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nemesis101
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 25 Mar 2008 Posts: 2050 Location: Oregon USA
Expire: 2015-01-22
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Posted: Fri May 27, 2011 12:09 am Post subject: |
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nemesis101 wrote:
Hi,
Just click the 'quote' button of the post you wish to comment upon, and then start writing, the original post will then appear in a box with your comments above it.
If you are having problems with the pictures and want to send me a full sized sample I'll take a look see what's happening?
gary2881 wrote: |
Doug, I don't really know how the quote button works.
There seems to be a large gap in the quality of my photos from my screen to Photobucket, to the forum. I won't be posting any more pictures until I can work something else out.
Gary |
_________________ Lenses and cameras:
Amateurs worry about equipment
Pros worry about money,
Masters worry about light. |
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lulalake
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 22 Apr 2007 Posts: 1191 Location: Near Austin Texas
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Fri May 27, 2011 2:09 pm Post subject: |
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lulalake wrote:
gary2881 wrote: |
Doug, I don't really know how the quote button works.
There seems to be a large gap in the quality of my photos from my screen to Photobucket, to the forum. I won't be posting any more pictures until I can work something else out.
Gary |
If there is any resizing in the transfer process, that could be the issue. |
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womble
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Posts: 987 Location: Hertfordshire
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Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2011 3:33 pm Post subject: |
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womble wrote:
I have a couple but I'd have to dig them out of the bottom shelf to tell you what they are. Both of them were free gifts. I use them as my sacrificial archaeological site cameras as I don't care if they get covered in dirt or grind to a halt full of dust, and they are automatic enough for the staff to manage. That way I can keep my Pentaxes away from dirt and idiots.
K. _________________ Kris Lockyear
Digital: Pentax K-3iii
35mm film SLRs: various Pentax bodies from a H2 to a SF7, favourites the MX and LX
Rangefinder: Zeiss Super Ikonta IV, FED2, Zorkii-4, Industar 26m, Jupiter 8, 11 and 12 lenses
Medium format: various folders, Yashica Mat 124 G. Lubitel 2
LF: Horseman LE 5x4 view camera.
MF lenses (favourites) Pentax "K" 200mm f/2.5; "K" 135mm f/2.5; "K" 50mm f/1.2; "K" 35mm f/2; "K" 30mm f/2.8; "K" 28mm f/3.5 shift; "K" 15mm f/3.5; M 100mm f/2.8; M 40mm f/2.8; Jupiter-9 85mm |
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trev
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 30 Jun 2010 Posts: 580 Location: North Wales - UK
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Posted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 10:22 am Post subject: Eos 600/630 |
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trev wrote:
Used to have a 600 yonks ago but sold it. Recently whilst trolling through ebay I came across another one and decided for a laugh to bid on it and I won it for a fiver (5 UKP).
When it arrived I was pleasantly surprised as it was in excellent condition, came complete with body cap and rear eye cup AND had a data back to boot. The body colour was not black but a sort of gunmetal grey which although not rare was a nice surprise. Also came with a HOVE book. Not a bad bag for a fiver eh?? _________________ Fuji X10, X-A1 and Samsung nx 20 |
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cooltouch
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 3:07 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Not bad at all, and they were actually built much better back in the late 80s, it seems, than now, unless you get up into the pro-quality gear.
The 600 must have been a Euro model, though -- never seen one over on this side of the Pond. We had the 650 (first one), followed by the 620 and 630. Most notable features on the 620 was the fast shutter: 1/4000 with 1/250 flash sync. Then along came the 630 that Canon claimed focused twice as fast as the previous models, but it lost the fast shutter of the 620. Because of this, the 620 became something of a cult classic for years. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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DigiChromeEd
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 29 Dec 2009 Posts: 3460 Location: Northern Ireland
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Posted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 4:31 pm Post subject: |
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DigiChromeEd wrote:
The 630 in the US was the 600 in Europe. _________________ "I've got a Nikon camera, I like to take a photograph" - Paul Simon |
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std
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 09 Feb 2010 Posts: 1826 Location: Bulgaria
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Posted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 5:05 pm Post subject: |
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std wrote:
I've ordered Eos 600 for 9 GBP. I intend to use it with a manual FL 1.2/55 converted to EOS.
