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Kodak Vision2 100T pushed to 200 in Fomadon LQR
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 5:41 pm    Post subject: Kodak Vision2 100T pushed to 200 in Fomadon LQR Reply with quote

Just a simple trial of this film stock exposed at 200 in my Pentax MV1 with 3.5/135 lens, 1:14 Fomadon LQR for 12mins at 23C.

No PP on these at all, I think tonality, contrast and grain are all wonderful, especially considering the poor light conditions.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dark, dark hopefully you will have better light soon.


PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I'm getting very annoyed with the lack of light lately here.


PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Give more exposure and your results will look better.


PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The exposure is fine, it really was rather dark, I didn't increase brightness in PP, which I could have as this film has enough dynamic range to support it but I decided to post without PP.


PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

F16SUNSHINE wrote:
Give more exposure and your results will look better.


+1 good advice even if light was poor worth to try overexpose frames.


PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

#16 is the only shot I would have posted.


PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Attila wrote:
F16SUNSHINE wrote:
Give more exposure and your results will look better.


+1 good advice even if light was poor worth to try overexpose frames.


I don't think there's any way to affect the exposure with a fully auto camera like the MV1 I was using, the only control is the ASA setting.

So would it be better to use a manual camera in poor light conditions?


PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes use the film speed dial. Try bracketing for a few rolls until you get to know each film and lighting condition.
A good rule of thumb to even contrast for bw film is: if you have low light bracket up (more exposure), if you have strong light bracket down(less exposure).
A manual camera is always best but, you can also change EV by twiddling the asa dial of Auto Cameras for each shot. A knob is a knob use the film speed knob like an exposure comp.

Bracketing should help you get more comfortable when lighting is less than ideal to find a few more well exposed shots.


Last edited by F16SUNSHINE on Sun Jun 10, 2012 9:24 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ian wrote:
No PP on these at all, I think tonality, contrast and grain are all wonderful, especially considering the poor light conditions

I also find the results wonderful, also the lens is good, my favs #11#16#20


PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips on bracketing. I chose to use the MV1 because it's automatic and I was trying to practice my street shooting skills so I only wanted to worry about focus and have everything else taken care of by the camera. I'll keep trying although I'm going to sell the MV1 and the two lenses I have for it. As good as they are, I have a Konica FP1 and a load of Hexanons that are just as good and I just don't have the space or money to keep everything. Sad

Cheers poilu, the lens is a good one imho, all the shots are wide open at f3.5, I would recommend this 3.5/135 lens, it's very well made, focus is extremely smooth and tactile, aperture ring is very smooth too with very well defined slicks at each stop, a real quality item and the IQ matches the quality of the build.

I just hope the weather improves so I can find some more interesting subjects to shoot, this series was all shot within 100m of my house and this is a small very quiet town where very little worth shooting is seen on the streets, I'm just practising so when I go elsewhere my street shooting skills are good enough to capture some more interesting street scenes.

This is the camera/lens I used, shame I can't keep it but can't keep everything: