Old or new, plus manual lens question

[clarnibass]

Hi

I have an old Olympus 50mm f/1.4 (I think from 70s) that I use with a Canon DSLR. I have a couple of questions.

1) I really like this lens, but it has an issue of the focus ring being really resistant. I'd also probably have to return it eventually. So I'm interested in buying another MF 50mm f/1.4 lens. I will get either another like this one or a Nikkor. Is the focus ring always resistant on this model or is this something that can be fixed? Are some lenses more resistant than others? I've tried a friend's new AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 lens and it felt pretty cheaply made and the focus ring was too loose IMO.
Another thing I like about this lens is that the focus ring is turning a lot to focus. This gives more control to the exact spot. Some new lenses have the focus ring turn very little. Are the old Nikkor lenses similar (such as the AI and AIS ones)?

2) For a 50mm f/1.4 lens the older manual ones are much cheaper than decent-good new ones (at least here). I also want to add a wider lens and longer lens (e.g. 85mm and <30mm). But older manual lenses other than 50mm are actually pretty expensive and can cost as much as new ones. I really need lenses with an apareture f/1.8 or bigger. So I'm thinking of getting the Canon 28mm f/1.8 and 85mm f/1.8 instead of older manual lenses. I found through the last year I really can't compromise with a smaller apareture, but since photography is just a low priority hobby, I won't get an expensive f/1.2 lens or an expensive old f/1.4 manual one. Are there any MF lenses with an apareture that is not smaller than max f/1.8 and cost significantly less than new ones?

Thank you

[ManualFocus-G]

Hello

With reference question 2, fast old lenses were even more expensive in their day than today's AF equivalents, so many are still pricey and desirable. Especially those that will mount on a Canon EOS with an adapter.

However, there are some cheaper options, and I wouldn't get too hung up on the difference between f/1.8 and f/2.0:

* Kiron / Vivitar - 28/2
* Samyang 24/2.4 (new lens)
* Samyang 35/1.4 (new lens)
* Mir 24H - 35/2
* Super Takumar 35/2
* Nikkor non-ai 55/1.2
* Samyang 85/1.4 (new lens)
* Nikkor 85/1.8 or 85/2
* Olympus OM 85/2

Hope this helps.

[jjphoto]

The zuiko 50/1.4 is not particulalrly prone to the focusing problem you are having. Just buy another one, sell yours. They are very cheap and abundant. Any of the later models are excellent. No need to try to find one of the latest 1.1M serial number copies.

JJ

[clarnibass]

Thanks

Re the Olympus lens, I'm borrowing it so I have it for free but I can't sell it. I might have to return it and it's easier to buy a Nikkor instead. Is the focus ring on a Nikkor (like a 50mm f/1.4 AI or AIS) relatively smooth and has long "travel" (using an engineering term since I have no idea how it is called, I hope it's clear)?

By the way is there a difference between non-AI, AI and AIS that is relevant to someone who is using it with a Canon DSLR?

Thanks again

[sichko]

[sichko]

[ilguercio]

Of the 3 50 1.4 i have the Zuiko has the smoothest focus ring so it must be your copy that is faulty somehow.

[mdarnton]

In my experience, Nikon lenses suffer more than most from lubrication aging problems. I use mostly old Nikon glass, and have "solved" the problem by buying only the very cheapest ones I can find, then immediately sending them off to get them serviced. The result is a really clean lens that functions perfectly, for a bit more than the normal used price for one that doesn't.

You'd be surprised how cloudy the inside of a lens can get in 20 or 30 years--the cleaning, which includes glass as well as the lube, really does something real for the performance of old glass, and now I consider it essential.

The Nikon 50/1.4 focus throw looks to be around 210 degrees (I don't have a protractor at the moment), a nice distance, I think--not twitchy at all. Having had Oly stuff previously, I think all Nikon lenses are too big, but this particular one is probably the most compact in the Nikon line relative to the length and speed, next to some of the Series E lenses. (I often walk around with the really tiny 50/1.8 Series E in my pocket because it's so small.)

[ManualFocus-G]

[mdarnton]

By the way, don't get sucked into the Nikon 50s other than the 1.4. The slower ones test really great in the center, which is how they got their reputations, but all of that goodness disappears as you move outwards. I was surprised how bad they test out there.

[Andrew G.]

[mdarnton]

Yes, "they" say that. My own tests definitely indicate they're wrong. I have had three of them, trying to find the one that everyone brags about. Finally I just caved and got the 1.4. People also say nice things about the f/2, and I had one of those, too. The 1.4 is better. There is an honest difference in quality to account for the 3x or 4X difference in what they cost new. Even today, the $100 50/1.8 is good enough for a $100 lens, but it's certainly no match for the $350 f/1.4 lens.
Also:
http://www.photozone.de/nikon--nikkor-aps-c-lens-tests/216-nikkor-af-50mm-f14-d-review--lab-test-report?start=1
http://www.photozone.de/Reviews/218-nikkor-ai-s-50mm-f18-review--lab-test-report?start=1

[Andrew G.]

[clarnibass]

When I have to return the Olympus I would get either another Olympus 1.4 or a Nikkor 1.4. I really want the bigger apareture for the things I shoot (I'd get a 1.2 lens if photography was a higher priority).

Re the Olympus lens focus ring, I dissasembled it as much as I could to check. At some point I found stuck screws and although I deal with stuck screws often at my job (repairing woodwind instruments), the one thing I don't have is a really tiny Phillips head screwdriver... but I was able to fix most of the problem. I think it can be even smoother but the main problem is gone (even used a specialized woodwind instrument repair tool that was perfect for fixing it!).

[Andrew G.]

[clarnibass]

I'm not really sure of the terms (it's my second language) but basically I had to start from the back and remove each part before I could remove another part. At some point the screws were stuck hard and I didn't have an exact screwdriver to remove them, so couldn't remove anymore parts. I could fix the main problem though.