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NiceDays
Joined: 25 Jun 2021 Posts: 23
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Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2022 7:07 pm Post subject: Recomment long range lens (600-800mm) or so. |
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NiceDays wrote:
I want to buy long range lens that is somewhat equivalent to 50-70x zoom consumer camera.
Very tight budget, so cheaper the better. Any advice?
i really hate to have a huge size lens like telescope, but mirror lenses are too soft right?
Please suggest few models. |
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7555 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2022 7:50 pm Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
If you use a Canon RF camera, just buy the RF 800mm f/11 IS STM when you have more budget. None of the old mirror can competes with its sharpness.
Otherwise, it is better to look for a good 500mm Mirror from Tamron/Minolta/Canon etc. _________________ https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021 Posts: 1405 Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2022 8:46 pm Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
I don't know your intended use or your sharpness & speed requirements, but might e.g. a 300mm/4.5 + 2x TC also be an option?
E.g. a Minolta MC ROKKOR 300mm/4.5 is affordable and has a very insensitive helicoid speed, so still easy to focus with a 2x TC if you can live with the f/9 speed.
A 500mm~ish mirror lens will give you much less CA though.
If budget is an issue this is likely to be the compromise you will have to make; doughnut-bokeh & light fall-off in the corners of a mirror lens, but with much less CA than a budget 600-800mm regular optic... _________________ Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10956 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2022 9:48 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Search ebay for "500mm f/8.0 Preset". Those are actually not bad. Some have matching 2X TC for 1000mm f/16. Beware a fogged rear element impossible to clean in older lenses. Performance to price ratio is quite high imho. Better quality come at many times the cost.
In the US (where are you?):
Click here to see on Ebay
image by seller isellstuff4u
or
(only $29.99 + free shipping)
Click here to see on Ebay
otherwise these are great and inexpensive:
Tamron 55BB 500mm f8 SP Tele Macro BBAR MC ($112.82 + free shipping)
Click here to see on Ebay _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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Gerald
Joined: 25 Mar 2014 Posts: 1196 Location: Brazil
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 12:06 am Post subject: Re: Recomment long range lens (600-800mm) or so. |
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Gerald wrote:
Recomment long range lens (600-800mm) or so.
NiceDays wrote: |
I want to buy long range lens that is somewhat equivalent to 50-70x zoom consumer camera.
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Well, the magnification of a 600-800mm lens relative to a 50mm normal lens is only 12-16x... _________________ If raindrops were perfect lenses, the rainbow did not exist. |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10956 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 12:48 am Post subject: Re: Recomment long range lens (600-800mm) or so. |
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visualopsins wrote:
Gerald wrote: |
Recomment long range lens (600-800mm) or so.
NiceDays wrote: |
I want to buy long range lens that is somewhat equivalent to 50-70x zoom consumer camera.
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Well, the magnification of a 600-800mm lens relative to a 50mm normal lens is only 12-16x... |
Not sure what is meant by 50-70x. There is the Panasonic Lumix DMC-LZ30 16.1 MP Digital Camera Zoom 35x Optical 70x Digital Click here to see on Ebay
Quote: |
- 16.1MP 1/2.3" CCD Sensor
- 35x Optical Zoom Lens
- 70x Digital Zoom
- 25-875mm Focal Length in 35mm Format |
_________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7555 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 3:20 am Post subject: Re: Recomment long range lens (600-800mm) or so. |
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calvin83 wrote:
Gerald wrote: |
Recomment long range lens (600-800mm) or so.
NiceDays wrote: |
I want to buy long range lens that is somewhat equivalent to 50-70x zoom consumer camera.
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Well, the magnification of a 600-800mm lens relative to a 50mm normal lens is only 12-16x... |
The "new" standard is compare the tele side to the wide side. For example:
COOLPIX P950 4.3-357mm 83x
COOLPIX P1000 4.3-539mm 125x _________________ https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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NiceDays
Joined: 25 Jun 2021 Posts: 23
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 5:49 am Post subject: |
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NiceDays wrote:
Forget to mention its mainly for playing around with zoom, i am not planning on shooting anything serious with it, just to practice high zoom.
calvin83 wrote: |
If you use a Canon RF camera, just buy the RF 800mm f/11 IS STM when you have more budget. None of the old mirror can competes with its sharpness.
