the focus ring. |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6943 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 1:13 pm Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
Yup, just pour a few drops inside the focus ring and it will find its way in, work the focus back and forth. You may have to do this a few times. Then I mix approx 1:5 oil to lighter fluid and use this for a more permanent fix.
Probably not the right thing to do, but I've fixed a few lenses and cameras like this and destroyed a by few opening them. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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William
Joined: 26 Nov 2009 Posts: 489 Location: London
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Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 4:46 pm Post subject: |
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William wrote:
I tried with Ronsonol lighter fluid on both the Pancolar and a Pentacon 50mm, the Pentacon is now very usable but the Pancolar is still stiff. When I can I will try some Zippo fluid as it is cleaner and leaves behind less residue. Have just bought a £10 Tessar with rough focusing to try disassembling and relubing with lithium grease. If that goes well I will try it with the Pancolar. |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6943 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
I use Zippo with a few drops of 3 in 1 oil. Glad it worked on one. Give it a few goes as I have had to do the same a few times before it fixes them. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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enzodm
Joined: 11 Sep 2010 Posts: 350 Location: Italy
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Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 7:26 am Post subject: |
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enzodm wrote:
I have a Triotar with stiff focus; I thought -without doing it- at letting some fluid penetrating the tight room towards helicoid to soften it, but never found this possibility described (so I never done). This thread is convincing me, I'll try (unless there is some contraindication for the Triotar). Thanks. _________________
Canon 60D, Tamron 17-50VC, Canon 55-250IS, Sigma 50-150/2.8 plus:
Wide: Mir 20/3.5, Kenlock 24/2.8, Tamron 28/2.5, Yashikor 35/2.8, Mir 37/2.8
Fifties: Voigtländer Color Ultron 50/1.8, Pentacon 50/1.8, Zenitar 50/1.9, Leica Summicron 50/2, CZJ Pancolar 50/2, CZJ Tessar 50/2.8, Industar 50/3.5 , Rikenon 55/1.4, Petri 55/1.8, Helios 58/2
In the middle: Cyclop 85/1.5, Nikon 100/2.8
135s: Tamron 135/2.5, CZJ Sonnar 135/3.5, Jupiter 135/3.5, CZJ Triotar 135/4, Tamron Twin Tele 135-225
Tele: Soligor 200/2.8, Pentax Super Takumar 200/4, Hanimex 400/6.3, Makinon 500/8
Various: Schneider-Kreuznach Componar 135/4.5, Tominon 105/4.5, Vest Pocket Kodak meniscus, Wray Supar 2"/4.5
Sony Nex 6 plus:
Industar 69 28/2.8, Fujian 35/1.7, Rokkor 50/1.4, Jupiter 50/2, Cosmicar 50/2.8, Industar-22 50/3.5, Leitz Elmar 90/4, Canon Serenar 100/4
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6943 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 11:44 am Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
The thing to remember is that the stiffness is caused by the grease drying out. The lighter fluid will also dry out rather quickly which is why I add some oil to it. I've no idea how long the `repair' will last, but I have lenses I used this treatment on working fine 12 months on. _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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