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versanteest
Joined: 13 Jan 2013 Posts: 137
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Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 11:28 pm Post subject: correct use of manual focus - Konica lenses -Testing 24 mm |
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versanteest wrote:
Hi,
I'm noob with manual focus/use and I'm starting to learn ....ops I'm trying
I have Nex C3 and today It's arrived my first prime lens: Konica AR 24. I mounted it and I'm testing it just for understand camera controls.
I'm using:
By camera: focus peaking and zoom MF help
By lens: manual focus (with FPeaking support) and focal aperture (f2.8, f4, f5.6, etc...)
I haven't started with manual use about ISO and shutter speed: Infact from menu I have shooting auto Intelligent mode.
I come to my question. Can I have decent photos with "auto intelligent shooting mode" and manual lens ?
I'm not lazy, I want to try, but first of all, I don't want to go in the wrong direction.
thanks
Pasquale
Last edited by versanteest on Sun Feb 03, 2013 12:21 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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eddieitman
Joined: 12 Apr 2011 Posts: 1246 Location: United Kingdom
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Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 12:03 am Post subject: |
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eddieitman wrote:
The quick answer yes you can get excellent results on inteligent auto _________________ My web site www.digital-darkroom.weebly.com
Life is like a camera. Focus on what's important, capture the good times, develop from the negatives and if things don't work out, just take another shot. |
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rbelyell
Joined: 13 Oct 2009 Posts: 4269 Location: somewhere in the mountains of central NY
Expire: 2014-01-31
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Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 1:18 am Post subject: |
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rbelyell wrote:
there are very few basics to photography, but essential ones are understanding the interplay between aperture setting, shutter speed and motion blur, and your aperture setting and depth of field (how much of your picture is in 'acceptable focus'). if you use 'intelligent auto' it will be much more difficult to properly understand and personally control these settings and relationships.
one of the great advantages of digital over film is that one can experiment, practice and learn these relationships without expense and woth immediate feedback. take your time, experiment and take note of settings and carefully review your results. do comaprisons with the same subject. learn. understand how different settings effect your result. dont let the camera do it for you. thats my advice anyway.
tony _________________ Epson RD1 + Elmarit 21/2.8; Summarit 50/1.5; Summarit 75/2.5; Elmar-c 90/4; Sankyo Komura 135/2.8, Hektor 135/4.5; Braun Paxina 29 6x6; Photax Boyer Paris; Holga 120 Pano
GREAT STUFF FOR SALE:
Contax T
Hasselblad XPan + 45/4, 90/4
Kodak Retina Reflex IV + full set of Schneider Krueznach lenses
Mercury 2 half frame 35mm
Kodak Pro slr/n
Fuji GM670+100/3.5+65/8!
Praktisix 6x6 medium format + ZeissBiometar 120/2.8
Bessa T 101 Anniversary Edition in Navy Blue
Mamiya Six Folder with Zuiko 75/3.5
Adaptall: Tamron SP 28-85 macro
Cameras: Canon IX
PM for more complete descriptions/pix. All in great shape!
_________________________
'buy me a drink, sing me a song,
take me as i come 'cause i can't stay long' |
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 2:52 am Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
Congrats on a great lens, that is one of the best 24mm lenses ever made, I have the same one and love it, one of my favourite lenses. _________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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versanteest
Joined: 13 Jan 2013 Posts: 137
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Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 1:52 pm Post subject: |
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versanteest wrote:
Hi Guys,
here my first shots with Konica 24...
give me suggestion because I'm noob in manual way
tell me where I make mistake, please.
I used ALL manual parametrs, no Auto ! => M mode
ISO 200
Today there was only a weak sun and many clouds
Last edited by versanteest on Fri Feb 01, 2013 11:34 pm; edited 6 times in total |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009 Posts: 5017 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 3:57 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
versanteest wrote: |
Hi Guys,
here my first shots with Konica 24...
give me suggestion because I'm noob in manual way
tell me where I make mistake, please.
I used ALL manual parametrs, no Auto ! |
You jest? Those shot are very good _________________ Canon A1, AV1, T70 & T90, EOS 300 and EOS300v, Chinon CE and CP-7M. Contax 139, Fuji STX-2, Konica Autoreflex TC, FS-1, FT-1, Minolta X-700, X-300, XD-11, SRT101b, Nikon EM, FM, F4, F90X, Olympus OM2, Pentax S3, Spotmatic, Pentax ME super, Praktica TL 5B, & BC1, , Ricoh KR10super, Yashica T5D, Bronica Etrs, Mamiya RB67 pro AND drum roll:- a Sony Nex 3
.........past gear Tele Rolleiflex and Rollei SL66.
