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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 724
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 Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 5:58 pm Post subject: olympur 35rc is at home. How to test it? |
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alaios wrote:
Dear all,
that is my first range camera ever and I am happy happy.
I just need some help on how to test it and understand how I shoot with it.
1. The focus mechanism has an orangish area in the center. When I move the focusing distance I see a second prism of my object.. which I guess it means that my focus is off
2. I am not sure I understand how the light meter works. When I set the camera in A mode and I press the button I can see where the needle stops, which I guess is what the auto manual found as correct exposure value. How I can use though the metering in manual mode?
3. If I understand this right this little camera gives you easily a lot of depth of field and then I can easier focus on composition moment capturing and leaving camera in auto mode.
4. I will give it a right tomorrow night at Dusseldorf. I would take a hp4 film pushed at iso 800 to allow some low early night photography
Regards
Alex
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“The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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miran
Joined: 01 Aug 2012
Posts: 1364
Location: Slovenia
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| Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 6:38 pm Post subject: |
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miran wrote:
1. When the image in the orange section coincides with the rest of the viewfinder, the lens is focused. That's how all rangefinders are focused.
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009
Posts: 7785
Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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| Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 11:24 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
https://web2.ph.utexas.edu/~yue/misc/35RC.html
I think the Olympus RD is very similar, and Butkus has the instruction book for that.
http://www.butkus.org/chinon/olympus/olympus_35rd/olympus_35rd.htm
..
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012
Posts: 4748
Location: Cheshire, England
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| Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 11:53 pm Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
A great little Camera Alex,
I put a normal 1.5v PX625A bettery in it and got great shots. I discovered later that the original battery had only 1.35v. Anyway, it worked nicely. The battery will discharge quickly and will be dead within a year, my advice is to take it out when not using it.
More about it here
https://www.cameraquest.com/olyrc.htm
And here is a manual.
http://vanveluwen.nl/eSIF/camhistory/manuals/35rc.pdf
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 724
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| Posted: Thu May 21, 2015 4:00 am Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Thanks a lot for the answers. I Guess I would need a way to engage the metering system also when I am not in auto mode.
Now it looks like I have to use the metering in auto mode and then change to the manual setting I want which takes time.
I also find bit tough to turn the aperture value. I guess these cameras are built for auto mode fun.
I will shoot my first roll tonight and I will post back
Alex
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“The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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TAo2
Joined: 09 Mar 2012
Posts: 319
Location: Scotland
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| Posted: Thu May 21, 2015 6:23 am Post subject: |
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TAo2 wrote:
Hi Alex,
The 35RC is a shutter-priority camera (not fully automatic). Choosing "A" mode, ye select the shutter speed and the camera metering then selects the appropriate aperture (based on film speed and shutter speed chosen), which'll show in the viewfinder. It's that simple.
In "Manual" - "Off", ye can choose any combination of aperture-shutter speed that ye like. Only the Aperture chosen, will show in the viewfinder. For metering, ye can use the A mode as ye say and revert tae Manual, or use a lightmeter, or "Sunny 16". The advantage of Manual is that ye don't need a battery. Ah've hardly ever used Manual on mine. ISO 400+800, usually B+W, plus an ND filter gives me outdoor and indoor shooting in "A" mode. AGFA vistaPLUS 200 works well with the 35RC.
Ilford XP2 400 with ND filter
XP2 400 - Manual - f2.8@ 1/30th.
Fuji Superia 800 - "A" mode - f4@1/125th. (ah think )
 
IMO, this camera performs best in "A" mode. Ye'll have great fun with it;it's one of my most used cameras ...  |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 724
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| Posted: Fri May 22, 2015 5:56 am Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Your last shot is just amazing. I guess the reason these cameras run in shutter priority is that their lenses allow for very deep depth of field and thus you do not care much about aperture.
These are the current problems I have (I have not loaded the film yet)
1. Hard to focus. If my subject is on light I can hardly see this orange dot in the middle and understand if I have focus or not.
2. The metering system. I am not sure when it works when not. Therre are times that blocks completely and I can not take the shots even though I am trying all different shutter speeds. Is this a defective metering system? In the camera there is also a skylight filter. I know that the metering is this small window at the lens. Can it be that the meter catches some light reflections from the filter?
3. The fire button. I just want to engange the metering but like 50% of the times I also take the shot. The workaround for that is to meter before I have not forwarded the film. But in that case I might lose some shots when my camera is not ready
That would be all for now
Alex
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“The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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TAo2
Joined: 09 Mar 2012
Posts: 319
Location: Scotland
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| Posted: Fri May 22, 2015 2:17 pm Post subject: |
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TAo2 wrote:
| alaios wrote: |
Your last shot is just amazing. I guess the reason these cameras run in shutter priority is that their lenses allow for very deep depth of field and thus you do not care much about aperture.
These are the current problems I have (I have not loaded the film yet)
1. Hard to focus. If my subject is on light I can hardly see this orange dot in the middle and understand if I have focus or not.
