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kiddo
Joined: 29 Jun 2018 Posts: 1275
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Posted: Sun Jun 16, 2024 5:13 pm Post subject: Haze glass |
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kiddo wrote:
Did anyone tried acrylic polymer to treat the hazing of the glass? |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11067 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sun Jun 16, 2024 5:27 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
How would that work? Sorry, I can't imagine how a clear coating would mitigate haze. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021 Posts: 1438 Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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Posted: Sun Jun 16, 2024 8:15 pm Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
On some lenses (poor condition ones for experimenting with) I have noticed that sometimes wiping a thin layer of oil over the surface significantly reduced the visibility of the haze.
At other times wiping them simply with distilled water reduced the haze for a little while, but then returned after a few days.
Acrylic polymer might work but I suspect the layer would be neither very thin nor even; it might affect IQ at larger apertures.
I think it depends on the nature and location of the haze but if the lens is of otherwise little value then you can experiment. The acrylic might just flake off when cured though. _________________ Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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kiddo
Joined: 29 Jun 2018 Posts: 1275
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Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2024 10:18 pm Post subject: |
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kiddo wrote:
in few projector lenses i have(angenieux, kipronar) i found haze , probably it has to do with the heat and cold these lenses were exposed to; the haze didn´t seem so much visible until i´ve opened the lens and clean it properly . Many times i questioned myself if cleaning might have provoked the haze to appear, as before cleaning the haze had a different shape. Most of the times i would only use isopropyl , thanks to your information, i have found out there are lenses that have very fragile coatings (early minolta), but i guess , cleaning these lenses and removing the coatings on them , wouldn´t provoke any haze, isn´t it? |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021 Posts: 1438 Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2024 10:15 am Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
kiddo wrote: |
in few projector lenses i have(angenieux, kipronar) i found haze , probably it has to do with the heat and cold these lenses were exposed to; the haze didn´t seem so much visible until i´ve opened the lens and clean it properly . Many times i questioned myself if cleaning might have provoked the haze to appear, as before cleaning the haze had a different shape. Most of the times i would only use isopropyl , thanks to your information, i have found out there are lenses that have very fragile coatings (early minolta), but i guess , cleaning these lenses and removing the coatings on them , wouldn´t provoke any haze, isn´t it? |
There have been a couple of Minoltas where the soft green coating had been badly damaged beyond repair by careless DIY botch jobs (something you take a risk with when buying from eBay ). Usually, if the damage is limited to a just a few scratches I just leave it, but here I had no option other than to completely remove that coating. It left no haze, and I don't think as an AR coating it was a very effective one in the first place. IQ on those lenses seems to be fine, maybe a slight loss of overall contrast but I would have to set up a proper comparison test to be sure.
Polishing off that soft green coating has been a variable experience. On one lens it came off very easy, using nothing more than a lint-free cloth and a bit of water; on the other there were a few hard spots, especially in the centre, and required the use of a small amount of metal polish (either brass or silver polish; can't remember which one I used). _________________ Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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Himself
Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 3249 Location: Montreal
Expire: 2013-05-30
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Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2024 11:52 pm Post subject: |
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Himself wrote:
RokkorDoctor wrote: |
Polishing ......... required the use of a small amount of metal polish (either brass or silver polish; can't remember which one I used). |
Very interesting!
What grit those brass/silver polish?
Did you use some sort of contraption to remove the coating? You know, to follow the spherical shape of the lens.
Or just the good, old elbow grease? _________________ Moderator Himself |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021 Posts: 1438 Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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Posted: Sun Jun 30, 2024 10:14 am Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
Himself wrote: |
RokkorDoctor wrote: |
Polishing ......... required the use of a small amount of metal polish (either brass or silver polish; can't remember which one I used). |
Very interesting!
What grit those brass/silver polish?
Did you use some sort of contraption to remove the coating? You know, to follow the spherical shape of the lens.
Or just the good, old elbow grease? |
Just elbow grease. No idea what the grit is, just standard silvo or brasso, it was one of the two. And only light pressure. The polishing compound used in consumer grade silvo/brasso is not going to be very pure nor will it have been accurately graded, so hard pressure would be ill-advised. The idea is to abrade the soft coating, not re-polish the underlying glass surface.
TBH these were practice-lenses. Had they been valuable or rare lenses I would have spent more time trying to find a "safe" polish. You want something that is harder than the green coating (not hard to find, the coating is soft) but softer than the very thin silica-gel layer left by the factory polishing process.
N.B.: some may be confused by the mention of a silica-gel layer, as it tends to be associated with the silica-gel beads in moisture-absorbing packs. However, the final polishing process of glass also leaves a thin silica-gel layer on the exterior surface of the glass. This layer can be eroded by alkaline ions released from the glass following prolonged exposure to moisture, resulting in a haze that can not be removed without re-polishing the glass surface.
Those interested in more detail I would point to the following books:
"Optics Manufacturing - Components and Systems", Christoph Gerhard, CRC Press, 2018, section 8.2: "Hypotheses of Polishing Processes"
"Fabrication Methods for Precision Optics", Hank H. Karrow, Wiley-Interscience, 2004, section 1.1.5: "Chemical Behavior of Glass - Dimming Cause by Water Vapors"
The mechanical and chemical processes involved in the polishing of glass are still not understood completely and scientific research is on-going. I would love to point to some established on-line research articles but what I could find in a few minute search are scientific research papers behind a pay-wall.
I did find this: https://pubs.acs.org/doi/10.1021/acs.langmuir.3c00304 _________________ Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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