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1kgcoffee
Joined: 16 May 2014 Posts: 51
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Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 5:36 am Post subject: What would you do in this situation? |
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1kgcoffee wrote:
To get good exposure of the statue and the background church, without blowing out the sky? Standing on the opposite side of the statue is not an option.
http://imgur.com/vRiPLox
I want perfect dynamic range with full detail in the clouds, no blown out areas, but also full detail at ground level.
Obviously the scene is too large to use a fill flash.
Would you use a graduated ND filter? A CPL filter? Would you spot meter on the statue? HDR bracketing? |
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Aanything
Joined: 27 Aug 2011 Posts: 2187 Location: Piacenza, Italy
Expire: 2014-05-30
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Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 6:11 am Post subject: |
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Aanything wrote:
1kgcoffee wrote: |
Standing on the opposite side of the statue is not an option. |
What about waiting 6-12 hours? (joking)
For me, the first obvious answer would be hdr bracketing, or even only two exposures to be blended in PP, paying attention to not produce some irreal looking result (imho, the sky needs to be much brighter than the statue, so I would expose the sky so that it is almost blown out, and the statue so that it has readable shadow details, but it should still be quite dark).
Shall I do it with one single shot, I would use the histogram to expose the sky to the extreme right (sometimes you can recover detail even if it looks a bit blown), and then work in PP to bring out shadow detail.
Obviously you would need to shoot in raw, as jpeg compression tends to cut information at the extremes of the histogram, making detail recovery much harder.
I'm not an expert with filters, but I doubt they will help much in this situation. _________________ C&C and editing of my pics are always welcome
Samples from my lenses
My gear
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 10:04 am Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
Expose for the shadows and add the sky in with Photoshop ?. _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 10:50 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
HDR, 5 exposures 1 stop apart. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10965 Location: California
Expire: 2025-04-11
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Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 4:41 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
How about a graduated ND filter? _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony ILCE-7RM2, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
Lenses:
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300, Macro-Takumar 1:4/50, Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm, Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
M42 Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
Contax Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 28-70mm F3.5-4.5
Pentax K-mount SMC PENTAX-A ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (151B), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto (Kiron)
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4744 Location: Cheshire, England
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Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 11:30 pm Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
The problem with a grad is that the subject and sky are occupying the same space. If it were a landscape that would be different.
I'd take one of the sky as it is and one of the statue, point the camera to the base of the statue, hold the exposure lock and re-frame. Blend in photoshop. I'm not sure how RAW would work. _________________ Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
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Tedat
Joined: 08 Nov 2011 Posts: 800 Location: Berlin/Germany
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 8:34 am Post subject: Re: What would you do in this situation? |
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Tedat wrote:
1kgcoffee wrote: |
I want perfect dynamic range with full detail in the clouds, no blown out areas, but also full detail at ground level. |
like this?
_________________ Regards
Jan
flickr
Sony A7RM2
Contax T*: Distagon 4/18, Distagon 2/28, Distagon 1.4/35, PC-Distagon 2.8/35, Planar 1.4/50, Planar 1.4/85, Planar 2/100, Planar 2/135, S-Planar 2.8/60, Tessar 2.8/45, Mirotar 8/500, Vario Sonnar 3.4/35-70, Vario Sonnar 4.5-5.6/100-300
Carl Zeiss for Rollei QBM: F-Distagon 2.8/16 HFT, Distagon 2.8/25, Planar 1.4/50 HFT, Sonnar 2.8/85
Konica Hexanon AR: 2.8/21, 1.2/57
Other: Minolta F2.8 [T4.5] 135mm STF, Meopta Meostigmat 1.4/70, Tokina AT-X 2.5/90.. and lots of early M42 Yashinon, Rikenon and Mamiya lenses |
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hoanpham
Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 2575
Expire: 2015-01-18
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 8:38 am Post subject: |
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hoanpham wrote:
if you are using sony nex, set dynamic range to level 5 and shoot in raw. but hdr is the way.
light measurement on the subject.
sony compact (lens not changeable) has yellow intelligent mode (in additional to green intelligent mode) will automatically fires 2-3 images and compile an hdr output in camera. and it does amazingly good job.
d800 also allow dynamic range as sony a7r. these share same sensor.
Awesome PP Jan . |
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Tedat
Joined: 08 Nov 2011 Posts: 800 Location: Berlin/Germany
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 8:51 am Post subject: |
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Tedat wrote:
it's just a quickie
In photoshop duplicate the layer.. adjust one for perfect sky and the other one for shadows. Blend them together..
If you shoot two pictures with different exposure and use them instead.. it will be even better. _________________ Regards
Jan
flickr
Sony A7RM2
Contax T*: Distagon 4/18, Distagon 2/28, Distagon 1.4/35, PC-Distagon 2.8/35, Planar 1.4/50, Planar 1.4/85, Planar 2/100, Planar 2/135, S-Planar 2.8/60, Tessar 2.8/45, Mirotar 8/500, Vario Sonnar 3.4/35-70, Vario Sonnar 4.5-5.6/100-300
Carl Zeiss for Rollei QBM: F-Distagon 2.8/16 HFT, Distagon 2.8/25, Planar 1.4/50 HFT, Sonnar 2.8/85
Konica Hexanon AR: 2.8/21, 1.2/57
Other: Minolta F2.8 [T4.5] 135mm STF, Meopta Meostigmat 1.4/70, Tokina AT-X 2.5/90.. and lots of early M42 Yashinon, Rikenon and Mamiya lenses |
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alaios
Joined: 24 Jan 2014 Posts: 724
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Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 3:26 pm Post subject: |
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alaios wrote:
hoanpham wrote: |
if you are using sony nex, set dynamic range to level 5 and shoot in raw. but hdr is the way.
light measurement on the subject.
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I thought that if you set dynamic range to a specific level and then shoot raw this is just ignored.. I thought that dynamic range levels are for jpeg files only
A |
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1kgcoffee
Joined: 16 May 2014 Posts: 51
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 2:02 am Post subject: |
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1kgcoffee wrote:
Thanks for all the responses! This forum is invaluable.
Tedat, that is exactly what I wanted I'm amazed you were able to pull out so much detail from a jpeg. |
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Tedat
Joined: 08 Nov 2011 Posts: 800 Location: Berlin/Germany
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 6:47 am Post subject: |
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Tedat wrote:
it's easy to rescue details in dark areas (shadows), but nearly impossible in highlights. _________________ Regards
Jan
flickr
Sony A7RM2
Contax T*: Distagon 4/18, Distagon 2/28, Distagon 1.4/35, PC-Distagon 2.8/35, Planar 1.4/50, Planar 1.4/85, Planar 2/100, Planar 2/135, S-Planar 2.8/60, Tessar 2.8/45, Mirotar 8/500, Vario Sonnar 3.4/35-70, Vario Sonnar 4.5-5.6/100-300
Carl Zeiss for Rollei QBM: F-Distagon 2.8/16 HFT, Distagon 2.8/25, Planar 1.4/50 HFT, Sonnar 2.8/85
Konica Hexanon AR: 2.8/21, 1.2/57
Other: Minolta F2.8 [T4.5] 135mm STF, Meopta Meostigmat 1.4/70, Tokina AT-X 2.5/90.. and lots of early M42 Yashinon, Rikenon and Mamiya lenses |
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!Karen
Joined: 20 Jul 2013 Posts: 836 Location: Belgium Baby
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Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 7:20 am Post subject: |
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!Karen wrote:
What I always do in this situation is take a meter reading for the sky and take a meter reading for the foreground. I then go for a happy medium between the two. You should get a pretty nice histogram with all info available then where the sky might still be a little overexposed and the shadows a little underexposed. But because it should not be too far off it can be easily corrected in PP without degrading image quality. Never fails for me. _________________ FLICKR PHOTOSTREAM |
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