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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 724
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 Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 6:01 pm Post subject: Developing multiple films |
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alaios wrote:
Hi,
I am planning tomorrow evening to develop quite of films... My developer is and ilford dd-x and I also have the ilford rapid fixer.
According to the ilford each time I reuse the same developer I should increase processing time by a 10%.
I have only one tank and thus my process would be developer, developer goes out in a bottle (that is specific for only developer)
fixer goes in, fixer goes out (in a bottle specific for the fixer)....
Developer (from the bottle now) goes back in.... development time increases 10 % and so on.
IS there anything else I should take into account?
For the drying of my negatives I can only leave them hanging for around 12 hours, since you have recommended me 24 hours, I am plannign to turn on the heating to speed up the process.
Any more feedback?
I would like to thank you for your reply
Regards
Alex
_________________
“The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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bernhardas
Joined: 01 Jan 2013
Posts: 1432
Expire: 2017-05-23
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| Posted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 7:21 pm Post subject: |
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bernhardas wrote:
Edited
Last edited by bernhardas on Mon Apr 04, 2016 4:17 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
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| Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 5:38 am Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
cool advice thanks... Btw increasing 10% for the fixer, I do not think is needed. According to my ilford dd-x I have to do that for the developer
Alex
_________________
“The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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bernhardas
Joined: 01 Jan 2013
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| Posted: Thu Jan 22, 2015 10:02 am Post subject: |
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bernhardas wrote:
Edited
Last edited by bernhardas on Mon Apr 04, 2016 4:17 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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RSalles
Joined: 12 Aug 2012
Posts: 1372
Location: Brazil - RS / South
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| Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2015 2:59 am Post subject: |
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RSalles wrote:
Alexandros,
You best start thinking in use a "one shot" developer as Agfa Rodinal or HC-110. Both I use with 1:25, 1:50 or 1:100 dilution, and at the end is thrown away, not reused, Bear i mind that the minim amount of concentrate developer must always be used: for HC-100 if my memory doesn't threats me is 6cc per film roll. The minimum amount.
You have to use a Stop Bath between developer and fixer as the developer risk to contaminate the fixer ruining it. I use Acetic Acid or Citric acid. If you want I can send you the mixing recipes for mixing yourself. It's cheap and efficient, 4cc of Acetic Acid 90% concentrate is mixed to 1L of water, and can be reused several times. Just careful because this is somewhat toxic and the concentrate stinks as the hell,
Cheers,
Renato |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 724
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| Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 1:03 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Hi Renato,
yes please send me your details for the stopping bath.
ACtually I developed 8 films in a row. My tank could fit two at a time. My development time was increased 10% each time I was refilling my tank.
I have not scanned the results but they actually look good and nice 
I still feel pitty with the amount of water lost when washing my films...
Regards
Alex
_________________
“The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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RSalles
Joined: 12 Aug 2012
Posts: 1372
Location: Brazil - RS / South
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| Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 1:34 pm Post subject: |
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RSalles wrote:
Had to search at my nearby lost files the formula:
"Stop Bath - 30 seconds - I have always used the formula Adams gives (1.5 ounces of 28% acetic acid and water to make 1 quart; or 45ml 28% acetic acid and water to make 1 liter). This is a 1.25% dilution. To dilute glacial acetic acid to 28%, combine 3 parts acid with 8 parts water, carefully. Wear acid-proof gloves and eye protection; work outside if possible and don’t breathe the fumes."
Cheers,
Renato |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 724
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| Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Hi thanks.. does not look very safe given that there are no windows in bathroom and I have a small child at home
Any tips on preserving water?
Regards
Alex
_________________
“The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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RSalles
Joined: 12 Aug 2012
Posts: 1372
Location: Brazil - RS / South
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| Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 3:52 pm Post subject: |
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RSalles wrote:
Alaios,
Just mix the acetic acid outdoors and you'll be safe - no fumes.
For water preservation, go with Hypo Clearing agent, you'll shorten the washing time a lot,
Cheers,
Renato |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 724
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| Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 7:54 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Hi,
I will google it tomorrow to see what is about
Thanks.
