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SuperRey
Joined: 24 Mar 2024 Posts: 5
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Posted: Sun Mar 24, 2024 1:02 pm Post subject: Konica UC Fish-eye HEXANON AR 15mm F2.8 - Dissasembly |
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SuperRey wrote:
Hello! I am very glad to join this community!
I have this lens for quite a time, it was plagued with fungus all around.
I started the disassembly to clean it as good as I can. I did not find any guide online but it has been easy until now.
I am now stuck with this:
http://www.kwyjibo.es/static/Screenshot_2024-03-24_135751.jpg
Do you think I can unscrew the top part?
Here are some more pictures:
http://www.kwyjibo.es/static/Screenshot_2024-03-24_135838.jpg
http://www.kwyjibo.es/static/Screenshot_2024-03-24_135856.jpg
Edit: Sorry, it seems there is some issue with the images or that I do not know how to post links. I will fix it as soon as I can. |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10543 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sun Mar 24, 2024 5:04 pm Post subject: Re: Konica UC Fish-eye HEXANON AR 15mm F2.8 - Dissasembly |
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visualopsins wrote:
SuperRey wrote: |
Hello! I am very glad to join this community!
I have this lens for quite a time, it was plagued with fungus all around.
I started the disassembly to clean it as good as I can. I did not find any guide online but it has been easy until now.
I am now stuck with this:
Do you think I can unscrew the top part?
Here are some more pictures:
Edit: Sorry, it seems there is some issue with the images or that I do not know how to post links. I will fix it as soon as I can. |
Welcome SuperRey -- links & photos not allowed first post. Should be OK now. (Also I added image tags to your post) _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021 Posts: 1271 Location: Kent, UK
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Posted: Sun Mar 24, 2024 5:23 pm Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
Welcome SuperRey!
I am not familiar with this particular lens but based on other similar fish-eye lenses I would say that yes, you can unscrew that ring.
But it may be stuck and may have been fixed in place with threadlock.
The factory likely would have used a custom tool to hold that ring and fasten it without danger of damaging the front element; you may need a rubber removal tool or improvise something yourself. _________________ Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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SuperRey
Joined: 24 Mar 2024 Posts: 5
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Posted: Mon Mar 25, 2024 9:15 am Post subject: Re: Konica UC Fish-eye HEXANON AR 15mm F2.8 - Dissasembly |
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SuperRey wrote:
visualopsins wrote: |
Welcome SuperRey -- links & photos not allowed first post. Should be OK now. (Also I added image tags to your post) |
Thanks visualopsins! I was not aware of that, I should read the forum rules more carefully!
RokkorDoctor wrote: |
Welcome SuperRey!
I am not familiar with this particular lens but based on other similar fish-eye lenses I would say that yes, you can unscrew that ring.
But it may be stuck and may have been fixed in place with threadlock.
The factory likely would have used a custom tool to hold that ring and fasten it without danger of damaging the front element; you may need a rubber removal tool or improvise something yourself. |
With a threadlock do you mean a screw perhaps? I see none but I will look closely again. Maybe it just glued together.
I have a rubber tool and I tried to unscrew but I did not get it. I will try again.
Thanks!
Last edited by SuperRey on Mon Mar 25, 2024 2:10 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021 Posts: 1271 Location: Kent, UK
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Posted: Mon Mar 25, 2024 10:53 am Post subject: Re: Konica UC Fish-eye HEXANON AR 15mm F2.8 - Dissasembly |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
SuperRey wrote: |
visualopsins wrote: |
Welcome SuperRey -- links & photos not allowed first post. Should be OK now. (Also I added image tags to your post)
Thanks visualopsins! I was not aware of that, I should read the forum rules more carefully!
[quote=RokkorDoctor]Welcome SuperRey!
I am not familiar with this particular lens but based on other similar fish-eye lenses I would say that yes, you can unscrew that ring.
But it may be stuck and may have been fixed in place with threadlock.
The factory likely would have used a custom tool to hold that ring and fasten it without danger of damaging the front element; you may need a rubber removal tool or improvise something yourself. |
With a threadlock do you mean a screw perhaps? I see none but I will look closely again. Maybe it just glued together.
I have a rubber tool and I tried to unscrew but I did not get it. I will try again.
Thanks! |
No threadlock is something akin to an adhesive, although I don't really think it is an adhesive. It is a liquid applied to threads that when dried prevents the threads from coming undone. There are different brands and some need different solvents.
