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MANAGED!! : Separating Konica 85mm Rear Doublet...
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZoneV wrote:
From my little experience UV glue has the chamr to have a lot of time to adjust the lens to your lliking, and then you can have a relative fast curing time. This is the reason why it is so popular today, a machine can hold and adjust the lens assembly, and with a short UV flash it is glued together and can out of this machine. Probably some further UV or heat for full cure.

Canada Balsam without Xylol or such need fast adjustment, cause the lenses and glue get cold.
Canada Balsam with Xylol is slow.. You need probably a lot of patience until you can test it. But I don�t like Xylol or those other solvents used for it.
A big pro for Canada Balsam is the easy opening in case something went wrong.

http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/Delamination-Separation-Repair.html


Thank you! ZoneV. Such fantastic information. I have one further question (or concern). When i set the two lenses together, and hopefully I manage to get the aligned properly, my biggest concern is, that I won't know that the actual alignment was successful until i pop it back in the lens and test the lens. Now if its slightly misaligned, with CB, I may have another shot, but with UVE i may be stuck permanently (no pun intended). Any thoughts or suggestions?

Edit: After reading the link a few times, I am leaning towards UVE however i am still a bit concerned about getting stuck with my repair if the alignment is not perfect (which I won't know for sure until i reassemble the lens)....


PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well how precisely you think you can put them togheter? I mean what kind of adjustement will you do if you see that the image quality suffers? I never glued two lenses togheter yet, but i would do everything to do it as good as it s possible the first time. Like dry "mounting" them, building a "template" or something, like a tube of the same diameter of the two lenses and so on.

Personally i think if one decides to touch the optical part of a lens one knows chanches are the lens won t be 100 % within factory tolerances. But likely it will be very close, i think in general most people over estimate factory mechanical tolerances, just take a look on youtube how some are assembled. I prefer a lens that i can use, cleaned and lubricated more than a factory one with a stiff focusing ring. Yes probably upon close inspection wide open performance migt suffer a bit, but i was never into corner perfection.

And probably you feel the same, so just go on and do it, the results might be surprising Smile


PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

starlights wrote:
... I am still a bit concerned about getting stuck with my repair if the alignment is not perfect (which I won't know for sure until i reassemble the lens)....

I just had an idea for a jig. I see that the two optical elements in question have a relatively wide side. This should enable you to set both of the elements so that the sides are parallel with the optical axis (am I being clear here, or is this gibberish?).
What I mean is that if you took an L-shaped aluminum profile (one of those to screw down the edge of a carpet on a step, for example - one can get one in any hardware store), and supported it adequately upside down, you should be able to place both lens elements in it side-by-side in such a way that they would match perfectly. Their their wide and flat sides would ensure the plane of the lens is seated perpendicularly to the optical axis.
Of course, you would need to make sure the profile is ideally straight. Another advantage of this approach is that it would give you a jig with space for excess epoxy/balsam to flow away.


PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2015 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I imagine the only way to put them together properly is to make some sort calibration tool - like to shine a pattern and adjust the lenses until it projects perfectly.

PS. Let us know if you find UV-curing glue in the US.


PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2015 12:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for your responses guys. There is some fantastic advice here. I really (truly) appreciate it.

I like the ideas and i think i may try some combination of all of these. One thing that i noticed is that if i applied a drop of water to the lenses and brought them together, they literally moulded themselves together in a pretty close to perfect orientation - perhaps they are made to fit into each others curvature relatively perfectly. I am pretty handy with hand stuff so I am reasonably confident that I will be able to get them aligned them as straight as any factory worker could (though not automated machines).

I am leaning towards the idea of using UVEpoxy and will perhaps go with that.

Earlier today, I polished and cleaned the flint and it appears 95-98% clean. Apparently, the coating on the outside of the flint had also accumulated deposits (like car paint gets rough and scratchy), so I used some car paint swirl remover and polished the flint with a hand held dremel (fitted with felt wheel). It seems to have worked pretty good though there is still a bit of deposits left and if i look carefully under a strong magnifying glass, the effected side (about a 3rd of the flint) looks as if a super thin (micron level) film of cellophane was stuck to that side. This is under extremely close examination, but under normal circumstances the surface looks polished and clean to naked eye.

I followed this tutorial for polishing and cleaning the flint with dremel and swirl remover http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/Lens-Coating-Removal.html

Fortunately, so far I have found all the tools that i needed at home. The only item missing is the UVEpoxy




Here is a picture of the lens when i got it and all of it (was) in and around the doublet.



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Thanks to everyone's advice here, I have come pretty far in this process Smile Hoping to make it all the way!


Last edited by starlights on Sat Dec 12, 2015 1:08 pm; edited 2 times in total


PostPosted: Sat Dec 12, 2015 12:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gardener wrote:


PS. Let us know if you find UV-curing glue in the US.


I plan to go with NOA61 : https://www.norlandproducts2.com/adhesives/adproductsdetail_header_removed.asp?Prdid=61

Edit Actually found/ordered the same NOA61 much cheaper via eBay seller : http://www.ebay.com/itm/171185267060?