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Kram
Joined: 06 Feb 2010
Posts: 1344
Location: Portland, OR
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 Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 3:24 am Post subject: Yashica 50/1.4 ML Stop Down Problem- Advice Sought! PixAdded |
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Kram wrote:
Just bought the lens with Yashica body on ebay. Seems like the lens will not stop down on my Canon 60D or while off of the Yashica body. Seems like someone else had a similar problem, not sure where I saw it.
I have a Yashica 28/2.8 which works fine.
Wondering what to do.
Last edited by Kram on Wed Nov 14, 2012 6:43 am; edited 2 times in total |
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Himself
Joined: 01 Mar 2007
Posts: 3245
Location: Montreal
Expire: 2013-05-30
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| Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 3:57 am Post subject: |
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Himself wrote:
Does it stop down on Yashica body?
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jjphoto
Joined: 17 Mar 2009
Posts: 414
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| Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 4:03 am Post subject: Re: Yahica 50/1.4 ML Stopping Down Problem- Advice Sought! |
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jjphoto wrote:
| Kram wrote: |
Just bought the lens with Yashica body on ebay. Seems like the lens will not stop down on my Canon 60D or while off of the Yashica body. Seems like someone else had a similar problem, not sure where I saw it.
I have a Yashica 28/2.8 which works fine.
Wondering what to do.
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Send it back. |
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Kram
Joined: 06 Feb 2010
Posts: 1344
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 4:06 am Post subject: |
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Kram wrote:
| Himself wrote: |
| Does it stop down on Yashica body? |
It appears to. It runs through the scale (indicates the aperture is changing when you look in the viewfinder) but there is no battery in the camera to show that it is actually stopping down.
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Himself
Joined: 01 Mar 2007
Posts: 3245
Location: Montreal
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| Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 4:43 am Post subject: |
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Himself wrote:
Could be the adapter?
I had an adapter that wouldn't let me stop down a 50/1.4 Planar.
But I had no problem stopping down a 135/2.8 Contax. Using the same adapter.
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Kram
Joined: 06 Feb 2010
Posts: 1344
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 4:58 am Post subject: |
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Kram wrote:
| Himself wrote: |
Could be the adapter?
I had an adapter that wouldn't let me stop down a 50/1.4 Planar.
But I had no problem stopping down a 135/2.8 Contax. Using the same adapter. |
I'm not sure. Tomorrow I'll post pix of the rear of this lens and the 28/2.8. There is one little post which looks different.
I might get a battery for the Yashica FX-1 camera body just to make sure that the lens does stop down. If it won't, unless it is very sharp wide open, I will return it. |
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Kram
Joined: 06 Feb 2010
Posts: 1344
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 6:40 am Post subject: |
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Kram wrote:
OK, so I tried the lens on the Yashica body (which surprisingly has a working battery in it) and the lens does stop down.
I can't seem to get it to stop down off of the body or on my Canon 60D.
I noticed these differences in the lenses (see red arrow). The 28mm works fine with adapter on my 60D. I have no idea if this is the problem.
Here is the adapter.
Ideas? |
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jjphoto
Joined: 17 Mar 2009
Posts: 414
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| Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 7:33 am Post subject: |
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jjphoto wrote:
My ML 50/1.4 (I'm looking at it now), opens and closes aperture without any adapter fitted to it. |
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fermy
Joined: 17 Feb 2012
Posts: 1974
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| Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 7:40 am Post subject: |
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fermy wrote:
Aperture on C/Y lenses should react to the aperture ring regardless whether it is fitted to any body/adapter or not.
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007
Posts: 5043
Location: Southern Finland countryside
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| Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 8:58 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
If the aperture lever (on the left side of your lenses in the picture) does hit the mirror box, then the lens doesn't stop down.
The arrowed thing on the right is just the minimum aperture indicator for Contax bodies, doesn't need on the 1.4 lens because the default is 1.4.
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MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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Kram
Joined: 06 Feb 2010
Posts: 1344
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 5:56 pm Post subject: |
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Kram wrote:
| jjphoto wrote: |
| My ML 50/1.4 (I'm looking at it now), opens and closes aperture without any adapter fitted to it. |
My 28mm totally works when the aperture ring is rotated, the 50mm not at all.
I suppose I should return it. Shame though because it's minty.
Thanks everyone for your help. |
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Himself
Joined: 01 Mar 2007
Posts: 3245
Location: Montreal
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| Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 6:21 pm Post subject: |
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Himself wrote:
| Kram wrote: |
My 28mm totally works when the aperture ring is rotated, the 50mm not at all.
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Maybe there is a pin on top that has to be pressed?
I'm thinking at that one red marked in your picture.
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Kram
Joined: 06 Feb 2010
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Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 6:42 pm Post subject: |
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Kram wrote:
| Himself wrote: |
| Kram wrote: |
My 28mm totally works when the aperture ring is rotated, the 50mm not at all.