Btw, what is wrong with my process? Can I keep my fixer ? (I have discarded my developer)
Regards
Alex
_________________
“The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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RSalles
Joined: 12 Aug 2012
Posts: 1372
Location: Brazil - RS / South
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| Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2015 8:01 pm Post subject: |
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RSalles wrote:
Alaios,
When the fixer takes 2X the time to clear the negative base as it used to take when new, just discard it and use a new fixer solution.
That's the way we do,
Best,
Renato |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 724
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| Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 8:14 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Thanks for the answer
I am not sure what you mean though. It seems like I have to "look" for something
Regards
Alex
_________________
“The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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RSalles
Joined: 12 Aug 2012
Posts: 1372
Location: Brazil - RS / South
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| Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 8:26 pm Post subject: |
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RSalles wrote:
Alaios,
Yes, you have to look at the negative itself at - exemple - 4mns. If it's perfectly clear - the acetate base - when the clearing takes 8 mn to make effect discard the fixer. This numbers are for example purposes only,
Best,
Renato |
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elee950021
Joined: 01 Feb 2015
Posts: 5
Location: United States
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| Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 5:27 pm Post subject: Re: Developing multiple films |
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elee950021 wrote:
| alaios wrote: |
Hi,
I am planning tomorrow evening to develop quite of films... My developer is and ilford dd-x and I also have the ilford rapid fixer.
According to the ilford each time I reuse the same developer I should increase processing time by a 10%.
I have only one tank and thus my process would be developer, developer goes out in a bottle (that is specific for only developer)
fixer goes in, fixer goes out (in a bottle specific for the fixer)....
Developer (from the bottle now) goes back in.... development time increases 10 % and so on.
IS there anything else I should take into account?
For the drying of my negatives I can only leave them hanging for around 12 hours, since you have recommended me 24 hours, I am plannign to turn on the heating to speed up the process.
Any more feedback?
I would like to thank you for your reply
Regards
Alex |
Hi Alex!
I hope your films developed satisfactory. Just a couple of comments to help make your life easier. For more consistent results, I would suggest mixing your developer at an earlier time and wait at least an hour before you use it to be sure that the developer concentrate has fully mixed with the water and any air bubbles have dissipated from the solution. Depending on the room temperatures and time of year, use the "drift by" method: start film development using the developer (@ 8 minutes or so) 2 degrees higher and as you develop the film, the solution in the tank slowly drifts downward and when you pour out the developer, it has dropped 2 degrees so you average out at the recommended time. For example, reading 68 degrees on the chart, you start development @ 70 degrees and when you finish, the developer will be 66 degrees but overall will average 68 degrees. You will have to test this technique!
Instead of acetic acid as a stop we used plain water with good agitation to remove most of the developer on the film surfaces. Then we used rapid fixer without hardnener if it's packaged with the fixer (smaller bottle sometimes labled "B"). This component just increases fixing times. A quart or liter of rapid fixer can fix upwards of 25 rolls depending upon how much undeveloped silver halides are removed by the fixer. High key images where the negative looks dark contain less undeveloped silver halides so the fixer exhausts slower while more transparent negatives require the fixer to remove more undeveloped silver halides and exhausts faster. Hopefully your negatives balance out in terms of film density. Also agitation, more shaking and rotation only helps speed the fixing process as you need not worry about streaking and over development as with the developer. Slight over fixing will not harm your film.
As to washing, both Ilford and Kodak developed techniques to fully wash film with minimum water. Start by filling your tank using fresh water close to developer and fixer temperatures and with the lid on, agitate for a minute or two. Pour out that water and again fill up your tank with fresh water and repeat. Do this 20 times and your film will be washed. Use a wetting agent such as "Photo-Flo" or Ilford's version to prevent water spots on dried film. You can use forced heat to dry your negatives but beware that they will be prone to curl toward the emulsion and when scanning or printing cause the edges to be out of focus. Depending upon ambient temperature, film will be dried in several hours. Hang in your bathtub, close the curtain or door and if there's space above the shower, place a clean piece of cardboard over the wet negs to prevent dust from landing on film.
