My development procedure still "lacks" quality

[alaios]

Dear all,
I have not posted much recently since I was busy with my digital workflow. Although my biggest love still remains film and there is time I need to spend to improve my processing.

These are the typical problems I have:
(I have bought a new tank to make my life loading it easier http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B003PX4ZFU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage)

-Loading the 36 pozes film to the very end of the spiral. There are times that I have to "push" the film which makes the surface to slightly crack and suffer
-There is always a part staying outside that makes it harder to find enough liquid . Also it make the film at this part to be easier to be scratched as gets inside the tank
-Removing the film. I had to pull it strongly and I am sure that has damaged it even more.

Below I am sharing some shots that look bad because of my poor handling. I would like to see if you can explain me what has caused the specific type of problem in these shots. You do not have to comment each one. Just grab one or two you think you know what the problem might be

All photos can also be seen in the link below
http://alexpal.smugmug.com/ToShare/WhatIamDoingWrong/n-mQjTcD/i-grjXhn6

Regards
Alex

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[cooltouch]

Yeah, in most cases, I'd chalk it up to poor handling of the film. Not to say you didn't do your best, but you might have been dealing with equipment that didn't allow you to do it the way it should be done.

Good thing you bought it from Amazon because you might want to return it.

Try this -- take your developed film -- if you haven't cut it up yet, that is -- and feed it back into the reel. Be sure you've cut off that initial "tongue" that the roll has at the beginning. See where the problem is occuring. If the reel doesn't have enough room to hold a 36-exposure roll, then the only solution is to find a higher capacity reel.

I currently use a Paterson tank and I've had no problems with 36-exposure rolls of 35mm. I've used Jobo in the past, also with no problems. Heck, I've even used those cheap little Yankee tanks that have the thermometer that you twirl (instead of inverting the tank), and even those haven't had a problem with 36-exposure rolls.

So if you can confirm that the rolls don't have the capacity, then if I were you, I'd box that setup back up and return it. Then get a Paterson or Jobo or something of equivalent value. And then leave a poor review at Amazon about it so others can avoid the problems you had. On the other hand, if you see that there is enough room on the reel, then you need to look to what it's gonna take to wind it up on the reel properly.

That's about all I can think of.

[alaios]

Thanks for the reply.
I did not have the time to check all what you wrote me. In the mean time I just scan previously developed films.. I can see some tiny dots in my film that look like persistent dirt (is an "external" tiny dust)

Any ideas what this can be?
Regards
Alex

[miran]

Practice makes perfect, is all the advice I can give. My first attempts were similar to yours, maybe not as severe but still. It took a lot of time but eventually I settled with a workflow that in the end gives me nice, clean negatives and almost spotless scans. You too will get there, just keep working at it.

[cooltouch]

Dust, dirt, hairs, what have you -- if they're solid objects or particles, they'll always show up as white spots or objects on your negative film. So if they aren't white, then they aren't dust or dirt.

[alaios]

I also had one more hit last night...
I keep my negatives inside film cases. I had problem to remove one of my film strips as it was stuck with the thin plastic... Ouch part of it stayed over my films surface.


Once I finish scanning the ones I already developed. I would be only doing one film at a time to be more concetraded on one film...
I will post back
Alex

[cooltouch]

Instead of storing your developed film in the film containers, it's really a better idea -- and better for your film in the long run -- to buy a package of loose leaf archival-quality pages for your film. At the top of each page is a header area, where you can list the subject matter, type of film and camera, date taken, etc.

Of course you'll have to cut your film into strips. Most of these pages will hold strips of five images, held vertically.

[alaios]

can you please share some ebay link for those? It would be easier for me to understand what you have in mind
Regards
Alex

[PWhite214]

Film sleeves or pages: http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-x-Negative-Filing-Sheets-for-35mm-Film-Pages-Fit-Ring-Binder-Archive-Folders-/121248271190?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c3af5cb56

If you are using plastic 'ratcheting' type reels that are adjustable for film size, simply pull them apart to get the film off. Cleaning old reels with a tooth brush solved some problems.

Phil

[Mal]

Hi,
I am very new to b/w home developing too, I only have 7 rolls (35mm and 120) under my belt.

I have not used a Paterson tank because I stumbled across Rondinax tanks during my initial research.

Now, with only 7 rolls of film as experience I am not saying these are better than other methods ...i think I'd get expelled if I did that

However, it may be a workable alternative if you find loading a Paterson type tank fiddly.

You can load them in broad daylight and I find them very easy to use. And I seem to be getting consistent results. Now a qualifier, I use Ilford FP4+ and HP5 film, these films work well in these tanks. However, film stock that is thinner than these films may not work with these tanks. See the website below for loads of info and videos.

They are not cheap though; sadly they are no longer made so eBay or junk sales or antique camera dealers etc will be your only source. The 35mm versions are generally easier to find than the 120 format, the latter being even more expensive.


https://rondinax.wordpress.com

Just a thought.