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Gerald
Joined: 25 Mar 2014 Posts: 1197 Location: Brazil
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 3:39 pm Post subject: LENSES: Facts and Fallacies - Part I |
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Gerald wrote:
This is an excerpt from the article "LENSES: Facts and Fallacies" by Lester Lefkowitz, which was published by Modern Photography in September 1983. Thirty years ago, digital photography was a dream and the lenses were all manual focus. The lens technology evolved since then, but I believe this article remains essentially valid.
The article is not overly technical, and I hope it's an enjoyable reading. Mostly, I hope it helps younger member to understand better the behavior of manual focus lenses.
Everyone feel free to comment and tell their personal experiences.
to be continued... _________________ If raindrops were perfect lenses, the rainbow did not exist.
Last edited by Gerald on Sun Mar 05, 2017 5:55 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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guardian
Joined: 18 Mar 2009 Posts: 1746
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 6:52 pm Post subject: Re: LENSES: Facts and Fallacies - Part I |
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guardian wrote:
Gerald wrote: |
to be continued... |
Great stuff. Very informative. Thank you for posting.
Cannot wait for next installment!! |
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CuriousOne
Joined: 31 Dec 2013 Posts: 669 Location: Home
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 7:02 pm Post subject: |
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CuriousOne wrote:
Great info in plain language, thanks!
But I'd like to note that contrast issue with digital is not such prominent as with film. _________________ I have nothing to compensate with lens |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 8:19 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
Well I always thought the contrast dodge was used by cheaper lenses to appear sharper....but then always wondered how do you make a lens more contrasty _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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CuriousOne
Joined: 31 Dec 2013 Posts: 669 Location: Home
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 8:34 pm Post subject: |
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CuriousOne wrote:
Well, lens problems can be formulated into certain groups:
1. Low sharpness (digital can't help)
2. Low contrast (digital will help in most cases)
3. Sperical distortions (digital will help)
4. Vignetting (digital will help)
5. Chromatic abberations (digital might help, sometimes)
6. Flaring/ghosting (digital rarely will help)
So, in modern era #1 and #6 are main enemies, other can be easily fought in most cases, even automatically. _________________ I have nothing to compensate with lens |
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tromboads
Joined: 29 May 2012 Posts: 1655 Location: Melbourne AU
Expire: 2015-10-01
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 10:18 pm Post subject: |
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tromboads wrote:
+1
The future is now :p |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 10:26 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Excalibur wrote: |
Well I always thought the contrast dodge was used by cheaper lenses to appear sharper....but then always wondered how do you make a lens more contrasty |
Cheap nasty lenses usually have poor contrast, especially in tricky lighting where veiling flare is often an issue. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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drjs
Joined: 25 Feb 2013 Posts: 484 Location: USA
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 2:46 am Post subject: |
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drjs wrote:
Good stuff, pure awesomeness. Saved for safe keeping. Keep these coming! _________________ Follow me on 500px |
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bernhardas
Joined: 01 Jan 2013 Posts: 1432
Expire: 2017-05-23
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 3:00 am Post subject: |
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bernhardas wrote:
Edited
Last edited by bernhardas on Tue May 10, 2016 7:40 am; edited 1 time in total |
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luisalegria
Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6602 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 3:12 am Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
Part of the trick with cheap nasty lenses is to look for situations where they can look their best, or find their special features. A good lens can spoil me, so I don't try to get something special. I somehow get blah stuff out the best. I am looking guiltily at my Biotar 75, which I rarely use.
On the other hand I have a completely awful 300mm (Kaligar branded Itoh) that has totally charmed me.
There's always a good side to any lens, it just needs to be found. _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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drjs
Joined: 25 Feb 2013 Posts: 484 Location: USA
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 3:23 am Post subject: |
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drjs wrote:
luisalegria wrote: |
Part of the trick with cheap nasty lenses is to look for situations where they can look their best, or find their special features. A good lens can spoil me, so I don't try to get something special. I somehow get blah stuff out the best. I am looking guiltily at my Biotar 75, which I rarely use.
