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Helios 44-2 aperture
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 9:56 pm    Post subject: Helios 44-2 aperture Reply with quote

I have bought a new Helios 44-2 lens and am a bit confused. When the aperture ring is set to f2 the aperture is closed down and when set to f16 it is wide open! Is it me or am I missing something? Confused


PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you talk about a pre-set lens, there is two rings , one set minimum aperture value another one move blades between maximum and minimum.


PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 10:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Helios 44-2 aperture Reply with quote

DigiChromeEd wrote:
I have bought a new Helios 44-2 lens and am a bit confused. When the aperture ring is set to f2 the aperture is closed down and when set to f16 it is wide open! Is it me or am I missing something? Confused


As Attila wrote before - could be the classic "mistake" with preset lenses.
Wink


PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Who's mistake? DigiChromeEd is right, the stop down ring has a red dot that does not align with the aperture numbers correctly, it's backwards, thus making it nearly impossible to know what aperture you're using. The ring with the numbers is fixed.


PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This was explained several times, but never mind Smile

Pre-set system of Helios-44(1/2/3) series (and some other CCCP lenses) works in this way:

1. lets say you want to take a portrait at f/5.6
2. set the aperture number (f/5.6) by moving both rings to f/5.6
3. focus (the lens is wide-opened during focusing to allow easier focusing)
4. turn the ring (it will close the aperture to the pre-selected value - f/5.6)
5. press shutter button Smile


advantages:

1. you can focus using wide-opened lens = a lot of light in viewfinder
2. you can stop down the lens to the pre-selected value just using your hand, your eye can stay focused on the viewfinder

I hope it's understandable. If not, feel free to ask.


PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

no-X wrote:
This was explained several times, but never mind Smile

Pre-set system of Helios-44(1/2/3) series (and some other CCCP lenses) works in this way:

1. lets say you want to take a portrait at f/5.6
2. set the aperture number (f/5.6) by moving both rings to f/5.6
3. focus (the lens is wide-opened during focusing to allow easier focusing)
4. turn the ring (it will close the aperture to the pre-selected value - f/5.6)
5. press shutter button Smile


advantages:

1. you can focus using wide-opened lens = a lot of light in viewfinder
2. you can stop down the lens to the pre-selected value just using your hand, your eye can stay focused on the viewfinder

I hope it's understandable. If not, feel free to ask.


Ah ha! All is clear now. I didn't realise the outer ring with the aperture values moved as well. please excuse my ignorance as this is my first preset lens. Thank you.


PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

woodrim wrote:
Who's mistake? DigiChromeEd is right, the stop down ring has a red dot that does not align with the aperture numbers correctly, it's backwards, thus making it nearly impossible to know what aperture you're using. The ring with the numbers is fixed.


I'ts good to know I'm not the only one on this forum who didn't understand how these preset lenses work! Embarassed The ring on my lens with the aperture values is quite stiff and therefore I thought it didn't move.


PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Preset lenses confuse many. Fortunately I read about them here before owning one or I would also be asking the question.

I much prefer preset lenses on digital as they're easier to operate, although the A/M switch may work the same way it's often in an awkward place. Also on film I can select the exact exposure as the aperture is step-less.


PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DigiChromeEd: I think almost every user was confused by it. There are many (at least 6) pre-set systems and each one is a bit different. I was confused by Volna-9 - it has only one ring, which is used both for pre-seting aperture value and opening/closing the diaphragm.

Here are some examples:

1. old CCCP pre-set system (Helios-44-2/44-3, Jupiter-9, Jupiter-11, TAIR-11A...)

Two rings, first has engraved aperture values, the second one has only the dot (later lenses are dot-less). System works as I described in previous post.

2. new CCCP pre-set system (Jupiter-37, Volna-9)

Lens has only one ring. Push and turn to set the aperture value / turn to open/close the iris.

3. another CCCP pre-set system (old Tair-3)

Similar to #1, but the dot on the second ring corresponds to the selected aperture value.

4. Zeiss Jena (Biotars, Triotars, old Flektogons and old Tessars...)

dual-ring. Push and turn the lower part of the ring to set the aperture value. If not pushed, both rings behave as one and can be used to open/close the iris.

5. Meyer/Pentacon (Primoplans, Trioplans, Orestors...)

dual-ring. Pull and turn the upper part of the ring to set the aperture value. If not pulled, both rings behave as one and can be used to open/close the iris.

6. japanese system (some vivitar or spiratone lenses)

two rings, similar system to #3, but both rings have engraved aperture values, so it's necessary to try, which one is for setting the value and which closes the aperture


PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Preset is definitely superior especially if you are an aperture priority shooter.
Preset lenses are also wonderful when shooting SLR video. No intrusive clicks, just perfect smoothness. Get to know your lens and shoot intuitively.


PostPosted: Sat Jan 23, 2010 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

my paragon 500mm is a preset, didn,t know what the O- C was until I tried to describe it and realised what it was. was n,t sure how to use it but followed the instructions above and got it no problem.


