dslr settings using manual focus lense

[argosy2013]

Hello all , I am what I hope to be a better photographer through digital photography I use a Canon eos 350D , and a mix of fairly good quality auto focus lenses and some newly aquired manual focus the prize being a tack sharp 58mm f 1:1.2 lense that I have purchased an fl/fd to eos adapter , my query is for those of you that use mf lenses on their eos cameras what is the best settings to use, I`ve left the camera on full auto and chose my own f stop and focused manually with some really nice results but I am open to the suggestions of the more seasoned and more experienced photographers any help will be greatly appreciated thanks much .

[GeorgeSalt]

Av or M.

Nothing else is really suitable if the camera can't control the aperture. There are some useful notes here.

[Aanything]

I don't have an EOS, but my Sony has always only been set to M, both with auto and manual lenses.

[tinybynature]

I find AV mode very helpful.

I switch all my lens to "manual" aperture, using the "manual/auto" tab (slider). Not all lenses have these, but by using this it allows you to stop down on the lens manually.

I then switch my camera to AV mode.

When I am shooting, it helps to focus with the aperture wide open, as it allows in more light and it is much easier. Once I have focus, I stop down to the aperture setting I want and then half press the shutter button. In AV mode, this will allow the camera to measure and set the appropriate shutter speed. (exposure).

I have recently learned about focus shift, which is something that can happen with focusing at say F2.0 and then stopped down to F5.6 to take the shot. I have gotten better at trying to focus, at the Fstop I will be taking the image at. it is darker, but if you have focus peaking, this can be a huge help and it eliminates the focus shift problem.

There are some that suggest, over exposing your shots by +1/3 (over and above whatever the camera sets). Apparently some have done tests and find there is more detail (resolution) captured with shots taken this way as opposed to staying with 0EV. You can use ACR to recover detail in highlights, but you can't "add" in detail that was never there to begin with.

I am fairly new, so I might have this all wrong and would gladly welcome more feedback.

[GeorgeSalt]

[GeorgeSalt]

Here's the LL article.. www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/optimizing_exposure.shtml

[clockwork247]

I normally go with A mode, sony camera has auto ISO in A mode, I don't think my canon 20D does, not sure about the later models, I know the Nikon D5100 doesn't have auto ISO in A mode either (can't find it after I played with it for a whole 30 min).

[frenched]

[GeorgeSalt]

[frenched]

[Lightshow]

I shoot 95% aperture priority, with AF & manual lenses on my 1DIII(though I use mostly my NEX-7 this last year with only manuals).
The histogram is your best friend for getting the exposure you want without blowing out details in the highlights or crushing shadow details,
The more knowledge you have of the process, the better your decisions will be when you have to weigh trade offs.
This site is filled with great info:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/histograms1.htm

[GeorgeSalt]

I don't think the EOS 350D has Highlight Tone Priority, which can be useful when ETTR.

(mind you, I'm not sure the OP is till coming back to read the replies)

[sichko]

[sammo]

[TAo2]

My DSLR is a Sony A700

Settings are (normally)

A priority

Direct Manual Focus

Dynamic Range - Off

Creative Mode - Adobe RGB or "Deep" (all settings +1)

A Priority gives almost all the available modes on the A700, inc Auto ISO, Flash, AWB or White Balance settings, EV and AF area settings. Some DSLRs are more flexible than others.

Ah use a simple adapter, no chips for AF confirm or extra glass etc.