On the other hand I have a completely awful 300mm (Kaligar branded Itoh) that has totally charmed me.
There's always a good side to any lens, it just needs to be found. |
I am frequently reminded that "Lens don't make great pictures, photographers do". _________________ Follow me on 500px |
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bernhardas
Joined: 01 Jan 2013 Posts: 1432
Expire: 2017-05-23
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 3:53 am Post subject: |
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bernhardas wrote:
Edited
Last edited by bernhardas on Tue May 10, 2016 7:41 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 7:59 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
iangreenhalgh1 wrote: |
Excalibur wrote: |
Well I always thought the contrast dodge was used by cheaper lenses to appear sharper....but then always wondered how do you make a lens more contrasty |
Cheap nasty lenses usually have poor contrast, especially in tricky lighting where veiling flare is often an issue. |
H'mm well I'm sure I read the contrast dodge i.e. less resolution but more contrast so the shot look sharper.... in a magazine about 45 years ago, but I suppose you can't always rely on memory. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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sichko
Joined: 20 Jun 2008 Posts: 2475 Location: South West UK
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 1:10 pm Post subject: |
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sichko wrote:
The article from Modern Photography is interesting - and thanks for showing it. But somehow I'm left wanting more. The article tells us that Sharpness is more than Resolution - it has something to do with Contrast. And then the idea of a Modulation Transfer Function (MTF) is introduced, but we are not given an explicit relationship between Sharpness and MTF.
Norman Koren ( http://www.normankoren.com/Tutorials/MTF.html ) discusses these ideas with many more technical details. However much of the maths can be glossed over and we can look at his conclusion ( a short way down the first page of the link) ...
Perceived image sharpness (as distinguished from traditional lp/mm resolution) is closely related to the spatial frequency where MTF is 50% (0.5)— where contrast has dropped by half.
You may not agree with the MT50 number, but I think it's important to to remember that quoting resolution without knowledge (if only implicit) of the contrast level can be very confusing. _________________ John |
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Gerald
Joined: 25 Mar 2014 Posts: 1197 Location: Brazil
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2014 2:55 pm Post subject: |
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Gerald wrote:
sichko wrote: |
The article from Modern Photography is interesting - and thanks for showing it. But somehow I'm left wanting more. The article tells us that Sharpness is more than Resolution - it has something to do with Contrast. And then the idea of a Modulation Transfer Function (MTF) is introduced, but we are not given an explicit relationship between Sharpness and MTF.
Norman Koren ( http://www.normankoren.com/Tutorials/MTF.html ) discusses these ideas with many more technical details. However much of the maths can be glossed over and we can look at his conclusion ( a short way down the first page of the link) ...
Perceived image sharpness (as distinguished from traditional lp/mm resolution) is closely related to the spatial frequency where MTF is 50% (0.5)— where contrast has dropped by half.
You may not agree with the MT50 number, but I think it's important to to remember that quoting resolution without knowledge (if only implicit) of the contrast level can be very confusing. |
Indeed, the perception of "sharpness" of an image appears to correlate well with the MTF50 value.
Thirty year ago, the Modulation Transfer Function, MTF, was very difficult to measure. Hence traditional tests measured the "limit resolution" or "ultimate resolution", which gives the number of lines per millimeter in which the lines are mixed into a blur. Nonetheless, people were well aware of the difference between sharpness and limit resolution. You've surely noticed the article author heavily emphasizes the difference between perceived sharpness and resolution. Incidentally, the "limit resolution" is given approximately by the point at which the MTF drops to 5~10%. That means also the "limit resolution" is always higher than MTF50.
Interestingly MTF50 depends largely on post-processing while "limiting resolution" is practically independent of PP.