Otherwise, it is better to look for a good 500mm Mirror from Tamron/Minolta/Canon etc. |
My system is Sony APS-C, i can use Manual Canon lens with adapters no problem.
Its F11 too dark, then i have to boost ISO too high i don't really want to go past ISO 800 or worst case ISO 1600.
Why you recommend 500mm mirror, 800mm mirror is not as good?
RokkorDoctor wrote: |
A 500mm~ish mirror lens will give you much less CA though.
If budget is an issue this is likely to be the compromise you will have to make; doughnut-bokeh & light fall-off in the corners of a mirror lens, but with much less CA than a budget 600-800mm regular optic... |
Forgot to mention i already have 300mm with 2x TC, i want more reach than that.
RokkorDoctor wrote: |
A 500mm~ish mirror lens will give you much less CA though.
If budget is an issue this is likely to be the compromise you will have to make; doughnut-bokeh & light fall-off in the corners of a mirror lens, but with much less CA than a budget 600-800mm regular optic... |
Isn't CA easily fixed in post processing, there's just a slider in Photoshop - Adobe Camera Raw for this that works great in my experience.
I am considering 800 Mirror, but reviews say mirrors are too soft and its also F8 all the time, i assume with 2x Tele for mirror lens is not a good option either.
visualopsins wrote: |
Search ebay for "500mm f/8.0 Preset". Those are actually not bad. Some have matching 2X TC for 1000mm f/16. Beware a fogged rear element impossible to clean in older lenses. Performance to price ratio is quite high imho. Better quality come at many times the cost.
In the US (where are you?): |
Eastern Europe.
What about this Samyang 800mm vs Tamron 55BB 500mm Mirror for example? |
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kypfer
Joined: 27 Sep 2017 Posts: 523 Location: Jersey C.I.
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 6:32 am Post subject: Re: Recomment long range lens (600-800mm) or so. |
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kypfer wrote:
NiceDays wrote: |
I want to buy long range lens that is somewhat equivalent to 50-70x zoom consumer camera.
Very tight budget, so cheaper the better. Any advice?
i really hate to have a huge size lens like telescope, but mirror lenses are too soft right?
Please suggest few models. |
In my experience, mirror lenses are not soft, just poorly supported!
The cheaper ones don't have a tripod mount, so you can end up with a very front-heavy arrangement on a tripod, or, worse still, struggle hand-held.
Add to that the usual f/8 aperture is bordering on the minimum for focus confirmation, except in good light on a contrasty subject, and all in all it's a recipe for disappointment.
Having said all that … the Samyang 800mm f/8 (also available under other brand-names) can give good results on a bean-bag, using mirror-up exposures and a cable release, though that arrangement isn't very suitable for anything other than the most static of subjects. Some sort of hood is greatly beneficial … I use a sheet of black card held in place with an elastic band … and the focus ring is VERY coarse, getting the focus exactly right takes a delicate touch!
Do bear in mind that over the sort of distances a very long lens might be used, atmospheric distortion can be a very real problem, especially over water |
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Antoine
Joined: 08 Jan 2016 Posts: 298 Location: London
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 7:57 am Post subject: |
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Antoine wrote:
If you want a zoom and can carry 2 kgs (4.5 lbs), the Minolta mc/md 100-500 mm zoom f8 is good, often reasonnably priced otherwise mirror is more convenient. If you are lucky the APO...
