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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
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Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 7:15 pm Post subject: Found a very good cleaner for camera restoration |
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ForenSeil wrote:
Some minutes ago I found a cleaner that is able to remove all the dirt of some cameras parts without any scrubbing or harming the object. And I like to share this find.
I'm currently cleaning three old Fed Rangefinders and had a big problem with cleaning the metal grips on the wheels for film spooling.
First I tried a toothbruch with several cleaning aids like comercial metal polish, boiling alcohol (95%+ ethanol and isopropanol), boiling water (with different washing agents (Fairy, etc.)), different boiling petrol ethers (Lighter fuel, etc.) and some more without much success.
After this treatment the grips (still) looked like this:
But than after some thinking about what this dirt could be I tried the ultimate weapon: Household ammonia (9%)
Directly when I put the first wheel in the liquid it began to clean the surface by it self without any mechanical scrubbing
I heated the solution in a microwave for 45s (until boiling) and when it came out the result looked like this:
Back on camera:
Some chemistry:
I guess this happens because the wheels were made of a zinc containing metal alloy. Zinc is able to build an extremly thin oxid/salt layer on it's surface. This surface is selectivly dissolved by the ammonica, because the NH3 in the ammonia is able to produce a solouble complex salt from the insolouble zinc oxides/salts while the elementar zinc remains untouched. As a nice side effect ammonia (as a moderate base) is also able to saponify most fat and waxes and changes some of the dirt into soap in situ
The only drawback is that ammonia is not working as a cleaner for every metal as well as here. It may attack aluminium surfaces slowly (within some minutes) for example. And it removes every patina as fast as the dirt
But I heard theres also such a wonder weapon for cleaning aluminium: Oxalic acid in hot water
Do have any experience with that?
For chrome and silver another great cleaner and rust remover is aluminium foil with coke (yes, the softdrink, it contains phosphoric acid which will work as an good electrolyte and catalyst for this reaction). Works very well, sometimes also with steel (but not as good as with chrome or silver). I used it often to to clean silverware/cutlery and chromed rims of cars. You only have to be careful not to make any scatches with the aluminium foil.
Do you have any other comparable tips?
EDIT: Forgot to say: Be careful handling ammonia. It's corrosive and may irritate skin or damage your eyes if you get the liquid on them. You should wear gloves and goggles. The vapors of ammonia are also very irritant (but on usual doses not very harmful), so open a window. _________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language)
Last edited by ForenSeil on Thu Nov 24, 2011 8:18 pm; edited 5 times in total |
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stingOM
Joined: 27 Sep 2007 Posts: 3168 Location: Ireland
Expire: 2012-12-27
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Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 7:26 pm Post subject: |
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stingOM wrote:
I hope you checked out the potential hazards of these chemicals before you boiled (indirect heating I hope, still inhalation risks) them. You could have gotten seriously injured!
Having said that, it is nice to see it worked for you in the end! |
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
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Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 7:49 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
stingOM wrote: |
I hope you checked out the potential hazards of these chemicals before you boiled (indirect heating I hope, still inhalation risks) them. You could have gotten seriously injured!
Having said that, it is nice to see it worked for you in the end! |
Whupps sorry. As I'm a learned "chemical technical assistent" by trade and currently becoming bachelor of chemistry I'm not much afraid of such things a forgot to say something about the risk in my post.
Of course you should wear gloves and protective googles!
You have to be careful handling 9% ammonia, as it does not only stink and remove zinc oxides, it may also remove your eyesight as well if you get a splash into your face.
But my grandma is also using ammonia to clean windows since many decades (even without goggles ) and she never harmed herself or anyone else. So it's not that dangerous _________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language)
Last edited by ForenSeil on Thu Nov 24, 2011 8:14 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57865 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
I use also ammonia and hydrogen-peroxid mixture to clean lens surface and fungus infected lens elements if need, very powerful and dangerous mix with care works very well. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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ForenSeil
Joined: 15 Apr 2011 Posts: 2726 Location: Kiel, Germany.
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Posted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 8:12 pm Post subject: |
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ForenSeil wrote:
Attila wrote: |
I use also ammonia and hydrogen-peroxid mixture to clean lens surface and fungus infected lens elements if need, very powerful and dangerous mix with care works very well. |
Thanks for the tip!
I already tried hydrogen peroxide and glacial acetic acid but it wasn't strong enough.
I'm using hydrogen peroxide and sodium hydroxide to clean thermos jugs from persisent coffee stains and odor etc. But this combo is much to violent to use it on any camera parts, as it may even slowly etch or haze glas. I guess this combination could dissolve a whole human in a bath tub _________________ I'm not a collector, I'm a tester
My camera: Sony A7+Zeiss Sonnar 55/1.8
Current favourite lenses (I have many more):
A few macro-Tominons, Samyang 12/2.8, Noritsu 50.7/9.5, Rodagon 105/5.6 on bellows, Samyang 135/2, Nikon ED 180/2.8, Leitz Elmar-R 250/4, Celestron C8 2000mm F10
Most wanted: Samyang 24/1.4, Samyang 35/1.4, Nikon 200/2 ED
My Blog: http://picturechemistry.own-blog.com/
(German language) |
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