Some soften when isopropyl alcohol is applied, others need something like acetone. Working with these solvents near the edges of lens elements takes experience and is not without risk; some lens blacking and lens cements can be damaged, as well as plastic components generally are not resistant to acetone and may get damaged. _________________ Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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SuperRey
Joined: 24 Mar 2024 Posts: 5
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Posted: Mon Mar 25, 2024 2:10 pm Post subject: Re: Konica UC Fish-eye HEXANON AR 15mm F2.8 - Dissasembly |
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SuperRey wrote:
RokkorDoctor wrote: |
No threadlock is something akin to an adhesive, although I don't really think it is an adhesive. It is a liquid applied to threads that when dried prevents the threads from coming undone. There are different brands and some need different solvents.
Some soften when isopropyl alcohol is applied, others need something like acetone. Working with these solvents near the edges of lens elements takes experience and is not without risk; some lens blacking and lens cements can be damaged, as well as plastic components generally are not resistant to acetone and may get damaged. |
Thanks! I will update with any advance.
Cheers! |
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BrianSVP
Joined: 09 Jun 2023 Posts: 301 Location: Philadelphia
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Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2024 2:04 pm Post subject: |
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BrianSVP wrote:
Hard to say from these pics. Is the housing metal or plastic. If it's metal, yes, the front likely scresw off. If plastic, the part may be molded in, which would require you to remove it with a scalpel and prying tools, which is much less fun.
If the white dots are what you are worried about, it appears to be Schneideritis (flaking of the backing paint) rather than fungus. |
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SuperRey
Joined: 24 Mar 2024 Posts: 5
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Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2024 6:46 pm Post subject: |
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SuperRey wrote:
BrianSVP wrote: |
Hard to say from these pics. Is the housing metal or plastic. If it's metal, yes, the front likely scresw off. If plastic, the part may be molded in, which would require you to remove it with a scalpel and prying tools, which is much less fun.
If the white dots are what you are worried about, it appears to be Schneideritis (flaking of the backing paint) rather than fungus. |
Thanks!
Yes, I was able to unscreew it with a rubber tool. It is indeed a metal housing.
Thanks for the headup about the Schneideritis, I was not familiar with the term. The lens itself has some typical fungus that I plan to remove with peroxide. Do you think it is advisable to "repair" the Schneideritis? |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10543 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Tue Mar 26, 2024 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Repair: “Shneideritis” & Edge Separation
https://richardhaw.com/2016/11/12/repair-shneideritis-edge-separation/ _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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SuperRey
Joined: 24 Mar 2024 Posts: 5
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Posted: Thu Apr 04, 2024 9:23 am Post subject: |
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SuperRey wrote:
I am progressing with the paint removing. I am concerned however with these bright spots:
Maybe these imperfections are related with the "Shneideritis"? |
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BrianSVP
Joined: 09 Jun 2023 Posts: 301 Location: Philadelphia
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Posted: Mon Apr 15, 2024 10:03 pm Post subject: |
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BrianSVP wrote:
Wow, I would NOT follow what the guy in this link did and sand off edge paint! Way too easy to get stray grit on optical surfaces and ruin them! Typically, this paint can be easily removed with a quick wipe of acetone. Given the age of this lens, it almost certainly has the optics cemented with an adhesive that the acetone won't harm. Even regular Canada Balsam would be fine if you just wiped rather than submerged. , The front element on this lens, where most of the Schneideritis appears to be isn't even a doublet, so no cement even involved there.
SuperRey wrote: |
I am progressing with the paint removing. I am concerned however with these bright spots: |
Did you scrape/sand like visualopsin's link describes? If so, you might have gouged the ground glass edge. It's probably not a huge deal, as it will be blacked in anyway and shouldn't really affect imaging. If you removed the paint through non-mechanical means, then it could be contributing to the Schneideritis, but usually it's just caused by aging of the paint. |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10543 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Tue Apr 16, 2024 2:24 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Good catch. Watch the grit.
Good point about taking care not to damage the side/optical surface.
What about solvent leaking between lens surface and its coating? Have you seen that? _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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BrianSVP
Joined: 09 Jun 2023 Posts: 301 Location: Philadelphia
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Posted: Fri Apr 19, 2024 10:56 pm Post subject: |
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BrianSVP wrote:
The metallic salt coatings used on lenses of this age are extremely resistant to solvent, and the acetone won't harm them.
visualopsins wrote: |
Good catch. Watch the grit.
Good point about taking care not to damage the side/optical surface.
What about solvent leaking between lens surface and its coating? Have you seen that? |
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