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norland
Joined: 10 Aug 2013 Posts: 165
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Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2014 10:46 pm Post subject: hazed lens elements ... do they get worse with time? |
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norland wrote:
When there is haze (not condensation) on inaccessible rear elements of an old lens, does it keep getting worse,
or does it stabilise at some point?
Reason for asking is I have one lens like that, a long and simple 500mm preset probably from sometime in the 1970s, but it is still sharp and not notably down on contrast or saturation despite most of the rear element assembly inner surface(s) -- no obvious way of dismantling, so presumably glued? -- having that problem. |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5019 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 6:58 am Post subject: Re: hazed lens elements ... do they get worse with time? |
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Excalibur wrote:
norland wrote: |
When there is haze (not condensation) on inaccessible rear elements of an old lens, does it keep getting worse,
or does it stabilise at some point?
Reason for asking is I have one lens like that, a long and simple 500mm preset probably from sometime in the 1970s, but it is still sharp and not notably down on contrast or saturation despite most of the rear element assembly inner surface(s) -- no obvious way of dismantling, so presumably glued? -- having that problem. |
Well I have a haze problem on a Tokina zoom and it just wont clean off the lens element that seems to be affected...anyway after about 3 years it's stayed the same, the zoom is still usuable and produces quite sharp shots but I suppose contrast must suffer....I should throw it away but it's the only zoom I have if I want to use my Olympus OM2 _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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Pancolart
Joined: 04 Feb 2008 Posts: 3693 Location: Slovenia, EU
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 10:21 am Post subject: Re: hazed lens elements ... do they get worse with time? |
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Pancolart wrote:
norland wrote: |
When there is haze (not condensation) on inaccessible rear elements of an old lens, does it keep getting worse,
or does it stabilise at some point?
Reason for asking is I have one lens like that, a long and simple 500mm preset probably from sometime in the 1970s, but it is still sharp and not notably down on contrast or saturation despite most of the rear element assembly inner surface(s) -- no obvious way of dismantling, so presumably glued? -- having that problem. |
I had the same problem. Many of those 8/500mm and 6.3/400mm pipes have it. Find a better optic chain-store that also makes glass and have that element replaced.
Should not cost you more then 20 EUR. _________________ ---------------------------------
The Peculiar Apparatus Of Victorian Steampunk Photography: 100+ Genuine Steampunk Camera Designs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B92829NS |
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marcusBMG
Joined: 07 Dec 2012 Posts: 1305 Location: Conwy N Wales
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Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 4:11 pm Post subject: |
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marcusBMG wrote:
I can echo the preceding responses, I sold the Prinz-Galaxy 400 f6.3 that was afflicted, though it performed Ok. I have read some posts referring to "lens whitening": that's certainly what it looked like , a patchy whitish haze. I tried various solvents to see if it would shift..Is it the glass or the coating...no idea. Since it seems to be always the rear-most element that's afflicted what's particular about that?
replace the element? NWDIToT! The quality of these is in the achromat, the rear elements need to be (only) good enough, that's why the results even with the haze were acceptable. However I doubt that a custom element could be got for cheaply enough here in the UK to make it worth while given that these go for (average) 25-30 in the UK (and are often obtained for rather less by practiced MFlenses forum bargain hunters). I should consult with my neigbour who used to manage an optical factory. _________________ pentax ME super (retired)
Pentax K3-ii; pentax K-S2; Samsung NX 20; Lumix G1 + adapters;
Adaptall collection (proliferating!) inc 200-500mm 31A, 300mm f2.8, 400mm f4.
Primes: takumar 55mm; smc 28mm, 50mm; kino/komine 28mm f2's, helios 58mm, Tamron Nestar 400mm, novoflex 400mm, Vivitar 135mm close focus, 105mm macro; Jupiter 11A; CZJ 135mm.
A classic zoom or two: VS1 (komine), Kiron Zoomlock... |
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SXR_Mark
Joined: 12 Jun 2010 Posts: 506 Location: England
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Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 8:50 pm Post subject: |
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SXR_Mark wrote:
As has been mentioned, hazing of the rear elements of this type of lens is very common. Since I have seen ones with varying degrees of hazing from barely noticeable to almost opaque, I would say it will get progressively with time.
The rear group of the lens should be separable. With all the lenses of this type that I have had it has been possible to fully dismantle the rear group. You should try running isopropyl alcohol on the threads of the lens carrier to free them.
Once you have the elements apart, you can remove the haze (and AR coating) with 0.25 micron diamond polishing (lapidary) paste on a soft cloth. Rub gently renewing the cloth and paste frequently until the haze is gone, If the hazing is not too bad, you may still have some of the AR coating left at the end as well (these lenses are just single coated so the coating is quite thick). I have cleaned up quite a lot of single coated lenses with this technique. In fact, I had a very hazed rear element from a 400mm f6.3 lens of the type you have in my junk box and used it as a practice piece with the diamond paste. It worked a treat.
Mark _________________ Olympus OM-D E-M1 for everything |
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