My bona fides: I was the working partner/manager in our custom lab business for over 35 years. I used and/or tested every developing technique and method out there to obtain optimum quality. I retired in 2008 and rediscovered my personal film work from the 70's and 80's and the negs looks as fresh as when I first cut them down and contacted them. I personally processed over 300K rolls of black and white for our business.
I hope these tips help. If you need clarification, don't hesitate to email me.
Best wishes,
_________________
Ed Lee
President, Park West Camera Club, NY, NY
www.parkwestcameraclub.org/index-2.html
Organizer, www.meetup.com/NYPhotoSafari/
Digital photography since late 90's. My business offered digital services as well as usual analogue silver halide processes of the times.
Currently shoot with Nikon D800, D700 and Canon 5DMk2, IDsMk3, 1DsMk2 and a slew of lenses. Just picked up a used Sony Nex 5 to play around! |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 724
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| Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 10:30 am Post subject: Re: Developing multiple films |
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alaios wrote:
Hi,
great answer. I appreciate the time spent
see inline for specific comment
| elee950021 wrote: |
Hi Alex!
I hope your films developed satisfactory. Just a couple of comments to help make your life easier. For more consistent results, I would suggest mixing your developer at an earlier time and wait at least an hour before you use it to be sure that the developer concentrate has fully mixed with the water and any air bubbles have dissipated from the solution. Depending on the room temperatures and time of year, use the "drift by" method: start film development using the developer (@ 8 minutes or so) 2 degrees higher and as you develop the film, the solution in the tank slowly drifts downward and when you pour out the developer, it has dropped 2 degrees so you average out at the recommended time. For example, reading 68 degrees on the chart, you start development @ 70 degrees and when you finish, the developer will be 66 degrees but overall will average 68 degrees. You will have to test this technique!
|
My developed films look okayish.. I have not developed many and thus I am not sure if I did something wrong. Some of them look overexposed but I am not sure it was my metering technique wrong or my development process. Regarding the temperature control this is something I really have problems with.... I am throwing my thermometer in my liquid but sometimes it says 24 centigrades other times says 20..... So far I have been relying in the fact that black and white film is "robust"... I am having trouble measuring the temperature and bringing my liquids at the same temperature...
| elee950021 wrote: |
Instead of acetic acid as a stop we used plain water with good agitation to remove most of the developer on the film surfaces. Then we used rapid fixer without hardnener if it's packaged with the fixer (smaller bottle sometimes labled "B"). This component just increases fixing times. A quart or liter of rapid fixer can fix upwards of 25 rolls depending upon how much undeveloped silver halides are removed by the fixer. High key images where the negative looks dark contain less undeveloped silver halides so the fixer exhausts slower while more transparent negatives require the fixer to remove more undeveloped silver halides and exhausts faster. Hopefully your negatives balance out in terms of film density. Also agitation, more shaking and rotation only helps speed the fixing process as you need not worry about streaking and over development as with the developer. Slight over fixing will not harm your film.
|
Hi, I think I was pouring in my fixer directly after my developer was out of the tank. I am using the fixer of ilford but I am not sure of its type. I will have to check that.
| elee950021 wrote: |
As to washing, both Ilford and Kodak developed techniques to fully wash film with minimum water. Start by filling your tank using fresh water close to developer and fixer temperatures and with the lid on, agitate for a minute or two. Pour out that water and again fill up your tank with fresh water and repeat. Do this 20 times and your film will be washed. Use a wetting agent such as "Photo-Flo" or Ilford's version to prevent water spots on dried film. You can use forced heat to dry your negatives but beware that they will be prone to curl toward the emulsion and when scanning or printing cause the edges to be out of focus. Depending upon ambient temperature, film will be dried in several hours. Hang in your bathtub, close the curtain or door and if there's space above the shower, place a clean piece of cardboard over |
Hi,
I did not use water close to my developers temperature. I was using tap water and I guess it can be even 10 centigrades lower.... I did not use awetting agent.. I just some drops of kitchen detergent at the last rinse... Btw still fillling 20 times 640ml for rinsing is still a waste of water  I wish there was a magic liquid that you pour inside the tank and that is all ..
