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Stelrad P. Doulton
Joined: 16 May 2012 Posts: 11 Location: UK
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 3:24 pm Post subject: Cheap and easily dismantled lens |
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Stelrad P. Doulton wrote:
Not sure if anyone has seen this - The Projector - 8mm Direct to 5Dmk2, but I'm attempting to give it a try.
The results are very impressive - http://vimeo.com/20900718 (view in HD to get the full effect of the quality).
I have a working projector but the replacement bulb is very expensive so I've used the LED light technique as seen in the clip.
All I need now is a lens that I can easily dismantle - any advice gratefully received (I have a Flektogon but I use it too much to sacrifice it for an experiment).
I don't have a FF camera, just a Canon 60D so I'm not actually sure if it will be possible to capture the full projected image or whether some experimentation will help, what do you think? |
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fuzzywuzzy
Joined: 18 Dec 2010 Posts: 1258 Location: Down East, Canada, eh?
Expire: 2013-11-30
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 4:51 pm Post subject: Re: Cheap and easily dismantled lens |
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fuzzywuzzy wrote:
Stelrad P. Doulton wrote: |
All I need now is a lens that I can easily dismantle - any advice gratefully received (I have a Flektogon but I use it too much to sacrifice it for an experiment).
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Helios 44? Cheap and mechanically simple. _________________ I welcome C&C, editing my pics and reposting them on the forum is fine.
NEX-F3
~~~~~~~~~
CZJ Sonnar 135/4, Biotar 58/2, Pancolar 50/2, Tessar 50/2.8, Flek 35/2.8, Flek 25/4
Super Takumar 135/2.5, 135/3.5, 100/4 bellows, 50/1.4, 28/3.5
Helios 58/2, 3M-5A 500/8, Mir 20M
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 - - - - - - - - Nikkor 200/4
Rikenon 28/2.8 - - - - - - - - Zeiss 50/1.7 Planar
PB 50/2.4, 135/2.8
Yashica 50/1.9, 28/2.8, 135/2.8
Hexanon 28/3.5, 50/1.4 |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7794 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 5:14 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
What bits of lenses do you need? I've got a boxful of 'spares' ( crap ) here, and there's a pile of stripped out parts and glass, and a few dead lenses. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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Stelrad P. Doulton
Joined: 16 May 2012 Posts: 11 Location: UK
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 8:21 pm Post subject: |
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Stelrad P. Doulton wrote:
I have a Helios 44 - somewhere.
The method used above uses the rear element and the body.
I'm actually wondering if projecting directly onto the sensor without these could work.
He mentions the rear element is to try and get a flat field image and the body is just a light shield. |
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
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Posted: Thu Jan 23, 2014 8:56 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
There's no reason to slaughter a lens! Actually the method he's using for projecting the film on the sensor is an optically quite bad idea, imo, because the "close-up-lens" he slaughtered is not corrected for any CAs, coma, field of sharpness curvature and so on and the projection lens used is optimized for a wide aperture and not for high resolution. With an slightly better setup you could very easily top his results!
At first you don't need to use the projection lens in first place at all.
Basically it's the same technique as photographing slides directly from an slide projector without projection lens, except that the "slides" are only a few mm large.
Unlike with slides you need a macro lens which does stronger magnifications than 1:1 of course.
Any "macro lens" which magnifies slightly higher than 1:1 would do the same job as his combo job but with much better IQ. (You need a about 4:1 to fully cover Canon APS-C with Super-8 film)
For best quality (without paying much money for dedicated high magnification lenses like Canon MP-E) I would highly recommend to use an reversed enlarger lens on bellows directly
Then you would have much less CAs and visibly higher overall-resolution and sharpness! If you consider that I would look for an El-Nikkor 50/2.8 for example, it works good when reversed up to 4:1 magnification and it is quite cheap. But basically every reversed enlarger lens should do it better than the method shown in the film.
