Manual Focus Lenses Forum

mo · Expire: 2016-07-30

I have been busting to try my Tamron SP500 on a film camera(I have in mind the Pentax MX that came with it)
Is it an easy process using a mirror on a film camera or are there certain things I need to be aware of?.I suppose having the constant F8 is a bonus.
I have 100 Kodak and 400 fuji film and I really would like to try B&W.
Thanks

Nesster · Expire: 2014-02-20

I don't think it is any more complicated than using it with the dSLR, except maybe the metering is better as well as the view finder Laughing

Myself, I'd need the 400 speed unless I used a tripod with something that long.

mo · Expire: 2016-07-30

Jussi ,Thanks...I have a tripod and thankfully the Tamron is not that long.. Very Happy

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cooltouch · Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas

Moira, I'd say that you're already doing a fine job with focusing your Tamron 500, but I'll go ahead and pass along some of the techniques I developed back when I did a lot of photography with my old Sigma 600mm f/8. I've mentioned it here before, but I'll go ahead and mention it again -- at first, I just thought that Sigma was a crappy lens, but I gradually refined my technique with it, and as I did, my photos got better and better.

Of course, my techniques involved the use of film cameras. But then many DSLRs have advantages that my film cameras didn't, like Live View to insure sharp focus, and the better DSLRs also have low noise high ISO values so higher shutter speeds can be used.

I'm not familiar with the MX's meter readout, but chances are it shouldn't be too difficult to come up with an accurate meter reading using it with your mirror lens. I used stop-down metering with my Canons and it was easy enough on those cameras. Hopefully yours will be the same.

The biggest problem I had was focusing at f/8. This was because the cameras I owned at the time had split-image focusing screens, and one or both of the half-circles would be black. So the focusing aids had become focusing hindrances. It was annoying having to focus on a subject that was over to the side of the viewfinder. So, the first thing I did was change out the standard focusing screen to a plain matte screen with no focusing aids at all. I adapted pretty quickly to a plain matte screen and got to where I preferred it. In fact, I still do prefer a plain matte screen over other types.

To further improve focusing, I bought an eyepiece magnifier. It enlarged the central area of the image somewhat and allowed me to achieve more precise focus, but was useful only for stationary subjects, obviously.

Back in those days, I was shooting with manual-exposure, manual-focus cameras, and since the depth of field of a long tele, whether mirror or not, can be very shallow, what I would often do if I were shooting moving subjects is prefocus. I did this specifically when I was shooting motorsports. I would prefocus my lens on a specific spot on the track, then trip the shutter as a race car crossed over it. This usually worked very well. And given that all mirrors (at least all that I know of) are manual focus lenses, it is probably a good idea for the shooter to prefocus whenever possible.

The cameras I used most often had mirror lock-up, which helped to reduce mirror-induced vibration. But this was also good only for stationary subjects.

When I was shooting with my Sigma 600, if I didn't have it mounted on a tripod, I had it mounted on a monopod. I didn't shoot with it freehanded very often, and this was mostly because I always shot slow slide film -- Kodachrome 64 or Fujichrome 100. And when I did shoot freehanded, I was looking for something to rest the lens or my arm(s) against.

Finally, everything I mention above applies pretty much to any long T-mount telephoto where you're stopping the lens down to f/8 or more, not just to mirror lenses.

mo · Expire: 2016-07-30

Thanks Michael
I have experienced the split screen darkness on my Ricohs very hard to focus indeed Very Happy

I don't have the MX with me right now but I am sure someone can comment whether it has the split screen installed or not.
It looks like I am already practicing what you are saying by Pre-focusing, especially useful when I tried to take images of the horse racing in one of my posts about the Tamron.. Very Happy

I have not played with mirror lock up or the magnifying eyepiece...so some new experiences ahead...thanks for the pointers ,I really want to have more keepers than not when I use film.. Very Happy

cooltouch · Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas

Your MX will have a split screen installed from the factory and that's probably the one in the camera, unless a previous owner traded it out with another one. Fortunately your MX takes interchangeable screens. But finding them might be a bit of a trick.