_________________
“The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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elee950021
Joined: 01 Feb 2015
Posts: 5
Location: United States
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| Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 7:51 pm Post subject: Re: Developing multiple films |
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elee950021 wrote:
[quote="alaios"]
Hi,
great answer. I appreciate the time spent
see inline for specific comment
Hi Alex!
When I developed film, especially with a new film developer, I always did tests. I would shoot a short roll of film (bulk loaded with 8-12 frames) at the normal camera setting and also half and one stop overexposed and half and one stop underexposed, 5 frames in total. Following the recommended time and temperature, I developed this roll normally, using standard agitation and fixing times, etc. You need an accurate dial thermometer, one that works by expansion and contraction internally and allows you to see the solution temperature immediately. The thermometer is most important as you're developing the film by the "Time and Temperature" technique. If the solution is several degrees high or low but the thermometer reads "68 degrees" for example, you will get incorrect development which leads to lack of good tonal ranges and an increase in film grain.
| alaios wrote: |
My developed films look okayish.. I have not developed many and thus I am not sure if I did something wrong. Some of them look overexposed but I am not sure it was my metering technique wrong or my development process. Regarding the temperature control this is something I really have problems with.... I am throwing my thermometer in my liquid but sometimes it says 24 centigrades other times says 20..... So far I have been relying in the fact that black and white film is "robust"... I am having trouble measuring the temperature and bringing my liquids at the same temperature...
|
I suggested a water "stop bath." If you pour in fixer directly after the developer has run out, the fixer will be exhausted sooner and fewer rolls fixed, maybe 18-20 instead of 25. The water basically washes away residual developer on the film surfaces and prepares it for the fixer.
| alaios wrote: |
Hi, I think I was pouring in my fixer directly after my developer was out of the tank. I am using the fixer of ilford but I am not sure of its type. I will have to check that.
I did not use water close to my developers temperature. I was using tap water and I guess it can be even 10 centigrades lower.... I did not use awetting agent.. I just some drops of kitchen detergent at the last rinse... Btw still fillling 20 times 640ml for rinsing is still a waste of water I wish there was a magic liquid that you pour inside the tank and that is all .. |
You must maintain the temperature of all the solutions as well as the wash water as closely as possible to get optimum results. When the developer is poured in, the film emulsion swells to react with the developer. By keeping all solutions within several degrees of each other the film will not swell and contract (if stop is much colder than developer) and swell again in the fixer if it's much warmer. When washing you wish to avoid too much of a difference in temperature as well. Too many extreme temperatures and swelling and the contracting of the film could lead to reticulation and coarse grain. There use to be a washing aide called "Permawash" which decreased washing time; other similar products exist: Ilford's version and Kodak's Hypo Clearing Agent (powder). Just be sure your detergent is not too strong or you'll get white spots or rings on the film. Your wash water is much too cold! You can probably use the wash water from the fill and dump technique from around the eighth cycle and higher as "grey water," not for drinking but for utilitarian purposes.
Best of luck and keep practicing! Ed
_________________
Ed Lee
President, Park West Camera Club, NY, NY
www.parkwestcameraclub.org/index-2.html
Organizer, www.meetup.com/NYPhotoSafari/
Digital photography since late 90's. My business offered digital services as well as usual analogue silver halide processes of the times.
Currently shoot with Nikon D800, D700 and Canon 5DMk2, IDsMk3, 1DsMk2 and a slew of lenses. Just picked up a used Sony Nex 5 to play around! |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 724
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| Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 8:04 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Thanks so let me summarize:
1. Pouring water just after the developer allows me to keep my fixer for longer period! Good tip and easily usable. Still though I do not "understand" what is a good quality fixer. In other terms how long I can keep the liquid
2. I need a better thermometer then.. Check.. can you give me some ebay link... I would need something that has a contracted element quite long enough that can go inside my cylinders that I use for measuring my liquids
3. Any tips on how to keep liquids at the same temperature? I keep my liquids in our storage box that gets no heating. I guess that the temperature would be like 2-4 centigrades below the rest of the house.. that typically is around 20 centigrades. How I also make sure that the liquids remain at the same temperature?