Do I need an programmed (EMF) AF confirm chip in order to get the metering right? _________________ Stefan
My lens list:
SLR MD: Rokkor 1,7/50 Exakta: Kilfitt-Makro-Kilar E 3.5/4cm; CZJ 2/50 Pancolar;M42: CZJ 2.8/50 Tessar; Mir-1B 2.8/37; Jupiter-9 2/85 T-mount: Tamron 5.9/200; Tamron 6.9/300; Tamron 7.5/400 C-mount: Cosmicar 1.8/50 Y/S: Sun 3.5/38-90, Sun 4/70-210 RF Contax RF: Jupiter-8 2/50; Contax G:CZ 2,8/21 Biogon T; CZ 2,8/28 Biogon T; CZ 2/35 Planar T; CZ 2/45 Planar T; CZ 2,8/90 Sonnar T |
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trev
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 30 Jun 2010 Posts: 580 Location: North Wales - UK
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Posted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 5:44 pm Post subject: |
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trev wrote:
Using any of the 600 series cameras you will only get an "OPooCL" standing for "open, okay and close" if using manual metering, not the best solution _________________ Fuji X10, X-A1 and Samsung nx 20 |
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yinyangbt
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 08 Oct 2010 Posts: 1973 Location: Romania
Expire: 2012-12-27
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Posted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 6:00 pm Post subject: |
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yinyangbt wrote:
I had an EF-M that I sold because a number of missed focus due to my myopia and bought in 2003 the EOS 300 .Light and reliable to use , excelent camera for travel . Last year I bought a 50e that I like very much ....but I use very rarely . Because of the decrease of the quality of the remaining labs here in Romania , I am practically giving up working on film , It's a pity , I know.
I intend to keep It as a full frame body only for wide angle 17-28 until I'll solve this problem on APS-C digital cameras ( I can go there to a 30mm equivalent with Flek 20 ) _________________ Cheers , Teo
http://photo.net/photodb/member-photos?user_id=5778915 |
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gary2881
![Level 1 Level 1](rating1.gif) Joined: 22 May 2010 Posts: 135 Location: Scio, OR
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Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 2:03 am Post subject: |
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gary2881 wrote:
EOS 1n, Legacy Pro 100, Rodinal 1:50
Gary |
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martinsmith99
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 31 Aug 2008 Posts: 6950 Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 6:05 am Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
Nice images! _________________ Casual attendance these days |
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nemesis101
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 25 Mar 2008 Posts: 2050 Location: Oregon USA
Expire: 2015-01-22
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Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 6:55 am Post subject: |
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nemesis101 wrote:
Is it my aged eyes or are neither of the waterfall pictures sharp?
Doug _________________ Lenses and cameras:
Amateurs worry about equipment
Pros worry about money,
Masters worry about light. |
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mmelvis
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 24 May 2010 Posts: 1326 Location: Florida,USA
Expire: 2015-05-09
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Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 12:02 am Post subject: |
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mmelvis wrote:
gary2881 wrote: |
EOS 1n, Legacy Pro 100, Rodinal 1:50
Gary |
Gary what were you focusing on in the images? Do you happen to remember the camera setting? |
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std
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 09 Feb 2010 Posts: 1826 Location: Bulgaria
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Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:09 am Post subject: |
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std wrote:
The Eos 600 came today
I'm so exited - it's a such fine camera and in very good condition.
Huge viewfinder, nice shutter, metal mount, perfect grip, Illuminated lcd,and it rewinds the film very fast.
Those are the best spent 9 GBP
I have one m42/eos adapter left and if it meters properly this should be my best m42 camera.
I have red somewhere that the focusing screens are exchangeable and the stock one can replaced with the one having micro prisms. I doubt i can find the original made from Canon.
Do you think i can use some of the cheap Chinese ones offered in ebay? _________________ Stefan
My lens list:
SLR MD: Rokkor 1,7/50 Exakta: Kilfitt-Makro-Kilar E 3.5/4cm; CZJ 2/50 Pancolar;M42: CZJ 2.8/50 Tessar; Mir-1B 2.8/37; Jupiter-9 2/85 T-mount: Tamron 5.9/200; Tamron 6.9/300; Tamron 7.5/400 C-mount: Cosmicar 1.8/50 Y/S: Sun 3.5/38-90, Sun 4/70-210 RF Contax RF: Jupiter-8 2/50; Contax G:CZ 2,8/21 Biogon T; CZ 2,8/28 Biogon T; CZ 2/35 Planar T; CZ 2/45 Planar T; CZ 2,8/90 Sonnar T |
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std
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 09 Feb 2010 Posts: 1826 Location: Bulgaria
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Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 4:52 pm Post subject: |
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std wrote:
After playing a bit with EOS 600 i must say i like it a lot. It reminds me of my old 30D. The camera is faaast - in continuous mode it has 5 frames per second!!!
It even has exposure bracketing and custom functions.
I think i found out how to get the metering properly. If you switch to Aperture priority mode and set aperture to 1.0 the shutter speeds are right.
