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räuber
Joined: 13 Nov 2021 Posts: 33
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Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2022 3:24 pm Post subject: lenses for low light |
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räuber wrote:
I try to find good lenses for low light for quite some time now. So what are your recommendations? And are there any good vintage low light lenses? Or does it has to be the huge heavy modern F1.4 lens if you want clean images in dim light?
A little bit of context from my experience.
If you want to take pictures in dim or low light and keep the ISO value low enough you need a lens with a bigger aperture to achieve this. You need a lens that "sucks" in more light, with a higher light transmission. The lower the F-stop the bigger the aperture but the smaller is the DOF (the depth of focus). And the lower the F-stop the more inferior the sharpness of most lenses become. So it is a double edged sword to take a lens with F1.4 or F1.0 or even F0.95 and expect to get sharp images in dark places.
The other issue is that F-stop is not T-stop. The F-stop only tells you partly the truth about how dark or light a lens is at the maximum aperture. A F1.4 lens can be as bright as an F1.8 or even F2.8 lens. A lot of vintage lenses suffer from this. And even expensive modern lenses will not behave in such a way. The light transmission is measured in T-stops and only cinema lenses offer a scale with T-stops. Most film lenses miss a T-stop rating and even the best review sites do not measure the real T-stop of a given lens.
And it is not easy to measure the T-stop by any means. Modern cameras with integrated lightmeter will adjust ISO and speed on what they see but they seem to do it differently for AF and manual (or dumb) lenses. I give you an example:
Sony A7R iii
Voigtländer Nokton 50mm F1.2 VM @1.2 with dumb adapter => 1/125s Auto ISO 5000
Voigtländer Nokton 50mm F1.2 VM @1.2 with LEA2 Techart adapter => 1/125s Auto ISO 3200
Voigtländer Nokton 40mm F1.2 SE @1.2 (with aperture send to camera) => 1/125s Auto ISO 2500
The same scene, the same target but different auto ISO values. If you use a vintage lens on a camera like the Sony A7R iii the automatic will not use it as it's fullest in low light situations. You need to dial in negative EV values to compensate for this. A lot of modern lenses will give you better low light performance by just sending their aperture value to the camera. The Auto ISO corrects differently for F1.4, F2.0 or F2.8.
On a dumb adapter all lenses I tested do not reach the expected ISO value on modern cameras. Going from F2.8 to F2.0 increases ISO as expected by one full stop. But south from F2.0 things get difficult. A lot of F1.4 lenses only reach ISO of a F1.8 lens. And even F1.2 only gets you F1.6 at best.
So it is a valid question: Do you need any vintage / manual F1.4 or F1.0 lens for low light shooting? A sharp F1.8 lens will give you T1.8 with sharp images in low light. But which F1.4, F1.2, F1.0, F0.95 lenses will get you a further benefit?
To answer my own question.
The Voigtländer Nokton 40mm 1.2 SE is small and is one hell of a low light lens when it comes to Auto ISO. The brightest I have found so far. For sharpness it is good up close in the center wide open but with bad corners.
The Voigtländer Nokton 50mm 1.2 VM is sharp in the center wide open with a little better corners than the 40mm. But the Auto ISO is not its best friend even if it is brighter than most other manual lenses.
It will be interesting how the Nokton 35mm 1.2 iii will fare compared with the 40 and 50... |
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7581 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2022 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
There is NIKKOR Z 58mm f/0.95 S Noct which DXO rate it 35 P-Mpix in Sharpness and 1.1 TStop in Transmission on A Nikon Z7... Modern lens will win in both Sharpness and Transmission. _________________ The best lens is the one you have with you.
https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/ |
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Gatorengineer64
Joined: 26 Oct 2017 Posts: 283
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 1:03 am Post subject: |
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Gatorengineer64 wrote:
Alot of folks love the Chinesium 0.95s from the Mitakon or zongyi. They are less than 1/10 the the price of the noct. i they didn't appeal to me and got returned but ymmv.
At high speed two things seem to matter sharpness and character. I love my Minolta 58 1.2 for its character., I love the voigt 40 1.2 for the qualities you mention. _________________ A7R4, GFX50R and a bucket of mflenses |
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kathala
Joined: 13 May 2022 Posts: 142
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 7:25 am Post subject: |
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kathala wrote:
[quote="Gatorengineer64"]Alot of folks love the Chinesium 0.95s from the Mitakon or zongyi. They are less than 1/10 the the price of the noct.
