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JohnBar
Joined: 21 Jun 2012 Posts: 581 Location: Liverpool
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Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 5:08 pm Post subject: Perhaps a silly question? |
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JohnBar wrote:
Below is a picture of the lens block from a busted Nizo cine camera. The lens is Schneider 1.4/7-56mm Macro for Super 8mm format.
The gap between the front and rear elements is for the prism and shutter. I was wondering if I could hook up the front end of this lens to the rear of say a Helios 44-2 or something similar in the cheap category . If possible it would give a nice 2.0/7-56mm.
What do you think?
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iangreenhalgh1
Joined: 18 Mar 2011 Posts: 15679
Expire: 2014-01-07
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Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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iangreenhalgh1 wrote:
I think those rear elements are needed, I tried one of these lenses after removing it from a Nizo and it wouldn't form an image, just blurs of light.
I think if you add any elements it will not work either.
Being for a super 8 camera, this lens might not cover even a M4/3 sensor so I'm not sure it's worth much effort, sadly.
_________________ I don't care who designed it, who made it or what country it comes from - I just enjoy using it! |
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JohnBar
Joined: 21 Jun 2012 Posts: 581 Location: Liverpool
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Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 5:44 pm Post subject: |
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JohnBar wrote:
The fixed rear elements are most definitely needed, since the front end will not form an image, and they are responsible for the size of the image circle and for correct focus at registration distance.
My thought is that they can be replaced with larger elements for a larger image circle and also for larger registration distance and I was thinking of the rear elements of for example the Helios 44-2 as a suitable candidate. _________________ Rectilux 3FF Series single focus anamorphic attachments
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kansalliskala
Joined: 19 Jul 2007 Posts: 5037 Location: Southern Finland countryside
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 6:01 pm Post subject: |
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kansalliskala wrote:
You are trying some retrofocus construction? Interesting!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ang%C3%A9nieux_retrofocus _________________ MF: Kodak DCS SLR/c; Samsung NX10; OM-10; Canon T50
Zuiko 28/3.5, Distagon 35/2.8; Yashica ML 50/2;
Zuiko 50/1.4; S-M-C 120/2.8; Zuiko 135/3.5; 200/5;
Tamron AD1 135/2.8, Soligor 180/3.5; Tamron AD1 300/5.6
Tamron zooms: 01A, Z-210
Yashicaflex C; Київ 4 + Юпитер 8, 11; Polaroid 100; Olympus XA; Yashica T3
Museum stuff: Certo-Phot; Tele-Edixon 135; Polaris 90-190; Asahi Bellows; Ixus IIs
Projects: Agfa Isolette III (no shutter), Canon AE-1D (no sensor),
Nikon D80 (dead), The "Peace Camera"
AF: Canon, Tokina, Sigma Video: JVC GZ-MG275E |
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JohnBar
Joined: 21 Jun 2012 Posts: 581 Location: Liverpool
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Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 6:46 pm Post subject: |
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JohnBar wrote:
Hmmm, not quite.
My thought is to remove the front gauss group from a Helios 44-2 and replace it with the Schneider front end at the correct distance from the aperture blades, the Helios would be set to inf and focus locked from moving. The focussing and zoom is performed in the Schneider.
The inverted gauss group in the Helios should expand the image to 35mm format at M42 registration - maybe because I dont know for sure
Some people call this type of mod Frankesteining a lens LOL _________________ Rectilux 3FF Series single focus anamorphic attachments
http://www.transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/rectilux-3ff.html
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Lloydy
Joined: 02 Sep 2009 Posts: 7787 Location: Ironbridge. UK.
Expire: 2022-01-01
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Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 8:50 pm Post subject: |
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Lloydy wrote:
I'm confused, but fascinated. Go ahead, I want to see the results. _________________ LENSES & CAMERAS FOR SALE.....
I have loads of stuff that I have to get rid of, if you see me commenting about something I have got and you want one, ask me.
My Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/mudplugga/
My ipernity -
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enliten
Joined: 20 Sep 2011 Posts: 201 Location: Perth, WA
Expire: 2014-07-03
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Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 2:12 am Post subject: |
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enliten wrote:
in 10 steps
1. get a pair of calipers
2. measure the distance between the rear group and the front.
3. get a unused body cap for your camera
4. cut a hole in said body cap about the size of the rear group, insert rear group into new home
5. cut some pvc pipe the side of the gap you measured earlier
6. paint the inside of the pvc pipe matt black
7. glue pipe to body cap
8. use electrical tape to attach front of lens
9. test
10. adjust, retest, repeat.
you now have frankenlens. _________________ www.craftedbyben.com
Digital: Canon EOS 7D
Film SLRs: Zenit 122, Nikon F55, Nikon FM2, Pentax Spotmatic, Pentax ME Super, Pentax K1000, Minolta SR1
Rangefinders: Konica Auto S2, Zeiss Ikon Contessa LKE, Zeiss Ikon Continette, Zeiss Ikon Ikonta 521/16, Fed 5B
50's: Super Takumar 50 f1.4, Helios 44-m6,, Minolta MD 50 f1.4, Meyer Optik Oreston 50 f1.8, Olympus 50 f1.4, Industar 55 f2.8 (RF), Jupiter-3 50 f1.5 (RF), Yashinon DS 50 f1.4, Zeiss Jena 50 f2.8, Zeiss Pancolar 50 f1.8
Med Tele: Jupiter-11 135 f4 (RF), Mamiya 120 f4 Macro (645), Meyer Optik Trioplan 100 f2.8, Jupiter-9 85 f2
Tele: Jupiter-21a 200mm f4
Wide: Rikenon 35 2.8, Rikenon 28 f2.8, Minolta MD 28 f2.8, Minolta MD 24 f2.8, Pentacon 30 f3.5, Enna Werk Munchen Lithagon 35 f4.5
Autofocus: Canon 50 1.8, Sigma 50 1.4, Tokina 11-16 2.8
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Lightshow
Joined: 04 Nov 2011 Posts: 3666 Location: Calgary
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Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 5:38 am Post subject: |
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Lightshow wrote:
Yeah the only way a non optical tech would know for sure is to kludge it together and see the results, good luck. _________________ A Manual Focus Junky...
One photographers junk lens is an artists favorite tool.
My lens list
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lightshow-photography/ |
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JohnBar
Joined: 21 Jun 2012 Posts: 581 Location: Liverpool
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Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:28 pm Post subject: |
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JohnBar wrote:
@enliten
I disagree, a Frankenlens (good name), must use parts from dead lenses :LOL _________________ Rectilux 3FF Series single focus anamorphic attachments
http://www.transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/rectilux-3ff.html
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JohnBar
Joined: 21 Jun 2012 Posts: 581 Location: Liverpool
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Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:41 pm Post subject: |
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JohnBar wrote:
I did some research on the Variogon and found this lens scheme
Showing the front cell has nine elements and the rear cell has five elements - all the focus and zoom happens in the front cell.
I have disassembled the block into front and rear cells seen below
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http://www.transferconvert.co.uk/cinemania/rectilux-3ff.html
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JohnBar
Joined: 21 Jun 2012 Posts: 581 Location: Liverpool
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Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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JohnBar wrote:
Next I held the front cell against the front of a Helios set at INF and got this image
Things to note are that the front cell of the Helios is reacting with the Variogon to give soft focus and the vignetting.
I am hoping that when I find a broken Helios to take apart I can remove its front cell and put the Variogon much nearer to the Iris plane, which hopefully will solve these two issues.
It also is pleasing that the Variogon will fit inside the Helios body, no plastic tubes required _________________ Rectilux 3FF Series single focus anamorphic attachments
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