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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 1216
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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 Posted: Sat Mar 02, 2024 8:27 am Post subject: 3rd party reversing rings |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
Picked this up out of the $5.00 bin at one of the local photo shops. I have another pro-master version here for nikon f to 77mm filter thread, but don't have a short enough focal length lens in that diameter to work properly with it.
This one seems to work with the nikkor 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 reasonably well.
There's how it looks mounted on a lens.
With the lens at the 85mm setting and f5.6
At 28mm and f5.6 here. It vignettes heavily at the 28mm setting.
The threads on the ring are un-indexed, likely because there's a lot of lenses around with different filter thread indexing.
Other than that, the mechanics of it seem to work fairly well. Too bad they didn't take a page out of the nikon BR-2 book and make 3 indexing positions utilizing the bayonet lugs- which makes getting the aperture index towards the up-right position on the camera a bit easier. Lock-up is fairly good, with a just barely discernible hint of wiggle/play.
It didn't occur to me to try with the macro lug extended~ something that I'll attempt later when I have the set-up out again.
There's a junk 28mm around here somewhere with the 62mm filter thread. Ill try that as well, when I can find it.
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 1216
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Fri Mar 08, 2024 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
With a cheap 3rd party 28mm f2.8, extremely heavy vignetting, and a very short focus distance with the rear element almost touching the subject, regardless of where the focus ring is turned to. Not really a very usable combination.
I think there are a couple more zooms around here with 62mm filter threads, and will try later.
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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DConvert
Joined: 12 Jun 2010
Posts: 921
Location: Essex UK
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| Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2024 11:25 am Post subject: |
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DConvert wrote:
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
With a cheap 3rd party 28mm f2.8, extremely heavy vignetting, and a very short focus distance with the rear element almost touching the subject, regardless of where the focus ring is turned to. Not really a very usable combination.
I think there are a couple more zooms around here with 62mm filter threads, and will try later.
-D.S. |
With many lenses, when mounted reversed the the focus ring just moves the mount in & out, it makes no difference at all to the optics. Having the focus set to infinity on these will reduce the distance out to the mount so can leave a little more working room. |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021
Posts: 1438
Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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| Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2024 1:03 pm Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
Just make sure these 3rd party reversing rings are kind to the bayonet mount of the camera and filter thread of the lens.
Quality OEM ones tend to be made of chromium plated brass.
3rd party ones are often machined out of aluminium with a rough anodised finish and rough machined aluminium threads, which can be abrasive and can bind easily.
_________________
Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 1216
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Tue Mar 12, 2024 6:28 am Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
| RokkorDoctor wrote: |
Just make sure these 3rd party reversing rings are kind to the bayonet mount of the camera and filter thread of the lens.
Quality OEM ones tend to be made of chromium plated brass.
3rd party ones are often machined out of aluminium with a rough anodised finish and rough machined aluminium threads, which can be abrasive and can bind easily. |
This one is just plain anodized aluminum. The threads on it are very cleanly cut, and there's a secondary stop on the bayonet in the form of a tiny screw. Quality seems to be very good for what it is.
I tried with the cheap 28mm f2.8 on it, and focus is very close with the rear element almost touching the subject. Vignetting is very heavy.
For what it is, it works. How often I'll be using it is a completely different matter. Personally, short extension tubes are a lot easier for me to use.
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021
Posts: 1438
Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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| Posted: Tue Mar 12, 2024 10:27 am Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
| Doc Sharptail wrote: |
| RokkorDoctor wrote: |
Just make sure these 3rd party reversing rings are kind to the bayonet mount of the camera and filter thread of the lens.
Quality OEM ones tend to be made of chromium plated brass.
3rd party ones are often machined out of aluminium with a rough anodised finish and rough machined aluminium threads, which can be abrasive and can bind easily. |
This one is just plain anodized aluminum. The threads on it are very cleanly cut, and there's a secondary stop on the bayonet in the form of a tiny screw. Quality seems to be very good for what it is.
I tried with the cheap 28mm f2.8 on it, and focus is very close with the rear element almost touching the subject. Vignetting is very heavy.
For what it is, it works. How often I'll be using it is a completely different matter. Personally, short extension tubes are a lot easier for me to use.
-D.S. |
Yes, wideangle lenses on a reverse ring rarely give enough working distance, and make it difficult to light the subject.
_________________
Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009
Posts: 11069
Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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| Posted: Tue Mar 12, 2024 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Maybe of interest http://forum.mflenses.com/relay-lens-system-to-adapt-short-back-focal-lenses-t18103.html
_________________
☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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Doc Sharptail
Joined: 23 Nov 2020
Posts: 1216
Location: Winnipeg Canada
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| Posted: Tue Mar 12, 2024 7:43 pm Post subject: |
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Doc Sharptail wrote:
Interesting, even with all the extra hardware.
I will try again later, by introducing a bellows into the mix, just to see what happens. There's still a 35 here to try, which I still haven't gotten around to yet, for reasons that still escape me. Just guessing at it- the 35 may turn out to be slightly more workable, just based on experience with 50's.
It appears to me that these somewhat odd sized reversing rings serve a secondary purpose~ to eliminate that pesky step-down ring that the O.E.M. units require to use with their usually single one size only units.
-D.S.
_________________
D-810, F2, FTN.
35mm f2 O.C. nikkor
50 f2 H nikkor, 50 f 1.4 AI-s, 135 f3.5 Q,
50 f2 K nikkor 2x, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 35-105 3.5-4.5 A/I-s, 200mm f4 Micro A/I, partial list.
"Ain't no half-way" -S.R.V.
"Oh Yeah... Alright" -Paul Simon |
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