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Sirrith
Joined: 17 Sep 2010 Posts: 215 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Sat Jul 14, 2012 6:42 am Post subject: Help with cleaning pancolar 50 1.8 aperture blades? |
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Sirrith wrote:
My pancolar 50/1.8 zebra has oily aperture blades and it is affecting the operation; I can't close it down past f4 (though sometimes if I leave it on f16 or something small and take it out after a few days it'll have closed itself down to that aperture), so I've ruled out other mechanical problems.
However, I've never opened a lens before, and am a bit apprehensive about doing so. Would anyone have a guide specifically for cleaning the aperture blades on this lens? I've found a guide to cleaning the focusing helicoid, but that is it. |
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Selenium_27
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 118 Location: Strasbourg, France
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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 7:30 pm Post subject: |
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Selenium_27 wrote:
The blades are one of the most difficult part in a lens to put back.
On digital, I wasn't closing my pancolar more than 4.. _________________ M42 Lenses : Zenit 100/1.5 (nice !!) Super-Takumar 1.4/50, Cyclop 1.5/85, Super-Takumar 2.8/105, Tair 2.8/135, Quinar 2.8/135, Super-Takumar 4/200 /// Used with : Spotmatic, Some Zenits,..
K lenses K 3.5/18, K 3.5/28, M 1.4/50 /// Used with : Pentax LX
M39 : Heliar 4.5/15, Ultron 1.7/35, Wartime CZJ Sonnar 1.5/50, Color Skopar 2.5/50 /// Used With : Voigtlander Bessa R2A, Zorki 1
P6 : CZJ Flektogon 4/50, Mir 3.5/65 CZJ Biometar 2.8/120 /// Used with : Kiev 60
Bronica bayonet : Nikkor 4/40, Nikkor 2.8/75, 4/200-- S2A currently down..
Minolta Rokkor 1.7/50, Rokkor 2.8/24 /// Used with SRT 101, XE-5 (so cute !!)
Other Bodies : Many plate folders, Gnoflex (Japanese 6x6 TLR, 3.5/75), Robin MKII (24x28, very rare and compact, 2.8/40), Rollei 35B (Triotar 3.4/40), Vito CL, Vitessa 500 (24x36 rangefinder, tessar)
100/1.5 for sale on ebay (click here)
LOOKING FOR a bronica body : S/S, A, Z,D,EC, EC-TL, EC-TL-II
Anything I have is potentially for trade. Try PM Me
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inombrable
Joined: 20 Mar 2012 Posts: 545 Location: Salamanca, Mexico
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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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inombrable wrote:
In my experience is not that hard with pancolar. I have cleaned succesfully 4 or five from oil on blades.
It depends on how bad the situation is but what i do generally is that i dont dissasemble the whole lens.
I just take all the glass out of the lens and the when i have direct acces to the blades i close the iris (as far as it can be closed) and use a cotton bud with isopropanol and rub the blades and immediately dry it with the other tip of the bud. I do this on both sides again and again until the blades are free from oil/grease. Make sure to open and close the diafragm so the remaings of oil are dissolved by the isopropanol, and also be sure to dry the baldes propperly. You will see how the blades start to move freely after several rubs.
I used to dissasemble the whole lens to clean the blades but like selenium said sometimes it is quite difficult to put the whole thing back togheter. So i tried succesfully this approach on several lenses not jut pancolars.
Hope it helps and is not confusing. |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 8:57 pm Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
I need to relub the helicoid on mine...
Does anybody have a disassembly procedure?
Thanks in advance.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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inombrable
Joined: 20 Mar 2012 Posts: 545 Location: Salamanca, Mexico
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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 9:08 pm Post subject: |
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inombrable wrote:
Jesito wrote: |
I need to relub the helicoid on mine...
Does anybody have a disassembly procedure?
Thanks in advance.
Jes. |
If its "bumpy" i don´t dissasemble the lens, I work from the rear part, taking the mount out you will have a pretty decent acces to the helicoid which you cand clean also with a cotton bud and isopropanol (as much as you can clean from the old grease. and then re apply a bit to relube, it has worked for me several times. then you can work from the front part by unscrewing the nameplate and then
If its stiff you can try the same but if it doesn´t work pancolars are not very difficult to work with, just be careful if you ar working with electric pancolars cause in the rear part there are some delicate cables and springs. I always think about taking pictures when dissasembling my lenses but i always forget. Sorry. |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 9:21 pm Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
inombrable wrote: |
Jesito wrote: |
I need to relub the helicoid on mine...
Does anybody have a disassembly procedure?
Thanks in advance.