If you don't have or want to buy an bellows you could also use a normal lens but reversed (with tubes if necessary, depening on focal length) - even that should deliver visibly better results!
All you need for that is an adapter for reversed mounting (and maybe a cheap set of extension tubes).
If you already have a tele or tele-macro lens (~100mm, ~135mm, or similar) you could also use your Flektogon or basically any other lens ~50mm or shorter reversed as strong close-up-achromat on it (which is optically fully corrected!)! Such an male-male filter thread adapter does cost less than 5 bucks on Ebay (Click here to see on Ebay.de for example) and you also don't need to slaughter any lens
(Here you can see an extension tube (not necessary in your case I think) + 100mm lens + male male 55mm filter thread mount adapter + reversed 40mm lens)
With that setup I was able to cover about 2:1 to 6:1 if I remember correctly - exactly what you need. And it also delivers nice quality, much better than the method in the video.
You would only need to remove the projection lens and aim with that setup directly on the film. Then you could start!
PS: If you wan't to slaughter a lens anyway, try to get an broken cheap noname 135/2.8 lens - they are cheap an in most cases easy to dismantle.Click here to see on Ebay.de _________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language)
Last edited by ForenSeil on Fri Jan 24, 2014 1:53 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Arctures
Joined: 10 Jul 2009 Posts: 295
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Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 7:51 am Post subject: |
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Arctures wrote:
Wow, ForenSeil, much appreciated for that info _________________ Sony A7, NEX-5n, Panasonic GH5(Oly12-40/2., Contax Distagon T* 28/2.8, Contax Planar T* 50/1.4, Contax T* 80-200/4,
Minolta Rokkor MC 58/1.2, Minolta MC Rokkor-X PF 50/1.7, Minolta MD 50/2.0, Konica Hexanon AR 50/1.8,
Konica Hexanon 57/1.4, Rokkor-PF 55/1.7, Konica Hexanon 40/1.8, Auto Yashinon 50/2.0, Canon FD 50/3.5
Voigtl�nder APO Lanthar 90/3.5 M42, Topcon RE.Topcor 58/1.8, Helios-44-2 58/2.0, Canon FD 24/2.8,
Canon FD 135/2.5 SC, Auto Topcor 135/3.5, Pentax SMC 55/1.8, Minolta 35/2.8, Minolta MD 35-70/3.5 |
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Tedat
Joined: 08 Nov 2011 Posts: 800 Location: Berlin/Germany
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Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 11:45 am Post subject: |
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Tedat wrote:
ForenSeil wrote: |
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could you please show a example "scan" of this setup? This looks very interesting. _________________ Regards
Jan
flickr
Sony A7RM2
Contax T*: Distagon 4/18, Distagon 2/28, Distagon 1.4/35, PC-Distagon 2.8/35, Planar 1.4/50, Planar 1.4/85, Planar 2/100, Planar 2/135, S-Planar 2.8/60, Tessar 2.8/45, Mirotar 8/500, Vario Sonnar 3.4/35-70, Vario Sonnar 4.5-5.6/100-300
Carl Zeiss for Rollei QBM: F-Distagon 2.8/16 HFT, Distagon 2.8/25, Planar 1.4/50 HFT, Sonnar 2.8/85
Konica Hexanon AR: 2.8/21, 1.2/57
Other: Minolta F2.8 [T4.5] 135mm STF, Meopta Meostigmat 1.4/70, Tokina AT-X 2.5/90.. and lots of early M42 Yashinon, Rikenon and Mamiya lenses |
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
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Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 12:00 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
Tedat wrote: |
ForenSeil wrote: |
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could you please show a example "scan" of this setup? This looks very interesting. |
With exactly that setup:
(slide is from ~1983, resolution is limited by film)
But in the meanwhile I've improved that setup with better lenses (using Apo-Rodagon-D 75/4 and Rodagon 105/5.6)
Resolution can be enormous with high-resolving slides or especially B/W negatives, much better than any mid-class scanner
Two old posts from my blog in German language:
http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/dias-digitalisieren-mit-diaprojektor-und-digitalkamera/
http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/sw-negative-mit-digitalkamera-scannen/
In the DIY section of this forum are several threads about digitalisation of slides, negatives and old photos with DSLRs and mirrorless.