4. Even harder how to find so much water at the same temperature??? That is a lot.. I do not want to think how many bottles I need to keep water that would remain at an X temperature
5. Last one after having my films to dry I cut them into pieces of 5 frames, to make sure they get easily inside my film transparent holders... One comment though is the surface has still a lot of curvature... which unfortunately means that I have then problem putting my film 5-frame pieces into my scanner (film holder) for scanning.. Any tips on that?
I would like to thank you for your reply
Regards
Alex
_________________
“The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012
Posts: 4744
Location: Cheshire, England
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| Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 11:44 pm Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
| alaios wrote: |
Thanks so let me summarize:
1. Pouring water just after the developer allows me to keep my fixer for longer period! Good tip and easily usable. Still though I do not "understand" what is a good quality fixer. In other terms how long I can keep the liquid
2. I need a better thermometer then.. Check.. can you give me some ebay link... I would need something that has a contracted element quite long enough that can go inside my cylinders that I use for measuring my liquids
3. Any tips on how to keep liquids at the same temperature? I keep my liquids in our storage box that gets no heating. I guess that the temperature would be like 2-4 centigrades below the rest of the house.. that typically is around 20 centigrades. How I also make sure that the liquids remain at the same temperature?
4. Even harder how to find so much water at the same temperature??? That is a lot.. I do not want to think how many bottles I need to keep water that would remain at an X temperature
5. Last one after having my films to dry I cut them into pieces of 5 frames, to make sure they get easily inside my film transparent holders... One comment though is the surface has still a lot of curvature... which unfortunately means that I have then problem putting my film 5-frame pieces into my scanner (film holder) for scanning.. Any tips on that?
I would like to thank you for your reply
Regards
Alex |
1. All branded fixer is good quality. Dont overuse it. If it gets too discoloured throw it away.
2. Use a mercury/alcohol thermometer, the sensor (i.e. the bulb of liquid is small)
3 /4. Put your bottles of chemicals in a bowl of warm tap water about 24 degrees. The warm water will cool and bring the bottles up to the temp you want. Or bring the bottles into the living room a couple of hours before use. To quickly bring the bottles up to temp. I use a wide jug or bowl, big enough for the bottle of developer, put hot water from the kettle into it and dip the dev bottle into it for a couple of minutes. agitate the bottle and measure. half a degree isnt going to kill it as I've said on numerous occasions. The fixer temp isnt critical at all 4 or 5 degrees either way wont matter a bit
5. Left longer to dry the curvature will reduce. I have mentioned this more than once.
_________________
Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
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elee950021
Joined: 01 Feb 2015
Posts: 5
Location: United States
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| Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 10:54 pm Post subject: |
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elee950021 wrote:
| philslizzy wrote: |
| alaios wrote: |
Thanks so let me summarize:
1. Pouring water just after the developer allows me to keep my fixer for longer period! Good tip and easily usable. Still though I do not "understand" what is a good quality fixer. In other terms how long I can keep the liquid
2. I need a better thermometer then.. Check.. can you give me some ebay link... I would need something that has a contracted element quite long enough that can go inside my cylinders that I use for measuring my liquids
3. Any tips on how to keep liquids at the same temperature? I keep my liquids in our storage box that gets no heating. I guess that the temperature would be like 2-4 centigrades below the rest of the house.. that typically is around 20 centigrades. How I also make sure that the liquids remain at the same temperature?
4. Even harder how to find so much water at the same temperature??? That is a lot.. I do not want to think how many bottles I need to keep water that would remain at an X temperature
5. Last one after having my films to dry I cut them into pieces of 5 frames, to make sure they get easily inside my film transparent holders... One comment though is the surface has still a lot of curvature... which unfortunately means that I have then problem putting my film 5-frame pieces into my scanner (film holder) for scanning.. Any tips on that?
I would like to thank you for your reply
Regards
Alex |
1. All branded fixer is good quality. Dont overuse it. If it gets too discoloured throw it away.
2. Use a mercury/alcohol thermometer, the sensor (i.e. the bulb of liquid is small)
3 /4. Put your bottles of chemicals in a bowl of warm tap water about 24 degrees. The warm water will cool and bring the bottles up to the temp you want. Or bring the bottles into the living room a couple of hours before use. To quickly bring the bottles up to temp. I use a wide jug or bowl, big enough for the bottle of developer, put hot water from the kettle into it and dip the dev bottle into it for a couple of minutes. agitate the bottle and measure. half a degree isnt going to kill it as I've said on numerous occasions. The fixer temp isnt critical at all 4 or 5 degrees either way wont matter a bit
5. Left longer to dry the curvature will reduce. I have mentioned this more than once. |
Alex!
As mentioned previously, all branded chemistry, not only fixer, is good quality. A 1 liter of working (not concentrate from bottle) rapid fixer will fix 20-25 rolls of 36 exposures. You just have to follow instructions. You can develop the film at a lower temperature, say 16 or 17 degrees Celsius but for a longer duration. Just follow the developing time chart. All the other solutions and wash water must also be at that temperature as well. Double your fixing time.
Here are some links: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=dial+thermometer
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/21946-REG/Heico_HG85_Perma_Wash_Liquid_for.html
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/168234-REG/Ilford_1970902_Universal_Wash_Aid_Liquid.html/prm/alsVwDtl
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/28195-REG/Kodak_1464510_Photo_Flo_200_Solution.html/prm/alsVwDtl
If you're not primarily making prints, only scanning, wash the film for less time. Use only 10 cycles, filling and dumping. The longer washing times is for archival results. If you have to, you can rewash the negatives at a later time.
Best wishes. Ed
_________________
Ed Lee
President, Park West Camera Club, NY, NY
www.parkwestcameraclub.org/index-2.html
Organizer, www.meetup.com/NYPhotoSafari/
Digital photography since late 90's. My business offered digital services as well as usual analogue silver halide processes of the times.
Currently shoot with Nikon D800, D700 and Canon 5DMk2, IDsMk3, 1DsMk2 and a slew of lenses. Just picked up a used Sony Nex 5 to play around! |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 724
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| Posted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:56 am Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Hi all,
thanks for the replies. I know this might sound that I am not overcomplicating.. I can still see that my process is not as good as I wanted to be. I can develop my negatives but I got a FP4 with grain... I am doing many things wrong so I need help to fine tune
-I know that branded developers are good, I picked ilford dd-x which is considered of very good quality and getting minimum grain with the fp4. Although my results look grainy so the ilford investment does not currently invest. My major problem is that it costs too much for one shot development. For my lifestyle (that is very busy) I would prefer one shot developments.. What do we have then as alternative for one shot developments that can handle all my iford films fp4,hp5,delta 3200 that were shot either at normal speed, pulled or pushed?
-As I said my hardest is keeping temperature constant and I am sure that If I improve on that I would see the quality I am looking forward to.
One way is to develop at cold water, since in Germany there is plenty (tap water) . Regarding the thermometer I need perhaps somethimg more accurate like this
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Digitales-Koch-Fleisch-Thermometer-Ofenthermometer-mit-Alarmfunktion-/400698133740?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item5d4b784cec
(I could not find your version in german ebay)
-I will also add a washing agent to save some water. I will just one that is not expensive and read the manual once it arrives. I would like to have archival quality.. even though I see that the negative holders I bought are not of best quality... Any tips for better negative holders?
I would like to thank you for your reply
Regards
Alex
_________________
“The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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elee950021
Joined: 01 Feb 2015
Posts: 5
Location: United States
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| Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2015 3:45 pm Post subject: |
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elee950021 wrote:
| alaios wrote: |
Hi all,
thanks for the replies. I know this might sound that I am not overcomplicating.. I can still see that my process is not as good as I wanted to be. I can develop my negatives but I got a FP4 with grain... I am doing many things wrong so I need help to fine tune
-I know that branded developers are good, I picked ilford dd-x which is considered of very good quality and getting minimum grain with the fp4. Although my results look grainy so the ilford investment does not currently invest. My major problem is that it costs too much for one shot development. For my lifestyle (that is very busy) I would prefer one shot developments.. What do we have then as alternative for one shot developments that can handle all my iford films fp4,hp5,delta 3200 that were shot either at normal speed, pulled or pushed?