Jes. |
If its "bumpy" i don´t dissasemble the lens, I work from the rear part, taking the mount out you will have a pretty decent acces to the helicoid which you cand clean also with a cotton bud and isopropanol (as much as you can clean from the old grease. and then re apply a bit to relube, it has worked for me several times. then you can work from the front part by unscrewing the nameplate and then
If its stiff you can try the same but if it doesn´t work pancolars are not very difficult to work with, just be careful if you ar working with electric pancolars cause in the rear part there are some delicate cables and springs. I always think about taking pictures when dissasembling my lenses but i always forget. Sorry. |
THanks for the clues!
No, is not an electric.
I was afraid of disassembling it, it's a little stiff and jumpy but it works really fine from the optical point of view. Is the Exakta mount variety.
If I decide to open it, I'll post some pictures
Again thanks!.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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inombrable
Joined: 20 Mar 2012 Posts: 545 Location: Salamanca, Mexico
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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 9:38 pm Post subject: |
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inombrable wrote:
I've cleaned a couple of exakta version and they are almost the same, maybe easier.
I just tried to take apart mine to have some pictures for you but no light no picture, sorry.
But is easy you will have good acces just next to the aperture mechanism, and exactly opposite that (from the rear part of the lens). clean there, relube there and job done, at least i worked for mine.
Hope it helps |
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 10:28 pm Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
inombrable wrote: |
I've cleaned a couple of exakta version and they are almost the same, maybe easier.
I just tried to take apart mine to have some pictures for you but no light no picture, sorry.
But is easy you will have good acces just next to the aperture mechanism, and exactly opposite that (from the rear part of the lens). clean there, relube there and job done, at least i worked for mine.
Hope it helps |
It will do, for sure!
Thanks a lot.
Jes. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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Sirrith
Joined: 17 Sep 2010 Posts: 215 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 6:07 am Post subject: |
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Sirrith wrote:
Ok, it seems I was wrong about oily blades. I hadn't really looked very hard and assumed the shiny stuff was oil, when in fact it is just wear on the blades causing the metal to shine. The blades started working better after I took the back of the lens off, then some stuff dropped out and I chickened out and put it back together, but I can now use the aperture properly for some reason, though it sometimes still gets stuck. Does anyone have any idea why it would randomly get stuck and other times work properly if there is no oil on the blades?? |
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inombrable
Joined: 20 Mar 2012 Posts: 545 Location: Salamanca, Mexico
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Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 10:42 am Post subject: |
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inombrable wrote:
Two things, i cant think of.
First, it might be that the aperture mechanism, the lever kind of thing attached to a spring that opens and closes the blades, might be rusted or stuck a bit, using a tint bit of grease on it might work.
Second, i had the same problem than you with a pancolar and at the begining I thought that the blades were clean and just re lubed the lever I mentioned previously, the aperture worked intermintently and I also tried to grease a bit the blade retaining disc (very very tiny amount of grease) that didn't helped either, finally I opened it again and rubed the blades with isopropanol as i previously said in my other post, it happened that in fact they had some oil on them (not much) but after the cleaning, everything worked perfect.
BTW What kind of stuff came out of the lens that scared you ? |
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Sirrith
Joined: 17 Sep 2010 Posts: 215 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 3:16 pm Post subject: |
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Sirrith wrote:
inombrable wrote: |
Two things, i cant think of.
First, it might be that the aperture mechanism, the lever kind of thing attached to a spring that opens and closes the blades, might be rusted or stuck a bit, using a tint bit of grease on it might work.
Second, i had the same problem than you with a pancolar and at the begining I thought that the blades were clean and just re lubed the lever I mentioned previously, the aperture worked intermintently and I also tried to grease a bit the blade retaining disc (very very tiny amount of grease) that didn't helped either, finally I opened it again and rubed the blades with isopropanol as i previously said in my other post, it happened that in fact they had some oil on them (not much) but after the cleaning, everything worked perfect.
BTW What kind of stuff came out of the lens that scared you ? |
I'll give that a go when I have some spare time to fiddle around with it, thanks
Well the aperture pin fell out first, which scared me a bit then I figured out where it went, and then I noticed a ball bearing rolling around and had no idea where it came from, and at that point I decided to just put everything back together in case other small things like that decided to magically appear. I think the bearing is the one that sits in the rear part of the lens which you take off first, but I haven't bothered to unscrew the lens again to check and put it back properly, so its still rattling around in there somewhere... |
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inombrable
Joined: 20 Mar 2012 Posts: 545 Location: Salamanca, Mexico
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Posted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 3:28 pm Post subject: |
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inombrable wrote:
That ball might be from the auto/manual switch or the aperture ring so be carfull not to loose it. |
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