[/quote]
true, but they are NOT f/.95, but f/1.06: see photonstophotos.net//GeneralTopics/Lenses/OpticalBench/OpticalBench.htm#Data/CN111965793_Example01P.txt,figureOpacity=0.25,AxisO,OffAxis (look at "f#", i.e. the mathematical f/ number, not a measured T value!)
I have yet to see a sharp fast lens from Voigtländer. I had the 35/1.2 I and II, and both were outrageously dismal rubbish wide-open. I even sent the Mk II to the official Voigtländer for adjustment - it came back with a 250 EUR bill (!!), but no sharper!
Might I direct you to my reference table of fastest lenses, specifically chapter 3ff of this one:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1WKzZoHmyEaVV18iuB7oP-CcAxf_QLwAYhyL-vjYFIBE/edit?usp=drive_web&ouid=108628632450090560676
The SHARPEST of these might be
35 and 45 .95 Laowa (evil only)
58 .95 Nikon Z Noct-Nikkor (evil only)
85 1.2 Canon RF (evil only)
Decent are
35 1.2 DZOptics Kerlee (SLR)
35, 5o, 85 1.2 Samyang XP (SLR)
5o 1.2 Canon RF (evil only) _________________ Photography Reference Tables:
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1aJ5F8XM6t5AK4bydthcDoiwhsh5CUx3N
My Art and Books: ChristianSchnalzger.de
My Exploration of Panoramic Photographic Storytelling:
flickr.com/photos/hach_und_ueberhaupt/
The better you look, the more you see (B. E. Ellis) |
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kypfer
Joined: 27 Sep 2017 Posts: 523 Location: Jersey C.I.
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 7:40 am Post subject: |
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kypfer wrote:
My EBC Fujinon-W 35mm f/1.9 in 42-screw has always provided most of my low-light requirements.
My 8-element Pentax Super Takumar 50mm f/1.4 (also in M42) is also very good
I had EBC-Fujinon 50mm f/1.2 in AX mount for a few years, but it became obsolescent when I "went digital" (long before mirrorless cameras) and it was sold to an "enthusiastic" collector |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021 Posts: 1428 Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 9:59 am Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
That's really many implicit questions rather than one
To answer the obvious question:
- no, there are there are no good vintage low light lenses if you are expecting perfect corners and zero spherical aberration and CA when shooting wide-open
- yes, there are quite a few good vintage low light lenses if you are after pleasing images when shooting wide-open
I am quite pleased with the rendering of my Minolta MC ROKKOR 35mm/1.8, MC ROKKOR 58mm/1.2, MC ROKKOR 85mm/1.7, AUTO ROKKOR 100mm/2 and MD 135mm/2 lenses...
And sometimes a tripod or other support is simply the more sensible solution... _________________ Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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eggplant
Joined: 27 May 2020 Posts: 517
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 11:58 am Post subject: |
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eggplant wrote:
Surely f0.95 + digital camera with a few stops of sensor stabilization and 1-2 stops better high ISO performance is going to allow you to shoot in very low light circumstances?
Understandably, this is only in comparison to what we had before with film- if this still isn't enough on its own, then fair. Or if you're doing video.
Calling these lenses "chinesium" is being ignorant and stupid, give it a rest. |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 3:22 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
I suppose "low light" is a somewhat flexible term. If I choose to define "low light" as f/2 or lower (or wider), then I have several lenses I can recommend.
At the top of my recommendations is the Canon FD 85mm f/1.2 Aspherical. It is usually readily available on eBay, but prices are often quite high.
Other f/1.2 lenses I own that I consider to be worthy contenders:
Canon FD 50mm f/1.2 SSC (Canon made an Aspherical model, but it is very pricey)
Canon FL 55mm f/1.2
Canon LTM (39mm thread) 50mm f/1.2
If you're willing to consider f/1.4 as acceptable, there are many lenses to choose from. I own:
Canon FD 50mm f/1.4 SSC
Canon nFD 50mm f/1.4
Minolta MD 50mm f/1.4
Nikon Nikkor Pre-AI, AI and AIs 50mm f/1.4
Asahi Pentax Super Takumar 50mm f/1.4
Pentax M 50mm f/1.4
Some f/1.8 lenses I own:
Canon nFD 85mm f/1.8
Canon FD 50mm f/1.8 SC
Canon LTM (39mm thread) 50mm f/1.8
Minolta MD 50mm f/1.8
Nikon Nikkor AIs 50mm f/1.8
My only f/1.9:
Vivitar 35mm f/1.9
Now, even though the following lenses are slower than f/2, they bear consideration because they are fast telephoto:
Canon nFD 200mm f/2.8
Canon nFD 300mm f/2.8 L
Nikon Nikkor AIs 180mm f/2.8 ED
Nikon Nikkor 300mm f/2.8 ED
Tamron SP 180mm f/2.5 LD
Tamron SP 300mm f/2.8 LD
Tamron SP 80-200mm f/2.8 LD _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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räuber
Joined: 13 Nov 2021 Posts: 33
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 4:49 pm Post subject: |
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räuber wrote:
For low light I do not need sharp corners wide open. But a sharp center to the 1/3d line helps a lot.
