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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
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Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 11:06 am Post subject: DIY Cyanotypie? |
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ForenSeil wrote:
I have a recipe for making photo-paper from comparable easy to get (pharmacy etc.) and non-toxic chemicals
Do you have any experience with that or similar techniques, effective ISO with uncoated (high UV transmission) lenses etc.?
Do you have any tips for improvments?
Does anyone know how to apply it on glas or plastic sheets instead of paper?
My Recipe:
Solution A
25 g Ammonium iron(III) citrate
Dissolved light in 70 mL dest. water and filled up to 100 mL
(25% m/V) *use subdued tungsten- or red light while doing this* *above 26% solution gets unstable*
Solution B
10 g Potassium hexacyanoferrate(III)
Dissolved in 70 ML dest. water and filled up to 100 mL
(10% m/V) *other recipes use 16% - I have no clue what's better*
Especially Solution A should be stored in darkness (wrapped in alu foil etc.) - in contact with light it decomposes and releases Fe(II) ions which react with hexacyanoferrate from solution B to form stable and insolouble "prussian blue" dye
After mixing solution A and B 1:1 by volume you get the photo-senstive working solution. You can add a drop of a detergent (washing-up liquid like Fairy, Tween 20 etc.) for easier and more even application on paper etc.
The working solution is only sensitive to blueish/UV-light, so can be easily handled under red or maybe even under subdued tungsten light etc. for a short time - as long as the light has only a very low UV content.
It can be easily applied with a kitchen-sponge to paper etc.
In contact with light the stuff gets blue instead of black like silver based emulsion.
There is no developer necessary - it gets directly blue in contact with light!
After exposure the paper can be easily fixed be washing with tap water.
Contrast can be enhance with thinned hydrogen peroxide (10-20 mL 3% per liter is enough)
I also read somewhere that it can be enhanced with citric acid or cat urine instead of hydrogen peroxide
PS: I know alternative recipes using iron(III)chloride, aq. ammonia, citric acid and potassium hexacyanoferrate(III) - let me know if you want them. _________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language)
Last edited by ForenSeil on Thu Apr 11, 2013 10:13 pm; edited 4 times in total |
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TrueLoveOne
Joined: 30 Sep 2012 Posts: 1839 Location: Netherlands
Expire: 2013-12-24
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Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 5:11 pm Post subject: |
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TrueLoveOne wrote:
It sounds like something i would really want to try in the future, since i am just about to start developing and printing my own b/w stuff...
But i am completely blank on chemicals, even if they are "easy to get and non-toxic" like you call them. For me those two ingredients sound completely exotic. What is it and where can we get it?
Ammonium ferric citrate comes out (google) as E381 for use in food, but still i have no clue where to get such an ingredient....
Can you please shine a light on availabilty and/or a "normal" productname?
Thanks a lot!! _________________ My Flickr photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/chantalrene/
Sony A7, Canon 5D mkII, Minolta 7D + RD3000 and some more.....
Minolta and Konica collector.... slowly selling all the other stuff! |
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GeorgeSalt
Joined: 09 Feb 2013 Posts: 336 Location: Norfolk, UK
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Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 6:29 pm Post subject: |
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GeorgeSalt wrote:
TrueLoveOne wrote: |
Ammonium ferric citrate comes out (google) as E381 for use in food, but still i have no clue where to get such an ingredient! |
Irn Bru.. ..
Perhaps too much of a local delicacy, the Wiki entry for Irn Bru may enlighten sassenachs and strangers to the northern kingdoms.. |
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
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Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 8:43 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
I found some stunning samples and now I really have to try that
For example
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pixelwelten/6257244215/
I have no good negs ready though, so I could only use it as negative which means exposure times of several minutes and post processing to get a positive
Ask in a pharmacy. At least here in Germany they would order some for you or might give you a hint were to get it.
Or check yellow pages for nearest chemical seller, teaching material supplier,... or google for inline chemical shops - I know several in here but I guess they all won't deliver outside Germany.
You might be also able to find it on Ebay - but names of these chemicals differ, especially from country to country.
I don't know the dutch names of these chemicals.
In some photo shops you can also buy cyanotypie kits for 25-50€ - very expensive for the low amount of chemicals inside. But it might be a good start for chemistry-newbies anyway. _________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language) |
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
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Posted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 9:15 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
Found that in the meanwhile.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/0-5-kg-rotes-Blutlaugensalz-Blutlaugensalz-rot-Kaliumhexacyanoferrat-3-/111047016009?pt=Labor_Zubeh%C3%B6r&hash=item19daeafe49
(Kaliumhexacyanoferrat(III) is the German name for the stuff for solution B)
Not cheap but enough for many liters emulsion so many thousand prints
It should be cheaper to buy ~200g etc. in a pharmany
I also found some ammonium iron citrate only but comparable slightly expensive... about 7€/100g
They don't sell outside Germany though.