If you are strong and want 800 mm then the Minolta mirror can be found... but for a few hundred £ _________________ Antoine
Sony A6000 APS-C and Sony A7 Rii
Minolta Fisheye MD Rokkor 7.5 mm f4, Fisheye MD 16 f2.8 MD R 17mm f4, MD R 20mm f2.8, MC VFC & MDIII 24mm f2.8, MD 28mm f2.0 &3.5, MD II 35mm 1.8, MD 45mm f2.0, MD 50mm f 1.2 & MD I f1.4, MC PG 58mm 1.2, MD 85mm f2.0, MD R 85mm f2.8 Varisoft, MC 85mm f1.7 MD R 100mm f2.5, MD R 100mm f4.0 macro, MD III 135mm f2.8, MD R 200mm f2.8 & 4.0, RF 250mm f5.6, MD 300mm f4.5, MD APO 400 mm f5.6, RF 500mm f8.0, RF 800mm f8.0 *2 300-s and 300-l
100 mm f4 macro bellows (5/4)
Vivitar 17mm f3.5, Elicar 300mm mirror f5.6, Zhongi turbo ii
Sigma 16mm f 2.8 fish eye
Zooms:24-50 mm f4, 35-70 mm f3.5 macro, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5, 50-135 f 3.5, 70-210 f4 and MD APO 100-500 mm f8 |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 8:01 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
I agree with Kyper. I have some experience with learning how to get sharp photos with a long mirror -- in my case it was a Sigma 600mm that I bought new back in 1984. It was a very sharp lens, but it took me quite a while to realize this. I recall with the first set of slides I got back, I was convinced the lens was junk. But I persevered and, as my technique improved, so did my photos.
There's the old rule of thumb that, with a telephoto, you should shoot at a shutter speed that is the reciprocal of the focal length. So, with a 500mm lens, for example, you should shoot at a minimum 1/500 second. But I found that if I was shooting unsupported, the shutter speed should be at least doubled. So, for shooting with a 500mm unsupported, 1/1000 second would be a minimum. But even so, whenever possible, I have always preferred to use a stout tripod and a camera with mirror lock up with a cable shutter release. I have also used monopods, and they worked well as long as I was able to support them well.
However! The real world does not always cooperate when it comes to maximizing your shutter speed. Often conditions are such that your maximum possible shutter speed is much slower than ideal. This is where a stout tripod becomes critical. And a way of releasing the shutter without touching the camera.
These days, when shooting with a digital camera, there's no mirror lock up -- and if you're shooting mirrorless, well there's really no mirror lock up. There's also usually no facility for using a cable release. So what I do with my Sony mirrorless is I use the camera's 10 second self-timer, which is usually enough time for the image to stabilize. I also use the camera's magnifier feature -- 10x, I think it is. This helps dialing in a sharp focus. My Sony is an older model -- a NEX 7, so it doesn't offer high ISOs the way a lot of the later digital cameras do, and the images become degraded rapidly as I bump up the ISO, so to preserve maximum sharpness, I always shoot at the slowest ISO my Sony has -- ISO 100. So, if I'm shooting a photo of the moon, for example, with a long lens, my fastest shutter speed is 1/125 second. (Correct exposure for the moon is 1/125 sec at f/8 at ISO 100.) Obviously, this is where a stout tripod is critical.
I have used a variety of 500mm lenses with my Sony with tripod, also a 650mm refractor lens, and a Meade 1000mm f/11 SCT mirror. All of these lenses render sharp images, but it takes a bit of skill and practice to get a good image. One technique I always use is I take multiple shots of the same subject, refocusing between each shot. The likelihood of getting a sharp image is increased, I've found, using this technique. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021 Posts: 1405 Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 8:33 am Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
NiceDays wrote: |
RokkorDoctor wrote: |
A 500mm~ish mirror lens will give you much less CA though.
If budget is an issue this is likely to be the compromise you will have to make; doughnut-bokeh & light fall-off in the corners of a mirror lens, but with much less CA than a budget 600-800mm regular optic... |
Isn't CA easily fixed in post processing, there's just a slider in Photoshop - Adobe Camera Raw for this that works great in my experience. |
Lateral chromatic aberration can be fixed to some extent in Photoshop as you suggest, but legacy tele lenses lacking low dispersion glass often also suffer from longitudinal chromatic aberration, which is much more difficult if not impractical to fix in PP. _________________ Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021 Posts: 1405 Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 8:42 am Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
Antoine wrote: |
If you want a zoom and can carry 2 kgs (4.5 lbs), the Minolta mc/md 100-500 mm zoom f8 is good, often reasonnably priced otherwise mirror is more convenient. If you are lucky the APO...
If you are strong and want 800 mm then the Minolta mirror can be found... but for a few hundred £ |
I have both the MD ROKKOR 100-500mm f/8 as well as the APO version. They are indeed good lenses but I haven't seen a reasonably priced one for a long time now.