Many lenses from good to excellent. |
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rbelyell
Joined: 13 Oct 2009 Posts: 4269 Location: somewhere in the mountains of central NY
Expire: 2014-01-31
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Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 4:32 pm Post subject: |
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rbelyell wrote:
very nice resukts froman outstanding lens. i'm sure you learned a lot about how different exposure settings effect your final result in that i see you took the same scene with obviously different settings. thats a good thing and will help you better achieve your vision of how you want the shot to look.
tony _________________ Epson RD1 + Elmarit 21/2.8; Summarit 50/1.5; Summarit 75/2.5; Elmar-c 90/4; Sankyo Komura 135/2.8, Hektor 135/4.5; Braun Paxina 29 6x6; Photax Boyer Paris; Holga 120 Pano
GREAT STUFF FOR SALE:
Contax T
Hasselblad XPan + 45/4, 90/4
Kodak Retina Reflex IV + full set of Schneider Krueznach lenses
Mercury 2 half frame 35mm
Kodak Pro slr/n
Fuji GM670+100/3.5+65/8!
Praktisix 6x6 medium format + ZeissBiometar 120/2.8
Bessa T 101 Anniversary Edition in Navy Blue
Mamiya Six Folder with Zuiko 75/3.5
Adaptall: Tamron SP 28-85 macro
Cameras: Canon IX
PM for more complete descriptions/pix. All in great shape!
_________________________
'buy me a drink, sing me a song,
take me as i come 'cause i can't stay long' |
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bruzzo
Joined: 05 Jul 2012 Posts: 153
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Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 5:13 pm Post subject: |
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bruzzo wrote:
very nice results.
Out classes my Vivitar 24mm f2 pretty easily |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 5:23 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Crispness is visble, congrats for your new excellent lens! _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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versanteest
Joined: 13 Jan 2013 Posts: 137
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Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 8:23 pm Post subject: |
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versanteest wrote:
thanks at all
I think this lens is fantastic, I must learn to know it well because I shot some photos at f16 which I haven't published. The reason was that these pics lost in sharpness. I had camera up a wall, like to tell immobilized.
I don't know if this was due to low light, or I wrong the shutter speed time.
Mah, I did try to change shutter speed time, but results wasn't confortable.
Any suggestions ?
Regards
Pasquale |
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rbelyell
Joined: 13 Oct 2009 Posts: 4269 Location: somewhere in the mountains of central NY
Expire: 2014-01-31
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Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 9:00 pm Post subject: |
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rbelyell wrote:
there is a point at which all lenses lose sharpness. typically ive found a lens is most sharp at about two to three times its widest aperture, so for a 2.8 it typically will be sharpest between 5.6 and 8. much after that it will decline progressively with each additional stop. f16 typically sucks for all slr and rf lenses, and is used with a tripod to achieve some desire artistic effect, like the blurring of running water, where you want the slowest shutter speed possible.
tony _________________ Epson RD1 + Elmarit 21/2.8; Summarit 50/1.5; Summarit 75/2.5; Elmar-c 90/4; Sankyo Komura 135/2.8, Hektor 135/4.5; Braun Paxina 29 6x6; Photax Boyer Paris; Holga 120 Pano
GREAT STUFF FOR SALE:
Contax T
Hasselblad XPan + 45/4, 90/4
Kodak Retina Reflex IV + full set of Schneider Krueznach lenses
Mercury 2 half frame 35mm
Kodak Pro slr/n
Fuji GM670+100/3.5+65/8!
Praktisix 6x6 medium format + ZeissBiometar 120/2.8
Bessa T 101 Anniversary Edition in Navy Blue
Mamiya Six Folder with Zuiko 75/3.5
Adaptall: Tamron SP 28-85 macro
Cameras: Canon IX
PM for more complete descriptions/pix. All in great shape!
_________________________
'buy me a drink, sing me a song,
take me as i come 'cause i can't stay long' |
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versanteest
Joined: 13 Jan 2013 Posts: 137
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Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 9:33 pm Post subject: |
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versanteest wrote:
rbelyell wrote: |
there is a point at which all lenses lose sharpness. typically ive found a lens is most sharp at about two to three times its widest aperture, so for a 2.8 it typically will be sharpest between 5.6 and 8. much after that it will decline progressively with each additional stop. f16 typically sucks for all slr and rf lenses, and is used with a tripod to achieve some desire artistic effect, like the blurring of running water, where you want the slowest shutter speed possible.
tony |
Thx Tony.
