D-810

Doc Sharptail · Joined: 23 Nov 2020 Posts: 850 Location: Winnipeg Canada

Finally made a decision, and finally got a full frame.
It's a Nikon D-810.
It looks like it was drug from K.C./MO. to D-FW/TX. by a crazed mule.
The insides are surprisingly clean for a camera that has seen such rough use.
I paid a price I figure I can live with, which turns out to be about a third of current flea-pay pricing.

From the few frames I did with it today, I can state with conviction that full frame is the best way for me to do justice with film era m/f lenses.
The renderings and character of this old glass become crystal clear with this format.

I'll have pix of the camera up in the next 2 days or so- pretty wiped from deciphering the manual, and wading through sub sub-menu's...

-D.S.

Doc Sharptail · Joined: 23 Nov 2020 Posts: 850 Location: Winnipeg Canada

There it is with it's 502 (!) page manual and box.

It's wearing one of my favorite nikkor lenses here- the old "K" variant 85mm f1.8

There's a heavy crop of one of the first images taken with the new to me camera.

Original image re-sized only to fit this page...
Nikkor 85mm f1.8 at f8 and 1/125 sec, ISO 400.

Impressive, especially compared to what I was doing before.

-D.S.

Doc Sharptail · Joined: 23 Nov 2020 Posts: 850 Location: Winnipeg Canada

After using the camera for almost 3 weeks, and shooting while I can, I have to say I am impressed.
For m/f lens use, it is hard to beat.

There are some handling foibles that I am still getting used to.
The formation of the grip has me hitting the "function" button next to the lens mount quite a bit.
I accidentally turned on the framing lines in that manner. I don't really mind them, but could do without the red light on them when the shutter trips.

The quick access buttons on top of the camera speed up the basics quite a bit.
I don't have to scroll through menu's to set ISO or W/B.
Finding things on the camera is still a bit of a learning experience.
I am using the manual quite a bit.

The images made with it are surprisingly good.
I have a bit more freedom to concentrate on focusing, which I like a lot.

The big eye-piece on the viewfinder could use an eye-cup. I find stray light reflecting back into my eye in bright winter scenes.
I may have one around here some where for the F-3 that should fit..

-D.S.

pendennis · Joined: 16 Oct 2021 Posts: 10

Earlier this year, I opted to sell my D500, along with come DX lenses, and get a used D810. I have no regret at all. It's been a great camera so far, and I love the quietness vis-a-vis my D750 and D610 models. Mine came to me via UsedPhotoPro with only 1470 clicks on the shutter. The condition was like new, and the customer guy stated that my D810 had been trade fodder for a new D850.

Right now I'm using it with a Nikkor 70-180 f/4.5-5.6 AF Micro; great combination.

Enjoy!!

cooltouch · Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9107 Location: Houston, Texas

Will the D810 accept pre-AI lenses? And, if so, are there any notable limitations imposed with their use?

visualopsins · Expire: 2021-06-22

https://www.nikonians.org/reviews/nikon-slr-camera-and-lens-compatibility says NO.

Looks hard to focus with lenses faster than f/3.5? (I think kitty should be more in-focus) Surely Nikon has a faster focus screen replacement, but like Canon's is probably a bit darker with apertures smaller than f/5.6 or so...

Otherwise a VERY nice camera! Congrats

chhayanat · Joined: 11 Apr 2016 Posts: 232 Location: The Cow Belt

Doc Sharptail · Joined: 23 Nov 2020 Posts: 850 Location: Winnipeg Canada

Doc Sharptail · Joined: 23 Nov 2020 Posts: 850 Location: Winnipeg Canada

Doc Sharptail · Joined: 23 Nov 2020 Posts: 850 Location: Winnipeg Canada

After using the camera for a little over a year, I still mostly like it.

I'm absolutely in love with the big sensor.
The photo's that it makes are still an "aha! moment" for me yet.

The camera has a few foibles that are hopefully dealt with in later cameras.

Button assignment- I could really do without this feature. Turning on the feature is a little too easy with the function button at the lower side of the lens mount.
This is a liability for those who want to do stop down metering, or even simple depth of field previewing.
I keep having to go back to the manual to navigate files to get the d.o.f.p.v. button away from exposure lock mode, and back to what it's supposed to be doing.

For a pro level camera, the rigid aperture linking tab is a huge liability, especially for use with older pre-A/I manual focus lenses.
This camera could really use the folding tab of the FM-FE-F3-D5-D6 etc.
Huge mistake for a company that based so much of it's reputation on lens compatibility continuity.

Other than that, great camera.

-D.S.

SkedAddled · Expire: 2021-08-12

There's no comparing a full-frame sensor to APS-C or other crop formats, as you've discovered.

