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RAART
Joined: 10 Oct 2012
Posts: 497
Location: Oakville, ON, Canada
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 Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 12:35 am Post subject: 50mm: AF Nikkor 1.8; SMC Pentax-A 1.7; Super-Takumar 1.4 |
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RAART wrote:
Just tested for low-light performance 3 lenses in focal length of 50mm, wide open, hand-held, lightning just desktop lamp pointed towards subject (about 70cm away):
Wondering about yellowish appearance of Super-Takumar on my monitor or maybe it is due to age of the lens or it is super takumar rendering...
1. SMC Pentax-A F1.7
2. Nikon AF Nikkor F1.8
3. Super-Takumar F1.4
-----------------------------------------------
1. SMC Pentax-A F1.7 100% Crop
2. Nikon AF Nikkor F1.8 100% Crop
3. Super-Takumar F1.4 100% Crop
_________________
Camera: Pentax K3
FOR SALE:
Do you have Pentax-A or F or FA primes and like to trade?
Here is the list what I have to trade/sale:
Primes: - Kiron 28mm f2 (C/Y); Vivitar 28mm f2.5 Auto (FD); Minolta MD 50mm f2 (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 35mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 135mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3);
Zoom Lenses:
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Oreste
Joined: 08 Sep 2012
Posts: 451
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| Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 12:54 am Post subject: |
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Oreste wrote:
Again, such 'tests' are of little value without a full-frame test chart. It's difficult to achieve perfect focus. |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008
Posts: 6950
Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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| Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 7:18 am Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
| Oreste wrote: |
| Again, such 'tests' are of little value without a full-frame test chart. It's difficult to achieve perfect focus. |
They're just the user's samples. If you don't like them, then don't look.
_________________
Casual attendance these days |
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inombrable
Joined: 20 Mar 2012
Posts: 545
Location: Salamanca, Mexico
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| Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 8:14 am Post subject: |
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inombrable wrote:
| Oreste wrote: |
| Again, such 'tests' are of little value without a full-frame test chart. It's difficult to achieve perfect focus. |
True, but at the end of the day people don't shoot to full frame test charts, but to random subjects in random conditions for example this low light handheld one, it might not be helpful for you or for me, but it doesn't hurt either.
About the pictures, Oreste is right the focus is not spot on and also the distance from you and the subject seems different between lenses, would be better if you use a tripod or at least support your camera in the same position for this kind of "comparisons" between your lenses. Being also different aperture you can also make another set using same aperture on all of them (f/4 maybe) and see how they behave in equal conditions.
About the lenses, i haven't used the pentax A but i have the nikon and the takumar and both are excellent. Hope you enjoy them |
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SonicScot
Joined: 01 Dec 2011
Posts: 2697
Location: Scottish Highlands
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| Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 9:30 am Post subject: |
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SonicScot wrote:
I stand to be corrected but...I believe the yellowing is common on these lenses and I think it's caused by the radioactive elements.
I have a Takumar 35/2 which was yellowing so I put it on a south-facing windowsill 6 weeks ago, the glass is slowly clearing thanks to UV light.
(if I have my facts mixed up, please correct me someone)
_________________
Gary
Currently active gear....
Sony a7
E-M1 Mkll
Rubinar 1000/10 + 2x matched extender
Tamron 500/8 55BB
Sigma 100-300/4
Vivitar Series 1.... 200/3, 70-210/3.5 (V1 by Kiron), 135/2.3, 105/2.5 macro, 90/2.5 macro (Bokina), 90-180/4.5 Flat Field Macro, 28-90mm f/2.8-3.5
Carl Zeiss.... 180/2.8, 135/3.5, 85/1.4, 35/2.4 Flektagon, 21/2.8 Distagon
Nikon.... 55/3.5 micro, 50/1.2
Elicar 90/2.5 V-HQ Macro
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Helios.... 58/2 44-3
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Nodal Ninja 4, Neewer leveling tripod base
Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/gazsus/ Website http://garianphotography.co.uk/ |
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hifisapi
Joined: 25 Sep 2012
Posts: 941
Location: USA
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| Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 9:45 am Post subject: Re: 50mm: AF Nikkor 1.8; SMC Pentax-A 1.7; Super-Takumar 1.4 |
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hifisapi wrote:
| RAART wrote: |
Just tested for low-light performance 3 lenses in focal length of 50mm, wide open, hand-held, lightning just desktop lamp pointed towards subject (about 70cm away):
Wondering about yellowish appearance of Super-Takumar on my monitor or maybe it is due to age of the lens or it is super takumar rendering...
|
The super takumar is known to yellow over long periods of time. It can be cleared with exposure to UV light.
