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kuuan
Joined: 14 Jan 2008 Posts: 4569 Location: right now: Austria
Expire: 2014-12-26
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Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 2:03 am Post subject: fast, easy and cheap fix of a stiff focus ring |
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kuuan wrote:
Yesterday here in Bangkok, in a place with many shops offering used photo gear and some repair men, I asked if the stiff focus ring of a Tele Kominar can be fixed. The good man said 'yes, easy', took a can of lighter fluid and applied it to letting it run into the slight gap between the barrel and the focus ring, then gave the ring some full turns and wiped off the remaining lighter fluid!
Now the focus ring runs very smoothly! The time spent for repair was about 1 minute, and the cost 0 ( well I did give some tip, but on wanting to pay the repair man had said 'No, no, free' )
Of course my heart took some faster beats when I watched him, but I was confident that he knows what he is doing, he must have fixed the same problem with the same technique many times.
Now I am curious if it will stay this way..what is your take on that?
maybe not for the fainthearted, but I am very happy indeed: I had bought this lens for just one Euro out of a throw away bin in a shop in Osaka, it is a very good performer and now it works perfectly well.
cheers,
Andreas _________________ my photos on flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/kuuan/collections |
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Screamin Scott
Joined: 13 Oct 2007 Posts: 1014 Location: Dallas, Georgia USA
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Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 4:16 am Post subject: |
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Screamin Scott wrote:
That can be a temporary fix as long as the problem was dried up grease & you use it judiciously . A slightly out of round focus ring from a dropped lens is of course a different story.... _________________ Cameras-Nikon D300, D7100,D610,FE2,FTN ,FT2,N90s, Olympus Pen EP-3 & Olympus OM-D E-M10
Nikkor AF Zooms=28-105/3.5D,28-70/3.5D,35-135/3.5, et al
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Kiron /Kino made lenses//70-210/4ai,28-105/3.2ai,30-80/3.5ai,Viv 28/2ai,35-85/2.8aiVivS1,105/2.8Ais Dine,24-48/3.8ai VivS1,50-150/3.8aiViv,28-85/2.8aiViv,100/2.8Nai Viv,70-210/3.5Nai Viv,28/2.5ai Viv Komine made Viv//24/2Ais,135/2.8aiCF,28-50/3.5ai,28-90/2.8ai Viv S1,80-200/4.5aiCosina made Viv 19/3.8 Ais...Also Sigma 24/2.8 Ais Tokina made24/2.8ai VivAF Sigma 21-35/3.5,& other lenses... A link to some of my Flickr albums...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/screaminscott/albums |
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sichko
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 2475 Location: South West UK
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Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 10:11 am Post subject: Re: fast, easy and cheap fix of a stiff focus ring |
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sichko wrote:
kuuan wrote: |
Now I am curious if it will stay this way..what is your take on that?
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The lighter fuel is quite volatile and my guess is that it will evaporate. I don't know how long this will take - but you will be able to tell us ! _________________ John |
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LucisPictor
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 17633 Location: Oberhessen, Germany / Maidstone ('95-'96)
Expire: 2013-12-03
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Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 11:12 am Post subject: |
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LucisPictor wrote:
And what if the fluid creeps into the lens and onto the internal elements? _________________ Personal forum activity on pause every now and again (due to job obligations)!
Carsten, former Moderator
Things ON SALE
Carsten = "KAPCTEH" = "Karusutenu" | T-shirt?.........................My photos from Emilia: http://www.schouler.net/emilia/emilia2011.html
My gear: http://retrocameracs.wordpress.com/ausrustung/
Old list: http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65 (Not up-to-date, sorry!) | http://www.lucispictor.de | http://www.alensaweek.wordpress.com |
http://www.retrocamera.de |
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kuuan
Joined: 14 Jan 2008 Posts: 4569 Location: right now: Austria
Expire: 2014-12-26
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Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2009 11:46 am Post subject: |
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kuuan wrote:
Screamin Scott wrote: |
That can be a temporary fix as long as the problem was dried up grease & you use it judiciously . A slightly out of round focus ring from a dropped lens is of course a different story.... |
yes, this of course only could work if the focus ring is not physically bent but if it is a problem of dry grease
sichko wrote: |
The lighter fuel is quite volatile and my guess is that it will evaporate. I don't know how long this will take - but you will be able to tell us ! |
yes, this was my thought too, also I was afraid that the lighter fluid may soften but also destroy the old grease. I am curious now for how long it will work fine.