The only thing which worries me is a oily stain on the shutter blades. _________________ Stefan
My lens list:
SLR MD: Rokkor 1,7/50 Exakta: Kilfitt-Makro-Kilar E 3.5/4cm; CZJ 2/50 Pancolar;M42: CZJ 2.8/50 Tessar; Mir-1B 2.8/37; Jupiter-9 2/85 T-mount: Tamron 5.9/200; Tamron 6.9/300; Tamron 7.5/400 C-mount: Cosmicar 1.8/50 Y/S: Sun 3.5/38-90, Sun 4/70-210 RF Contax RF: Jupiter-8 2/50; Contax G:CZ 2,8/21 Biogon T; CZ 2,8/28 Biogon T; CZ 2/35 Planar T; CZ 2/45 Planar T; CZ 2,8/90 Sonnar T |
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cooltouch
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 7:57 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Stefan,
That oily stain on the shutter blades may actually be a sticky residue from a piece of foam that is down at the bottom of where the shutter sits. It tends to wick its way up on the blades and gum them up, causing problems with the shutter sticking or capping.
I have successfully cleaned the blades on two different 35mm EOS cameras using isopropyl alcohol and a handful of Q-tip cotton swabs. It's time consuming, but it works -- if it isn't just some oily residue, that is. Either way, you can give this a try. Moisten the cotton tip in the alcohol and then wipe it gently on the back side of the shutter with the back open. Wait for the alcohol to evaporate completely, then fire the shutter several times. Often what you'll see is more of this stuff beginning to appear. So repeat the process: wipe down the shutter blades, wait for the alcohol to evaporate and then fire the shutter several times. Keep doing this until, no matter how many times you fire the shutter, the residue doesn't reappear. When doing this, sometimes I would hold the mirror up and check the insides of the blades. If they showed residue, then I'd wipe them down too.
There's another way to do this that I haven't tried yet, but it's something that the repair guys do. They'll cut a business card up into strips and then push a strip down between the shutter and the place where the goo is coming from to clean it out. In addition to cleaning the blades, I'm sure. This is probably a better long term solution. I didn't read about it until I'd alreadly cleaned the blades on those two EOS cameras. But if I need to again, that's what I'll do next time.
UPDATE: I have since learned that the preferred solvent for cleaning the gunk from shutter blades is naphtha, aka lighter fluid. Naphtha evaporates, leaving no residue, whereas isopropyl alcohol, even the 91% like I have, leaves a small amount of water behind, which can lead to corrosion and other problems. I buy quart cans of naphtha from the big box stores for about $6 per, enough to last me several lifetimes for this purpose, but I do use it for other things, like a paint thinner. Next time I have to clean a shutter, I'll be using naphtha. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/
Last edited by cooltouch on Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:46 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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std
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 09 Feb 2010 Posts: 1826 Location: Bulgaria
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Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 10:43 am Post subject: |
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std wrote:
Thanks Michael,
I think this is the exact problem, except that mine is going from top to bottom on the left side. It's definitely not oil - only looks like but it's sticky.
I will try to clean it with alcohol and see what happens.
This is not proper repair I've been told, if doing it properly the blades have to be removed and cleaned and also the shutter assembly have to be cleaned from the residue. The quote for this repair is quite too much especially compared to the price for which i got the camera. So let see ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) _________________ Stefan
My lens list:
SLR MD: Rokkor 1,7/50 Exakta: Kilfitt-Makro-Kilar E 3.5/4cm; CZJ 2/50 Pancolar;M42: CZJ 2.8/50 Tessar; Mir-1B 2.8/37; Jupiter-9 2/85 T-mount: Tamron 5.9/200; Tamron 6.9/300; Tamron 7.5/400 C-mount: Cosmicar 1.8/50 Y/S: Sun 3.5/38-90, Sun 4/70-210 RF Contax RF: Jupiter-8 2/50; Contax G:CZ 2,8/21 Biogon T; CZ 2,8/28 Biogon T; CZ 2/35 Planar T; CZ 2/45 Planar T; CZ 2,8/90 Sonnar T |
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cooltouch
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 4:10 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
It might not be the "proper" repair, but repair techs know that people aren't gonna pay a lot for the "proper" repair, so they come up with inventive alternatives. The card trick essentially removes all the offending goo from where it originates so the problems shouldn't reappear. It's a much quicker and less costly repair, so it's something their customers are likely to accept.
In any case, even if you do just use my method, and the shutter blades stay clean for a while and then, say, several months later, the sticky stuff reappears, well, no big deal. Just get out the alcohol and swabs and clean it again. It beats paying for a repair that likely costs many more times than the camera is worth. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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std
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 09 Feb 2010 Posts: 1826 Location: Bulgaria
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Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 5:56 pm Post subject: |
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std wrote:
Well for now I'm satisfied..it's gone for now.