http://forum.mflenses.com/scanning-negs-via-camera-t61765.html
http://forum.mflenses.com/enlarger-lenses-for-digitalizing-photos-prints-with-dslr-t63682.html
There are also modified techniques using automated setups, HDR, flash as light source,...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xh8vJCvsZtY&feature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnvhBXQrfzQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ot_vVjlBLmk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMO50AlGyrw
... _________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language) |
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Stelrad P. Doulton
Joined: 16 May 2012 Posts: 11 Location: UK
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Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 3:42 pm Post subject: |
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Stelrad P. Doulton wrote:
Many thanks for all the info (and pictures) ForenSeil.
I'm going to search through all my bits and bobs this weekend to see if I have anything I can use.
I have a Tamron SP 90mm, extension tubes and a few standard lenses, an cheap 135mm as well as the Flektogon. It's just the reversal ring I may not have. |
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Tedat
Joined: 08 Nov 2011 Posts: 800 Location: Berlin/Germany
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Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 3:48 pm Post subject: |
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Tedat wrote:
thank you... looks very good for me and if this can even be improved with a better lens.. wow! _________________ Regards
Jan
flickr
Sony A7RM2
Contax T*: Distagon 4/18, Distagon 2/28, Distagon 1.4/35, PC-Distagon 2.8/35, Planar 1.4/50, Planar 1.4/85, Planar 2/100, Planar 2/135, S-Planar 2.8/60, Tessar 2.8/45, Mirotar 8/500, Vario Sonnar 3.4/35-70, Vario Sonnar 4.5-5.6/100-300
Carl Zeiss for Rollei QBM: F-Distagon 2.8/16 HFT, Distagon 2.8/25, Planar 1.4/50 HFT, Sonnar 2.8/85
Konica Hexanon AR: 2.8/21, 1.2/57
Other: Minolta F2.8 [T4.5] 135mm STF, Meopta Meostigmat 1.4/70, Tokina AT-X 2.5/90.. and lots of early M42 Yashinon, Rikenon and Mamiya lenses |
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4745 Location: Cheshire, England
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Posted: Fri Jan 24, 2014 7:24 pm Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
I guess this method could be used to transfer cine to my Nex in movie mode with a high enough magnification.
Thanks everyone for the ideas.
#cine transfer _________________ Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official.
Last edited by philslizzy on Sat Feb 22, 2014 7:47 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Stelrad P. Doulton
Joined: 16 May 2012 Posts: 11 Location: UK
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Posted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 5:13 pm Post subject: |
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Stelrad P. Doulton wrote:
I've just done my first experiment with this using bellows and a 50mm reversed enlarger but due to the distance within the projector of the mechanism (7 to 8cm) the image isn't filling the screen.
I tried a lens doubler just to see what difference it would make but obviously the loss of light and image quality are a problem.
Would I be correct in assuming that a 100mm+ reversed enlarger would increase the working distance? (forgive my macro ignorance!) |
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Lightshow
Joined: 04 Nov 2011 Posts: 3666 Location: Calgary
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Posted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 7:48 pm Post subject: |
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Lightshow wrote:
philslizzy wrote: |
I guess this method could be used to transfer cine to my Nex in movie mode with a high enough magnification.
Thanks everyone for the ideas. |
I don't think you will be happy with the results of doing it that way, maybe at a higher frame rate.
The issue will be that frame rates will not match and you will get flicker, frame by frame would be the best but it's also the most labour intensive. _________________ A Manual Focus Junky...
One photographers junk lens is an artists favorite tool.
My lens list
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lightshow-photography/ |
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