Canons 50ies are plenty sharp. My Canon nFD 50mm F1.4 SSC is sharp in close range and infinity. But the F1.4 aperture is not brighter than F1.8 on a Sony 55mm F1.8 ZA. I've got a Canon nFD 50mm F1.2 SSC in the past and it was as sharp enough wide open and rewarded me with some of my most beloved images.
I own a Samyang 35mm F1.4 and wide open it is as good as the Voigtländer Nokton 40mm F1.2 both in sharpness as in transmission. But it is heavy and big. So I do not take it with me very often. Instead I would take the Sony FE 35mm F1.8 with me for AF or the Nokton 40mm 1.2 for the extra stop. |
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D1N0
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 2536
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 4:59 pm Post subject: |
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D1N0 wrote:
If you need good corners in a low light situation, the solution is simple. A tripod. You can stop down all you want. If you don't carry one use what is around to put your camera on. _________________ pentaxian |
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KEO
Joined: 27 Sep 2018 Posts: 775 Location: USA
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 5:36 pm Post subject: |
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KEO wrote:
The ZY Optics Speedmaster 35mm 0.95 is very nice, but it's an aps-c lens.
It's big brother, the Speedmaster 85mm 1.2 is an extremely good full-frame lens.
There's also a Speedmaster 50mm 0.95, but I haven't tried that one. |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 11053 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 5:51 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Maybe what we really want to know is what is the miniimum acceptable shutter speed to freeze motion of your subjects? Then we can specify a camera with quality high iso, and, a lens speed. Maybe a survey of lenses sorted with high T-stop (low T-stop numbers). _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
Last edited by visualopsins on Sun Jul 10, 2022 6:55 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4745 Location: Cheshire, England
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 6:43 pm Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
my tuppence:
F1.2 is half a stop faster than f1.4. The extra elements probably lose that much anyway. _________________ Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
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Gerald
Joined: 25 Mar 2014 Posts: 1196 Location: Brazil
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 6:55 pm Post subject: |
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Gerald wrote:
In the age of film, fast lenses were important, and even essential, for certain applications, such as photojournalism or sports. However, we are now in other time, when a typical digital sensor is much more sensitive than photographic film.
Today, lens manufacturers continue to design super-fast lenses, but we should look at the matter more technically and less emotionally. Consider, for example, a super fast F1.0 lens. This lens is only one stop faster than an F1.4 lens and 2 stops faster than an F2.0 lens. However, a digital FF sensor is about 6 stops more sensitive than film! That means an F8.0 lens plus a digital sensor is equivalent to an F1.0 lens plus film! So for low light photography, a fast lens is much less needed today than it used to be.
Even a cell phone, which uses a small sensor, therefore less sensitive than an FF or APS-C sensor, can take excellent photos in low light. Modern fast lens designs are justified more for "artistic" reasons (selective focus, nice bokeh, etc.) than for low-light photography. Perhaps astrophotography is an exception, where faster lenses are always welcome.
P.S.: Another extraordinary advancement in digital photography was the development of image stabilization of 4 or 5 stops, or even more. This means an effective sensitivity gain of 10 to 11 stops, at least for photos of static subjects, compared to the state-of-the-art at the time of the film. _________________ If raindrops were perfect lenses, the rainbow did not exist. |
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7581 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 7:07 pm Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
I would consider F1.4/F1.5 is the sweet pot for most fast lenses. _________________ The best lens is the one you have with you.
https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/ |
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D1N0
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 2536
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 8:19 pm Post subject: |
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D1N0 wrote:
Gerald wrote: |
In the age of film, fast lenses were important, and even essential, for certain applications, such as photojournalism or sports. However, we are now in other time, when a typical digital sensor is much more sensitive than photographic film.