I thought I was doing great when I moved from my Canon Bridge P&S to APS-C
with an XTi/400D to a 40D then a 50D across several years, but after being
fortunate enough to have acquired a 5D Mk IV, there's just no contest anymore.
The vintage 1970s and 1980s lenses just seem to have improved so much
with the larger format, with the Tamron SP 28-80 and Rokinon 14 getting me
well past the territory of the Sigma 10-20 or Canon 10-22 I owned and lusted for,
respectively.

My vintage Tamron SP 28-80 and SP 60-300, new Rokinon 14, and vintage Soligor 400
and 75-260 seem to have improved with the increased size and sensitivity of modern FF,
while the overall package hasn't much changed, physically.
It truly has been a complete game-changer.

While an S3iS has since been reacquired, the XTi and 40D were sold off,
while I'm keeping the 50D for future infrared conversion.
Meanwhile, the 5D4 will stick around until it breaks or batteries
are no longer available.

Doc Sharptail · Joined: 23 Nov 2020 Posts: 850 Location: Winnipeg Canada

I like the points you make about lenses.

I am learning a lot about lenses with this camera, and like you have found that some of the "big reputation" film era lenses were actually purpose designed~ some of them with actually pretty narrow sweet spots.

There have been a few surprise lenses- even zooms: Cosina, Tamron and even RMC Tokina have beautiful optics that deserve the time for testing and use.

I'm still having a heck of a lot of fun with this and am forming new opinions on what constitutes the all purpose lens, if there is such a thing...

-D.S.

SkedAddled · Expire: 2021-08-12

My own 'all-purpose' lens is the Tamron Adaptall-2 28-80, as it's just such a joy
to carry around and shoot with. It's lightweight, and has great focal qualities.
It's an all-aluminum monster if looking into vintage short zooms, and it does weigh
a bit more than AF versions, but it's an exceptional lens.
Color rendition, clarity, sharpness and detail are all there.

I have one copy more perfect than another, and willing to sell/trade the lesser,
which is still an excellent copy.

ZuikosHexanonsandVivitars · Joined: 03 Nov 2021 Posts: 210 Location: Austria

Doc Sharptail · Joined: 23 Nov 2020 Posts: 850 Location: Winnipeg Canada

ZuikosHexanonsandVivitars · Joined: 03 Nov 2021 Posts: 210 Location: Austria

Doc Sharptail · Joined: 23 Nov 2020 Posts: 850 Location: Winnipeg Canada

Thanks- will have a look around for it!

-D.S.

ZuikosHexanonsandVivitars · Joined: 03 Nov 2021 Posts: 210 Location: Austria

Here´s just one example of what NX Studio can do with images you´d probably throw away, if you see the OOC jpeg. Lightroom and other professional PP software is assumingly better in this regard, but NX Studio is actually for free, and therefore such an interesting choice in my mind. Plus, it´s easy to work with.

The original untinkered-with image, exported from the Nikon .nef-file:

Crop from the window left upper corner. It shows the image with noise reduction on. The camera applied noise reduction in the mode "fast". In this case, I have taken the shot with ISO 125 and decide to switch it off. There´s also the possibility to appy "high quality" and "high quality 2013" whereas the latter is the best choice, if working with higher ISO values. Where that point between getting the better image quality by either choosing "off" or "high quality 2013" lies, might much depend on the sensor. In the D7100, I find it´s around ISO 1000.

And off. Notice how it clears up considerably and the margin between the bright window pane and the dark frame appears now tack sharp.

Now, since the image is much too dark in the areas of interest, I apply "Active D-Lighting" in the highest mode. Just to see what it can do. Notice that this feature leaves the sky almost completely alone. Despite this, it brings out quite natural colors in the underexposed areas. The feature is doing mostly the same like DRO (Dynamic Range Optimizer" in Sony´s ARW editor, but I find it does it considerably better.

Next, I tuned down the overall exposure by 1/2 EV.

Again a look at the window from before:

At last, I find Active D-Lighting has turned the sky a little into turquois. This can be remedied by using the LCH-Editor and selctively turning down this particular color value. This tool is a bit more complicated to use at first, but Nikon offers video tutorials that explain in a few minutes how it works.

Doc Sharptail · Joined: 23 Nov 2020 Posts: 850 Location: Winnipeg Canada

Interesting results!

Will have to look into this some more.

-D.S.

Doc Sharptail · Joined: 23 Nov 2020 Posts: 850 Location: Winnipeg Canada

A bit here on the camera's features, and their sometimes limited use with m/f lenses.

Shooting modes :

P or "Program Mode"

I don't use this, as none of my m/f lenses speak in direct electronics to the camera.

A or "Automatic Exposure" mode

This is how I set the camera to be ready for use. Fairly reliable in most "good" lighting situations.
I try to use reasonable aperture settings with it.

S mode.

I dunno! Wink

Never use it. It's either for fast action, or some kind of a/f mode. Not needed by me. The 6 or 7 frames per second in "A" mode are plenty sufficient for the way I make photo's.