_________________
===========
ACQUIRED OVER 30 YEARS:
Cameras: DSLR=Pentax istDS FILM=Pentax SP, SP-F, ESII, SP1000, KX, K2
Lenses : Pentax M42 = Super Multi Coated Takumars 50/1.4 55/1.8 100/4-BELLOWS 500/4.5 1000/8 135-600/6.7 Pentax PK= SMC Pentax-Ks K17/4-FF Fisheye K18/3.5 K20/4 K24/3.5 K28/3.5 K28/2 K35/3.5 K35/2 K50/1.2 K50/1.4K 50/4-MACROK 55/1.8 K85/1.8 K100/4-MACRO K100/4-BELLOWS K105/2.8 K120/2.8 K135/3.5 K135/2.5 K150/4 K200/4 K400/5.6 K45-125/4K 85-210/4.5 Pentax PKM = SMC Pentax-M M40/2.8-Pancake M50/1.4 M75-150/4 M80-200/4.5 Pentax PKA= SMC Pentax-A A15/3.5 A50/2.8-MACRO A28/2 A35/2 A50/1.4 A135/2.8 A200/4 A*300/4 A35-105/3.5 A24-50/4 A70-210/4 TAMRON AD2= SP80-200/2.8 SP180/2.5 TOKINA AT-X PK= ATX28-85/3.5-4.5 ATX35-70/2.8 ATX60-120/2.8 ATX80-200/2.8 ATX100-300/4 ATX90/2.5 MACRO KIRON-LESTER DINE PK = 105/2.8-MACRO VIVITAR PK = 135/2.8-MACRO 28-85/4 NOFLEXAR AUTOBELLOWS PK = 60/4 105/4 |
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RAART
Joined: 10 Oct 2012
Posts: 497
Location: Oakville, ON, Canada
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| Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 2:54 pm Post subject: |
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RAART wrote:
I will repeat with camera mounted on tripod as well. I actually did the test to check Super-Takumar while I did some pictures and all of them had that slightly yellow tint in it, even with flash. Then I decided to check with other lenses too.
It looks like that super-tak will go to SW facing window and stay there for longer time.
In terms of Nikon I was always amazed how this lens performs. I have it since 1997, I think and it did perform excellent on F4 then F5 and F90x and now on E-PL1 too. While I am the first owner for sure I know that it wasn't abused and have UV filter on it since purchase. This one I will keep for sure, but if I find Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm F1.4 then super-tak has to go unless performance will increase magically after having some sunshine bath (too bad that winter is coming).
I was surprised about SMC Pentax performance and it looks like that it will beat even Nikon but need to check and re-check again just to be sure.
| inombrable wrote: |
| Oreste wrote: |
| Again, such 'tests' are of little value without a full-frame test chart. It's difficult to achieve perfect focus. |
True, but at the end of the day people don't shoot to full frame test charts, but to random subjects in random conditions for example this low light handheld one, it might not be helpful for you or for me, but it doesn't hurt either.
About the pictures, Oreste is right the focus is not spot on and also the distance from you and the subject seems different between lenses, would be better if you use a tripod or at least support your camera in the same position for this kind of "comparisons" between your lenses. Being also different aperture you can also make another set using same aperture on all of them (f/4 maybe) and see how they behave in equal conditions.
About the lenses, i haven't used the pentax A but i have the nikon and the takumar and both are excellent. Hope you enjoy them |
_________________
Camera: Pentax K3
FOR SALE:
Do you have Pentax-A or F or FA primes and like to trade?
