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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 4088 Location: Switzerland
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Posted: Sun Aug 04, 2024 9:01 pm Post subject: Leica Elmarit R 2.8/35mm repair |
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stevemark wrote:
Some years ago I got an ugly Leica R Elmarit 2.8/35mm at a local photo store - for free. Its focus was completely stuck, and the focusing ring itself had become loose. Obviously someone had been messing around with the lens since a front ring was missing. There was some fungus, too, but no scratches on the glass, and the aperture was working perfectly. Back then I tried hard to remove the front ring (name plate), but it simply didn't move at all. Opening the lens from the back side was possible, but I couldn't access the focusing ring from there. Finally I gave up.
Today I gave it another try. This time I put some acetone on the thread of the front ring, trying to dissolve either glue or dirt, but it didnt work either. The common lens ring rubber tools for removing rings were completely useless, and even using a lens spanner with spiky ends didn't work (but of course it did scratch the name ring). After some head-scratching I finally decided to do something one should NEVER do with a lens: I applied some penetrating oil, and after a few moments the front ring finally came off. To my complete surprise it was not only the front ring, but the complete optical block in front of the aperture!
Underneath a small screw became visible. Removing it should unlock the next part (including the built-in sunshade), but again it didn't work out as planned: I couldn't unscrew the part even though I was applying quite a lot of force. Penetreting oil didn't work either, and so I drilled a small hole into the ring and used the wrench spanner:
A small ring came off as well:
Now I finally had access to the set of four screws which had become lose, thus leaving the focusing inoperable:
_________________ www.artaphot.ch
Last edited by stevemark on Sun Aug 04, 2024 11:17 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 4088 Location: Switzerland
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Posted: Sun Aug 04, 2024 9:05 pm Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
After removing the focusing ring, the remaining part of the lens looks like this:
Since the focusing thread was completely blocked, I had to use penetrating oil again (acetone didn't work) ... after just a few seconds it became loose! This stuff is amazing indeed.
Removing the lens bayonet ...
...and aperture ring (beware - the small 1mm diameter steel ball for aperture clicking mechanism is easily lost!):
The rear part of the lens, partly dismantled:
Dismantling it further:
Now all parts were cleaned thoroughly (either with detergent/water or acetone). The focusing thread was re-lubricated, the two lens surfaces on both sides of the aperture mechanism were cleaned (fungus), and the lens was re-assembled. It's now in fully working condition, the glass looks perfect, and the aperture is snappy - but of course the small inner front roing just around the front lens is still missing ...
Test / comparisons will follow.
S _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021 Posts: 1438 Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2024 8:25 am Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
What brand/type penetrating oil did you use? Standard WD40, or something more sophisticated? _________________ Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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Vintage_Photographer
Joined: 10 Jun 2024 Posts: 79
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Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2024 12:03 pm Post subject: |
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Vintage_Photographer wrote:
RokkorDoctor wrote: |
What brand/type penetrating oil did you use? Standard WD40, or something more sophisticated? |
WD40 isn't a penetrating oil, it's a water dispersant formula. The best penetrating oil is 50:50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. The two are immiscible so need shaking before use.
Commercial penetrating oils like PlusGas or Duck Oil are also very good. _________________ Current gear list:
Mamiya 645 TL Pro with 80mm and 110mm Sekor C, Rolleiflex SL35 with Rollei HFT 50mm/1.8, Rolleinar 135/2.8, 200/3.5, Pentacon 28/2.8 and Horizont 35/2.8, Minolta SRT100X, Rokkor 35-70mm f/3.5, Rokkor 100-300mm f/5.6.
Fuji X-E2 and X-T4 with Fuji 18-55 AF, 18-135 AF, TTArtisans 27/2.8 AF, 7.5/2 Fisheye, 35/1.4, 7Artisans 18/6.3, Samyang 12mm/2 AF, Tamron SP90 (on Nikon adapter), Ilford Sportsman, Zeiss IKon Contina II and Zeiss Ikoflex 1 TLR. |
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stevemark
Joined: 29 Apr 2011 Posts: 4088 Location: Switzerland
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Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2024 2:30 pm Post subject: |
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stevemark wrote:
RokkorDoctor wrote: |
What brand/type penetrating oil did you use? Standard WD40, or something more sophisticated? |
"Okay Eindring-Öl mit MoS2" from "Landi Schweiz AG" (typical hardware store; a Swiss co-operative selling agricultural stuff). It sas both "Eindring-Öl" (penetrationg oil) as well as "wasserverdrängend" (water dirspersant) and "rostlösend" (dissolving/removing rust):
https://www.landi.ch/shop/fette-schmierstoffe_170701/eindringoel-okay-400-ml-dualspray_23855
I am fully aware that using this stuff on a rather valuable lens was ... well, risky.
I would recommend it only if you are willing to write off the lens in case things go wrong ... But it was quite impressive that some completely stuck parts were freed within seconds!
S _________________ www.artaphot.ch |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021 Posts: 1438 Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2024 3:12 pm Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
Vintage_Photographer wrote: |
RokkorDoctor wrote: |
What brand/type penetrating oil did you use? Standard WD40, or something more sophisticated? |
WD40 isn't a penetrating oil, it's a water dispersant formula. The best penetrating oil is 50:50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid. The two are immiscible so need shaking before use.
Commercial penetrating oils like PlusGas or Duck Oil are also very good. |
I know; their 40th formulation in fact. They've had to change it (environmental regs), so I guess it should be WD41 now (at least).
WD40 has been marketed as many things that it isn't; most notably people seem to think it is a good lubricant (which it isn't). Some builders use it as an after-shave I believe.
Here in the UK I'm surprised how often "service engineers" turn up with nothing more than a hammer and a can of WD40... (OK, an exaggeration, but I am baffled how often the can of WD40 comes out of the bag; that stuff leaves a real mess)
EDIT: incidentally, the mix of 50/50 acetone/ATF you suggested should not get anywhere near plastics (styrenes in particular), balsamed lenses, or paints... _________________ Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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