A question:
with sun, If your subject is a panorama, what "f" do you use tipically ?
with ISO 100/200 ...I think
Regards
Pasquale |
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rbelyell
Joined: 13 Oct 2009 Posts: 4269 Location: somewhere in the mountains of central NY
Expire: 2014-01-31
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Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 9:52 pm Post subject: |
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rbelyell wrote:
regardless of sun, i personally tend to shoot landscapes at around f8. that is done to achieve a deep area of focus or what we call 'depth of field'. you will notice if you shoot the same scene starting at 2.8, then 5.6, then 8.0 that more of your scene will appear in focus as you 'stop down' the aperture. doing this creates a smaller circle within the lens, thus letting less light in, requiring slower shutter speeds to achieve proper exposure, and yielding deeper areas of in focus material.
if we consider your pictures above, the only one you might consider f8 for is number 3, and that is only if you want the background in some degree of focus--depends on your vision, whether you want to separate the foreground from the mountains behind (f4-5.6) or whether you want the foreground to meld into the background (f8-9). for the building shots, where theres not too much depth in the shot, you might want to shoot at f4-5.6. the last picture, where you want to fully separate the subject from the background, you would want to shoot 'wide open' which in this case is 2.8.
tony _________________ Epson RD1 + Elmarit 21/2.8; Summarit 50/1.5; Summarit 75/2.5; Elmar-c 90/4; Sankyo Komura 135/2.8, Hektor 135/4.5; Braun Paxina 29 6x6; Photax Boyer Paris; Holga 120 Pano
GREAT STUFF FOR SALE:
Contax T
Hasselblad XPan + 45/4, 90/4
Kodak Retina Reflex IV + full set of Schneider Krueznach lenses
Mercury 2 half frame 35mm
Kodak Pro slr/n
Fuji GM670+100/3.5+65/8!
Praktisix 6x6 medium format + ZeissBiometar 120/2.8
Bessa T 101 Anniversary Edition in Navy Blue
Mamiya Six Folder with Zuiko 75/3.5
Adaptall: Tamron SP 28-85 macro
Cameras: Canon IX
PM for more complete descriptions/pix. All in great shape!
_________________________
'buy me a drink, sing me a song,
take me as i come 'cause i can't stay long' |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 10:10 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
rbelyell wrote: |
regardless of sun, i personally tend to shoot landscapes at around f8. that is done to achieve a deep area of focus or what we call 'depth of field'. you will notice if you shoot the same scene starting at 2.8, then 5.6, then 8.0 that more of your scene will appear in focus as you 'stop down' the aperture. doing this creates a smaller circle within the lens, thus letting less light in, requiring slower shutter speeds to achieve proper exposure, and yielding deeper areas of in focus material.
if we consider your pictures above, the only one you might consider f8 for is number 3, and that is only if you want the background in some degree of focus--depends on your vision, whether you want to separate the foreground from the mountains behind (f4-5.6) or whether you want the foreground to meld into the background (f8-9). for the building shots, where theres not too much depth in the shot, you might want to shoot at f4-5.6. the last picture, where you want to fully separate the subject from the background, you would want to shoot 'wide open' which in this case is 2.8.
tony |
+1 F8 works will all lenses, you all time if you can. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 10:25 pm Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Pasquale
I am sorry I have had to reduce your pictures to links, as they are far too large.
I realise this was your first post and you probably haven't read the rules about the size limit on pictures yet. Basically any
picture must be limited to 1024 pixels max width, otherwise the text becomes unreadable without scrolling. The only place
you can post larger pictures is in the Oversize Gallery.
If you use the Upload picture button when you write your messages the forum software will resize pictures automatically.
Thanks _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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versanteest
Joined: 13 Jan 2013 Posts: 137
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Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2013 11:35 pm Post subject: |
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versanteest wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
Pasquale
I am sorry I have had to reduce your pictures to links, as they are far too large.
I realise this was your first post and you probably haven't read the rules about the size limit on pictures yet. Basically any
picture must be limited to 1024 pixels max width, otherwise the text becomes unreadable without scrolling. The only place
you can post larger pictures is in the Oversize Gallery.
If you use the Upload picture button when you write your messages the forum software will resize pictures automatically.
Thanks |
Sorry,
I optimized !