Always use a lenshood, remembering that it's a 42mm lens. Ah got an original very cheaply as part of a lot, they can be very expensive now though. Get a Chinese slotted screw-in type (virtually any Hong Kong dealer on eBay @ $5 inc. postage!). The orange dot is faint on mine also but never had a problem even shooting into light; it is an extremely accurate rangefinder. Ah normally have a Skylight warm-up filter on, most of the time(with the hood)
2. The metering system. I am not sure when it works when not. There are times that blocks completely and I can not take the shots even though I am trying all different shutter speeds. Is this a defective metering system? In the camera there is also a skylight filter. I know that the metering is this small window at the lens. Can it be that the meter catches some light reflections from the filter?
How fresh is the battery? This causes metering problems as it nears the end of its life, which shows as failing tae get an exposure set. Ah use the WeinCELL zinc/air, the correct voltage. There are adapters for different voltages, tae use other batteries. Many folk say the zinc/air has a very short life but ah just replaced one after 8/9 months of regular use.
Do ye mean that there's a skylight filter on the lens? As said above , get a hood. Can't think of any occasion where the filter has caused me problems
3. The fire button. I just want to engage the metering but like 50% of the times I also take the shot. The workaround for that is to meter before I have not forwarded the film. But in that case I might lose some shots when my camera is not ready
This just takes practise, Alex. Ah had the same problems at first but ye get the "feel" for the half-press eventually. Ye can even hear the difference as ye press the button. As the shutter button has a long throw, due tae the mechanical element before the electronics are engaged; the trick is tae softly and slowly press down on the button, 'til the resistance "feels " correct. Ah now use a mini soft button (again from Hong Kong) and it's made a big difference.
That would be all for now
Alex |
PS here's some links
http://www.ph.utexas.edu/~yue/misc/35RC.html
http://kenrockwell.com/olympus/35rc.htm#usage
http://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/sbc_mrb625.htm
http://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/sbc_mr9_adapter.htm
http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-134.html
There's also a lot of info here...http://www.rangefinderforum.com/modules.php?name=Jig
Original hood, soft button on shutter botton. The T20 flash from my Olympus SLR, works on the 35RC. Result!
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 724
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| Posted: Fri May 22, 2015 3:43 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Great answers. Thanks. Really a funny camera. I was training today during my train ride and unfortunately I have improved only slightly with the button think.
One think, which might be caused from battery anyway is that some times I noticed that I need to press more for the needle to move, so close where I clicked. I can buy a 1.5 volt battery tomorrow (before the 1.35 is delivered. I guess that would make my light meter slightly off but would be okay for a test roll)
I did not get at all what should I do to find this lens hood. I know that this type of thread can not be easily found in ebay these days.
Regards
Alex
P.s Last edit after my long train ride home. I have trying to load film. I am used from my minolta x-700 to rotate film few times with the back door open to see that the film is progressing as it should. With the olympus though the film was not progressing very smoothly.. I think one has to close the door first so the film gets some pressure from the door. I have closed it and I just have to hope now that it will be shot as it should..
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“The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 724
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| Posted: Fri May 29, 2015 6:46 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Hi all,
I think my camera has a semi-"broken" light meter.
I bought new batteries already ( I spent money for the expensive ones) PX625
http://www.ebay.de/itm/261356626678?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
The problem is hard to explain.
For all those tests I tried a lot when I have just took a shot without rewinding.. since I have lost many shots already....
Now there are times that gives correct readings.. compared with my light meter.
I was also pointing the exact same surface with no light changing (i.e shooting a lamp) but I also tried outdoors when it was cloudy and the clouds were not moving. I was shooting some shaded grey tiles on floor.
Lets say that it gives a correct meter at f/8 and at 1/500
I turn the shutter dial to 1/250 then sometimes I get correctly 1/16
but most of the time it will give
f/8 1/250
I change again the shutter dial to 1/125
and that would give again
f/8 1/125
This stuck at the same f/reading of whatever is the shutter speed is not permanent.. If I move to B seems to reset a bit the stuck needle but again after some time it will be stuck around the same f value for 2-3 shutter speeds. It looks like there are "regions" of 2-3 shutter speeds regions that needle is stuck (At the exactly same region...yes exact the same).
'Any idea is this is a broken light meter?
Regards
Alex
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“The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 724
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| Posted: Sat May 30, 2015 4:15 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Hi all,
any feedback for my post above? I have started a small dispute on ebay and I need your feedback to make sure that my meter is defective or not.
Regards
Alex
_________________
“The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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tb_a
Joined: 26 Jan 2010
Posts: 3678
Location: Austria
Expire: 2019-08-28
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| Posted: Sat May 30, 2015 5:59 pm Post subject: |
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tb_a wrote:
| alaios wrote: |
Hi all,
any feedback for my post above? I have started a small dispute on ebay and I need your feedback to make sure that my meter is defective or not.
Regards
Alex |
It's hard to judge from the distance. Normally such light meters inside the camera either work correctly or don't work at all. However, there are some (older) cameras which are relatively sensitive to the voltage of the batteries, i.e. if the battery is not the correct one or is somehow faulty then the light meter could eventually work somehow "crazy". I have no idea about your Olympus model and the behavior of the light meter in it. However, you are right that the EV value should always be the same if the light on the meter is the same.
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Thomas Bernardy
Manual focus lenses mainly from Minolta, Pentax, Voigtlaender, Leitz, Topcon and from Russia (too many to be listed here). |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 724
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| Posted: Sun May 31, 2015 5:51 am Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Exactly against the same surface measurements are not consistent...
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“The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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