Here is the list what I have to trade/sale:
Primes: - Kiron 28mm f2 (C/Y); Vivitar 28mm f2.5 Auto (FD); Minolta MD 50mm f2 (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 35mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 135mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3);
Zoom Lenses:
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Oreste
Joined: 08 Sep 2012
Posts: 451
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| Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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Oreste wrote:
| RAART wrote: |
I will repeat with camera mounted on tripod as well. I actually did the test to check Super-Takumar while I did some pictures and all of them had that slightly yellow tint in it, even with flash. Then I decided to check with other lenses too.
It looks like that super-tak will go to SW facing window and stay there for longer time.
In terms of Nikon I was always amazed how this lens performs. I have it since 1997, I think and it did perform excellent on F4 then F5 and F90x and now on E-PL1 too. While I am the first owner for sure I know that it wasn't abused and have UV filter on it since purchase. This one I will keep for sure, but if I find Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm F1.4 then super-tak has to go unless performance will increase magically after having some sunshine bath (too bad that winter is coming).
I was surprised about SMC Pentax performance and it looks like that it will beat even Nikon but need to check and re-check again just to be sure.
| inombrable wrote: |
| Oreste wrote: |
| Again, such 'tests' are of little value without a full-frame test chart. It's difficult to achieve perfect focus. |
True, but at the end of the day people don't shoot to full frame test charts, but to random subjects in random conditions for example this low light handheld one, it might not be helpful for you or for me, but it doesn't hurt either.
About the pictures, Oreste is right the focus is not spot on and also the distance from you and the subject seems different between lenses, would be better if you use a tripod or at least support your camera in the same position for this kind of "comparisons" between your lenses. Being also different aperture you can also make another set using same aperture on all of them (f/4 maybe) and see how they behave in equal conditions.
About the lenses, i haven't used the pentax A but i have the nikon and the takumar and both are excellent. Hope you enjoy them |
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But something flat would be better (the curved surface is hard to focus on). A piece of lace perhaps? |
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RAART
Joined: 10 Oct 2012
Posts: 497
Location: Oakville, ON, Canada
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| Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 3:11 pm Post subject: |
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RAART wrote:
for sure it will be something and not photographic resolution chart while those ones ranging from $225 and up... up to $950 online.
BTW here it is: http://www.edmundoptics.com/testing-targets/test-targets/resolution-test-targets/i3a-iso-resolution-test-chart/2287
_________________
Camera: Pentax K3
FOR SALE:
Do you have Pentax-A or F or FA primes and like to trade?
Here is the list what I have to trade/sale:
Primes: - Kiron 28mm f2 (C/Y); Vivitar 28mm f2.5 Auto (FD); Minolta MD 50mm f2 (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 35mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 135mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3);
Zoom Lenses:
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GaborF
Joined: 06 Nov 2012
Posts: 35
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| Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 3:14 pm Post subject: |
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GaborF wrote:
I think if you use hand-held shots, there is a chance on some pictures your hand will "move" and others it will be still...
If you do this again, try with a tripod, same f-stops/ISO settings - I think that will be good to compare even more! |
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RAART
Joined: 10 Oct 2012
Posts: 497
Location: Oakville, ON, Canada
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| Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 3:26 pm Post subject: |
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RAART wrote:
I was looking through my old files and will print this (attached bellow) on my (color laserjet) while my HP P2015 just get out of toner. 
this should be good?
and I will use HQ paper.
If anyone has testing chart in full resolution then I will appreciate if someone can email me that file (PM me for email address)
_________________
Camera: Pentax K3
FOR SALE:
Do you have Pentax-A or F or FA primes and like to trade?
Here is the list what I have to trade/sale:
Primes: - Kiron 28mm f2 (C/Y); Vivitar 28mm f2.5 Auto (FD); Minolta MD 50mm f2 (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 35mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 135mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3);
Zoom Lenses:
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fuzzywuzzy
Joined: 18 Dec 2010
Posts: 1258
Location: Down East, Canada, eh?