Today, lens manufacturers continue to design super-fast lenses, but we should look at the matter more technically and less emotionally. Consider, for example, a super fast F1.0 lens. This lens is only one stop faster than an F1.4 lens and 2 stops faster than an F2.0 lens. However, a digital FF sensor is about 6 stops more sensitive than film! That means an F8.0 lens plus a digital sensor is equivalent to an F1.0 lens plus film! So for low light photography, a fast lens is much less needed today than it used to be.
Even a cell phone, which uses a small sensor, therefore less sensitive than an FF or APS-C sensor, can take excellent photos in low light. Modern fast lens designs are justified more for "artistic" reasons (selective focus, nice bokeh, etc.) than for low-light photography. Perhaps astrophotography is an exception, where faster lenses are always welcome.
P.S.: Another extraordinary advancement in digital photography was the development of image stabilization of 4 or 5 stops, or even more. This means an effective sensitivity gain of 10 to 11 stops, at least for photos of static subjects, compared to the state-of-the-art at the time of the film. |
Nowadays it's not about being fast, it's about DOF being is narrow as possible for 'artistic' purposes. Smartphones use multiple exposures to overcome poor low light performance, that used to be the weak point of phones. Computational photography has taken over phones. Heavy noise reduction is standard, they fake bokeh they smooth out skin, they increase vibrancy to ridiculous levels. Phones are Photoshop automatons. _________________ pentaxian |
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caspert79
Joined: 31 Oct 2010 Posts: 3217 Location: The Netherlands
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 8:41 pm Post subject: |
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caspert79 wrote:
In terms of bang for your bucks, the Samyang 85/1.4 is a winner IMO. _________________ For Sale:
Steinheil Auto D Tele Quinar 135mm f/2.8 (Exa)
ISCO Isconar 100mm f/4 (Exa)
Steinheil Cassarit 50mm f/2.8 M39 (Paxette)
I'm always interested in trading lenses! |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9096 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 11:02 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
visualopsins wrote: |
Maybe what we really want to know is what is the miniimum acceptable shutter speed to freeze motion of your subjects? Then we can specify a camera with quality high iso, and, a lens speed. Maybe a survey of lenses sorted with high T-stop (low T-stop numbers). |
Back in my salad days, I was a motorsports photographer and I also attended airshows whenever I could. There is one thing a photographer who specializes in this sort of thing must do to make their photos look convincing, and that is to blur motion -- specifically wheel motion of racecars and propeller motion of airplanes. If one neglects the "blur rule" and shoots at too high a shutter speed, one ends up with racecars frozen to tracks and airplanes hanging in the air. So, in other words, blur gives one a convincing analog of speed. In real world conditions, I've found that the absolute minimum shutter speed one can shoot at and hope for any notion of propeller or wheel blur is 1/250 second. I/125 is better. 1/60 is ideal. So, following this guideline, if you want to stop motion then I recommend shooting at speeds of 1/500 or faster.
But it also depends on the motion you're trying to stop. I'm not a pilot, but I do know that props lose efficiency when they reach the speed of sound, so going supersonic at the propeller tips is undesirable. I can assume then that a prop will always be spinning at subsonic speeds. Since the speed of sound depends on things like barometric pressure and relative humidity, I always use an approximation of 1000 feet per second. In most cases, that's a bit slow, but 1000 ft/sec is just fine for this topic. If you change ft/sec to miles/hour (1.6 x mph = km/h), you get about 680 mph. So 1/250 almost stops props and tires spinning at 680 mph, and 1/500 second definitely does. Thus you also know that, if something is moving or rotating at an even higher rate of speed, then obviously a faster shutter speed might be required.
Please note that 680 mph is the rotational speed of a propeller or tire, not the forward speed of the racecar or warplane. Also, please note that this is a maximum speed, especially with respect to propellers, and that they are often rotating at substantially slower speeds. Realistically, however, this 680 mph limit applies to propellers, and not to tires. Also, please note that, if you want to convert rotational speed to revolutions per minute, you need tire or propeller diameter, which complicates things. But I've crunched the numbers for a couple of examples. Given a tire with a 30" diameter, it would have to be rotating at 7619 rpm, but that neglects gear reductions that occur. With many cars, including race cars, they have a final drive ratio of 1:1 with the transmission in its top gear. But then the drive goes through the differential, which further reduces revolutions. Given a medium-ish differential ratio of 3.5:1, this means that the tire's rotational speed is 2176 rpm. Given a propeller with a 12 foot diameter, it would have to be rotating at 1587 rpm. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021 Posts: 1428 Location: Kent, UK
Expire: 2025-05-01
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Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 9:41 am Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
cooltouch wrote: |
Given a tire with a 30" diameter, it would have to be rotating at 7619 rpm, but that neglects gear reductions that occur. With many cars, including race cars, they have a final drive ratio of 1:1 with the transmission in its top gear. But then the drive goes through the differential, which further reduces revolutions. Given a medium-ish differential ratio of 3.5:1, this means that the tire's rotational speed is 2176 rpm. Given a propeller with a 12 foot diameter, it would have to be rotating at 1587 rpm. |
You don't have to bother with the gearbox details for the race car
All you need is tyre diameter and vehicle speed.
