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tromboads
Joined: 29 May 2012 Posts: 1655 Location: Melbourne AU
Expire: 2015-10-01
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 12:56 pm Post subject: Getting Black Right (Monitor Cal) |
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tromboads wrote:
So problem.
I've never bothered worrying to much about getting colour right from monitor to monitor as I hardly print. If I do, I confess to taking it to my local stationary shop and using one of those automated touch print machines...
Anyway just recently I was faffing about with an image, spending a bit of time getting the lower end of the contrast "to how I wanted it" only to see wildly different results from say my work PC to my home.
I would have thought brightness would be pretty easy to get right but it seems I have a varied idea of what brightness should be.
So, how can I be editing images correctly If they are going to look vastly different to anyone whom isn't sitting in front of my PC. How do you gals and guys check the brightness / contrast of an image? By you eye balling it on screen, or can you use the histogram to your advantage and check parts of the image to get an idea that there should be an obvious difference to whomever is viewing it.
Case in point is this image.
Click
I spent ages ensuring there was juuuuuust enough separation between the top of the subjects hair, and the dark hallway he was peering down. I've now looked at this on various monitors and not one looks as clear as it does here on my sh11ty dell.
How should I best go about controlling this?
Gracefully yours. |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7794 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 4:29 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
That's way underexposed on my old Samsung monitor, which is calibrated with a Spyder. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11030 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
First set brightness, then contrast, before setting black.
Many (most or all) LCD monitors are way brighter than any print. Setting the brightness first gives a reference point to the contrast range. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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kds315*
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16658 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 5:04 pm Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
yep, massively underexposed!! _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
http://www.macrolenses.de for macro and special lens info
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/kds315/albums my albums using various lenses
http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/ my UV BLOG
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Currently most FAV lens(es):
X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f4/60mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f2/62mm
Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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tromboads
Joined: 29 May 2012 Posts: 1655 Location: Melbourne AU
Expire: 2015-10-01
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Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 11:40 pm Post subject: |
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tromboads wrote:
visualopsins wrote: |
First set brightness, then contrast, before setting black.
Many (most or all) LCD monitors are way brighter than any print. Setting the brightness first gives a reference point to the contrast range. |
So really I'm thinking to hard about this, basic contrast / brightness adjustment will see me fine. |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11030 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2016 4:15 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
tromboads wrote: |
visualopsins wrote: |
First set brightness, then contrast, before setting black.
Many (most or all) LCD monitors are way brighter than any print. Setting the brightness first gives a reference point to the contrast range. |
So really I'm thinking to hard about this, basic contrast / brightness adjustment will see me fine. |
I misunderstood the question I think...I thought the end result was a print. For printing, the monitor brightness and contrast need reducing to match the paper. Monitors display is not so limited..
For display, all (I know) that can be done is to set the end of the right side of the histogram, letting the left side fall where it may -- since monitors vary greatly in brightness, the darker portions of the image will vary. There is no way (I know) to make the darker portions appear the same on most monitors.
All that is after setting the white balance, of course....
Somebody with more post processing experience can probably educate us more about how to... _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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