Expire: 2013-11-30
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| Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 4:58 pm Post subject: |
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fuzzywuzzy wrote:
The yellowing of the Tak can be reversed in a few weeks of sunshine, or in a couple of days with a UV blacklight. I see you're a fellow Canuck, this is the cheap one I bought and it worked well - http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp;jsessionid=QhShqr4LsNz2MXhCwcjP9GD87wGvzQTJmGftbD2LCp2TpWNHFb08
And of course you can easily correct the white balance in post.
_________________
I welcome C&C, editing my pics and reposting them on the forum is fine.
NEX-F3
~~~~~~~~~
CZJ Sonnar 135/4, Biotar 58/2, Pancolar 50/2, Tessar 50/2.8, Flek 35/2.8, Flek 25/4
Super Takumar 135/2.5, 135/3.5, 100/4 bellows, 50/1.4, 28/3.5
Helios 58/2, 3M-5A 500/8, Mir 20M
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 - - - - - - - - Nikkor 200/4
Rikenon 28/2.8 - - - - - - - - Zeiss 50/1.7 Planar
PB 50/2.4, 135/2.8
Yashica 50/1.9, 28/2.8, 135/2.8
Hexanon 28/3.5, 50/1.4 |
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hifisapi
Joined: 25 Sep 2012
Posts: 941
Location: USA
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| Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 7:20 pm Post subject: |
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hifisapi wrote:
I use a small 15W 18" uv blacklight to clear my yellowed super taks but it takes about a month...
_________________
===========
ACQUIRED OVER 30 YEARS:
Cameras: DSLR=Pentax istDS FILM=Pentax SP, SP-F, ESII, SP1000, KX, K2
Lenses : Pentax M42 = Super Multi Coated Takumars 50/1.4 55/1.8 100/4-BELLOWS 500/4.5 1000/8 135-600/6.7 Pentax PK= SMC Pentax-Ks K17/4-FF Fisheye K18/3.5 K20/4 K24/3.5 K28/3.5 K28/2 K35/3.5 K35/2 K50/1.2 K50/1.4K 50/4-MACROK 55/1.8 K85/1.8 K100/4-MACRO K100/4-BELLOWS K105/2.8 K120/2.8 K135/3.5 K135/2.5 K150/4 K200/4 K400/5.6 K45-125/4K 85-210/4.5 Pentax PKM = SMC Pentax-M M40/2.8-Pancake M50/1.4 M75-150/4 M80-200/4.5 Pentax PKA= SMC Pentax-A A15/3.5 A50/2.8-MACRO A28/2 A35/2 A50/1.4 A135/2.8 A200/4 A*300/4 A35-105/3.5 A24-50/4 A70-210/4 TAMRON AD2= SP80-200/2.8 SP180/2.5 TOKINA AT-X PK= ATX28-85/3.5-4.5 ATX35-70/2.8 ATX60-120/2.8 ATX80-200/2.8 ATX100-300/4 ATX90/2.5 MACRO KIRON-LESTER DINE PK = 105/2.8-MACRO VIVITAR PK = 135/2.8-MACRO 28-85/4 NOFLEXAR AUTOBELLOWS PK = 60/4 105/4 |
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RAART
Joined: 10 Oct 2012
Posts: 497
Location: Oakville, ON, Canada
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| Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 10:53 pm Post subject: |
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RAART wrote:
Yes I am... 
Hmm, the link doesn't work...
_________________
Camera: Pentax K3
FOR SALE:
Do you have Pentax-A or F or FA primes and like to trade?
Here is the list what I have to trade/sale:
Primes: - Kiron 28mm f2 (C/Y); Vivitar 28mm f2.5 Auto (FD); Minolta MD 50mm f2 (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 35mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 135mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3);
Zoom Lenses:
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RAART
Joined: 10 Oct 2012
Posts: 497
Location: Oakville, ON, Canada
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| Posted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 11:13 pm Post subject: |
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RAART wrote:
Did you mean this one: http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524443255220&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=1408474396672815&bmUID=1352329923304
_________________
Camera: Pentax K3
FOR SALE:
Do you have Pentax-A or F or FA primes and like to trade?