E.g., an F1 car with nominally 700mm diameter tyres travelling at a fast but not top speed of 300km/h gives a tyre/wheel rpm of approx. 2,274 rpm so pretty much broadly in line with your number.
Helicopter rotors are much slower at between 230 rpm to 600 rpm depending on helicopter size and whether its is civilian/military. About 300-400rpm for your average helicopter. People often vastly overestimate helicopter main rotor rpm. On the larger helicopters if you focus on the swash plate drive link at the centre of the rotor rather than the blade tips, you can follow it going round with your eye. _________________ Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7581 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 11:33 am Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
caspert79 wrote: |
In terms of bang for your bucks, the Samyang 85/1.4 is a winner IMO. |
+1. Both the AF/MF version has good price–performance ratio. _________________ The best lens is the one you have with you.
https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/ |
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Gerald
Joined: 25 Mar 2014 Posts: 1196 Location: Brazil
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Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 1:13 pm Post subject: |
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Gerald wrote:
Gerald wrote: |
Modern fast lens designs are justified more for "artistic" reasons (selective focus, nice bokeh, etc.) than for low-light photography. Perhaps astrophotography is an exception, where faster lenses are always welcome.
. |
D1N0 wrote: |
Nowadays it's not about being fast, it's about DOF being is narrow as possible for 'artistic' purposes. |
It's interesting to note that in the good old days, everyone considered a fast lens to be just a tool for low-light photography. In general, shallow DOF was seen as a liability, not a resource to be used for artistic purposes. Take the famous case of the movie Barry Lyndon, when Kubrick used a very special lens, Zeiss 50mm F0.7, only because he wanted to record scenes in gaming rooms lit only by candles. But let there be candles! Dozens and dozens of candles to get enough light to expose the low-sensitivity films of the time. I kept thinking that gaming rooms at the time really used so many candles for lighting...
Speaking of image quality, let's face it, compared to a "slow" F2.0 Double-Gauss lens, the optical quality of the Zeiss 50mm F0.7 lens is poor. Tons and tons of coma, very evident in the images of candle flames. Most importantly, the lens allowed filming in conditions similar to a time when electric light bulbs had not yet been invented. _________________ If raindrops were perfect lenses, the rainbow did not exist. |
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Manichaean
Joined: 03 Oct 2013 Posts: 70
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Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2022 2:01 pm Post subject: Re: lenses for low light |
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Manichaean wrote:
räuber wrote: |
I try to find good lenses for low light for quite some time now. So what are your recommendations? And are there any good vintage low light lenses? Or does it has to be the huge heavy modern F1.4 lens if you want clean images in dim light?
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I can vouch for Canon nFD 100mm f2. It is a good lens and quite compact as well, though rather on the heafty side. |
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KEO
Joined: 27 Sep 2018 Posts: 775 Location: USA
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Posted: Sat Jul 16, 2022 5:52 pm Post subject: |
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KEO wrote:
cooltouch wrote: |
I was a motorsports photographer and I also attended airshows whenever I could. There is one thing a photographer who specializes in this sort of thing must do to make their photos look convincing, and that is to blur motion... |
Fun to read your post.
Just last week I visited my local race track and brought my camera for the first time. I wasn't sure what it was going to be like for photography, but I figured I'd try to get some simple shots of the crowd watching the race, so I stuck my tiny and dirt cheap Pergear 25mm f/1.8 (which I hardly ever use) on my XT-2 and tried it out.
I got some pretty good images, but the main thing I noticed is that shots I took with a high shutter speed just look weird. With no sense of the motion of the cars they look incredibly strange - as though they're simply parked on the track in front of the crowd.
I ended up getting some shots I like when I dropped down to F/16 and about 1/8s shutter speed. The cars are mostly just long streaks in front of the slightly blurry crowd, but it looks a lot more believable. It looks like a race. |
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