Max respect 4 rules
Pasquale |
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7788 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 12:03 am Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
Excellent pictures, and that's because the NEX is such a good learning tool. You have a great lens, and a camera that lets you see what you are doing. Using the focus peaking and the MF Assist you can experiment and see the depth of field changing as the aperture ring is turned from wide open to fully closed. Even with experience I do this all the time with a manual lens on my NEX, and sometimes I will take many pictures of the same scene with different aperture settings just to be able to pick the best when I view them on a screen. I couldn't do that with film cameras, I can't do it as easily or effectively with the Pentax K10 either, the NEX is wonderful with MF lenses, good results are possible because we can see what is happening. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
http://www.ipernity.com/home/294337 |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 12:13 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
versanteest wrote: |
peterqd wrote: |
Pasquale
I am sorry I have had to reduce your pictures to links, as they are far too large.
I realise this was your first post and you probably haven't read the rules about the size limit on pictures yet. Basically any
picture must be limited to 1024 pixels max width, otherwise the text becomes unreadable without scrolling. The only place
you can post larger pictures is in the Oversize Gallery.
If you use the Upload picture button when you write your messages the forum software will resize pictures automatically.
Thanks |
Sorry,
I optimized !
Max respect 4 rules
Pasquale |
Thanks Pasquale, no problem. I still recommend you use the Upload picture button though. It resizes the picture to
1024, but makes it a clickable link to the full size image in a new tab. It's not easy to use first time, but I suggest you try
it and ask a question if you have any difficulties.
I like your pics by the way! _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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versanteest
Joined: 13 Jan 2013 Posts: 137
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Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 1:52 pm Post subject: |
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versanteest wrote:
indoor shots
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ylyad
Joined: 01 Jun 2010 Posts: 476 Location: Zentralschweiz
Expire: 2013-12-05
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Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 2:53 pm Post subject: |
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ylyad wrote:
Second is great _________________
Camera: Fuji X-E2, Fuji X100T
MF: Canon nFD 50/1.4, Canon nFD 100/2.8, Tokina RMC 135/2.8
Tamron SP 24-48/3.5-3.8
http://www.flickr.com/derdide/
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konicamera
Joined: 03 May 2009 Posts: 746 Location: Warsaw, Poland
Expire: 2014-06-14
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Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 9:29 pm Post subject: |
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konicamera wrote:
Ciao Pasquale!
Great photos, you obviously don't need anyone's advice on how to use manual lenses.
But if you ask me, your child doesn't look convinced buying this Hexanon was such a good idea.
Cheers |
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versanteest
Joined: 13 Jan 2013 Posts: 137
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Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2013 10:35 pm Post subject: |
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versanteest wrote:
konicamera wrote: |
Ciao Pasquale!
Great photos, you obviously don't need anyone's advice on how to use manual lenses.
But if you ask me, your child doesn't look convinced buying this Hexanon was such a good idea.
Cheers |
hehehe
You're right !
Next time, I'll ask to children about next lenses
Regards
Pasquale
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007 Posts: 7448 Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 4:02 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
Lovely family! What's her name? _________________ Peter - Moderator |
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versanteest
Joined: 13 Jan 2013 Posts: 137
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Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 11:28 am Post subject: |
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versanteest wrote:
peterqd wrote: |
Lovely family! What's her name? |
Hi !
thanks for nice words
She's the daughter of my sister
The name is Giada
Pasquale |
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versanteest
Joined: 13 Jan 2013 Posts: 137
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Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2013 12:18 pm Post subject: |
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versanteest wrote:
rbelyell wrote: |
regardless of sun, i personally tend to shoot landscapes at around f8. that is done to achieve a deep area of focus or what we call 'depth of field'. you will notice if you shoot the same scene starting at 2.8, then 5.6, then 8.0 that more of your scene will appear in focus as you 'stop down' the aperture. doing this creates a smaller circle within the lens, thus letting less light in, requiring slower shutter speeds to achieve proper exposure, and yielding deeper areas of in focus material.
if we consider your pictures above, the only one you might consider f8 for is number 3, and that is only if you want the background in some degree of focus--depends on your vision, whether you want to separate the foreground from the mountains behind (f4-5.6) or whether you want the foreground to meld into the background (f8-9). for the building shots, where theres not too much depth in the shot, you might want to shoot at f4-5.6. the last picture, where you want to fully separate the subject from the background, you would want to shoot 'wide open' which in this case is 2.8.
tony |
Hi Tony,
what do you think about these panorama ?
Weather It's not my friend
BIG SIZE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8214/8441164232_e6883e095b_k.jpg
BIG SIZE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8368/8441158502_a285a74242_k.jpg
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