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skida
Joined: 02 Mar 2012
Posts: 1826
Location: North East England
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 Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 9:17 pm Post subject: Blinking macros! |
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skida wrote:
So, I took my Zuiko 75-150 zoom and attached a reversed Helios 44M to the end. Used the auto exposure on the OM10 and had a go at my first true macros. First thing I noticed was the depth of focus, or should I call that the "shallowth of focus", which was about a millimetre at just about all apertures. Then I had a brainwave: put the reverse Helios on the end of the Zuiko 50! No real difference to the depth of focus, but now the end glass was just about touching the subject.
As this was just an experiment, I used some 2006 dated Boots Universal 400: Not the best for crystal clear pictures, but I wasn't going to waste any good film on an untried technique.
As you will notice, I have missed focus on the interesting bits and I wasn't expecting circular frames! How the heck do you avoid the vignetting?
Here are the results for you to laugh at, criticise, ridicule or just spray a mouthful of coffee at the screen:
A Daisy
CNV00024 by skida, on Flickr
Not a Daisy
CNV00036 by skida, on Flickr
A Tack on some roofing felt
CNV00030 by skida, on Flickr
A nail hole in the shed
CNV00026 by skida, on Flickr
Any serious suggestions as to how I can better these results would be most appreciated.
Last edited by skida on Thu Jun 07, 2012 9:15 am; edited 1 time in total |
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fuzzywuzzy
Joined: 18 Dec 2010
Posts: 1258
Location: Down East, Canada, eh?
Expire: 2013-11-30
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| Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 10:54 pm Post subject: |
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fuzzywuzzy wrote:
"not a daisy" is actually not a bad pic.
Do you shoot digital at all? To me, macro is the perfect occasion for digital, it's unforgiving as hell and cranking out a hundred digital shots is a great way to learn. Also, Live View.
We all understand that gear doesn't make a bad photographer into a good one, however... if you can find a cheap focusing rail it makes nailing the focus on static subjects trivial. Won't help your composition obviously, but greatly simplifies the mechanics of focusing.
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I welcome C&C, editing my pics and reposting them on the forum is fine.
NEX-F3
~~~~~~~~~
CZJ Sonnar 135/4, Biotar 58/2, Pancolar 50/2, Tessar 50/2.8, Flek 35/2.8, Flek 25/4
Super Takumar 135/2.5, 135/3.5, 100/4 bellows, 50/1.4, 28/3.5
Helios 58/2, 3M-5A 500/8, Mir 20M
Vivitar Series 1 70-210 - - - - - - - - Nikkor 200/4
Rikenon 28/2.8 - - - - - - - - Zeiss 50/1.7 Planar
PB 50/2.4, 135/2.8
Yashica 50/1.9, 28/2.8, 135/2.8
Hexanon 28/3.5, 50/1.4 |
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skida
Joined: 02 Mar 2012
Posts: 1826
Location: North East England
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| Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 11:05 pm Post subject: |
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skida wrote:
I forgot to mention: All hand-held.
I only have a digital bridge camera at the moment. I will buy a DSLR when I finally get my insurance payout from when an old bloke killed my bike (and almost me too) with his car, two years ago. At the moment I am enjoying film and I realise I was pushing my boundaries this time. I have two more techniques to try out yet: A Cokin close-up filter and a 3X teleconverter (which I have discovered doesn't affect the minimum focussing distance of the lens).
It's all fun, and I am totally amateur, so I only have to please myself.  |
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erkie
Joined: 08 Oct 2011
Posts: 308
Location: Missouri
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| Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 11:35 pm Post subject: |
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erkie wrote:
There is nothing wrong with using film for
Macro ! If you can find cheap extension tubes for your Oly it would make life a bit easier but the reversed 50 is a sound approach as well . The advice about getting a focus rail is extremely good advice ! Life becomes much easier  .
Macro work is one area I will admit that digital has an upper hand . Focus stacking and the ability to use live view and chimp shots while dialing in an off camera flash are all pretty nice to have .
But I also happen to like the results you have posted here !
