Old plate camera with digital back?

[alex ph]

I have a very nice plate 9x12 folder equipped with a Schneider Kreuznach Xenar 4.5/135. Following to the lens serial number, it comes form 1928 or 1929.



Strangely, the camera body is no name, with no manufacturer number or markings. People from APUG hinted it could be Welta. Especially looking at big clip standard fixers.



But my question is not about that.

In several forums I saw successful attempts to use such old cameras digitally, with mirrorless cameras attached to their backs, instead of film plate. I am tempted to try it with my NEX. But do not know where to start. Do those of you who did successfully have a how-to step-by-step description? I am especially interested in the following questions:

1. What base or plate did you use to hold your digital camera on the folder's back?
2. What way did you fix the digital mount on the plate?
3. What way you provided correct focusing distance, taking into account that digital sensor schould be put on the focal plane otherwise taken by a film sheet?

[RSalles]

The register distance does not interferes too much as you always can compensate with the bellows moving, but for the god's sake please do not destroy the camera doing this conversion...

[]s,

Cheers,

Renato

[alex ph]

In no way I am going to destroy the camera. Especially after viewing possbile photo results which are far from being really convincing. Playing with NEX could be an additional option to the camera's original use. Hope the authors of successful experience will give me several hints.

[David]

It will be easier to do this with a 4X5 monorail camera as some gear already exists. There are expensive scanner backs you can use or on eBay there are sliding plate backs with DSLR mounts. However, those sliding backs do not provide full-frame coverage. Also, LF lenses are not anywhere near as sharp as SF and MF lenses on an lp/mm basis. That's because there's less enlargement needed, so 110 lp/mm on an LF lens looks better than 140 lp/mm on an SF lens. So you will have results that, I think, will consistently disappoint you.

Also, old lenses do not have as good a color and contrast transmission profile as modern lenses, so the results will need more post work to avoid them looking very flat.

My suggestion would be to pick up an old monorail camera and use that. It will be easier to do and will be much more durable (due both to age and construction.) With your plate camera, I'd suggest getting some plate holders and using it like it was intended to be used -- with plates. The results, I think, will knock your socks off. Then you can digitize the plates with a macro lens and light source. Here's the process I use: http://youtu.be/ot_vVjlBLmk and it works very well.

[dan_]

[LucisPictor]

On method I have seen is to drill a hole in the back plate of the camera and glue in an adapter e.g. for Sony NEX.
This adapter can be "closed" by a rear cap and thus the camera is still in working order. But you have a pretty huge hole in its back.

Focussing is no problem, as Renato pointed out.

[philslizzy]

I did this with an old Icarette. link here: http://forum.mflenses.com/ica-icarette-b-t57273,highlight,%2Bicarette.html

The camera is a rollfilm camera with a removeable back for plates. If you look at the first photo you see how the back is removed.




basically I made a replacement back from a piece of plasticard (modelling plastic available in sheets) about 1.5mm thick. filled down the edges so it would slide into the plate holder.

When that was done I marked the centre and used a hole saw to drill a circular hole in the middle. I attached an M39 NEX adapter (having found where the top was) with plenty of glue.



my camera attaches like this.



I focus using the camera's focusing mechanism. It works well.

The entire job took half an hour or less.

It ought not to take you too long.

I used an M39 adapter because with anything flatter i.e. reversing ring, the grip would have got in the way. The adapter holds it at just the right distance.

[Arkku]

re. getting the focus right, assuming that the bellows can be opened only part way there is no problem; infinity focus will be with the bellows closer to the back than with film (how much closer depends on how far you get the sensor from the back), and extending the bellows more focuses closer.

For the back an easy option would probably be a plate with a hole drilled in the middle, you can the glue a short extension tube (M39 or M42 is very cheap) on the board. No modification of original camera necessary…


I've done a similar modification on a couple of roll film cameras that have a non-opening back and thus include a removable port for cleaning the rear element of the lens. Thus it's a simple matter of attaching said extension tube with double-sided tape:



(Again before anyone misunderstands, this is fully reversible and there is no modification or drilling of the original camera, the hole in the back is there by design.)

[alex ph]

Thank you so much to all for your contributions! Now I have an idea how to proceed. philslizzy, I will use your technique. Thanks you for precise description.

As for getting quality pictures, I only want to use my camera in a double mode. Acquire another equipment, such as monorail camera goes beyond my intention. Maybe in future.

philslizzy, I saw your samples in the other thread, they are nice and much more convincing that others I saw before.

Arkku, folks, if you have shots from your plate-digital, please post links. I'd really appreciate to see the final result.

Best,
Alex

[philslizzy]

Thanks. Let us know how you get on.

[Eugen Mezei]

Slide the matte glass-rear shade assembly out and slide an aluminium plate in to the rails, holding the adaper for your digital camera's bayonet.

As for identification, is nothing embossed in the leather of the camera's handle?

[philslizzy]

The Welta's had a loop stitched to one of the bellows folds which attaches to a small hook on the left of the lens board (as you look at it) Presumably this was to keep the bellows tight when in the infinity position.

I suspect it was a generic camera made for a retailer for example 'Boots Cash Chemist' . They usually had a transfer or sticker attached, which flaked off after about 30 years.