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Canon A-1 and non FD lenses = Overexposure?
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 7:10 am    Post subject: Canon A-1 and non FD lenses = Overexposure? Reply with quote

Has anybody used the Canon A-1 with non FD lenses in stopped down mode? I have tried with several ones and it seems that the meter overexposes by a half stop or even more. Have you ever used an A-1 in stopped down mode? What is your experience with it?


PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With M42 adapter and screw lens, my A-1 reads the same as a FD lens on a quick check on a grey pavement.......but I wouldn't guarantee it's accuracy though unless I did specific tests taking meter readings from a Kodak grey card in all lighting conditions....and don't forget are all lenses at say F5.6 are exactly ALL at f5.6 and are all your A-1 shutter speeds exactly as on the dial....so you can lose 1/2 stop easily and if you need accuracy because of using slide film it would be best to match the lens\camera\film combo for a few tests shots first.


PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will do so. I will get some film that I trust to use as a reference and make tests. Me too use the A-1 with an adapter for M42 lenses. It is not that I hate the FDs, but love to try the rest of my lenses on it too.


PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2013 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

zanxion72 wrote:
I will do so. I will get some film that I trust to use as a reference and make tests. Me too use the A-1 with an adapter for M42 lenses. It is not that I hate the FDs, but love to try the rest of my lenses on it too.


Well if it's neg film I wouldn't worry about 1/2 stop, as for most general shots the common camera meter averages out the exposure...and anyway with neg film just make sure you are 1/2 stop over, I usually do this by setting the ASA dial to say 160asa for 200 asa film just in case I make a manual exposure error using the light reflecting of say dark green grass\shrubs or deep blue sky which is roughly equivalent to using a Kodak grey card....of course the same light should also be on the subject as it wouldn't work e.g a lot of shadows.