LucisPictor wrote: |
And what if the fluid creeps into the lens and onto the internal elements? |
yes, this fear immediately came to my mind the instant he applied the fluid. But then again I am was sure that he must have done the same 100 times, so he must have been confident that this does not happen resp. if it did that the fluid would evaporate very fast, in any case that it did not effect the optics. _________________ my photos on flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/kuuan/collections |
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alex
Joined: 18 Apr 2009 Posts: 561 Location: UK
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Posted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 7:03 am Post subject: |
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alex wrote:
Naptha (lighter fluid) is a fairly standard trick for freeing up sticky parts, such as shutters and focussing threads. If all that's needed is moving some light dirt out of the way, as with some old mechanical shutters, it's pretty reliable. Neither will it affect optics, as it evaporates without residue. But in my experience it's not a permanent fix for sticky focussing threads. If you're confident taking a lens apart, it's a good start to help free up a jammed focussing ring to get you inside, but if the problem is solidified grease, the solution is to remove the old grease and replace it with a modern and inert silicon grease. _________________ Alex |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11062 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 4:17 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Neat trick! Not too much lighter fluid work well to re-mix the helicoid grease and restore viscosity. Too much it can reach inner elements, carrying with it some grease to contaminate elements after naptha evaporate. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
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Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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kds315*
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16664 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 4:59 pm Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
Well, I guess one has to think a step further: Lighter Fluid of course makes the old grease move again, but ig used too much will take a bit of teh greas with it, trasport it somewhere esle and then deposits it then when it evaporates - that might well be the aperture blades.
Same might happen if using WD40 which also has that effect, but lubricates additionally.
If both is used very sparingly, it can well be helpful. I only ouse a few drops applied with the tip of a toothpick and sometimes the additional help of mild heat (fan / hair dryer).
I could rescue some expensive Zeiss lenses with stuck aperture blades also ... _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
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X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
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Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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kuuan
Joined: 14 Jan 2008 Posts: 4569 Location: right now: Austria
Expire: 2014-12-26
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Posted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 1:20 pm Post subject: |
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kuuan wrote:
so this is a known remedy then.
thank you for your reports with your own experiences
after the 'treatment' it was almost too loose, but 2 days already it had become much harder again. Now after a week it has not hardenend more than it did within the first 2 days, but stayed only a bit softer than 'before', but just enough to be able to focus without turning the M42 lens of the camera mount.
( I may have it newly creased )
best regards
Andreas _________________ my photos on flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/kuuan/collections |
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Scoo
Joined: 16 Jun 2009 Posts: 62 Location: Finland
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Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 7:41 pm Post subject: |
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Scoo wrote:
Naptha can be your best friend when dealing with stuck shutters/diaphragms.
Here's a generic description of a minimal (almost non-invasive) method of re-lubing most M42 lenses just enough so that they work again:
Remove the back mount of the lens, set the focus distance to the closest possible. Apply a bit of naphta to the focussing helicoid (which became partly unscrewed as you focussed away from infinity when it is most compacted) and rack the focus back and forth, it should now have become un-sticky You could stop here but as said before, this is only temporary and for just a little more work you can reach a permanent improvment.
Remove some of the old sticky grease if you like with a cotton swap (q-tips on the other side of the Atlantic), tooth pick or whatnot. Then apply a little bit of new grease (never silicone if possible, never WD-40/CRC 5-56 or equivalent), I prefer lithium grease (a tube that'll last a lifetime cost me a whopping 3€). Again, focus back and forth to distribute the new lubricant.
Pros: if you're not adept at disassembly (and more importantly, RE-assembly) there's no risk of botching the operation (say not be able to re-thread the helicoid at the correct point, have the aperture come apart in your hands or such).
Cons: possibly not as smooth result as if you had removed all old grease and applied a modern lubricant. But, a not-as-smooth-as-possible focus is better than a stuck focus ring than might even cause the lens to start dismounting from a screw mount camera/adapter.
I started doing this after I took apart a Helios-44M in a hurry and is now frustrated at the sight of it (can't get focus ring, focus helicoid and aperture to re-align correctly, a real bloody 3D puzzle)
PS WD-40 and such should not be used as it will change in time and might become sticky. Better to use modern inert grease lubricants (that besides might work well in a wide temperature range). _________________ Has GAS and annoyed wife, has yet to meet flying frying pan or heavy lens though. |
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