Here is the list what I have to trade/sale:
Primes: - Kiron 28mm f2 (C/Y); Vivitar 28mm f2.5 Auto (FD); Minolta MD 50mm f2 (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 35mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 135mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3);
Zoom Lenses:
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tromboads
Joined: 29 May 2012
Posts: 1655
Location: Melbourne AU
Expire: 2015-10-01
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| Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 3:19 am Post subject: |
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tromboads wrote:
Yeah its kinda impossible to be sure of "sharpness" with handheld shots. you dealing with such thin focus points after all.
What is fun is the colour difference.. providing you didn't set it to auto? ..
I like the yellowing  well i like warm images. i find myself reaching for the cloud setting more often then not, Yellow taks (my 55 f1.8 is in high rotation) looks like the bottom of a larger bottle. Love it  |
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peterqd
Joined: 28 Feb 2007
Posts: 7448
Location: near High Wycombe, UK
Expire: 2014-01-04
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| Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 8:49 am Post subject: |
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peterqd wrote:
| tromboads wrote: |
| Yellow taks (my 55 f1.8 is in high rotation) |
Dunno what you mean there tromboads. None of the 1.8/55 versions have thoriated glass elements, and they don't yellow like the 1.4/50 or 2/35.
I de-yellowed my 1.4/50 S-Tak on the window cill, with our cloudy skies and short days it took from November till March. That was 5 years ago and the yellow doesn't return if light can get in the lens. I store mine in a clear plastic lens box meant for the Mir-1. It would definitely work faster in sunny Melbourne, but I'd definitely buy a lamp if I had to do it again.
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Aanything
Joined: 27 Aug 2011
Posts: 2187
Location: Piacenza, Italy
Expire: 2014-05-30
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| Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 8:54 am Post subject: |
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Aanything wrote:
| peterqd wrote: |
| tromboads wrote: |
| Yellow taks (my 55 f1.8 is in high rotation) |
Dunno what you mean there tromboads. None of the 1.8/55 versions have thoriated glass elements, and they don't yellow like the 1.4/50 or 2/35.
I de-yellowed my 1.4/50 S-Tak on the window cill, with our cloudy skies and short days it took from November till March. That was 5 years ago and the yellow doesn't return if light can get in the lens. I store mine in a clear plastic lens box meant for the Mir-1. It would definitely work faster in sunny Melbourne, but I'd definitely buy a lamp if I had to do it again. |
+1
2 summer months on the window to cure my 1.4/50.
3 weeks (only some hours a day) with a strong UV lamp.
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C&C and editing of my pics are always welcome
Samples from my lenses
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fuzzywuzzy
Joined: 18 Dec 2010
Posts: 1258
Location: Down East, Canada, eh?
Expire: 2013-11-30
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| Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 12:48 pm Post subject: |
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fuzzywuzzy wrote:
That's the one, not sure what happened to link  
_________________
I welcome C&C, editing my pics and reposting them on the forum is fine.
NEX-F3
~~~~~~~~~
CZJ Sonnar 135/4, Biotar 58/2, Pancolar 50/2, Tessar 50/2.8, Flek 35/2.8, Flek 25/4
Super Takumar 135/2.5, 135/3.5, 100/4 bellows, 50/1.4, 28/3.5
Helios 58/2, 3M-5A 500/8, Mir 20M
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 - - - - - - - - Nikkor 200/4
Rikenon 28/2.8 - - - - - - - - Zeiss 50/1.7 Planar
PB 50/2.4, 135/2.8
Yashica 50/1.9, 28/2.8, 135/2.8
Hexanon 28/3.5, 50/1.4 |
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RAART
Joined: 10 Oct 2012
Posts: 497
Location: Oakville, ON, Canada
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| Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 1:04 pm Post subject: |
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RAART wrote:
I took a look at those UV lights or bulbs and find out that they have 3 different ones UV-A; UV-B; UV-C.
Right now I am really confused. Which one is the most suitable one?
_________________
Camera: Pentax K3
FOR SALE:
Do you have Pentax-A or F or FA primes and like to trade?