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I shoot film and meter with digital 
Asahi H3v, Praktica FX3, Retina IIa, Spotmatic sp1000, Fujica V2, Yashica lynx5000, Pentax Sf1, Minolta SRT102, Minolta7000i, Pentax MX, Pentax ME, Pentax Kx
lensesM42- Isco Gottingen Westanar 50/2.8, Isco Gottingen Westron 35/2.8, Rikenon 35/2.8, Spiratone Tc 105/2.5, Spiratone Tc 200/4.5, Sankyo Kohki Komura 300/5, Sankyo Kohki Komura 135/3.5, Auto Tak 35/3.5, Super Tak 150/4, S-M-C Tak 50/1.4, S-M-C Tak 28/3.5, SMC Tak 55/2, Mamya Sekor 55/1.8
K- mount- Helios 44-K-4, Jc penny 28/2.8, Da 18-55, Da 55-300, Pentax F 35-70, SMCP M 50/1.4, SMCP M 50/1.7
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trifox
Joined: 14 May 2008
Posts: 3614
Location: UK
Expire: 2014-05-29
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| Posted: Sun Jun 03, 2012 10:18 am Post subject: |
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trifox wrote:
Hi Skida
Could you change the title of the topic, please?
I mean stars with 'g' at the end is more than obvious and says literally nothing 
If you wish to express your difficulty with taking such a pictures, you have plenty of other options.
Thank you.
Stan - Moderator
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IAZA
Joined: 16 Apr 2010
Posts: 2587
Location: Indonesia
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| Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 5:51 am Post subject: |
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IAZA wrote:
I tried this method years ago. with nikon 200/4, and EF 70-210/4 and some add on front.
vignete appear because the front reverdesd lens is being stopped down. to avoid it you must make it wideopen. the aperture set on the back lens which is the tele lens.
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skida
Joined: 02 Mar 2012
Posts: 1826
Location: North East England
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| Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 9:16 am Post subject: |
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skida wrote:
| trifox wrote: |
Could you change the title of the topic, please? |
Done. |
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skida
Joined: 02 Mar 2012
Posts: 1826
Location: North East England
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| Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 9:18 am Post subject: |
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skida wrote:
| IAZA wrote: |
I tried this method years ago. with nikon 200/4, and EF 70-210/4 and some add on front.
vignete appear because the front reverdesd lens is being stopped down. to avoid it you must make it wideopen. the aperture set on the back lens which is the tele lens. |
The Helios lens was definitely wide open, but I can't remember if the focus was set to infinity or minimum. Would that make a difference? |
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SonicScot
Joined: 01 Dec 2011
Posts: 2697
Location: Scottish Highlands
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| Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2012 1:36 pm Post subject: |
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SonicScot wrote:
| skida wrote: |
| IAZA wrote: |
I tried this method years ago. with nikon 200/4, and EF 70-210/4 and some add on front.
vignete appear because the front reverdesd lens is being stopped down. to avoid it you must make it wideopen. the aperture set on the back lens which is the tele lens. |
The Helios lens was definitely wide open, but I can't remember if the focus was set to infinity or minimum. Would that make a difference? |
I'd like to know too, so I'll subscribe to the thread.
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Gary
Currently active gear....
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Vivitar Series 1.... 200/3, 70-210/3.5 (V1 by Kiron), 135/2.3, 105/2.5 macro, 90/2.5 macro (Bokina), 90-180/4.5 Flat Field Macro, 28-90mm f/2.8-3.5
Carl Zeiss.... 180/2.8, 135/3.5, 85/1.4, 35/2.4 Flektagon, 21/2.8 Distagon
Nikon.... 55/3.5 micro, 50/1.2
Elicar 90/2.5 V-HQ Macro
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Helios.... 58/2 44-3
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Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/gazsus/ Website http://garianphotography.co.uk/ |
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IAZA
Joined: 16 Apr 2010
Posts: 2587
Location: Indonesia
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| Posted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 1:36 am Post subject: |
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IAZA wrote:
| skida wrote: |
| IAZA wrote: |
I tried this method years ago. with nikon 200/4, and EF 70-210/4 and some add on front.
vignete appear because the front reverdesd lens is being stopped down. to avoid it you must make it wideopen. the aperture set on the back lens which is the tele lens. |
The Helios lens was definitely wide open, but I can't remember if the focus was set to infinity or minimum. Would that make a difference? |
no the focus isn't effect on vignete. hmmm I think we have different case here. Maybe diferent lenses perform different vignete.
I cannot do this again as I sold nikon and Canon zoom lenses. I suggest you try different lenses combo, and different aperture set up.
I hope you get nice results
here's my sample with FD 50/1,2 SSC in front and ennalyt 135/3,5 in camera body (Canon 1000D)
this one with Nikon 200/4 + FD 50/1,2 ssc
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and My gallery
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