If one is lucky, the seller includes the dedicated Minolta achromat close-up lens (72mm filter thread), not realising that the market value of that close-up lens is nearly half that of the 100-500mm lens itself, if not more. That close-up achromat also works very well with the Minolta MD 135/2 and 200/2.8 lenses _________________ Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7555 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 9:20 am Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
If you use a modern Sony camera like A6300/A6400, you can use a Techart LM-EA7 to drive your mirror lens so you can handheld it and get sharp photos. If it is A6500/A6600, you will get IBIS too. _________________ https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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kypfer
Joined: 27 Sep 2017 Posts: 523 Location: Jersey C.I.
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 11:47 am Post subject: |
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kypfer wrote:
cooltouch wrote: |
These days, when shooting with a digital camera, there's no mirror lock up -- and if you're shooting mirrorless, well there's really no mirror lock up. There's also usually no facility for using a cable release. |
'cept with a "real" camera … my Pentax DSLR's mostly feature "mirror up" in one form or another and most (all?) of them have either facility for a cable release and/or an infra-red remote control. |
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eggplant
Joined: 27 May 2020 Posts: 517
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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eggplant wrote:
Also, mirror lenses that aren't solid require some time to acclimatise to reach best performance, like 30-45 minutes.
You can now get a 500mm f/6.3 refracting lens for same price as the 500mm f/8 wundertute- branded under Oshiro etc. That atleast gives you more aperture to play with if you're using a teleconverter. |
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NiceDays
Joined: 25 Jun 2021 Posts: 23
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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NiceDays wrote:
calvin83 wrote: |
If you use a modern Sony camera like A6300/A6400, you can use a Techart LM-EA7 to drive your mirror lens so you can handheld it and get sharp photos. If it is A6500/A6600, you will get IBIS too. |
I use NEX-5T for its small size.
No thanks, all lenses i use for past two years are fully manual i don't need this AF adapter that cost more than my whole system. I also read somewhere AF on that adapter is slow, not for real world use.
Price wise its cheaper to buy Minolta AutoFocus mirror 500mm F/8 lens + Sony A-mount mirror camera like Sony A100.
eggplant wrote: |
Also, mirror lenses that aren't solid require some time to acclimatise to reach best performance, like 30-45 minutes. |
Could you give me more info on that? I know heat can affect lens, but you suggest me place it under direct sun for 30 minutes or what exactly you mean?
kypfer wrote: |
cooltouch wrote: |
These days, when shooting with a digital camera, there's no mirror lock up -- and if you're shooting mirrorless, well there's really no mirror lock up. There's also usually no facility for using a cable release. |
'cept with a "real" camera … my Pentax DSLR's mostly feature "mirror up" in one form or another and most (all?) of them have either facility for a cable release and/or an infra-red remote control. |
I do have IR remote that i use, however i find that i get vibration after every shutter release on 300mm lens when on tripod regardless on how i balance it.
http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/reviews/pro_optic_500_f6-3.html i think i am not buying Mirror made by Samyoung/Rokinon and other names its sold under.
Other review of mirrors.
https://advancedphototech.wordpress.com/lenses/mirror-mirror-a-guide-to-choosing-and-using-mirror-lenses/
https://advancedphototech.wordpress.com/mirror-mirror-a-guide-to-choosing-and-using-mirror-lenses-part-two/ They claim Vivitar mirror are junk as well.
I think all non brand name mirrors are bad.
Last edited by NiceDays on Wed Aug 03, 2022 6:45 pm; edited 6 times in total |
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eggplant
Joined: 27 May 2020 Posts: 517
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 6:34 pm Post subject: |
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eggplant wrote:
NiceDays wrote: |
eggplant wrote: |
Also, mirror lenses that aren't solid require some time to acclimatise to reach best performance, like 30-45 minutes. |
Could you give me more info on that? I know heat can affect lens, but you suggest me place it under direct sun for 30 minutes or what exactly you mean?
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I mean you take it to the environment you're going to shoot photos in, so outdoors/outside, not leave it under the sun... don't leave it under the sun!