After all, which is better to characterize a lens, the MTF50 or the "limit resolution" (MTF10)? Both measures have their values but the current trend is to use more the MTF50, which can be easily calculated by a computer. I intend to post in the coming days a simple procedure to measure MTF50, what could be useful to all who want to test their lenses in a more scientific way. _________________ If raindrops were perfect lenses, the rainbow did not exist. |
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Gerald
Joined: 25 Mar 2014 Posts: 1197 Location: Brazil
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Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 5:21 pm Post subject: Re: LENSES: Facts and Fallacies - Part I |
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Gerald wrote:
Gerald wrote: |
This is an excerpt from the article "LENSES: Facts and Fallacies" by Lester Lefkowitz, which was published by Modern Photography in September 1983. Thirty years ago, digital photography was a dream and the lenses were all manual focus. The lens technology evolved since then, but I believe this article remains essentially valid.
The article is not overly technical, and I hope it's an enjoyable reading. Mostly, I hope it helps younger member to understand better the behavior of manual focus lenses.
Everyone feel free to comment and tell their personal experiences.
to be continued... |
_________________ If raindrops were perfect lenses, the rainbow did not exist. |
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Antoine
Joined: 08 Jan 2016 Posts: 298 Location: London
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Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 6:28 pm Post subject: |
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Antoine wrote:
Just looks like the difference when I bought a Elicar rf 300mm 5.6 (10 times cheaper) to replace my old Minolta RF 250mm 5.6 I lost in a park in Lisbon in September 2015. _________________ Antoine
Sony A6000 APS-C and Sony A7 Rii
Minolta Fisheye MD Rokkor 7.5 mm f4, Fisheye MD 16 f2.8 MD R 17mm f4, MD R 20mm f2.8, MC VFC & MDIII 24mm f2.8, MD 28mm f2.0 &3.5, MD II 35mm 1.8, MD 45mm f2.0, MD 50mm f 1.2 & MD I f1.4, MC PG 58mm 1.2, MD 85mm f2.0, MD R 85mm f2.8 Varisoft, MC 85mm f1.7 MD R 100mm f2.5, MD R 100mm f4.0 macro, MD III 135mm f2.8, MD R 200mm f2.8 & 4.0, RF 250mm f5.6, MD 300mm f4.5, MD APO 400 mm f5.6, RF 500mm f8.0, RF 800mm f8.0 *2 300-s and 300-l
100 mm f4 macro bellows (5/4)
Vivitar 17mm f3.5, Elicar 300mm mirror f5.6, Zhongi turbo ii
Sigma 16mm f 2.8 fish eye
Zooms:24-50 mm f4, 35-70 mm f3.5 macro, 28-85mm f3.5-4.5, 50-135 f 3.5, 70-210 f4 and MD APO 100-500 mm f8 |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11069 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 11:45 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Antoine wrote: |
Just looks like the difference when I bought a Elicar rf 300mm 5.6 (10 times cheaper) to replace my old Minolta RF 250mm 5.6 I lost in a park in Lisbon in September 2015. |
Hoping for a good story about how about how a 250mm lens gets "lost in a park"... _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11069 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 12:07 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
http://math.ucr.edu/home/baez/physics/General/Glass/glass.html
seems to echo much of what is said here... _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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buerokratiehasser
Joined: 12 Jun 2011 Posts: 470
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Posted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 5:30 am Post subject: |
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buerokratiehasser wrote:
Rockwell had something about MTF too, he used it to explain why low-res digital looks crisper than film.
Digital having near 100% MTF steadily until it drops sharply to zero (actually, often softened by aliasing filter), people then talk about lenses outresolving sensors (and vice versa), suggesting a simple < > order relationship, while it is the product o the MTFs.
You still can have a hazy lens, or many of them. |
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Rigel
Joined: 26 Nov 2015 Posts: 121 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 9:16 pm Post subject: |
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Rigel wrote:
This has been my favorite page(s) for a very long time .. this tutorial and a lot of others on these pages ...
http://www.normankoren.com/Tutorials/MTF.html |
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