-As I said my hardest is keeping temperature constant and I am sure that If I improve on that I would see the quality I am looking forward to.
One way is to develop at cold water, since in Germany there is plenty (tap water) . Regarding the thermometer I need perhaps somethimg more accurate like this
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Digitales-Koch-Fleisch-Thermometer-Ofenthermometer-mit-Alarmfunktion-/400698133740?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item5d4b784cec
(I could not find your version in german ebay)
-I will also add a washing agent to save some water. I will just one that is not expensive and read the manual once it arrives. I would like to have archival quality.. even though I see that the negative holders I bought are not of best quality... Any tips for better negative holders?
I would like to thank you for your reply
Regards
Alex |
Alex!
That digital thermometer looks good and should serve you well as it will be more accurate and responsive. As I mentioned before, all solutions should be at similar temperatures and within 1 degree C. I feel use of cold water results in less than perfect negatives.
You might be getting slight reticulatipn resembling coarse grain or your negatives are overdeveloped leading to blocked highlights and lack of nice even range of tones depending upon your subjects. Here's an article about this condition:
http://petapixel.com/2015/02/14/nasa-time-lapse-shows-5-years-suns-life-3-glorious-minutes/
What brand of flat bed scanner are you using?
Practice makes perfect!
Ed
_________________
Ed Lee
President, Park West Camera Club, NY, NY
www.parkwestcameraclub.org/index-2.html
Organizer, www.meetup.com/NYPhotoSafari/
Digital photography since late 90's. My business offered digital services as well as usual analogue silver halide processes of the times.
Currently shoot with Nikon D800, D700 and Canon 5DMk2, IDsMk3, 1DsMk2 and a slew of lenses. Just picked up a used Sony Nex 5 to play around! |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 724
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| Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 8:57 am Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
Hi,
thanks for the great answer.
I have developed one month ago a bunch of films that I am still scanning... I had run into lot of troubles (With the quality I got). I plan to post here in the future some of the scanned images to ask you what went wrong.
I am using a plustek 8200 i and I am really happy with the results. I was using in the past an epson 3490 photo but I sold the unit since I did not like the quality.
The major problems I currently have is
1. loading and unloading film in the spirals. In my spiral the 36 long film does not fit always in. Unloading it also created scratches on the surface
2. Reducing marks and finger tips on my negatives (they just look so small for my fingers )
3. Temperature control while developing, rinsing.... I hope with the thermometer above I would have improved
4. Liquids price. I am using the ilford dd-x.. as these were considered the most fine quality ones and I was able to develop all different type of films pushed or pulled.. Although for one shot development (that could work the best for my lifestyle) the price is killing me.
I hope I will have some time next week to show some "bad" development results I have.
Regards
Alex
_________________
“The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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elee950021
Joined: 01 Feb 2015
Posts: 5
Location: United States
|
| Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2015 6:48 pm Post subject: |
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elee950021 wrote:
| alaios wrote: |
Hi,
thanks for the great answer.
I have developed one month ago a bunch of films that I am still scanning... I had run into lot of troubles (With the quality I got). I plan to post here in the future some of the scanned images to ask you what went wrong.
I am using a plustek 8200 i and I am really happy with the results. I was using in the past an epson 3490 photo but I sold the unit since I did not like the quality.
The major problems I currently have is
1. loading and unloading film in the spirals. In my spiral the 36 long film does not fit always in. Unloading it also created scratches on the surface
2. Reducing marks and finger tips on my negatives (they just look so small for my fingers )
3. Temperature control while developing, rinsing.... I hope with the thermometer above I would have improved
4. Liquids price. I am using the ilford dd-x.. as these were considered the most fine quality ones and I was able to develop all different type of films pushed or pulled.. Although for one shot development (that could work the best for my lifestyle) the price is killing me.