Many threads describe it:
https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/280072-very-long-lenses-on-the-cl-and-tl-please-add-your-experiences/page/8/#comment-3556203 |
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7555 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 7:15 pm Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
Good to know this _________________ https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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eggplant
Joined: 27 May 2020 Posts: 517
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 7:20 pm Post subject: |
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eggplant wrote:
I'm sure someone like stevemark / other people who do extensive lens comparisons, could do a good test of this acclimatization. Would have to have atleast one hot day though methinks. |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021 Posts: 1405 Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 8:30 pm Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
Excuse my ignorance, but why would a mirror lens be more sensitive to internal heat thermals compared to a conventional refractor lens of similar diameter?
Surely all the glass elements radiate heat, not just the main mirror in a mirror lens?
So wouldn't a conventional long lens/telescope also need some acclimatisation time for critical use such as in astronomy?
Or am I missing something obvious here? _________________ Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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marcusBMG
Joined: 07 Dec 2012 Posts: 1312 Location: Conwy N Wales
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 8:53 pm Post subject: |
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marcusBMG wrote:
Let's just clarify a bit. The 50-70x you mention in your OP refers to the ratio of shortest focal length to longest focal length of a superzoom. So the range might be 4.5mm to 400mm = 89x zoom approx. This is not magnification - at least not in the normal sense of relative to normal eye view. The crop factor of the sensor is probably a bit over 5x so 4.5mm focal length would equate to 24-28mm equivalent wide angle and 400mm would be up to 2000mm plus (which is impressive, and roughly 40x magnification relative to 50mm "normal" view).
Superzooms have improved a lot in the last few years, I have to say they are probably one of the most practical ways of getting this sort of ultra-extreme telephoto.
As soon as you are using more conventional sized sensor cameras - apsc or full frame - the practical limitations of optics (the really long focal length lenses are huge - small telescopes - and expensive eg pentax 1000mm, pentax A 1200mm ) mean that above 400mm options are limited. Mirror lenses are often frustrating, especially when the light is less than perfect. Modestly priced lenses like those 500mm f8's are simply not very good (my review here ). Most importantly, I have consistently got better results with the better 400mm options than with those 500mm options.
In the end its about results. That shall be achieved by a balance of lens/lens + tc choice, and cropping. and the more pixels you have, the more cropping you can do.
One other possibility: digiscoping. _________________ pentax ME super (retired)
Pentax K3-ii; pentax K-S2; Samsung NX 20; Lumix G1 + adapters;
Adaptall collection (proliferating!) inc 200-500mm 31A, 300mm f2.8, 400mm f4.
Primes: takumar 55mm; smc 28mm, 50mm; kino/komine 28mm f2's, helios 58mm, Tamron Nestar 400mm, novoflex 400mm, Vivitar 135mm close focus, 105mm macro; Jupiter 11A; CZJ 135mm.
A classic zoom or two: VS1 (komine), Kiron Zoomlock... |
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D1N0
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 2530
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 9:38 pm Post subject: |
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D1N0 wrote:
This should do :p
https://aquilaa1.wordpress.com/2020/11/09/maksutov-1000mm/ _________________ pentaxian |
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eggplant
Joined: 27 May 2020 Posts: 517
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Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2022 10:34 pm Post subject: |
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eggplant wrote:
I have a Rubinar 1000mm f/10 with a fair amount of fungus on inner element but still gives contrasty photos. Can give you some unedited samples from my A6000 (also APS-C) if you'd like. |
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NiceDays
Joined: 25 Jun 2021 Posts: 23
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Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2022 4:10 am Post subject: |
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NiceDays wrote:
eggplant wrote: |
I have a Rubinar 1000mm f/10 with a fair amount of fungus on inner element but still gives contrasty photos. Can give you some unedited samples from my A6000 (also APS-C) if you'd like. |
Yeah please upload some RAWs if you can, i wonder to see bokeh it gives as well as resolution on the corners and center of image.
I am Russian myself and i started taking pictures with manual focus lenses made in USSR, now i of course upgraded since then and consider all soviet made lenses total junk that should be avoided.
Rubinar 1000mm F/10 even inside Russia is relatively expensive starting at $250 similar cost as brand mirror lenses. Even Rubinar 500mm F/8 price start at $120.
Nice never heard of it, 1000mm version goes slightly cheaper than Rubinar 500mm. |
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