But I know that it's possible to get it much cheaper _________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language) |
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hemmo
Joined: 30 Mar 2010 Posts: 504 Location: Helsinki, Finland
Expire: 2016-12-17
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Posted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 7:13 pm Post subject: |
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hemmo wrote:
Very intresting! Big thanks ForenSeil for starting this thread and thanks for the recipe sharing! _________________ 500px l ¿ .. ? l Jalbum |
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
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Posted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 3:32 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
If some people are interested I would order a few kg of the necessary chemicals and resell them here in the forum for a fair price in usable amounts _________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language) |
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kds315*
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16664 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 4:01 pm Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
Well, before doing that, I would recommend to get the whole process chain solved.
The chemicals are the smallest issue... _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
http://www.macrolenses.de for macro and special lens info
http://www.pbase.com/kds315/uv_photos for UV Images and lens/filter info
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kds315/albums my albums using various lenses
http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/ my UV BLOG
http://www.travelmeetsfood.com/blog Food + Travel BLOG
https://galeriafotografia.com Architecture + Drone photography
Currently most FAV lens(es):
X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f4/60mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f2/62mm
Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
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Posted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 4:15 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
kds315* wrote: |
Well, before doing that, I would recommend to get the whole process chain solved.
The chemicals are the smallest issue... |
Of course I would try it myself before I sell it
PS: I have a source for the ammonium salt and the potassium salt in very good quality ("reinst") for about 30-32€+VAT+shipment per kg. They don't sell to privates but I have a license for both buying and selling chemicals.
1kg would be a little much for me alone _________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language) |
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kds315*
Joined: 12 Mar 2008 Posts: 16664 Location: Weinheim, Germany
Expire: 2021-03-09
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Posted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 4:24 pm Post subject: |
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kds315* wrote:
Nope, I mean the UV enlarging process... see other thread (threat, more precisely). _________________ Klaus - Admin
"S'il vient a point, me souviendra" [Thomas Bohier (1460-1523)]
http://www.macrolenses.de for macro and special lens info
http://www.pbase.com/kds315/uv_photos for UV Images and lens/filter info
https://www.flickr.com/photos/kds315/albums my albums using various lenses
http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/ my UV BLOG
http://www.travelmeetsfood.com/blog Food + Travel BLOG
https://galeriafotografia.com Architecture + Drone photography
Currently most FAV lens(es):
X80QF f3.2/80mm
Hypergon f11/26mm
ELCAN UV f5.6/52mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f4/60mm
Zeiss UV-Planar f2/62mm
Lomo Уфар-12 f2.5/41mm
Lomo Зуфар-2 f4.0/350mm
Lomo ZIKAR-1A f1.2/100mm
Nikon UV Nikkor f4.5/105mm
Zeiss UV-Sonnar f4.3/105mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f1.8/45mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f4.1/94mm
CERCO UV-VIS-NIR f2.8/100mm
Steinheil Quarzobjektiv f1.8/50mm
Pentax Quartz Takumar f3.5/85mm
Carl Zeiss Jena UV-Objektiv f4/60mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha II f1.1/90mm
NYE OPTICAL Lyman-Alpha I f2.8/200mm
COASTAL OPTICS f4/60mm UV-VIS-IR Apo
COASTAL OPTICS f4.5/105mm UV-Micro-Apo
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f4.5/85mm
Pentax Ultra-Achromatic Takumar f5.6/300mm
Rodenstock UV-Rodagon f5.6/60mm + 105mm + 150mm
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7797 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Sat Apr 13, 2013 10:27 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
Linda McCartney published a book 'Sun Prints' which has a lot of very good and interesting images, done with a cyanotype process - from what I read anyway, I have no darkroom knowledge.
The book is ISBN 0-8212-2737-8
There is a bit of technical description in the book, so it might be worth a look ? _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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mmelvis
Joined: 24 May 2010 Posts: 1326 Location: Florida,USA
Expire: 2015-05-09
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Posted: Sun Apr 14, 2013 11:17 pm Post subject: |
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mmelvis wrote:
This link will help you with Cyanotype on glass or clear plastic, http://www.apug.org/forums/forum42/93625-cyanotype-glass.html .Purchasing one of the kits for $25 will get you many prints, around 50 70 70 4x5 contact prints. The nice thing about the kits it the mixture is in 2 parts and keeps for a very long period. The formula that I have worked with is the Mike Ware formula. The solution is different from the the normal solution and is considered fast for development times. Understand 7 minutes is considered fast for Cyanotpe for contact printing. This link will give you a good time frame for in camera cyanotypes, http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/processes/cyanotype/in-camera-cyanotype-negative-prints.
A real important factor in producing a good resolution cyanotype is the paper that you use. Many modern papers will have buffers in the paper that will react with the cyanotype chemicals when you go to develop the print. The best paper to use is a cotton based paper with no additional chemicals added. Link for paper to use with different alternate photography processes http://www.alternativephotography.com/wp/paper/big-paper-survey-results. My best results have come from using a paper from a company in the USA called Twin Rocker. They make a cotton based paper that works very well the process.
Enjoy the process, it is just as addictive as lenses. |
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