Here is the list what I have to trade/sale:
Primes: - Kiron 28mm f2 (C/Y); Vivitar 28mm f2.5 Auto (FD); Minolta MD 50mm f2 (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 35mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 135mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3);
Zoom Lenses:
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Aanything
Joined: 27 Aug 2011
Posts: 2187
Location: Piacenza, Italy
Expire: 2014-05-30
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| Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 1:17 pm Post subject: |
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Aanything wrote:
My UV lamp has its emission peak at 350 nm wavelenght, and it worked fine.
_________________
C&C and editing of my pics are always welcome
Samples from my lenses
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tromboads
Joined: 29 May 2012
Posts: 1655
Location: Melbourne AU
Expire: 2015-10-01
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| Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 2:53 pm Post subject: |
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tromboads wrote:
| Quote: |
| Dunno what you mean there tromboads. None of the 1.8/55 versions have thoriated glass elements, and they don't yellow like the 1.4/50 or 2/35. |
Really?? :s it was only the 50mm 1.4's and the 35mm f2's that had thorium?
It occurs to me that I may have never seen a yellow tak then. I must have been confusing the yellowish reflecting the older taks seem to give off with this effect of thorium.
Ie. my "yellow" 55mm Tak 1.8, 50mm Tak 1.4 down front, and a k55 1.8 with a M 28mm up top to compare.. and then switched so the light isn't a variable
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Aanything
Joined: 27 Aug 2011
Posts: 2187
Location: Piacenza, Italy
Expire: 2014-05-30
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| Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 3:09 pm Post subject: |
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Aanything wrote:
The yellowing deriving from thoriated glass can be seen when looking something white through the lens.
The yellow you see being reflected from the lens is normal, as far as I know, and doesn't need cure.
_________________
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hifisapi
Joined: 25 Sep 2012
Posts: 941
Location: USA
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| Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 3:30 pm Post subject: |
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hifisapi wrote:
| Aanything wrote: |
The yellowing deriving from thoriated glass can be seen when looking something white through the lens.
The yellow you see being reflected from the lens is normal, as far as I know, and doesn't need cure. |
yes, there seems to be confusion here with the color of the coatings vs. yellowing of the glass. When the glass yellows, it looks
yellowish when you look THRU the lens at a white subject.
_________________
===========
ACQUIRED OVER 30 YEARS:
Cameras: DSLR=Pentax istDS FILM=Pentax SP, SP-F, ESII, SP1000, KX, K2
Lenses : Pentax M42 = Super Multi Coated Takumars 50/1.4 55/1.8 100/4-BELLOWS 500/4.5 1000/8 135-600/6.7 Pentax PK= SMC Pentax-Ks K17/4-FF Fisheye K18/3.5 K20/4 K24/3.5 K28/3.5 K28/2 K35/3.5 K35/2 K50/1.2 K50/1.4K 50/4-MACROK 55/1.8 K85/1.8 K100/4-MACRO K100/4-BELLOWS K105/2.8 K120/2.8 K135/3.5 K135/2.5 K150/4 K200/4 K400/5.6 K45-125/4K 85-210/4.5 Pentax PKM = SMC Pentax-M M40/2.8-Pancake M50/1.4 M75-150/4 M80-200/4.5 Pentax PKA= SMC Pentax-A A15/3.5 A50/2.8-MACRO A28/2 A35/2 A50/1.4 A135/2.8 A200/4 A*300/4 A35-105/3.5 A24-50/4 A70-210/4 TAMRON AD2= SP80-200/2.8 SP180/2.5 TOKINA AT-X PK= ATX28-85/3.5-4.5 ATX35-70/2.8 ATX60-120/2.8 ATX80-200/2.8 ATX100-300/4 ATX90/2.5 MACRO KIRON-LESTER DINE PK = 105/2.8-MACRO VIVITAR PK = 135/2.8-MACRO 28-85/4 NOFLEXAR AUTOBELLOWS PK = 60/4 105/4 |
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tromboads
Joined: 29 May 2012
Posts: 1655
Location: Melbourne AU
Expire: 2015-10-01
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| Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 11:26 pm Post subject: |
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tromboads wrote:
Many thanks for clearing that up  |
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