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Are metal tanks darkroom only?
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PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 4:39 pm    Post subject: Are metal tanks darkroom only? Reply with quote
I'm looking at small metal processing tanks (one 120 reel or 2x 35mm)and I am struck by tha absence of a central column. Can these be used in a normal room or does light get in while you are adding and changing chemicals? I've only used Patterson tanks in the past, loading the film in a changing bag.

Secondly, have 35mm film canisters changed at all? I keep seeing references to special can openers. We used to open them by squeezing the can slightly and pressing down on the protruding rod - pop! off comes the top. Doesn't that work any longer?


PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hi, there.
I've no direct experience with stainless steel tanks. As far as I know you are correct, they have no central column. It's just the tank itself, the reel(s), a T shaped suspension rod (basically a bended wire) and the lid. According to my darkroom books the processing can be done in main light, but the filling and draining of the chems has to be done in full darkness.
Concerning the 35mm cassettes it's possible to pop them open the way you said, otherwise you can use any bottle opener suitable for crown caps. I do the latter, it works for me 100% of the time.

Cheers, M.-


PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thanks, Marty. So I'll stick to the old Patterson tanks and the changing bag, then, since I don't have a darkroom.


PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
marty wrote:
Concerning the 35mm cassettes it's possible to pop them open the way you said, otherwise you can use any bottle opener suitable for crown caps. I do the latter, it works for me 100% of the time.

Cheers, M.-

Marty & Paul, if you leave the leader sticking out of the canister when you rewind, there's no need to remove the top at all. I've never ever had to do that. Just stop rewinding when you feel or hear the film pull out of the takeup spool. The short length of full width film still outside the canister has already been exposed when you loaded it.

This has another advantage because you can cut the leader off and snip the corners off the film in the light. Put a pair of scissors in the changing bag and cut the film at the canister slot when you reach the end.


PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Stainless tanks are light proof. I swapped my plastic reels for stainless ones as I heard they were easier to load. I have found the opposite and now use a film apron.

I either leave the leader out or I use a tool for retrieving the film; It works reasonably well and if not I resort to a bottle opener.


PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
As already said above, steel tanks are lightproof, or at least my Kindermann tanks are. Smile

Once you learn the trick to loading them they are much more reliable than plastic reels, and can be used even when not fully dry.

And the trick is basically this: don't use the reel to pull the film, push the film inside the reel and let it turn by itself. And after every push, move the film forwards/backwards a little to make sure it's sitting properly.


PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Hi, Peter.
peterqd wrote:
Marty & Paul, if you leave the leader sticking out of the canister when you rewind, there's no need to remove the top at all. I've never ever had to do that. Just stop rewinding when you feel or hear the film pull out of the takeup spool. The short length of full width film still outside the canister has already been exposed when you loaded it.

This has another advantage because you can cut the leader off and snip the corners off the film in the light. Put a pair of scissors in the changing bag and cut the film at the canister slot when you reach the end.

That's true and a good practice, but only works with manual rewind cameras. My T90, for example, rewinds automatically at the end of the roll, all the way inside the canister.

Cheers, M.-


PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
marty wrote:
hat's true and a good practice, but only works with manual rewind cameras. My T90, for example, rewinds automatically at the end of the roll, all the way inside the canister.

Get one of those little gadgets that pull the leader back out of the cassette.


PostPosted: Fri May 28, 2010 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ah, I don't have anything so sophisticated as that! Smile


PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 2:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I still have two film aprons for 120 if anybody wants them. Paul, I got
my Paterson tank and reels off ebay for a fraction of what Freestyle
sells them.


PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I've tried using Kodacraft aprons, they certainly are a lot easier than loading reels. But I don't like the tanks - the lids leak like crazy, even with the cap on. (That's liquid, not light! Smile) Inverting is a no-no.

Anyone know if you can use aprons OK in a Paterson tank? I never tried it because I can't get the metal weight (which keeps the film inside the apron) to fit over the central spindle.


PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
alex wrote:
Get one of those little gadgets that pull the leader back out of the cassette.

I keep forgetting to add it to my shopping cart every time I place an order of photographic materials Smile.


PostPosted: Sat May 29, 2010 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
peterqd wrote:

Anyone know if you can use aprons OK in a Paterson tank? I never tried it because I can't get the metal weight (which keeps the film inside the apron) to fit over the central spindle.


Peter, the little bumps on the sides of the apron should keep the film in
place, I wouldn't do vigorous agitation, though. I would use more than
500ml of developer, etc, as the apron won't displace as much as the
reel.


PostPosted: Sun May 30, 2010 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
peterqd wrote:
I've tried using Kodacraft aprons, they certainly are a lot easier than loading reels. But I don't like the tanks - the lids leak like crazy, even with the cap on. (That's liquid, not light! Smile) Inverting is a no-no.

Anyone know if you can use aprons OK in a Paterson tank? I never tried it because I can't get the metal weight (which keeps the film inside the apron) to fit over the central spindle.

Peter - I use a 35mm stainless tank from Calumet with a 35mm apron. The tank is a perfect size to not need anything to weigh it down.

I bought it to use with a stainless reel but I cannot get the hang of it. Just as I got used to the plastic ons. Rolling Eyes
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