Do you have a manual for your MX? I found a pdf of one over at Butkus's site:

http://www.cameramanuals.org/pentax_pdf/pentax_mx.pdf

It says there are 7 different screens made for the MX, so one of them is bound to be a plain matte screen.

The MX doesn't have mirror lock-up. The KX and LX do -- and I believe the K2 does as well. There's also a trick one can do with most any Pentax with a manual shutter, from what I understand, where with a bit of practice, one can get the mirror to lock up consisstently, even though it isn't supposed to. Here's a quote from a guy named Phil over at apug.org:

The SP II does not have a mirror lockup, but I did learn a trick from a Honeywell Pentax salesman back in the early 70's... With a little practice you can get pretty good at it, too.

With the shutter cocked, lightly tap the shutter release - what you are going for is a 'half release' - you want to release the mirror without releasing the shutter. It may take a few taps - a bit harder each time - to get the knack of it. Once the mirror locks up, press the shutter release and the shutter opens and closes, and the mirror returns to the down position.

And I found this:

The MX does not officially feature mirror lockup. With some practice, however, it is possible with a quick and light tip on the shutter release to raise the mirror and with a subsequent (normal) click to release the shutter. This trick works better on some cameras as on others, and the opinions of the more engineering-inclined MX users are divided as to whether or not this induces additional wear-and-tear on the camera's mechanisms.

Here:

http://kmp.bdimitrov.de/bodies/film_M/MX.html

I tried this just now with my KX, and I couldn't get the mirror to release with a light tap on the shutter button. I was able to get just the mirror to trip, though, by doing it a bit dfferently. I take my index finger, push down on the outside edge of the shutter release, and sort of snap my finger off the release, pushing down a bit further each time before snapping my finger off. After a bit of practice, more times than not, I can get the mirror to prerelease. Still, seems like a good way to waste film. Cool

womble · Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Posts: 987 Location: Hertfordshire

MX focusing screens come up on ebay every so often. You can also use LX focusing screens as they are the same size but they have an impact on the metering (about half a stop I think, but I cannot remember which way Embarassed

).

The camera shake issue with long lenses (by which I think was meant long focal length rather than long physically) is that the slightest movement is magnified in the image. The Tamron, being light and small, tempts people to think they can easily hand hold it and then curse the lens for being no good. Good technique, as outlined in a previous post, is the answer.

I have long wanted one of those lenses (the earlier version with the tripod collar and the filter set) but have yet to put my money where my mouth is!

Have fun. K.

cooltouch · Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas

marty · Joined: 09 Apr 2009 Posts: 767 Location: Italy

Michael, yes the first version of Tamron AD2 500 had a tripod mount. The filters are possible to mount also on the 2nd version (55BB) either on the front (82mm) or the back (30,5mm). They are not included (on the 55BB), except for a back one labeled "normal" which is probably essential part of the optical path (I've never tried to focus without it).
The lacking of a tripod mount on the 55BB has never been a problem to me.
The weigh and size of the lens aren't such to create problems to the mount or unbalance a tripod.

Cheers, M.

mo · Expire: 2016-07-30

Just for anyone reading mine is the early Tamron with tripod mount.I think it can be removed but I have never tried.I did confuse focal length with actual length Embarassed

Thanks for the suggestions about the focusing screens.

womble · Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Posts: 987 Location: Hertfordshire

Yes, I was indeed referring to the 55B rather than the 55BB, more for the set of filters (as I shoot a lot of BW film) than the tripod mount as such. I don't fancy trying to pick-up a set of 88mm (or whatever that size was!) filters which will probably cost more than the lens.

K.

mo · Expire: 2016-07-30

The filters are tiny and fit on the back somehow...I have a tiny screwdriver that came with it but have not been adventurous enough to put a filter in...maybe if I want to try B&W Film I will have to.. Very Happy

marty · Joined: 09 Apr 2009 Posts: 767 Location: Italy

visualopsins · Expire: 2027-07-11

cable release Cool

mo · Expire: 2016-07-30