M or "Manual mode"
This sees a fair bit of use in difficult lighting, and the odd times I go to flash use.
I thought I would use it more.

Metering modes:

Spot!
This is the way I use the camera almost at all times, in conjunction with the A/E lock.
I simply decide which part of the scene is going to determine exposure, read with it with the viewfinder's icon, and lock the exposure. Much faster than shooting in manual. A bit strange that I'm willing to admit to this, but that's how the system works for me.

Spot *

Huh? haven't a clue, or found a need for whatever it is.

Matrix:

On this camera, at focal lengths wider than 50mm, this setting can result in serious over-exposure for me.
Fairly reasonable at f/l's of 55mm and up in "A" mode.
I really think it is the metering mode to select for Program exposure automation.

Center weighted:

Don't use it, or have found a need to.

Other settings off the top of my head:

Eyepiece diopter:

Cranked for my far sightedness. I can still almost get away with shooting without my glasses.

W/B:

I leave it on "A" and forget it.

Shutter selector:

I leave it on S single. I ain't in that much of a rush. There's a setting on that wheel for quiet mode that I still haven't found a need for.

Saturation:

On normal. Vivid setting is a bit scary looking with the way I shoot Wink

There's a few other things that I struggled with a bit at first.
I am left in best shape with the flash shutter speed selector at 1/250. I have to watch this as the camera wants to select 1/60 on it's own, and I do need to pay attention to it.

There's more, but the rest of it is pretty well straight forward easily understandable things that really need no mention, except for the exposure compensator. I set mine to 1/3 of a stop under, which seems a little better color and saturation-wise to my eye. It makes for slightly "better" digital prints as well.

-D.S.

Doc Sharptail · Joined: 23 Nov 2020 Posts: 850 Location: Winnipeg Canada

Edit:

Actually, S shooting mode is plain old shutter priority auto, and nothing else.
It's never been important to me, even on film cameras that had it, and I've never had occasion to use it.

-D.S.

ZuikosHexanonsandVivitars · Joined: 03 Nov 2021 Posts: 210 Location: Austria

Hello Doc,

Interesting, thank you for sharing. I got a D610 some two months ago.

I also use aperture priority in most cases, manual mode for tricky situations, and drive mode always in single.

Exposure metering never worked for me properly with spot. But that was with the D7100 and the 18/200 AF-DX lens. Most of the time I got an overexposed image; I rather prefer the opposite, when the RAW is slightly underexposed, as detail recovery from dark areas is easier than of burnt out bright areas. I let the camera measure the entire frame and keep the exposure correction on -1/3, and in 9 of 10 that yields usable results. I assume your D810 is more evolved in smart exposure measuring and you might not face that issue with spot metering. I don´t remember if the D7100 already had a dynamic range optimization, but the D610 has it, and that makes the necessity to work on each and every RAW file even less. I can use instead the jpeg directly OOC in many cases. The algorithm in the camera is quite good, and it´s just sometimes that I see the need to correct it afterwards in NX.

Spot metering with longer focal lengths: To be honest, I have until now just the 20mm f3.5 AiS Nikkor and a 50mm f1.4AiS, and my 135mm f2.0AiS. Latter one I had on the camera for maybe 10 shots so far. Judging only from those very few images, I can´t remember having problems with overexposure and matrix metering. I will give it a try again. It´s just the 135mm has a rather stiff focusing ring and it´s too valuable to open it myself and probably mess it up. I have an offer from Nikon for professional overhaul, but it´s not exactly cheap and I´m still hesitant. However, using it this way is a bit of a p.i.t.a. and thus it sees very little use at the moment.

What I find more difficult is correct focusing. I re-started MF photographing with mirrorless cameras and I got used to focus peaking and eyefinder magnification, with which it´s fairly easy. The simple white dot in the viewfinder of the D610 leaves a bit of a leeway and my first attempts to get sharp images were disappionting. But I´m getting there, slowly. Still if you got some good tips, don´t hesitate...

All in all, I thoroughly enjoy having this camera. After I lost interest in the D7100 and gave it away, I shortly after started to miss it. The D610 is like having her back, but so much better Wink

Doc Sharptail · Joined: 23 Nov 2020 Posts: 850 Location: Winnipeg Canada

ZuikosHexanonsandVivitars · Joined: 03 Nov 2021 Posts: 210 Location: Austria

Thank you, especially for the tip-off to set the diopter wheel. That helped me a lot, Doc!

Doc Sharptail · Joined: 23 Nov 2020 Posts: 850 Location: Winnipeg Canada

I've down-loaded and installed the latest version of N/X Studio.

I have to find the tutorial for it, and find out how to get past the thumbnail images that the application automatically loaded.
I'm not all that much computer literate, so it will probably take a while.

-D.S.