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Victor Nguyen
Joined: 02 Aug 2012
Posts: 241
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 Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 7:05 am Post subject: Lighroom Macro |
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Victor Nguyen wrote:
I saw some of you have stunning macro pictures that are extremely sharp. I suck at lightroom and my images are appearing very crudy, some help please? I'm a beginner in lightroom so some tips would be nice.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/82939120@N07/
I posted before and after.
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Nikkor 24mm f2.8 ai, Rokinon/Samyang 35mm f 1.4, Nikkor 55 f2.8 micro ais, Rokinon/Samyang 85mm f 1.4, Pentacon 135 "bokeh monster" f 2.8, Contax Zeiss 180 f 2.8 |
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fuzzywuzzy
Joined: 18 Dec 2010
Posts: 1258
Location: Down East, Canada, eh?
Expire: 2013-11-30
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| Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 11:12 am Post subject: |
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fuzzywuzzy wrote:
I'm not super-skilled myself but hopefully this is helpful.
Post processing can improve a photo but we can only enhance sharpness that's already there.
The DOF is very thin in macro shots, it's a constant challenge. You've got to choose angles and compositions with thin DOF in mind. You've got the eyes of the closest shrimp in focus, but the angle of the shot guarantees that the rest of his body won't be in focus and the one behind him will not be in focus.
For little creature shots you might pick an angle from the side and get most of the subject in focus, or try to shoot head-on and get a "portrait" of the face.
You could stop down to improve DOF, but of course that slows shutter speed. To compensate for slow shutter speed you can use flash, or pick stationary subjects and use a tripod.
What focal length and aperture did you use for your shot?
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I welcome C&C, editing my pics and reposting them on the forum is fine.
NEX-F3
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CZJ Sonnar 135/4, Biotar 58/2, Pancolar 50/2, Tessar 50/2.8, Flek 35/2.8, Flek 25/4
Super Takumar 135/2.5, 135/3.5, 100/4 bellows, 50/1.4, 28/3.5
Helios 58/2, 3M-5A 500/8, Mir 20M
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 - - - - - - - - Nikkor 200/4
Rikenon 28/2.8 - - - - - - - - Zeiss 50/1.7 Planar
PB 50/2.4, 135/2.8
Yashica 50/1.9, 28/2.8, 135/2.8
Hexanon 28/3.5, 50/1.4 |
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twinquartz
Joined: 11 Jun 2012
Posts: 316
Location: Sweden
Expire: 2013-10-29
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| Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 3:51 pm Post subject: |
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twinquartz wrote:
There is an interesting technique called
focus stacking which I believe that
you will find useful. As usual, Google is
your friend... |
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Victor Nguyen
Joined: 02 Aug 2012
Posts: 241
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| Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 5:21 pm Post subject: |
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Victor Nguyen wrote:
nikkor 55 f 2.8
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Nikkor 24mm f2.8 ai, Rokinon/Samyang 35mm f 1.4, Nikkor 55 f2.8 micro ais, Rokinon/Samyang 85mm f 1.4, Pentacon 135 "bokeh monster" f 2.8, Contax Zeiss 180 f 2.8 |
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fuzzywuzzy
Joined: 18 Dec 2010
Posts: 1258
Location: Down East, Canada, eh?
Expire: 2013-11-30
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| Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 3:47 pm Post subject: |
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fuzzywuzzy wrote:
| Victor Nguyen wrote: |
| nikkor 55 f 2.8 |
At f/2.8 your DOF is of course very skinny. Stopping down would get much more of the shrimp in focus, and make composition easier.
I notice your shot was at ISO 800, I think the T2i can shoot higher ISOs before losing much quality, that would allow you to stop down a couple of notches "for free".
Keep practicing, that's the great thing about digital. Macro shooting on film must have been very frustrating!
_________________
I welcome C&C, editing my pics and reposting them on the forum is fine.
NEX-F3
~~~~~~~~~
CZJ Sonnar 135/4, Biotar 58/2, Pancolar 50/2, Tessar 50/2.8, Flek 35/2.8, Flek 25/4
Super Takumar 135/2.5, 135/3.5, 100/4 bellows, 50/1.4, 28/3.5
Helios 58/2, 3M-5A 500/8, Mir 20M
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 - - - - - - - - Nikkor 200/4
Rikenon 28/2.8 - - - - - - - - Zeiss 50/1.7 Planar
PB 50/2.4, 135/2.8
Yashica 50/1.9, 28/2.8, 135/2.8
Hexanon 28/3.5, 50/1.4 |
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011
Posts: 2726
Location: Kiel, Germany.
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| Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 5:04 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
Your try (crop):
My (more aggressive) try (crop):
As said it's mostly a problem of the thin DOF
Do you have Lightroom 4 or 3? If you have LR4 I could show you my settings.
| Quote: |
| Macro shooting on film must have been very frustrating! |
+1
Imho ISO800 is a good ISO for free-hand shooting as it lets you more reserves for PP than higher ISO. Best way is to use a diffuse flash and ISO100-to ISO400.
And of course we can add "sharpness", but it makes only sense if the resolution is already there. Sharpness is a subjective mixture of resolution(details), contrast and acutance - and we can add contast and acutance by PP but no resolution.
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I'm not a collector, I'm a tester 
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language)
Last edited by ForenSeil on Sat Sep 08, 2012 12:19 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Victor Nguyen
Joined: 02 Aug 2012
Posts: 241
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| Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 5:20 am Post subject: |
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Victor Nguyen wrote:
I have lightroom 4. I guess I'll try to stop down for next time.
_________________
Nikkor 24mm f2.8 ai, Rokinon/Samyang 35mm f 1.4, Nikkor 55 f2.8 micro ais, Rokinon/Samyang 85mm f 1.4, Pentacon 135 "bokeh monster" f 2.8, Contax Zeiss 180 f 2.8 |
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