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Maybe there is a pin on top that has to be pressed?
I'm thinking at that one red marked in your picture. |
Unfortunately not, that pin is actually a solid post.
I did confirm now that the lens will not stop down on the camera by opening the back, putting the shutter on B and rotating the aperture ring.
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RAART
Joined: 10 Oct 2012
Posts: 497
Location: Oakville, ON, Canada
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| Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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RAART wrote:
The lever (look at attached picture) if it is moved will keep open aperture at all times doesn't matter you closing or not. Ring will move but it will not close. You might need different adapter.
You can check with adapter mounted and look inside and you will see if lever is moved or not.
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FOR SALE:
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Here is the list what I have to trade/sale:
Primes: - Kiron 28mm f2 (C/Y); Vivitar 28mm f2.5 Auto (FD); Minolta MD 50mm f2 (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 35mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 135mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3);
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RAART
Joined: 10 Oct 2012
Posts: 497
Location: Oakville, ON, Canada
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| Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 7:21 pm Post subject: |
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RAART wrote:
If it is not moved with adapter mounted and you can close and open aperture then whenever is mounted on your camera that lever is moved or hitting the mirror (someone mention this above already).
Try with another adapter, maybe thicker one...
also try to move the lever with adapter mounted but first close the aperture and you will see...
Your mirror can be permanently damaged if you are trying to make pictures and it will be expensive repair.
Just my 2c.
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Camera: Pentax K3
FOR SALE:
Do you have Pentax-A or F or FA primes and like to trade?
Here is the list what I have to trade/sale:
Primes: - Kiron 28mm f2 (C/Y); Vivitar 28mm f2.5 Auto (FD); Minolta MD 50mm f2 (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 35mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 135mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3);
Zoom Lenses:
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Kram
Joined: 06 Feb 2010
Posts: 1344
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 9:56 pm Post subject: |
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Kram wrote:
It seems no matter what I do the aperture will not stop dow, off the camera, on the Ysshica FX1 body, nor any other way. |
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Excalibur
Joined: 19 Jul 2009
Posts: 5017
Location: UK
Expire: 2014-04-21
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| Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 10:08 pm Post subject: |
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Excalibur wrote:
| Kram wrote: |
| It seems no matter what I do the aperture will not stop dow, off the camera, on the Ysshica FX1 body, nor any other way. |
It would seem the blades are sticking...I have a few that I have to give a bang (using my hand) to get it working.
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RAART
Joined: 10 Oct 2012
Posts: 497
Location: Oakville, ON, Canada
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| Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 10:19 pm Post subject: |
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RAART wrote:
| Kram wrote: |
OK, so I tried the lens on the Yashica body (which surprisingly has a working battery in it) and the lens does stop down.
I can't seem to get it to stop down off of the body or on my Canon 60D. |
| Kram wrote: |
| It seems no matter what I do the aperture will not stop dow, off the camera, on the Ysshica FX1 body, nor any other way. |
What now? Does it stop on Yashica body or not? You have two opposite statements there...
_________________
Camera: Pentax K3
FOR SALE:
Do you have Pentax-A or F or FA primes and like to trade?
Here is the list what I have to trade/sale:
Primes: - Kiron 28mm f2 (C/Y); Vivitar 28mm f2.5 Auto (FD); Minolta MD 50mm f2 (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 35mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3); Miranda Auto 135mm f2.8 EC (incl. adapter to m4/3);
Zoom Lenses:
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Kram
Joined: 06 Feb 2010
Posts: 1344
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 2:12 am Post subject: |
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Kram wrote:
It does not stop down on the Yashica body & I plan to return it. |
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Lightshow
Joined: 04 Nov 2011
Posts: 3666
Location: Calgary
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| Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 3:30 am Post subject: |
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Lightshow wrote:
My guess, stuck blades or incorrect reassembly.
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007
Posts: 5043
Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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| Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 11:27 am Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
It looks like it opens from the mount-side. If the screws open easily you could remove just the black aperture section and see where the problem is. (I removed aperture closing lever from ML 50/2 because it stuck to Kodak mirror box and this was totally reversible.)
But then you take the risk. I would to it if it was some bargain but not else.
_________________
MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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Kram
Joined: 06 Feb 2010
Posts: 1344
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2012 8:50 pm Post subject: |
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Kram wrote:
| kansalliskala wrote: |
It looks like it opens from the mount-side. If the screws open easily you could remove just the black aperture section and see where the problem is. (I removed aperture closing lever from ML 50/2 because it stuck to Kodak mirror box and this was totally reversible.)
But then you take the risk. I would to it if it was some bargain but not else. |
If I had any skill mechanically, I would. But since I don't, I won't.
The seller has only 2 transactions, so a bit worrying but he says he will give a refund.
Fingers crossed.
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