I hope I will have some time next week to show some "bad" development results I have.
Regards
Alex |
Alex!
I see you've upgraded your scanner where the film frames are now scanned individually and the focus is right on. If you think about a flatbed scanner, the focus is on the glass plate where one would place a print. With a film holder, the film is raised however slightly above the glass so your negatives are less than optimum in terms of focus hence less sharp.
The reels are made to hold a full roll of 36 exposures minus the tongue and should end when the stainless steel spiral ends. Sometimes, in loading, the film will bind and skip a spiral and you can feel when this happens. The film actually overlaps and touches the surfaces of the film following (2 turns of film in the same spiral) resulting in the film not developing and fixing where they touched, getting pinkish white blobs.
You can wear latex gloves to handle the film when wet and you're washing the film. Use cotton gloves (same as those used to handle prints) to handle dry negatives.
Sorry, I sent you the wrong hot link. The correct link was an article about film reticulation caused by fluctuating solution temperature. I'll send it when I find it again!
You can use film developer in power form which is a bit cheaper. With liquid developers you're paying for the convenience of ready to use (add water) solutions. Film developers such as Kodak's D-76 or Ilford's ID-11 come in powered form and you need to mix and store them in their entirety, being less convenient but cheaper. For doing film occasionally, the liquids are your best bet.
Best wishes,
Ed
_________________
Ed Lee
President, Park West Camera Club, NY, NY
www.parkwestcameraclub.org/index-2.html
Organizer, www.meetup.com/NYPhotoSafari/
Digital photography since late 90's. My business offered digital services as well as usual analogue silver halide processes of the times.
Currently shoot with Nikon D800, D700 and Canon 5DMk2, IDsMk3, 1DsMk2 and a slew of lenses. Just picked up a used Sony Nex 5 to play around! |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014
Posts: 724
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| Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 8:08 am Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
| elee950021 wrote: |
I see you've upgraded your scanner where the film frames are now scanned individually and the focus is right on. If you think about a flatbed scanner, the focus is on the glass plate where one would place a print. With a film holder, the film is raised however slightly above the glass so your negatives are less than optimum in terms of focus hence less sharp.
The reels are made to hold a full roll of 36 exposures minus the tongue and should end when the stainless steel spiral ends. Sometimes, in loading, the film will bind and skip a spiral and you can feel when this happens. The film actually overlaps and touches the surfaces of the film following (2 turns of film in the same spiral) resulting in the film not developing and fixing where they touched, getting pinkish white blobs.
|
That happened me almost every time. What should I do to not have this problem any further?
| elee950021 wrote: |
You can wear latex gloves to handle the film when wet and you're washing the film. Use cotton gloves (same as those used to handle prints) to handle dry negatives.
|
Well when I am washing I do not touch the film surface. I am just rinsing over and over again with cold water. I think the problem comes when loading film into spirals, there I have touched it many times. Using gloves makes me loose the fine sense I need for loading.
| elee950021 wrote: |
Sorry, I sent you the wrong hot link. The correct link was an article about film reticulation caused by fluctuating solution temperature. I'll send it when I find it again!
You can use film developer in power form which is a bit cheaper. With liquid developers you're paying for the convenience of ready to use (add water) solutions. Film developers such as Kodak's D-76 or Ilford's ID-11 come in powered form and you need to mix and store them in their entirety, being less convenient but cheaper. For doing film occasionally, the liquids are your best bet.
|
Why should I keep the powder mixture? How many times I can re use them? To be honest for my lifestly one shot developers I think are the best.. but they turn to be really expensive.
I did not have the time to have a look on washing agents previous week, but I plan to do so next week that I will be in a conference
| elee950021 wrote: |
Best wishes,
Ed |
_________________
“The fact is that relatively few photographers ever master their medium. Instead they allow the medium to master them and go on an endless squirrel cage chase from new lens to new paper to new developer to new gadget, never staying with one piece of equipment long enough to learn its full capacities, becoming lost in a maze of technical information that is of little or no use since they don’t know what to do with it”
(written at 1927 by Edward Weston) |
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