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ceedjay
Joined: 02 Dec 2013
Posts: 32
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 Posted: Wed May 28, 2014 8:42 am Post subject: Building "optimum" lens from several identical one |
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ceedjay wrote:
Hey all,
I own three different Hexanon 50/1.7 and each one has something that I don't like. One has a nice smooth focusing ring and good aperture, but the front glass has lots of micro scratches (not visible at all on photos), one has a perfect barrel but the aperture is soft and doesn't open completely, and the last one has a perfect front lens but soft aperture and focusing ring is too soft, too.
Do you think I can get the perfect front lens from one and put it on the lens that works best diaphragm and focus-wise ? What I'd like to know is if the front element is the same one from lens to lens and can be swapped. I did that on a 40/1.8 without any problem so I guess it should be OK but want to make sure. This way, I'll have all the best elements.
I know how to take them apart (except the diaphragm which is a nightmare to put back together again).
Thanks
Jay |
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Gerald
Joined: 25 Mar 2014
Posts: 1196
Location: Brazil
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| Posted: Wed May 28, 2014 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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Gerald wrote:
I did exactly that with two CZJ Flektogon 50mm F4 and the end result was excellent.
If the permutation of the elements does not work, you can always revert to the original lenses.
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If raindrops were perfect lenses, the rainbow did not exist. |
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Aanything
Joined: 27 Aug 2011
Posts: 2187
Location: Piacenza, Italy
Expire: 2014-05-30
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| Posted: Wed May 28, 2014 1:54 pm Post subject: |
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Aanything wrote:
I too swapped the front element of a lens with one coming from another copy, and it worked fine.
I wouldn't recommend going much further than that as - since your lenses seem to be working - the risk is to do more damage than good.
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Mir
Joined: 07 Feb 2011
Posts: 983
Location: Montreal, Canada
Expire: 2017-09-30
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| Posted: Wed May 28, 2014 2:01 pm Post subject: |
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Mir wrote:
I made a nice working Oretegor 4/200 from two beat up one's myself
Took the better parts and the better glass..... Works fine....
And i had a professional do the same for another lens.... also works fine.
They have to be the exact same lenses, same generation, same formula....
But i suggest you take your better lens and CLA it yourself or have it done
by a pro according to your preferences... you'll end up with an "as new" lens.
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MISC: Tamron SP 35-80 (01A), Auto Chinon Tomioka 1.4/55, Tokina AT-X 2.5/90, Tamron SP 5,6/300 (54B)
ZEISS: WG Distagon 2.8/25, WG Distagon 2.8/35 HFT, WG Planar HFT 1.4/50, Ultron 1.8/50, WG Sonnar 2.8/85, WG Sonnar HFT 2.8/135
VOIGTLÄNDER : Ultron Aspherical 1.8/21, Ultron 2/28, Nokton Aspherical 1.2/35, Nokton Classic 1.4/40, Nokton 1.2/50, Nokton Aspherical 1.5/50, Color-Heliar 2.5/75
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LEITZ: SUMMICRON-R 2/35 (II), SUMMICRON-R 2/50 (II), TELE ELMARIT-M 2,8/90 (Thin)
CANON RF: 2.8/28, 2/35, 1.2/50, 1.4/50, 1.5/50, Serenar 1.8/50, 2/85, 2/100, 3.5/100
LTM : YASHICA YASHINON 1.8/5cm, FUJINON L 2/5cm, CHIYODA KOGAKU SUPER ROKKOR 1.8/5cm, CHIYOKO SUPER ROKKOR C 2/5cm, TOKYO KOGAKU Topcor-S 2/5cm, Nippon Kogaku NIKKOR-H.C 2/5cm, KMZ Jupiter-8 2/5cm
DKL : VOIGTLÄNDER SKOPAREX 3,4/35, SEPTON 2/50, DYNAREX 3,4/90, SUPER-DYNAREX 4/135, Scheiner-Kreuznach Retina-Xenon 1,9/50
And a small Minolta AF set: 2.8/20, 1.4/35, 1.4/50, 2/100, 4.5/100-200
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Lightshow
Joined: 04 Nov 2011
Posts: 3666
Location: Calgary
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| Posted: Wed May 28, 2014 8:17 pm Post subject: |
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Lightshow wrote:
I swapped elements in a Helios 44-2.
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ceedjay
Joined: 02 Dec 2013
Posts: 32
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| Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2014 10:16 pm Post subject: |
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ceedjay wrote:
Hi !
Thanks a lot for your answers. I did some sesting and appart from "comfort", there is no difference in IQ, so I'll just use the one with the sweetest focus ring and iris.
Cheers
Jay |
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raay04
Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 340
Location: India
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| Posted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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raay04 wrote:
See my Post
http://forum.mflenses.com/frankenstein-jupiter8-on-nex-3-t60861.html
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Super-Takumar 55/1.8, Super-Takumar 50/1.4 ,SMC Takumar 50/1.4 ,MC Helios 44M7-58/2,MC Helios 77M-4 50/1.8,Helios 44-2(valdai), Zenitar-M 50/1.7 Pentacon 50/1.8, MC Jupiter-37AM 135/3.5, Industar 50-2 50/3.5
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vipabccd
Joined: 03 Aug 2015
Posts: 1
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| Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 3:52 am Post subject: Thank you for sharing |
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vipabccd wrote:
Thank you for sharing 
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009
Posts: 7795
Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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| Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 11:01 am Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
I have a PentaMog - made from a Pentacon 200 / 4 and it's Meyer Optik Gorlitz brother. One of my favourite lenses.
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John Shriver
Joined: 24 Dec 2009
Posts: 199
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| Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2015 2:38 am Post subject: |
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John Shriver wrote:
I would expect to have to collimate the lens after swapping elements, since they do vary in thickness. (Controlling the radius of curvature of each side is practical, but making every element the same thickness is much harder.) This is a matter of getting the infinity stop or ship correct for the lens to focus at infinity when set there.
Certainly for some lenses, they will pick sets of elements that are optimal together.
Also, do NOT try this on a rangefinder lens! You will change the focal length, and the rangefinder cam will be wrong. Leica makes focusing mounts (for 50mm) or rangefinder cams (other lenses) for many different ranges of focal lengths for a given lens. |
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