PostPosted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 4:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, got it now. I just took my MIR-1B and the aperture ring is way too stiff, just like with the Helios. I had to lock the focus in each direction to have something to hold while turning the ring. I worry about forcing it while mounted on the camera.

This is actually a nice arrangement for manual operation. I was shooting in aperture priority mode and just turning the diaphragm to an approximate point. Really wasn't a problem other than never really knowing what f-stop I was shooting. In fact, if the aperture ring proves too stiff to move with reasonable effort, I may just stick with current method.


PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I put my hands on a few copies of Helios 44-2 today and the aperture didn't work in stops, but sort of constant. Is it normal? I thought only TV lenses worked that way.


PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 44-2 has two rings. The front ring has click stops and sets the working aperture at f/2, f/2.8, f/4 .... The ring immediately behind it has no clicks and allows smooth adjustment of the aperture between 'wide-open' (f/2) and the working aperture which has been 'pre-set' on the front ring.


PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, now I understand. Thanks.


PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sichko wrote:
The 44-2 has two rings. The front ring has click stops and sets the working aperture at f/2, f/2.8, f/4 .... The ring immediately behind it has no clicks and allows smooth adjustment of the aperture between 'wide-open' (f/2) and the working aperture which has been 'pre-set' on the front ring.

+1
But what's odd to me is the 2 rings are opposite from what would seem the intuitive way to have them, like on my Nikkor 35 shift.

Helios:
When the Preset ring is @ f16 & the Aperture ring is @ f16 the Aperture is wide open, and you move the Aperture ring to the f2 position to stop it down.

Nikkor:
When the Preset ring is @ f32 & the Aperture ring is @ f2.8 the Aperture is wide open, and you move the Aperture ring to the f32 position to stop it down.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know this is an old topic, so hopefully I will get a reply. I have read the below post and set the aperture to a
certain value, but the problem is when my aperture is supposed to be at 2 it is actually at 16. So when I preset the
aperture I can not focus wide open, but rather just the opposite! It seems my lens is defective in this way. Any one else have this problem
and is it fixable?


no-X wrote:
This was explained several times, but never mind Smile

Pre-set system of Helios-44(1/2/3) series (and some other CCCP lenses) works in this way:

1. lets say you want to take a portrait at f/5.6
2. set the aperture number (f/5.6) by moving both rings to f/5.6
3. focus (the lens is wide-opened during focusing to allow easier focusing)
4. turn the ring (it will close the aperture to the pre-selected value - f/5.6)
5. press shutter button Smile


advantages:

1. you can focus using wide-opened lens = a lot of light in viewfinder
2. you can stop down the lens to the pre-selected value just using your hand, your eye can stay focused on the viewfinder

I hope it's understandable. If not, feel free to ask.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So your preset aperture (outer ring) is at f/16 - the working aperture - the aperture you want to use to take pictures. Set the inner ring to "16". The aperture is now wide open - lots of light and you can focus. When you've focused turn the inner ring to "2". The aperture closes to f/16 and you can "shoot".

It may be counterintuitive but that's the way this lens works.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sichko wrote:
So your preset aperture (outer ring) is at f/16 - the working aperture - the aperture you want to use to take pictures. Set the inner ring to "16". The aperture is now wide open - lots of light and you can focus. When you've focused turn the inner ring to "2". The aperture closes to f/16 and you can "shoot".

It may be counterintuitive but that's the way this lens works.

Yep; it isn't broken, it's just how it is and part of its charm.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

martinsmith99 wrote:
sichko wrote:
So your preset aperture (outer ring) is at f/16 - the working aperture - the aperture you want to use to take pictures. Set the inner ring to "16". The aperture is now wide open - lots of light and you can focus. When you've focused turn the inner ring to "2". The aperture closes to f/16 and you can "shoot".

It may be counterintuitive but that's the way this lens works.

Yep; it isn't broken, it's just how it is and part of its charm.


Thanks, sichko and martinsmith99! Now I understand. Yes it is counterintuitive, but I'm glad I know how it works as this is the lens I am using most often.

udd


PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never knew that I was in a very fortunate position.
My very first extra lens was a preset Rokkor TC for bellows (135mm 4.0), when preset lenses were still very common.
Never had a problem to interprete the aperture rings since my first came in my hands in 1964 or 1965 Smile.
Easier to use then most M42 lenses with A/M switch.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Minolfan wrote:
Never knew that I was in a very fortunate position.
My very first extra lens was a preset Rokkor TC for bellows (135mm 4.0), when preset lenses were still very common.
Never had a problem to interprete the aperture rings since my first came in my hands in 1964 or 1965 Smile.
Easier to use then most M42 lenses with A/M switch.


I agree with you. It is very easy to use with a digital camera also.


PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have at least 2 types preset, also opposite way.
Best thing to do is to look at the lens to determine/verify what aperture i am using.