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WolverineX
Joined: 19 Apr 2009 Posts: 1694 Location: Zagreb , Croatia , Europe
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Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 3:44 pm Post subject: can this be cleaned? |
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WolverineX wrote:
need a rather quick answer...can it be cleaned? if it can i'll go for it and buy it , it's rather cheap , and clean it _________________ my tools:Oly E-M5 + 45mm/1.8 + Oly E-520 + 12-60 + 14-42 + 70-300 + Sigma 105mm + FL-50R + EC20 + SRF-11 ring flash
http://forum.mflenses.com/wolverinex-testing-my-lenses-series-link-list-t39524.html |
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indianadinos
Joined: 06 Jul 2008 Posts: 1310 Location: Toulouse, France
Expire: 2011-12-05
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Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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indianadinos wrote:
Well, maybe with some cold cream, but not sure at 100 % ... Do you have an idea about how long the lens has lasted in such conditions ? _________________ Please visit my blogs Shooting with a Pentax K10D / FF Visions
Takumar: 24/3.5, 28/3.5, 35/2, 35/3.5, 50/1.4, 55/1.8, 85/1.8, 105/2.8, 120/2.8, 135/3.5, 150/4, 200/4
Pentax-K: M28/2.8, K28/3.5, M50/1.4, A50/1.7, M50/4 Macro, K85/1.8, K105/2.8, K135/2.5, M200/4, M70-150/4
Zeiss: Flektogon 20/2.8, 20/4, 35/2.4, 35/2.8, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Biotar 58/2, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer: Primagon 35/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Trioplan 100/2.8, Orestor 100/2.8, Orestor 135/2.8
Schacht/Steinheil: Travenar 90/2.8, Travenon 135/4.5, Quinar 135/2.8, Quinar 135/3.5
Russian: MIR 37B, Industar 50/3.5, Helios 44M & 44M-2, Jupiter 37A
P6: Flektogon 50/4, Biometar 80/2.8, Orestor 300/4
Nikkor: Nikkor-O 35/2, Micro 55/3.5, Nikkor-S 50/1.4, Nikkor-Q 135/2.8
Fuji: EBC 28/3.5, EBC 55/3.5 Macro, EBC 135/2.5
Misc Lenses: Kiron 105/2.8 Macro, Tamron SP90/2.5
... and a few other Vivitar, Tamron, Sigma and Soligor lenses ...
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no-X
Joined: 19 Jul 2008 Posts: 2495 Location: Budejky, Czech Republic
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Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 7:48 pm Post subject: |
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no-X wrote:
It depends really on many factors. None of my repairmen is able to say when I show him a lens, if it will be possible to clean it.
It depends, if the fungus is on the coating, in the coating or between the coating and glass. And it also depends on the way of cleaning. One of the servicemen is able to remove fraction of the coating layer, which is damaged, and retain the rest, which is fine. But it works only if the coating is solid and fungus is on it, not between the glass and coating... _________________ (almost) complete list of Helios lenses |
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aoleg
Joined: 22 Feb 2008 Posts: 1389 Location: Berlin, DE
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Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 10:38 pm Post subject: |
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aoleg wrote:
I would only get this lens if really, really cheap (under $10). While mold on the front glass may be cleanable, you have no way of knowing whether the rest of the lens is affected. Zooms are a pain to fix except of simple things (like removing and cleaning the front glass for example). If uncleanable, at least you'll have a source of small screws and springs - they'll come handy when fixing your next lens. _________________ List of lenses |
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WolverineX
Joined: 19 Apr 2009 Posts: 1694 Location: Zagreb , Croatia , Europe
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Posted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 9:53 am Post subject: |
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WolverineX wrote:
aoleg wrote: |
I would only get this lens if really, really cheap (under $10). |
it's about 16$ , it's tokina made vivitar 70-210mm/3.5
aoleg wrote: |
While mold on the front glass may be cleanable, you have no way of knowing whether the rest of the lens is affected. Zooms are a pain to fix except of simple things (like removing and cleaning the front glass for example). If uncleanable, at least you'll have a source of small screws and springs - they'll come handy when fixing your next lens. |
it's just inside of the front lens that's affected other glass elements are clean , at least they seem to be on the pix _________________ my tools:Oly E-M5 + 45mm/1.8 + Oly E-520 + 12-60 + 14-42 + 70-300 + Sigma 105mm + FL-50R + EC20 + SRF-11 ring flash
http://forum.mflenses.com/wolverinex-testing-my-lenses-series-link-list-t39524.html |
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estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008 Posts: 3754 Location: Argentina
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Posted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 3:02 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
In my experience you have to consider:
1. If the price is very low. When the seller obtain less money by the lens, because it has fungus, it's may be a problem. If the lens is easy to be fixed (or cleaned) the seller should do that and can obtain more money.
2. When the price is something lower (but no much) than a good copy. It can be easy to be cleaned of fungus. So the price don't be so lower.
3. That is adecuate for fungus and haze in lenses. With other problems, not right.
Rino. _________________ Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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Big Dawg
Joined: 28 Jan 2009 Posts: 2530 Location: Thach Alabama
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Posted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 3:39 pm Post subject: |
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Big Dawg wrote:
A 50-50 chance it can be cleaned.
If it can be cleaned you will enjoy it and feel lucky in getting such a good lens for such a small price.
If it won't clean up you'll feel cheated and have bad feelings about that lens as long as you have it.
You must decide if it is worth the cost and effort to buy it, clean it and use it. I have done so in the past as a learning experience and to try different remedies for removing fungus from a lens. I got a Group 3 70-210 series one with fungus almost totally covering the front lens and it cleaned right up (Cold cream does work). I got a 70-205 Vivitar with a spot in the middle and it wouldn't clean up at all. I found a donor lens for parts and replaced the front element and now have a pristine 70-205.
Again it is your decision but it still is a 50-50 proposition. Good luck my friend. _________________ Big Dawg |
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WolverineX
Joined: 19 Apr 2009 Posts: 1694 Location: Zagreb , Croatia , Europe
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Posted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 6:28 pm Post subject: |
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WolverineX wrote:
i let the lens slide...so no need to clean it, thanx anyway for the inputs _________________ my tools:Oly E-M5 + 45mm/1.8 + Oly E-520 + 12-60 + 14-42 + 70-300 + Sigma 105mm + FL-50R + EC20 + SRF-11 ring flash
http://forum.mflenses.com/wolverinex-testing-my-lenses-series-link-list-t39524.html |
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