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kiddo
Joined: 29 Jun 2018 Posts: 1266
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Posted: Thu May 02, 2024 11:40 am Post subject: very stubborn helicoid |
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kiddo wrote:
I've got this 1.4 DX yashinon very cheap because the lens was totally locked , I could open it all the way to the helicoid but this one it won't move at all. I've soaked it in acetone to see if it will release hopefully, but I do see lots of residue releasing, could it be some kind of glue? Just checked it out and it is some kind of very very sticky glue
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021 Posts: 1424 Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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Posted: Thu May 02, 2024 7:11 pm Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
Well, if it releases and you can remove it all I think there's no need to worry about what it was.
Glue is unlikely but maybe a poor quality grease of which some of the components have polymerised/cross-linked due to long exposure to oxygen? Maybe one of our resident chemists can jump in here? (I am not a chemist but I have seen base oils separated out of helicoid grease turn into a sort of thin "plastic" film in old ROKKOR lenses, a film that even acetone has trouble removing)
EDIT: another (albeit unlikely) possibility is that the original grease had lithium stearate as a thickener (very common), and someone decided to "refresh" the grease by adding some polyurea-thickener-based grease. In general those two don't like each other very much and tend to harden when mixed, although there are exceptions. _________________ Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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kiddo
Joined: 29 Jun 2018 Posts: 1266
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Posted: Thu May 02, 2024 8:34 pm Post subject: |
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kiddo wrote:
RokkorDoctor wrote: |
Well, if it releases and you can remove it all I think there's no need to worry about what it was.
Glue is unlikely but maybe a poor quality grease of which some of the components have polymerised/cross-linked due to long exposure to oxygen? Maybe one of our resident chemists can jump in here? (I am not a chemist but I have seen base oils separated out of helicoid grease turn into a sort of thin "plastic" film in old ROKKOR lenses, a film that even acetone has trouble removing)
EDIT: another (albeit unlikely) possibility is that the original grease had lithium stearate as a thickener (very common), and someone decided to "refresh" the grease by adding some polyurea-thickener-based grease. In general those two don't like each other very much and tend to harden when mixed, although there are exceptions. |
unfortunately it didn´t work , so i´m planning to soak it in gasoline to see the result , another option would be to heat it, but i´m not sure about it regardin alluminum and brass |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7794 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Thu May 02, 2024 10:50 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
Boil it, the temperature won't hurt either metal and the different coefficient of thermal expansion at the same temperature should dislodge it. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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kiddo
Joined: 29 Jun 2018 Posts: 1266
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Posted: Tue May 07, 2024 9:13 pm Post subject: |
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kiddo wrote:
well , this very stubborn helicoid won´t realese after resting inside of gasoline, neither after heating it up , so ...i have to come out with new ideas |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11022 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Tue May 07, 2024 10:58 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Tap tap tap...to free the jammed metal surfaces. slap it onto a hard flat surface. try sharp taps around the perimeter. use a tool to tap in direction of thread separation. drill some holes for more grip. But before all that have you tried using two strap wrenches? _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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kiddo
Joined: 29 Jun 2018 Posts: 1266
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Posted: Thu May 09, 2024 2:10 pm Post subject: |
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kiddo wrote:
I guess , I've used all the options available with no result, unfortunately. |
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Vercingetorix
Joined: 31 May 2024 Posts: 1 Location: The O.C.
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Posted: Fri May 31, 2024 12:27 pm Post subject: |
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Vercingetorix wrote:
I would try an ultrasonic cleaner. |
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DConvert
Joined: 12 Jun 2010 Posts: 921 Location: Essex UK
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Posted: Fri May 31, 2024 12:56 pm Post subject: |
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DConvert wrote:
kiddo wrote: |
I guess , I've used all the options available with no result, unfortunately. |
Both the solvents you've tried are organics that typically work well dissolving organic substances, but they won't be effective on inorganic materials.
So try leaving it in warm water for a while. This will dissolve many inorganics (such as salt). If you have access to an ultrasonics bath that will improve the cleaning from any solvent, but most people don't have one handy...
I take it there is no visual indication on a dent or other such deformation, if there is you're on a hiding to nothing. |
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kiddo
Joined: 29 Jun 2018 Posts: 1266
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Posted: Sun Jun 02, 2024 8:04 pm Post subject: |
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kiddo wrote:
DConvert wrote: |
kiddo wrote: |
I guess , I've used all the options available with no result, unfortunately. |
Both the solvents you've tried are organics that typically work well dissolving organic substances, but they won't be effective on inorganic materials.
So try leaving it in warm water for a while. This will dissolve many inorganics (such as salt). If you have access to an ultrasonics bath that will improve the cleaning from any solvent, but most people don't have one handy...
I take it there is no visual indication on a dent or other such deformation, if there is you're on a hiding to nothing. |
thanks, i´ve tried that option with hot water with no luck neither |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11022 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sun Jun 02, 2024 8:19 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
"on a hiding to nothing" I had to llok that up! LOL
https://www.phrases.org.uk/meanings/on-a-hiding-to-nothing.html
Quote: |
To be faced with a situation which is pointless, as a successful outcome is impossible. This is usually expressed in terms of a sporting contest in which one of two outcomes is foreseen, either a hiding or nothing. The ‘to’ in the phrase indicates alternative outcomes, as in terms like ‘6 to 1‘ or ‘dollars to doughnuts‘.
The phrase has two applications. One scenario would be that of a team which is expected to win easily but has the betting odds so strongly in its favour that no kudos or reward, that is, ‘nothing’ , would be gained from victory. The other is that of a weak contestant who is expected to be beaten, that is, get ‘a hiding‘. |
_________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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kiddo
Joined: 29 Jun 2018 Posts: 1266
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Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2024 7:54 pm Post subject: |
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kiddo wrote:
no dents, neither deformation , so ´´hiding to nothing´´ still applying lol |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7794 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Mon Jun 03, 2024 11:01 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
I spent many years as a Maintainence Fitter in the sewage treatment industry and seized pipe threads were an everyday problem. One of the tricks I used was to use a big heavy duty clamp and move it around the pipe joint and use enough pressure to distort the pipe joint slightly oval, and keep moving the clamp radially around the joint. The trick is to not permanently distort the pipe joint, just ovalize it enough that it springs back to round.
I would try a small woodworkers F clamp with plastic covered jaw faces, and just 'massage' the helicoid oval and let it spring back, and keep rotating it.
Start VERY LIGHTLY, it should move the two parts. I was using a bloody big clamp and forcing it tight with a length of pipe on the handle, it was brutal - but it worked in places I couldn't use a welding torch or a a BFH ( Big f*****g Hammer ) to achieve the same results. The method works, it's introducing movement into the seized thread. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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