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anyone used ROR before? any worth it?
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2023 10:16 pm    Post subject: anyone used ROR before? any worth it? Reply with quote
http://www.ror.net/
Is it worth it ,or just better keep using isopropyl alcohol and zippo fluid?


PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2023 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
looking at the bad grammar and spelling and the fact that the copyright info on the page is about 6 years old I'd give it a miss for that reason.

Mild detergent solution will clean 'residual oil' off anything, it's precisely what it's made for. Alcohol works too and dries off. Zippo fluid does too but it can flow into extremely small gaps, it may affect greases or plastics.


PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2023 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
http://www.ror.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/Material-Safety-Data-Sheet-2019.pdf

Quote:

Section 2-Hazardous Ingredients/Identity Information
Hazardous Components (Specific Chemical Identity: Common Names)
Ammonia 26° 0.775% % Non Hazardous
Sodium Chloride 0.830% % Non Hazardous
Isopropyl Alcohol 4.266% % Non Hazardous
Liquid Soap 9.011% % Non Hazardous
Distilled Water 85.118% % Non Hazardous


PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2023 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Thank you ,I've just seen being recommended on another forum and was wondering if people around here definitely would know it(use it), seems it's a waste of time and money.


PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2023 5:15 am    Post subject: Re: anyone used ROR before? any worth it? Reply with quote
kiddo wrote:
http://www.ror.net/
Is it worth it ,or just better keep using isopropyl alcohol and zippo fluid?


For what, exactly?

Isopropyl alcohol usually works fine for cleaning lubricants from plastics and metals
non-destructively. I look for a 90% solution, found easily at my local grocery store
in the pharmacy or beauty care sections.
It's rather benign, as it's used commonly as a topical cleanser for human skin.
It is considered a solvent, and it even cleans up the residue of some of the
2-part resin epoxy formulations I frequently use in my work.

Ammonia is an excellent ingredient in a solution to flush and clean ink from printer cartridges
for reuse and refilling.
In the US, Windex cleaning fluid is perfect for this.
Ammonia is an offensive odor to most people, and may degrade paints or other finishes
if not rinsed clean.
Ammonia must never be mixed with any form of Chlorine;
the resulting gases can be fatal!

Napthalene, which is similar to kerosene, carries a fuel smell, but is rather gentle
in most cases, and carries some oils within it. It can be good for reviving a sheen
and pliability to some rubbers and plastics.
It's also sold as common paint thinner for alkyd paints, and was the basis for Zippo fluid,
last time I checked. Napthalene from a hardware or home store is far more pure
than Zippo lighter fluid.
It can also dissolve some inks and paints, so test and use cautiously.

Stay away from Acetone.
It dissolves most plastics, and turns some rubber compositions into a gooey mess,
and is likely to dissolve lens coatings. It's a high-strength solvent, and evaporates
very quickly. It's frequently used to release and dissolve high-strength rubber
contact cement, which is commonly used to bond high-pressure laminate materials
to substrates, such as kitchen and bathroom countertops.
It gives off toxic fumes which must be ventilated, and is highly flammable.
Using large amounts of Acetone in a small unventilated space can render a grown
man unconscious in a short time.


PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2023 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I use ROR mostly - 99%- for filters.
First is ROR then comes eclipse.
Very good stuff.


PostPosted: Mon Jun 19, 2023 7:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Resurrecting this thread because the folks who pooh-poohed this stuff have obviously never tried it.

It is absolutely the BEST lens cleaning solution there is, bar none, by a wide margin. It is significantly better than Zeiss or Eclipse, and MUCH, MUCH, MUCH better than zippo or isopropyl, which are only really useful for getting the first pass of grease and scuzz off a dirty lens. Even if it looks pretty clean after several wipes, they always leave a little bit of residue behind, and you can see the difference if you follow them with ROR, doing a flashlight test at each step.

As long as you follow the directions (use one spray to dampen a lens wipe, wipe the surface gently, wipe dry, then fog it up with your breath and wipe it again), it leaves surfaces so clean that the dust won't even stick to it, and a couple of puffs with a rocket blower will leave the surface immaculate.

I use it every day on my eyeglasses, too.

I'm not affiliated with them in any way, I just really am impressed by their product, and I've tried just about all the cleaners out there, as well as various lens pens. One bottle, and a box of Kimwipes, and you'll be good to go for a looooong time. I am constantly repairing lenses, and a bottle usually lasts a couple of months, even with my high level of use.


PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2023 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Reading through all the above comments, a few observations:

visualopsins wrote:
http://www.ror.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/Material-Safety-Data-Sheet-2019.pdf

Quote:

Section 2-Hazardous Ingredients/Identity Information
Hazardous Components (Specific Chemical Identity: Common Names)
Ammonia 26° 0.775% % Non Hazardous
Sodium Chloride 0.830% % Non Hazardous
Isopropyl Alcohol 4.266% % Non Hazardous
Liquid Soap 9.011% % Non Hazardous
Distilled Water 85.118% % Non Hazardous


Looking at the ingredients, I would find it hard to believe this doesn't leave a residue; maybe someone with relevant experience in chemistry can confirm? As I understand it the ammonia component will fully evaporate, the isopropyl alcohol will form an azeotrope with the distilled water and both will fully evaporate, but won't the liquid soap and sodium chloride leave a residue? Or is there something else happening (other than bring the contaminants into solution of course).
Caveat: I haven't used ROR and have no experience with it, so it may well be as good as it is claimed to be.

SkedAddled wrote:
...
Stay away from Acetone.
It dissolves most plastics, and turns some rubber compositions into a gooey mess,
and is likely to dissolve lens coatings. It's a high-strength solvent, and evaporates
very quickly. It's frequently used to release and dissolve high-strength rubber
contact cement, which is commonly used to bond high-pressure laminate materials
to substrates, such as kitchen and bathroom countertops.
It gives off toxic fumes which must be ventilated, and is highly flammable.
Using large amounts of Acetone in a small unventilated space can render a grown
man unconscious in a short time.


Acetone is not likely to dissolve traditional hard lens coatings applied by sputtering or vapor-depositing, such as ones based on magnesium fluoride, calcium fluoride and metal oxides. I would be far more worried about its effect on more recent coatings with oleophobic properties.

Re. the toxicity of acetone; methylene chloride (dichloromethane) was banned for sale to the general public in the EU for similar reasons, but acetone is far less dangerous (our bodies actually produce some). Bear in mind when people apply or remove nail varnish they regularly fill a room (or train carriage Rolling Eyes ) with acetone fumes. Not that I am advocating doing that, but we are not hearing about millions of annual deaths from limited casual exposure to acetone fumes when removing nail varnish. Directly inhaling it as an alternative to glue-sniffing is a completely different and far more dangerous matter. Used in very small quantities for wiping clean one or two lens surfaces is perfectly fine. If you are using a bit more as part of servicing an entire lens, then ensure some decent ventilation.

Water can be dangerous too when misused, but we can't start banning every conceivably dangerous solvent, lest we end up having to hire a trained specialist to safely brew us a cup of tea.


PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2023 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
BrianSVP wrote:
Resurrecting this thread because the folks who pooh-poohed this stuff have obviously never tried it.

It is absolutely the BEST lens cleaning solution there is, bar none, by a wide margin. It is significantly better than Zeiss or Eclipse, and MUCH, MUCH, MUCH better than zippo or isopropyl, which are only really useful for getting the first pass of grease and scuzz off a dirty lens. Even if it looks pretty clean after several wipes, they always leave a little bit of residue behind, and you can see the difference if you follow them with ROR, doing a flashlight test at each step.

As long as you follow the directions (use one spray to dampen a lens wipe, wipe the surface gently, wipe dry, then fog it up with your breath and wipe it again), it leaves surfaces so clean that the dust won't even stick to it, and a couple of puffs with a rocket blower will leave the surface immaculate.

I use it every day on my eyeglasses, too.

I'm not affiliated with them in any way, I just really am impressed by their product, and I've tried just about all the cleaners out there, as well as various lens pens. One bottle, and a box of Kimwipes, and you'll be good to go for a looooong time. I am constantly repairing lenses, and a bottle usually lasts a couple of months, even with my high level of use.



You are correct, Brian, I for one haven't tried it but, now, looking at the data sheet the ingredients are a very simple glass cleaner formula.

Ammonia 0.775% to help it evaporate quickly leaving no residue
Sodium Chloride 0.833% to soften the water
Isopropyl alcohol 4.266% to dissolve the grease
Liquid soap 9.011% (depending on what the legal definition of soap is) to remove surface tension
Distilled water 85.118% as a residue free carrier for the above

Harmless and intelligently selected ingredients.

This is omething that you could probably make at home. The soap, depending on the type may leave its own residue and table salt can contain iodine, i'm not sure if that leaves a residue but the alcohol content may deal with it.

I still stand by my comments about the website's awful spelling and grammar. It cheapens the whole thiing and puts me off.

