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Explore the world of vintage lenses through repair notes, real test shots, and detailed archive threads packed with images.

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My first home-developed Film
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Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 11:24 pm
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Posted: Fri Apr 05, 2013 11:24 pm
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...is down in the Basement drying, atm. Very Happy
I did some roles in 2011 in the Lab at my school, and the school I had my exchange to. But this one is the first one done at home!
There ARE pictures on it, and they look pretty sharp! Uhyeah!
I´ll try to scan and upload some this weekend.

Regards, Timo

BTW: It was Rollei Retro 400 120 at 400
in Tetenal Ultrafin, 1+10, 15mins, Stopped with water, Fixed with Tetenal Superfix
Shot with a Seagull Revue 6x6


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Posted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 3:45 pm
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Posted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 3:45 pm
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Here one of the pictures of this first roll:
A school on the small (very small) island of Monhegan, offshore Maine.



Shot on Rollei 400, added some PP in Photoshop, cropped it and resized it

I hope you like it Very Happy

Regards, Timo


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Posted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 4:05 pm
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Posted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 4:05 pm
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And one more Very Happy


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Posted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 11:05 pm
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Posted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 11:05 pm
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Off to a great start


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Posted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 11:15 pm
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Posted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 11:15 pm
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Brilliant effort. Well done.

Be a little more careful when handling your film. The emulsion is very soft almost like stiff jelly (jello) when wet. Rinse it in a thin solution of detergent (dish wash liquid) before drying, that will reduce drying marks and make it unnecessary to 'squeegee' the film prior to drying.


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Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 12:17 pm
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Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 12:17 pm
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Thanks for the idea, I was wondering how to get rid of these nasty stripes. I will definetly try it. So you say just put some detergent in there at the watering after the fixing, and don't use a sponge to get the water off? Won't that leave watermarks on the negatives?

Thanks for the help,

Timo


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Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 1:47 pm
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Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 1:47 pm
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Räbenfluch wrote:
Thanks for the idea, I was wondering how to get rid of these nasty stripes. I will definetly try it. So you say just put some detergent in there at the watering after the fixing, and don't use a sponge to get the water off? Won't that leave watermarks on the negatives?

Thanks for the help,

Timo


The idea of the detergent is to prevent watermarks on the negs. It works by breaking the surface tension of the water with a surfactant. A product (generically) called rinse-aid is just a plain surfactant.

Ok heres detailed instructions so there's no mistakes:

Wash the negs as normal - ie. film still in the spiral, in the tank, rinse under running water for about 10 minutes. I use a tube to guide the water through the core of the spiral, allowing it to flow up over the film and out of the tank. When that's done, empty the tank and leave the spiral in it.

Put a drop of detergent in a jug of water - about a pint (500ml), stir it in gently, not allowing it to foam then pour it into the tank with the film, leave it there a minute or two while rotating the spiral to make sure it reaches all the film. Not too vigorously as to make it foam. Pull out the film and hang it right up, don't rinse or sponge it down - don't touch the film at all until its bone dry.

When the negs are absolutely dry you can remove any remaining drying marks, if there are any, on the base side of the film with a very soft, clean microfibre cloth.

In my experience a drying mark is invisible when printing, you can see it because it's matt against the gloss of the film, but its just as transparent.


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Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 2:12 pm
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Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 2:12 pm
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Ahh, I got it Smile
Thanks, I will try this next time. For washing I use the Ilford-method (I think thats what its called). Pour in 500ml, invert 5 times, Pour out. Pour in 500ml, invert 10 times pour out, and one more, but with 20 inversions.

Regards Timo


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Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 7:33 pm
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Posted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 7:33 pm
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Glad I've been able to help. Good luck next time.
Phil

edit. The whole thing about washing is to remove all traces of fixer. Some negs and prints done years ago and not washed properly have totally clear spots on them as the dried on residue has continued to work.

The drying spots sometimes may be crystalised fixer which is why I wash for 10 to 15 minutes. Of course I'm using unmetered water.


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Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 6:57 am
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Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 6:57 am
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Pretty nice, You can use detergent, I prefer a wash-aid or rinse-aid as its called, Photo-Flo by kodak, ilford wetting agent, Edwal LFN... these are a few... check out freestyle photo... they have a store brand for a couple bucks.

the reason I wouldn't use dish soap is because it has other crap in it and like mentioned you have to be careful not to let it foam.

If you must use something easily bought at the grocery store use "Jet-Dry" for the dishwasher. I have not used it, but I hear from people I trust that it is the same as the kodak or ilford stuff basically.

Good luck.


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Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 1:32 pm
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Posted: Sat Apr 20, 2013 1:32 pm
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I like the old time look to them.

I haven't been out to the island in a few years.

Are you from the area?


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Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 5:36 pm
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Posted: Tue Apr 23, 2013 5:36 pm
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No, I was there on an exchange,
I´m from the other side of the big pond,
Germany to be precise Very Happy
The exchange was last year, and it was with a highschool from Maine.

Oh, and thanks for the like Very Happy

Regards Timo
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