If it will reappear i will clean it again.
I hope the shutter speed will not be affected too much by my cleaning intervention.
PS:
It turns that the shutter was not opening before I have cleaned it today.
From 24 frames test roll (i was testing the exposure which looks fine ) I got only 3 half's ..like this.
The rest were just not exposed. _________________ Stefan
My lens list:
SLR MD: Rokkor 1,7/50 Exakta: Kilfitt-Makro-Kilar E 3.5/4cm; CZJ 2/50 Pancolar;M42: CZJ 2.8/50 Tessar; Mir-1B 2.8/37; Jupiter-9 2/85 T-mount: Tamron 5.9/200; Tamron 6.9/300; Tamron 7.5/400 C-mount: Cosmicar 1.8/50 Y/S: Sun 3.5/38-90, Sun 4/70-210 RF Contax RF: Jupiter-8 2/50; Contax G:CZ 2,8/21 Biogon T; CZ 2,8/28 Biogon T; CZ 2/35 Planar T; CZ 2/45 Planar T; CZ 2,8/90 Sonnar T |
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cooltouch
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 9:41 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
I had exactly that problem with my old Rebel -- it's called "capping." It went away once I cleaned the shutter. A good way to test if the shutter is capping or not is to remove the lens, open the back and looking at the shutter, point it at a TV (I dunno about HD flat screens if it works or not, I'm talking about just a regular old TV) and trip the shutter. Slow speeds are not a problem to see how it's working -- it's the faster ones that are hard to tell about. If it's capping, you'll see it based on the amount of the TV image that gets shown. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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iangreenhalgh1
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2011 11:18 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
That will work with a flat screen as well as they have a refresh rate too, it will work with a PC monitor too. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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std
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 09 Feb 2010 Posts: 1826 Location: Bulgaria
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Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 6:47 pm Post subject: |
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std wrote:
Does any of you guys know if the latest EMF chips work with those old film cameras or they are only for the digital EOS-es?
I've glued the chip onto my eos-m42 adapter but it turns the EOS 600 doesn't care about it. It doesn't change anything regardless if the chip is on the adapter or not. _________________ Stefan
My lens list:
SLR MD: Rokkor 1,7/50 Exakta: Kilfitt-Makro-Kilar E 3.5/4cm; CZJ 2/50 Pancolar;M42: CZJ 2.8/50 Tessar; Mir-1B 2.8/37; Jupiter-9 2/85 T-mount: Tamron 5.9/200; Tamron 6.9/300; Tamron 7.5/400 C-mount: Cosmicar 1.8/50 Y/S: Sun 3.5/38-90, Sun 4/70-210 RF Contax RF: Jupiter-8 2/50; Contax G:CZ 2,8/21 Biogon T; CZ 2,8/28 Biogon T; CZ 2/35 Planar T; CZ 2/45 Planar T; CZ 2,8/90 Sonnar T |
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cooltouch
![Level 4 Level 4](rating4.gif) Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 8:23 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
It might be because yours is one of the 600-series EOS cameras. Canon changed its camera-to-lens electronic interface sometime after the 600 series. Might this be why? _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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mrken
Joined: 12 Aug 2011 Posts: 44 Location: Bangkok, Thailand
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Posted: Fri Aug 12, 2011 3:27 pm Post subject: I have an EOS 300 / yashica 50mm. F2 |
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mrken wrote:
I have an EOS 300 / yashica 50mm. F2 _________________ Only Film Camera
Photograph By Adul Krasobthong
Thailand |
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NewStuff
![Level 3 Level 3](rating3.gif) Joined: 31 Mar 2011 Posts: 847 Location: Wales, UK
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Posted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 10:33 am Post subject: |
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NewStuff wrote:
Ohhh... EOS Film thread.
I have the Original EOS1, with grip. It's a weighty beast (8x AA Batteries!), and cost me by far the most money I have paid for a body. It's been rock solid, never missed a beat, and gets regular use, and was used by the Local Papers photographer for many years before I got it. It currently sports a roll of Ilford FP4, and up next is some Superia or XP2, I've not decided which to shoot yet. I'll put a picture up later on. I love it, and will never part with it.
I also have, out on long term loan to someone, an EOS 650. The cut off corner (T70/90ish I seem to remember) bugs me to no end for some reason. Many good pictures out of it though. I also think I have an EOS10 kicking around somewhere, but i may have sold that for spares, as I remember the shutter was afflicted with the Foam coming loose and gumming up the works. By that time I had the EOS1 as a backup to my D60, and just didn't have the time to invest to fix it. _________________ Too many to list. |
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