This of course could be used for surfaces other than glass as the solvents in it add up to approximately only 5% of the solution. Harmless in most cases.

http://www.ror.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/Material-Safety-Data-Sheet-2019.pdf


PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2023 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yes, I was incredulous when I first tried it too, as the ingredients really look little different from any number of glass cleaners, but I was truly blown away when I saw how it worked. They've really struck upon a very effective formulation for removing the kinds of oils and dirt that tend to accumulate on camera lenses.

I swear by the stuff. There's literally a bottle sitting in front of me on my desk as I type this.



philslizzy wrote:
BrianSVP wrote:
Resurrecting this thread because the folks who pooh-poohed this stuff have obviously never tried it.

It is absolutely the BEST lens cleaning solution there is, bar none, by a wide margin. It is significantly better than Zeiss or Eclipse, and MUCH, MUCH, MUCH better than zippo or isopropyl, which are only really useful for getting the first pass of grease and scuzz off a dirty lens. Even if it looks pretty clean after several wipes, they always leave a little bit of residue behind, and you can see the difference if you follow them with ROR, doing a flashlight test at each step.

As long as you follow the directions (use one spray to dampen a lens wipe, wipe the surface gently, wipe dry, then fog it up with your breath and wipe it again), it leaves surfaces so clean that the dust won't even stick to it, and a couple of puffs with a rocket blower will leave the surface immaculate.

I use it every day on my eyeglasses, too.

I'm not affiliated with them in any way, I just really am impressed by their product, and I've tried just about all the cleaners out there, as well as various lens pens. One bottle, and a box of Kimwipes, and you'll be good to go for a looooong time. I am constantly repairing lenses, and a bottle usually lasts a couple of months, even with my high level of use.



You are correct, Brian, I for one haven't tried it but, now, looking at the data sheet the ingredients are a very simple glass cleaner formula.

Ammonia 0.775% to help it evaporate quickly leaving no residue
Sodium Chloride 0.833% to soften the water
Isopropyl alcohol 4.266% to dissolve the grease
Liquid soap 9.011% (depending on what the legal definition of soap is) to remove surface tension
Distilled water 85.118% as a residue free carrier for the above

Harmless and intelligently selected ingredients.

This is omething that you could probably make at home. The soap, depending on the type may leave its own residue and table salt can contain iodine, i'm not sure if that leaves a residue but the alcohol content may deal with it.

I still stand by my comments about the website's awful spelling and grammar. It cheapens the whole thiing and puts me off.

This of course could be used for surfaces other than glass as the solvents in it add up to approximately only 5% of the solution. Harmless in most cases.

http://www.ror.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/Material-Safety-Data-Sheet-2019.pdf
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2023 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
How to wash baby's face? A damp wash cloth only. Or perhaps a tiny bit of



After you wouldn't use ROR or Eclipse on baby face, but on lens the three work well.


PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2023 12:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ha, I remember years ago laughing out loud when I saw someone in an online argument refer to their opponent's rant as "like something you'd read on the side of a Dr. Bronner's Bottle."

visualopsins wrote:
How to wash baby's face? A damp wash cloth only. Or perhaps a tiny bit of



After you wouldn't use ROR or Eclipse on baby face, but on lens the three work well.


PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2023 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
BrianSVP wrote:
Ha, I remember years ago laughing out loud when I saw someone in an online argument refer to their opponent's rant as "like something you'd read on the side of a Dr. Bronner's Bottle."


Laugh 1

I do often use liquid soap flor cleaning lens elements during a full lens repair (after removing the glass elements). It also works wonders for cleaning other dirty lens parts such as focus helicoids, focus grips, name rings, etc.

I haven't tried moral teachings yet though; it may help keep a clear conscience, but not sure about dust & fingerprints... Wink


PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2023 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
I do, too. My go-to is Dawn dish washing liquid, as it's the best I've tried at removing oily residue, although I always follow with an ROR wipe as well.
On helicals, I use it with a sprinkle of Oxi-Clean powder, which is an extremely effective combo when used with a toothbrush, especially an ultrasonic one.
For disassembled barrel components, I use soft scrub liquid and a toothbrush, which is great at removing scuzz and brightening the lettering. It does have some abrasives in it, though, so I avoid using it on anything optical or in the helical.

RokkorDoctor wrote:
BrianSVP wrote:
Ha, I remember years ago laughing out loud when I saw someone in an online argument refer to their opponent's rant as "like something you'd read on the side of a Dr. Bronner's Bottle."


Laugh 1

I do often use liquid soap flor cleaning lens elements during a full lens repair (after removing the glass elements). It also works wonders for cleaning other dirty lens parts such as focus helicoids, focus grips, name rings, etc.

I haven't tried moral teachings yet though; it may help keep a clear conscience, but not sure about dust & fingerprints... Wink
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